Epson Calibration Guide! (1080, 1080UB, 6100, 6500UB, 7500UB) - Page 17

It is fairly common to max out red gain, especially once the bulb ages.. It is the weakest of the colors on the Epsons.

Not sure the 1080 reacts the same as my 1080UB, but I need to start with the main user color setting at about -12 in order to be able to hit some of the 75% saturation points in the RGMCMY menu.

In the RGMCMY menu, if you have a problem where you have to max out your green saturation for example, and you still can't hit the 75% measurement point, then bump up your main color setting. This also works in the opposite direction, as in my case, which is why I have my main color at -12 to start. A lot of my saturation values end up being negative in my RGBCMY menu. If didn't have my main color at -12, I would run out of negative adjustment.

The main tint setting also works this way. It spins the entire color triangle around the D65 white point. If I remember correctly, a negative main tint setting rotates the whole triangle counter clockwise, and a positive setting rotates it clockwise. So if you are running out of the hue setting in your RGBCMY menu, then the main tint control can help this as well.

For the 1080, you may just be better off calibrating to the 100% saturation points. You can try both and see what happens.

Not having that brightness setting in the RGBCMY menu is a real bummer since reducing saturation tends to reduce brightness as well.

Dan

I assume you have an LT meter and want to use Knd's offset to the i1pro meter? Keep in mind that no two meters are equal, so the offset for your LT may be different than Knd's. I can tell you this though, when I use his offset, it gives me, by far, the best calibration I've had to date in Natural mode.

Ive attached the conversion matrix that Knd created for Natural mode, high lamp below. Save it to your desktop and extract it.

Start HCFR and start a new calibration file as you normally would.

Go to: Advanced > XYZ Coordinates Adjustment Matrix > Manually Edit XYZ Conversion Matrix > Load Then find the matrix conversion file on your desktop and load it.

You will notice that the XYZ Adjustment box is checked on the main measures tab (The color of HCFR will change to a light green)

Calibrate as you normally would. HCFR does all the conversion for you.

Dan

 

i1pro to LT Natural, High Lamp 10-26-09.zip 0.4248046875k . file

No, not yet. It will take a little while because I want to use the offset from both the natural high and the dynamic matrix, both on the Dynamic mode and see which is better.

The Natural High gave me such an improvement that I want to see how it does in dynamic mode.

I still don’t understand why your offsets would be so different. Possible causes are the large difference in lumens, and the color filter moving out of the way of the light path in dynamic mode.

Dan

Sounds like you are doing it correct d4g. Just remember one thing:

The % bar method will give you the correct saturation and Hue, but don't forget that you need to adjust the brightness for each color as well. The %bars do not tell you this, but just to the right of the bars in HCFR is the table that shows the current cd/m2 reading. You need to match that to the values (J4 thru J10) in my spreadsheet, after you've already entered the 100% white cd/m2 value into cell I1 on the Calibration Aid sheet.

Happy calibrating!

Dan

There isn't really anything magical about the 75% method, so if 100% looks better with the Epson 1080, then use the standard 100% method by all means. I developed the 75% method to help resolve the issue that these Epsons have with their Color Management System, and it's worked very well on my 1080UB, but it doesn't mean it HAS to be done that way. I was happy with the 100% method for a while, until I started to notice the undersaturation in the rest of the color gamut, and it started to bother me more and more until I investigated what was going on.

Honestly, if we didn't have the AVSHD REC.709 disc here, I wouldn't have had the test patterns to even check what was happening. (saturation windows) That's why this site is so excellent, with lots of folks helping out other folks and everyone benefits. ...helping developing the free HCFR software, and then the AVSHD disc to go with it.

I haven't contacted Epson about this issue, and not sure how to get to the right folks there anyway to bring this issue to light. Not sure if the 8500UB will have this same CMS issue. Hopefully it has been resolved. Time will tell.

...and thanks for the kudos guys.

Dan

If "Expanded" on the Oppo player is what I think it is, it should only impact the brightness and contrast setting. My assumption is that having it on will allow the player to pass blacker than black and whiter than white to the Epson. For instance, with it off, your brightness might be around zero, as well as your contrast. With Expanded set to on, your brightness might be closer to -10, and your contrast to +8 or so.

There is no problem with having the Epson set to 5000K. I think that is where mine is set at to start with too. As the bulbs age, red starts to diminish before blue and green, so it is natural to move to a warmer color temperature to get it more in balance to start with. Then proceed with your calibration as normal.


Dan

Greyscale looks excellent, and the color gamut is about as good as you can expect from dynamic.

10.5 ftL is still a plenty bright image too.

Dan