Epson Calibration Guide! (1080, 1080UB, 6100, 6500UB, 7500UB) - Page 18

Gray scale looks very good. I'm just surprised at your low Y reading with so few hours on your lamp. How big is your screen?

Gray Scale looks good for your 1st try. The sliders are difficult to use. I would suggest pulling down the 2nd from the left slider a tick or two (it will raise the 10% some (and possibly the 20% a little)). Also you could move the 4th slider from the left down one tick and see if that pulls up the 40% some. The sliders affect more than one percentage, with the 2nd from the right affecting from about 70%-90%. As you move to the left the sliders affect less of a range until the 2nd from the left is almost exclusively 10%.

You really need to attach the color saturation readings (.chc file) and also dan's spreadsheet, although we can cut and paste the saturation results into the spreadsheet to seen what's going on with the colors. Don't forget to adjust the brightness of each of the 6 colors, not just balance the RGB color percentages (or the xy location, but the color percentages is much easier for me and quicker).

How do I attach the colour saturation readings? I adjusted the brightness slider to achieve as close as possible Y readings and tried not to use the saturation sliders too much, and used the hue slider to get the two colour pecentages as equal as possible. I did this for all 6 colours.

The saturation reading I'm talking about are just windows on the screen, and then HCFR takes a reading. This is separate from the saturation slider that you are using to set (or move) the 75% saturation points. These readings should be taken after you have sent the 6, 75% points to see how well you have done.

I assume you are using the AVSHD disc. You go to the HCFR windows, and then select saturations (pink selection on lower right of menu). A 0% red should come up, which looks gray.

You then go into HCFR and select measures->saturations->all colors. It will then prompt you to go through the 6 colors with 5 readings each (0%, 25%, 50% 75% and 100%). Once you have these 30 readings, you can copy them from HCFR and paste them into the 2nd tab of Dan's spreadsheet. Once you have pasted these results (and don't forget to put in 100% Y reading at the top of this tab), the following tabs in the spreadsheet will show you how well your results are.

If you just take the 30 readings and post the .chc file, I can copy the results into the spreadsheet and post it for you if you are having trouble.

Thanks Knd. I work afternoons so I won't be able to get to it again till the weekend. I did another calibration last night and bumped up my contrast a bit which helped the gamma. For the 75% colour windows, I noticed that the HCFR app has a little coloured box in the bottom right corner with a bullseye target. This time I ignored the cylinder type percentage graphs and just used the hue, saturation and brightness sliders to get the arrow in the center of the bulls-eye (surprising to me, doing this achieved very close percentages on the cylinder graph)and am very pleased with the results. According to the spreadsheet, my Y target was not reached. To my eyes, the picture is not as bright as before, however the pic is ten times better. Colours are richer and shadow detail is better. Blacks are awesome, even with the DI off. I don't know if just setting the colours via the bulls-eye target is wrong, but I love the pic on my 6500 now.

I have a general question regarding my calibrations on hcfr. I don't see the white triangle on the CIE diagram tab. Just where the saturation dots and greyscale dots are. Am I supposed to run some sort of measure to have the white triangle show up?

Dan
Your 75% saturation method works great! My 6500UB throws a great picture on my 118 inch screen.

Gah, didn't check this thread for a while...

The screen is pretty big, 124" diagonal. I am about 16ft back.

Could the low Y be also because I am using a Spyder3 colorimeter?

The image itself looks good and plenty bright.

I have no experience with the Spyder3.

BTW my bulb's output has been falling really quickly. I'm now running Dynamic High lamp after only 550 hours on the bulb. I have a 118" Carada BW screen, and it still looks good, but at the pace this bulb is ageing I could be buying a new one at 1000 hours. Some of this is my fault, as I bought a cheap UPS that doesn't work, so I've had several shutdowns without full cooling.

Well, I am on full UPS, and have never had an untoward shutdown yet. I only have about 75 hours on the bulb. I got a spare bulb as part of their summer promotion, so I am set for when it does die, but I certainly would hope to get 1500 hours out of the bulb.

The screen I am using is a custom paint formula which has neglible gain. I have another set of CHC files I can post where I took readings directly from the PJ (colorimeter pointed at the PJ) and then immediately after from the colorimeter pointed at the screen. I'll post them this evening.

here is my calab can some one have a look and to see how i went followed smalls guide... regarding ftl 10.5 approx...


when i did the measure grey scale and primaries i used the 100 percente windows not sat...
when i did colours i used the sat windows is this right..

thanx

denis

 

6100 natural.zip 5.30078125k . file

It looks very good. I loaded your saturation readings into Dan's spreadsheet, and the 25, 50 and 75% saturation points for all 6 colors line up very well. All dE are 4 (interpreted from the graph) or below for all colors up to 75% saturations.

I looked at your offset matrix, and I'm curious as to what meter you used for reference and what meter did you offset from the reference? The reason I ask is that I have offset the LT from the i1 Pro and red had quite a large adjustment, but yours doesn't have that much red adjustment. Both Dan and myself have the LT and they behaved similarly.

I assuming that the picture results look really good on the screen, as mine looked markedly better than default Epson settings, even my wife noticed it immediately, as she claims that she has no eye for the things that I look for.

I put in my new bulb and with less than 5 hours on it, we had another very brief outage - the lights flickered, and the projector turned off. I left the unit off for over an hour, turned it back on and set high altitude mode on (fan runs faster). I also ordered the PP800 sw, so I'll let those that are interested the results.

How much of this calibration method is applicable to a 8500?

Stereomandan has asked this question in a couple of different threads, but I don't believe anyone has responded, so we really don't know.

My guess is that it all still applies, as the 8500 is an upgraded 6500, from what I've read.

Possibly the THX certification has caused Epson to address this issue and the guide doesn't apply, but my vote is that it will apply.

All anyone has to do is to take the 30 saturation reading, load the results into stereomandan's spreadsheet and see how the points line up. If the 100% points line up and all the other points (25, 50 and 75%) are undersaturated, there is a very good chance that this guide will apply.

thanx for looking ok i used your matrix for the eye1lt as i had the huge red in grey scale and menus...wwith you matrix it did not make it so red....

i redid my calab but did not save.... as i boosted the contrastn this time to
+1 as is seen in the avs disk gave me ftl of approx 14.5


cool so i am doin this right....

and i got gamma to 2.1 this time round....

loooks good some bdrips i have the colour are not so great...

but that is to be execed...

thanx Denis

Dan, Knd:

Could you take a look at the two calibration files (the 142hr calibration has an associated cie chart that is in Dan's excel since I failed to save the saturations the first time through at 142hrs in the .chc file itself). Please tell me if this amount of "creep" or loss of calibration is expected in just over 200 hours of viewing? It seems like quite a bit of calibration loss to me....I guess I would not have been surprised if I noticed this much change in ~ 400 hours of viewing, but this just seemed like it lost a lot of delta-e accuracy and RGB tracking...but I am a novice so I have no real reason to judge. I was pleased to osee that the luminance and gamma were not far off, but the delta-e and RGB drift was big. I ask the question because I am also starting to doubt the accuracy of my eye-one display LT as well and I am wondering how much of this is sensor related vs. bulb related. Regarding the LT, I think that it may not sense red accurately (sensitive enough) and therefore cause me to require too much red in calibrations. Obviously, if this is true than all of my calibrations are crap at the end of the day.

NOTE: the only thing I have done so far at the 359hr mark that is different from a "settings' perspective and reflected in this .chc file is that I did adjust my gamma up a bit (the average gamma originally at 142hr was 2.20 and that had dropped to 2.19 or a bit lower when I first rechecked so I bumped all my sliders down by 3 ticks...going from 0,-4,-6,-7,-7,-8,-9,-12 to 0,-7,-9,-10,-10,-11,-12,-15 to get to the gamma that is now shown in the 359hr file, showing an average now of 2.24. Since I did run the grayscale before this gamma change, I can verify that this did not impact my observed drift in delta-e's or RGB variance that is illustrated in these two files.

Once you comment on my question above, I have two other questions.:

First, for true up calibrations what all needs to be done? Do I need to go all the way through and do the CMS 75% saturations for the primaries and secondaries saturations again also? Or, would you say that one should just redo the grayscale and also tighten up gamma (the latter of which I acknowledge I did out of sequence since I did a quick and dirty bump up with an old grayscale) after redoing the grayscale? What is best practical practice in your opinion.

Second, what would be the next most logical upgrade from a sensor standpoint that would not break the bank? Or, is there not one?

 

Dave_Calib_NatLo.zip 395.9140625k . file

I have mine about 20-22" back, centered, about the same level as yours, and I do the tilting, rotating, vertical adjustment to maximize Y with each session. So I think I am doing it all correctly.


Roger..thanks

I would still be curious if anyone as an opinion on this question:

What would be the next most logical upgrade from a sensor standpoint that would not break the bank? Or, is there not one?

I did the upgrade to the i1Pro a couple of months ago and find that creating an offset to the LT works very well. I also only do gray scale and gamma as the bulb ages.

BTW I got my i1Pro off of ebay at a much lower price, and I checked yesterday and the same seller that I bought mine from had 3 listed.

PM me if you want more details.

What I still don't understand is whether calibration settings are 'universal' (ie applicable to all modes - theater, natural etc) or whether a clibration has to be done for each mode?

For example if I calibrate in natural mode, do I have to re-calibrate for Theater Black 1/2. If I don't recalibrate for each mode then all my modes will be 'the same' - what's the point of different modes? If I do recalibrate for each mode, then what settings are being changed in each mode that make each mode different

Perhaps someone can set me straight.

ok i redid the calab with the highest ftp i could get wich was about 17 ftl on low lamp i have an 85 inch screen 1.2 meter 4 inch back...

can you see if this is ok too....

thanx

denis

 

6100 natural low lamp.zip 5.259765625k . file

forgot to mention my gamma is 2.7 (using 2.2 default settings) is this needed to change..


if anyone has any recommendation i am open to suggestions.....


when i tried th ecustom gamma to get it closer to 2.2 i need to go above the line.... to get it close..... some more than others.....if i use the 2.1 or 2.0 since im close to the screen will this help.... for the custom gamm

thanx for imput guys knd , stereo...

ok knd i did another with no offset matrix that i used before just i1lt display as is

have a look and let me know which is better.... your offset matrix or i1 as is

thanx for all your help dan and knd

thanx Denis

 

6100 low natural no offset.zip 4.662109375k . file