Epson Calibration Guide! (1080, 1080UB, 6100, 6500UB, 7500UB) - Page 22

The general consensus is that the Eye-One LT is the more consistent meter. This info is from a couple of years ago, so things may have changed.

can anyone please share their setting values for 6500ub ? I know each one may have different setting values but I will like to start from there if possible. This thread is like ocean of knowledge and I am afraid to get lost I am using 106" screen with 1.8 gain the Graywolf II screen.

I found these settings from a calibration I did back in 2009. It was for Dynamic mode, low lamp, with 135 hours on the bulb. I have a Carada Brilliant White screen (listed at 1.4 gain, but I think it is actually lower than this). It was done with an Eye One LT meter that probably has a little too much red. I have since gotten an Eye One Pro, but didn't record any setting from calibrating with that.

I think these below will still have a better picture than default settings. Hope this helps.

Brightness -7
Contrast -6
Color Sat 21
Tint 0
Temp 6500
Skin 0
Gamma Custom 0 -8 -17 -13 -23 -14 -15 -29 0
RGB
Offset
R -17
G 2
B 3
Gain
R 1
G 5
B -23
HUE SAT BR
R 1 -38 14
G 64 36 -22
B 27 -30 -27
C 3 6 -17
M 23 -25 -34
Y 17 -50 59

Thanks a lot KND. I will try these settings and let you know how it turns out At least it will be a good starting point for many of us who are planing to do a calibration.

Appreciated !!

I am also having the exact same problem. On 100 or 90% Grayscale window, my R is also close to 70-75% and B,G are close to 100%. I just can not push R up by changing contrast. I really have to push R gain way up to get similar to G and B. But then my screen seems to show me redness on 100% white or even on contrast image window. Bars are flashing with little redness in them instead of just white or black/gray touch..!! Is this normal ? In fact I can notice similar redness in pics posted by Dan where he shows his projector advance settings.

So EPSON is messing up with bulbs now for refurb units these days ?

So I set up my pj using a ps3 , onkyo receiver using the steps suggested. Colors are awesome !! Thanks for help people.

I just have one more question, since I am using only one input on the pj which is hooked to the receiver output. The ps3 blu ray looks great. But the cable is not as good as I will like it to be. I understand the signal might be 720p most of the times, but is there anyway to improve that quality of picture ? I have one receiver input for cable dish network and one for ps3 and the output goes to pJ.

Any suggestions ?

Thanks for this excellent guide! I was quite successful with my Epson TW-3200 aka 8350, but am having troubles with green saturation.

I calibrated green to 75%, and was able to achieve exactly 133% green, 15% blue, 15% red as prescribed. I double-checked the x and y values, and they are also as per the spreadsheet, as are values at 25% saturation.

Now, when I run Measures/Saturations with Color HCFR, I get the attached result (updated, see below). DeltaEs are good or not too bad, but green is way out there, peaking at deltaE of 13 at 50% saturation.

Gamma is 2.2, color temp 6500k, RGB levels around 1 deltaE from 30% grey onward. Any tips on what's going on and how to fix green saturation, or is that just the way things are?

edit: I neglected to calibrate Y for each of the colors. After re-calibrating with them I get the attached results. Much better Green is still the main offender at 25%, 50% and 100%, but improvement is significant. I even tried calibrating green only at 50%, but then the other points were even more off.

wow...this is a great guide.

quick question: does it apply to the 8100?

thanks

is there no one calibratin their epson projectors?

this looks like a great thread, where did everyone go?

I think a new thread should be created for the new 3D units. Epson is using a new design and some of the projectors on this list are a few years old.

well, some of us still have a 'few years old' units.

Not knocking them. But you can't expect a lot of activity in a thread for units that are no longer being produced. I really enjoyed owning the 1080UB but it was time to move on. The 6500/7500 have been out of production for at least 2 years. All the projector action in the threads is related to the new units from Epson, JVC, Benq and Sony mostly because those units are 3D capable. In two years hopefully everyone is talking about the demise of the arc lamp units in lieu of LED and laser light sources. Time marches on. That being said I am sure you can get a good idea of calibration settings reading through this thread.

Guys, need a little (lots) help calibrating my Epson 8100. This is my first time ever in this area, so a bit lost.

system: windows 7 64bit
pj: epson 8100
screen: 90" gray paint
meter: i1d3 (20" from screen, below center and tilted up)
pj settings: Natural mode, Gamma 2.2, Iris off, Temp 65k, Lamp normal, Tin 0, Color 0, Sharpness 0

I took grayscalle measurements before calibrating and it's pretty bad. Then I followed dicrections to adjust Contrast and Brightness using the AVS clipping patterns.

Next up, I adjusted gray scale using the 90IRE and 30IRE window patterns, going back and forth couple of times.

Then I remeasured gray scale and RGB and Color improved a lot, but gamma took a hit.

A few questions.

1) RED looks pretty bad as it was way under target and I had to use the max setting on RED to get it near target.

2) Gamma started out very slow, and get even lower after I calibrated the gray scale. This doesn't seem right?

Here are some shots. Thanks, and I could really appreciate some feedbacks/suggestions.

These are the before shots.














xx

These are numbers after I calibrated gray scale with the 90 and 30 IRE window patterns. I still got some noticeable deviations at 70 & 80 IRE. How can I further tame those points?














x

I will be adjusting Gamma tonight, but my initial readings on Gamma is a bit discouraing. Why is it so low? And got even lower after gray scale calibration?

1) Typically you balance 30 IRE and 80 IRE. This may help with your gray scale.
2) To get gamma tamed (at least on the 6500), you need to pull overall contrast down to -10, or -11. This will fix the red issue, but overall lumens will suffer.
3) You need to use the custom gamma sliders to adjust the gamma, and it will take some time until you see how they affect the curve. You need to leave the 1st and last slider where it is. They become more specific on what they adjust as you move from right to left. For example the 2nd from the end on the right will affect gamma from about 60 IRE all the way up to 90 IRE with more an effect on 80 and 90. By the time you get down to the 2nd from the left slider, it will effect IRE 20 and maybe IRE 30 (but not a lot).

Good luck.

thanks knd,

i was following the guides in the OP. i will try to play with 80 IRE instead of 90 and see if that helps.

my contrast is around +10 right now. if i bring my contrast down to around -10, doesn't that really throw of my white clipping?

i will be using the spreadsheet tonight with custom gamma sliders.

also, doesn't it seem my 'Y' is too high? shouldn't this be around 12-22? mine is a ~36?

I went back and looked at the guide and he does use 90 IRE and 30 or 40 (my bad). I think I got the 80/30 approach from the calibration for Dummies tutorial.

On this projector I only use the AVS disc to set the black level (and of course the gray scale and color saturation), but don't use it for the white level. Going to -10 on contrast will have quite a change on the light output and gamma. You can go back to the disc after you get it set, but it will still display level 235 (I'm pretty sure on this).

I can't read the units on your "36", but you should be shooting for 13 - 16 Foot Lamberts, if possible. I've found that much below 13 and I lose dark scene detail (it may be my older eyes). I calibrate my at low lamp dynamic mode. Green is a little off but in real material it doesn't bother me, and with a new lamp I'm getting 16 FL, and after 1000 hours it is down to 12-13, so I just switch to high lamp. I have a Carada 118", 1.78 brilliant white screen.

Here's one of my gray scale and gamma curves - just to give you an idea of what's possible.

thanks. do you also own the Epson 8100? and did you use HCFR to calibrate?

my 38 cd2/m equates to about ~10FL (which seems rather dark).

I brought Contrast down to -6 and was able to tame the peaks around 80/90IRE, but overall image is a bit dimmer.

I tried to play with the Gamma sliders, but ended up bringing all the points down all the way to the botoom. This doesn't look right so I put Gamma back to the 2.2 preset.

How do you adjust custom sliders?

I checked my 6500ub last night and my contrast is at -12. At first it does seem a little dim, but once you get used to it, you can see more depth to scenes because the gamma will be much better.

The sliders are difficult to work with. Basically, all of mine are pulled down some. The 2nd from the right slider is directly related to your overall contrast. I think I have mine at -27 out of a possible -30. This tells me that on my projector I'm running the highest contrast I can and still have correct gamma at IRE 90. As you move left on the sliders you need to pull them down less and less.

If you want to try it again, start with the 2nd from the right, and pull it way down. Then you can take a 100 IRE reading, input that into the spreadsheet, put up a 90 IRE pattern and take a reading and compare this to what the spreadsheet says you should have. If it is below 2.22 (if that's what you have the spreadsheet set at) then you need to pull the slider down farther(down means higher gamma number). If it won't go down any farther, then you should try pulling the next slider to the left (3rd from the right) down about 1/2 way and see what affect that has on 90 IRE (I don't think much). If it is still too low a number then you need to lower your overall contrast. You then need to take a new 100 IRE reading as this will be lower and let the spreadsheet calculate the new reading for 90 IRE.

You need to kind of work your way from the right to the left on the sliders. The right ones affect more IRE's, so the 2nd from the left primarily affects IRE 10.

Hope this helps. You will be taking a ton of gray scale readings, but the CMS works well in the Epson, meaning that moving the sliders shouldn't effect the balance between red, green and blue that you have already set. Just takes time.

If you are using low lamp you may want to switch to high lamp as 10 FL seems a little dim for me. That's basically why I switch to dynamic mode for the additional lumens.

thanks knd, that's exactly what i did.

i started from the right, the second one from right which seems to affect the 90ire as well as the 80/70. i had to pull that all the way down.

the 3rd/4th sliders from the right didn't seem to do much.

i did enter the 100 gray reading into the spreadsheet in order to adjust the custom sliders. my cd2/m reading for 100IRE was around 36.

being a complete amateur, i thought it didn't look right if i had to pull the second slider from right all the way down.

but i am glad you did the same thing.

if i move the Contrast down to around -10, i think my RGB is going to be even flatter but the image is just too dim for my taste (i have a gray paint screen with less than 1.0 gain).

i'll play around a bit more tonight with the gamma and see what happens.

question: if i skip the gamma and go straight to the primary/secondary color adjustments, would impact would that have on the overall picture?

ok, just went through the whole steps (gray scale, gamma, color gamut). things look a lot better, but still a few things need some more tweaking.

10IRE gray scale looks pretty off

20 and 90 IRE Gamma could use a little help

any suggestions to correct the above items?

x

x

x

It's looking much better. I wouldn't worry about 10 IRE unless you can see that it is redish, greenish or blueish. My guess is that it is so dark that you can't notice that it is off. It could also be your meter as the lumens at that level are pretty low.

For 20 and 90 you could try pulling the 2nd from the left and 2nd from the right up 1 tick each. On the 2nd from the right you may need to pull it up 3-4 ticks, but do this in increments. You're pretty close though.

It all should be done to get the most out of the projector. What I have found is that once I get the colors dialed in, they rarely change as the bulb ages, and that gray scale and gamma just need tweeking every couple hundred hours. Even they don't need much work, but red seems to weaken over time, so you need to adjust that a little.

So once you get everything dialed in, then the maintenance of your calibration is quite easy. I have also discovered that even with a bulb replacement, the calibration is pretty accurate from bulb to bulb.