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Epson Calibration Guide! (1080, 1080UB, 6100, 6500UB, 7500UB) - Page 25

post #721 of 730
Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

Glad to help. Sorry I don't have any reference calibrations for a 6100.

I would be interested to know how the latest Epson's behave with the current CMS system.

Dan
Dan,
My 6500 died and I bought a 5010, when this was the current model. With 0 hrs on the lamp the calibration was very close right out of the box (I use Dynamic exclusively, as I can't notice the "green" issues in normal content and I like the extra lumens). It is quite a bit brighter than the 6500 (I'm getting over 1000 lumens after calibration @ about 16' from my 120' diag screen).

I was touching up the calibration every 100 hours until 300 hours and there were very little changes needed. I waited until 500 hours and between 300 and 500 something drastically changed. I had to significantly change brightness (black level shot way up to dark gray) and increase contrast (white level was very low). Also had to do a lot more work to get the gamma curve flat, but this was probably due to such a change of the white levels.

One thing that I have noticed is that the light output of this projector is not deteriorating at the rate of my 6500. Don't know if it is this particular bulb or the new bulb that Epson is using (I think it is a 230 watt bulb now, 6500 was a 200 watt bulb), but I have more confidence that over 1000 hours is not easily possible. I had bulbs dying in the 800 hour range on my 6500 (I think I had 3 go).

Hope this helps, as I think the 5020, and 5030 are just refinements of the 5010, so hopefully they will behave similarily.

It was quite an improvement over the 6500. I have since added a Darbee, which I really like, but of course turn off when calibrating.
post #722 of 730
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knd View Post

Dan,
My 6500 died and I bought a 5010, when this was the current model. With 0 hrs on the lamp the calibration was very close right out of the box (I use Dynamic exclusively, as I can't notice the "green" issues in normal content and I like the extra lumens). It is quite a bit brighter than the 6500 (I'm getting over 1000 lumens after calibration @ about 16' from my 120' diag screen).

I was touching up the calibration every 100 hours until 300 hours and there were very little changes needed. I waited until 500 hours and between 300 and 500 something drastically changed. I had to significantly change brightness (black level shot way up to dark gray) and increase contrast (white level was very low). Also had to do a lot more work to get the gamma curve flat, but this was probably due to such a change of the white levels.

One thing that I have noticed is that the light output of this projector is not deteriorating at the rate of my 6500. Don't know if it is this particular bulb or the new bulb that Epson is using (I think it is a 230 watt bulb now, 6500 was a 200 watt bulb), but I have more confidence that over 1000 hours is not easily possible. I had bulbs dying in the 800 hour range on my 6500 (I think I had 3 go).

Hope this helps, as I think the 5020, and 5030 are just refinements of the 5010, so hopefully they will behave similarily.

It was quite an improvement over the 6500. I have since added a Darbee, which I really like, but of course turn off when calibrating.

Excellent information KND! Thank you.

How is the color saturation tracking on the 5010? Does it track well? That would be great if Epson fixed their CMS system to work properly when calibrating.

Does it have the same issues as the some of the previous Epson models? (If you turn down the color saturation to reign in the 100% saturation points, the 75%, 50% and 25% points become way undersaturated)

Dan
post #723 of 730
Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

Excellent information KND! Thank you.

How is the color saturation tracking on the 5010? Does it track well? That would be great if Epson fixed their CMS system to work properly when calibrating.

Does it have the same issues as the some of the previous Epson models? (If you turn down the color saturation to reign in the 100% saturation points, the 75%, 50% and 25% points become way undersaturated)

Dan

Dan

From my experience the same problem exists as with earlier models, but I have to confess, I always use the 75% points so I haven't done the 100% and then checked 25%, 50%, and 75%, but by calibrating 75%, the 25% and 50% are quite close, with the 100% outside the triangle for R, G, and B. I think the secondary colors were much closer to their proper location.
post #724 of 730
Thread Starter 
Thanks Knd. That's what I expected, but there's always hope! smile.gif

At least they are much better out of the box now, and the extra brightness is always a big benefit.

Dan
post #725 of 730
Hi Dan,

I've used this guide successfully in the past on several projectors.

I am now trying to calibrate a Sharp LED TV, can I still use this method for this particular display type?

Should I use field or window pattern? And still 75% saturation? Not 100% saturation?

Thanks much!
post #726 of 730
So following this guide, I tried it on my Sharp LED.

I am able to adjust RED, BLUE, GREEN, and YELLOW.

However, I can't not get anywhere close for CYAN and MAGENTA.

On CYAN, I get the yellow bar down to 43 (no where close to 24 according to spreadsheet) before the RBG levels reading disappear on HCFR.

For Magenta, I can get the the Green bar down to 41 (match spreadsheet) but I can not use HUE to get the RED and BLUE bars to match. RED is 250 and BLUE is 230. If I adjust any further, the RGB level readings disappear.

I am not sure if this is a fault with my meter (i1D3), HCFR, or the TV.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
post #727 of 730
Thread Starter 
Re your first post: I use the window patterns at 75% saturation for the first pass calibration on all my displays.

Regarding your issue with the cyan and magenta. Try adjusting your main color and/or tint control. These tend to have a global effect on all colors and may allow you to find a happy middle ground that gets you into the range where you can then use the finer controls for the primary and secondary colors within the adjustment range.

Dan
post #728 of 730
Thanks for the reply Dan..

I current have my Color and Tint set at 0. What would you reccomend as a good start for Color/Tint settings given my issue above?
post #729 of 730
Hello All,

I'll calibrate my Epson 9100W projector and I have a CineTensioned curtain. I bought X-Rite EODIS3 i1Display Pro model I read also 1st page, but I cannot find calibrator distance from the curtain. Anybody knows this point ?

Regards
Edited by btekcan - 2/19/14 at 5:44am
post #730 of 730
In the attached the author suggests putting the sensor 3"-4" away from the screen. I usually calibrate with my sensor farther away. I place a tripod leg perpendicular against the wall holding the screen and then adust the height and angle to get maximum light readings. So I'm guessing my method is about 12 to 18 inches away.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=
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