Official 2008 Samsung HL61A750/HL67A750 LED DLP Settings and Calibration Thread - Page 12

Turn off Any Link+ and in the service menu you can disable the HDMI detect feature. As the defaults slow the speed of HDMI switching.

I tested with my final calibration, and found that SP when turned off will stay off after power toggle, and even when moving through the LED Brightness settings and Modes.

This is a tremendous improvement over the 1006.1 firmware as it would not stay off after power toggle or during a LED brightness change.

The picture brightness stays lower than the original LED brighness settings. Though each setting does change the brightness level, just dimmer so to speak.

This allows my new calibration to work well with LED brightness at High and still get stable colors when moving User brightness levels for room lighting changes.

It did not stay that way before... I guess I will need to test why it started to stick with my tv.

From memory, though I know every setting to 90% accuracy, I will report back tomorrow with a run down.

Option Byte:
Expert Adjust: On

Expert D settings:
LED Brightness set at HIGH

SP Apreture:
DB set at OFF Had to toggle it durring all calibrations until a few weeks after down grading to 1005.3

DB Apreture set to OFF
SB gain currently set to 75
Both were used once way back to test and were never changed.


Now the kicker... I use the Calibration setting and power off and power back on after making a CCA settings save. Don't know if it stuck the Apreture setting, but if so.... good luck as I done this over a hundred times. Why stick now?

Also something to ponder... I would also get during power on, the first info screen font was bold at normal brightness, depending on how would save. Once the font changed to low brightness and normal the Aperature has stuck to OFF.

I am not going to verify toggling the setting in the service menu, as I may not be able to get it back... I like my calibration the way I have it too much to do something that will loose it.

I'm assuming you mean "Anynet+" and the option in the service menu that makes the most sense is "HDMI Hot Plug" set to "Disable".

Would that be correct?

If so, that still doesn't solve the problem. My macro is as follows and always worked on my previous setups:

1. Discreet Power On of the TV
2. Discreet Power On of the DVD player
3. Discreet Power On of the Receiver into DVD mode
4. Set TV Input to HDMI 2
5. Set remote to DVD mode

If the TV is already on this works just fine. If it's off it never gets to HDMI 2. Just not enough time. Now I'm going to try once again, with your edits, to add a delay after step 1 somewhere (and before setup 4) to buy time for the TV to set up. Why it's taking it so long is a bit of a mystery.

I used to use the harmony remote discrete code button to exit out... now I don't.

the first info window is dim compared to bright (as it was originaly) and then it will change to the brightness you set with SM and UM. I never turn off CCA manually. If it does go off it is from using the Calibration set option.

Are you using a Harmony remote?

I have one and dealt with Harmony about this... the remote will send extra commands.

I found making the TV setup as a monitor with just On/ Off functions works well with a A/V reciever that has switched connections.

Also depending on your A/V equipment, the tv has to perform HDMI handshaking through the chain. My new firmware for Blueray causes a handshake delay everytime the TV or connection resets.

No Harmony here. It's Home Theater Master MX-500 which has been great over the years.

Did the rest of your reply refer specifically to the Harmony? Not sure how I'd set up the TV as a monitor. However, if handshaking specifically to the DVD is part of it, perhaps I can improve things by moving the DVD to first as it might be missing the handshake.

From what I have read from your replies, I would try this...

Since your using HDMI to the TV, let the TV auto switch the connection. This is a function that is least known about the TV. Though it will not auto-switch with the HDMI auto detection set to off in the service menu. Since I do not use the TV's tuner, you may not be able to auto switch while TV is set to the tuners input. Some testing with TV off and on at the tuners input would need to be done to verify.

My remote will try to switch the connection every time I power on, even if it is on the correct input. That is why I use monitor and learn the power on / off function.

If possible set the remote to learn the TV power on / off function.

If your TV is performing the audio volume you will need to have your remote learn the Mute and Volume buttons, and any other important functions in regards to the TV.

All other setups for devices can be as you have already done with the remote.

Let me know if you can do that or tested knowing what needs to be done.

I throught about what was done that may have caused the setting to stick.

When I down graded, I had issues with using the service menu with 1006.1 and could not get them resolved. After I down graded to 1005.3, I began performing various calibrations to see if the problems went away. I was in the middle of performing Lee's final settings to the service menu, when I remember performing a small variation to my settings procedure. Small as it seems, unplugging the tv after performing the CCA save may be the hidden trick.

This is what I did:

I made all the settings in the CCA and the Acterator with Expert Mode Calibration set to OFF.

Then I set the Calibration to ON and toggled the mode to Calibration.
I then I performed the CCA save and WB push, and turned off the TV and pulled the power plug and waited... I got back to the TV about an hour later.

I installed the power plug and entered in the service menu. I then tweaked the Desaturation and then performed the Calibration set function, CCA save, WB push and powered off.

Though this is the way I perform all my calibration procedures, the only thing new and used only once was leaving the TV unplugged for some time.

Since I also ran the Reset in Option Byte soon after the down grade, I cannot tell if it will help or not, as I don't think it would be of any benifit. I do note that my purchase date has been cleared out, and has never recovered since resetting.

I left it closed.

I am no calibrator and even had to look up what the heck this stuff means. Nicholc2 calibrated my HL67A750 and the results are below. It is my understanding that the measurements that where off down near 0 and 10 ire where more a function of the sensor used then the actual performance... but what do I know! All I know is that it looks great!

Looking at your color triangle, the 3 secondary and green appear to be off with their x & y values. You can see the points they should be hitting on the triangle and where they're actually hitting. I'm wondering if this was done intentionally to compensate for something else in the calibration or perhaps your viewing environment. Otherwise it would be pretty easy to use the x & y adjustments in the service menu to pull those in. I'm familiar with yellow being off the mark, as that is pretty common with this set from my personal experience and from others' results on this forum, but not the others.

I know he went round and round with that. Of course, only he could answer the question.

Success, success!!! The tech. was out this afternoon as a follow-up to his original diagnosis of my reported faded white spot problem in dark scenes. He first replaced the lens, with no success. He then replaced the DLP chip, and presto, it was gone. He thinks it was a defective chip or slight possibility of something getting on it. He said that he had seen the spot AFTER he replaced other DLPs before which made him think it was the defective chip (Let's improve those quality-control standards Samsung!).

So, now I'm gonna print out Lee's latest settings and plug those in for what should now be a perfect viewing experience.

I'm going to post this in mike_Pro's thread too in case people don't visit this one too.

Happy viewing!

I am using Lee's settings. How much of a change or will it affect anything if I set the sub-brightness on the WB menu to anything lower than 128 if I then go on expert setting and raise the value from 45 to something higher. Will it mess all the other settings? I was experimenting trying to lower my sse but didn't like to lower the contrast like some suggested.

I put DVE in and adjusted the sub brightness way low. I can't remember now because I've been up all night at work and need a nap lol. But anyway I lowered to like 68 from the 128 and then raised it on the expert to like 80 or something till it look right on DVE.

I am going to set it back to 128 and 45 but I was just wondering what is wrong with adjusting brightness this way.

Well, I dialed in Lee's latest settings after my repair. Unfortunately, I don't have a pre-repair comparison for those settings. However, I decided to go back one iteration (with the exception of returning the overlap to 15%). For me, it seemed that the latest settings were not as rich/deep as the prior settings (e.g., texture on sport coats). I know the graphs were better, but my eyes were liking the prior version.

As I think I may give my SM a break for awhile, I wanted to thank everyone (especially mike_pro, and Lee) for their info and for improving my viewing experience. Given all the factors, I still have no regrets in purchasing my set.

Happy viewing!

Consider the SUB Contrast and Brightness adjustments as limiters to the UM settings. That is, when you adjust the SUB menus, you are changing the sliding scale of the UM. It is safer to just use the UM for setting brightness and contrast.

Lowering the contrast cannot be done very well using test patterns on this set, since it never seems to clip white. You would want to see if there is any coloration in white as you get it towards max contrast. Too high and the viewing can become very fatiguing to the eyes when viewing in low light environments. You will also lose detail in brightly lit objects.


If you go back to those outdoor screen shots in this thread, in the snow scenes, you should be able to pick out the snow falling over the areas that have snow on the ground, if you are displaying those pics on your TV.

You're not shooting for the brightest picture, but the most accurate one.

So DVE may not be accurate on this set? Now that you mention the clipping of the white and how the sub bright and contrast act as limiters. If you put contrast at 100 on the user menu and then go on the service menu and raise the subcontrast while viewing the DVE page that is used to adjust the contrast, guess what? if you go past 128 it will start clipping the whites. So maybe there is a reason while is at 128?

It's not that DVE is inaccurate, as you can see, the TV was set up to not clip whites by setting limits within the service menu. This is one way a calibrator can use these controls(in the service menus) to make sure the owner doesn't go in the UM and mess up the calibration.

Anybody have Varus full sevice menu settings? Seems that it was deleted when he updated(now its just his updated settings)....I see some stuff about the SP actuator in the first few replies regarding his settings but those arent even in his settings posted up top? Also anybody have USER menu settings for the 67 inch after pluggin in all of Varus settings for Cable/dish and then for movies. Im on 1007.4 f/w and have plugged his updated setting but not the full settings and it looks good but dark and somewhat dull. Feel like im missing some settings. Love the thread, has been a great help and Im learning more than I thought Id ever need to learn about this TV and Calibration etc hahaha.

Hey Dhupke I've finally recovered from an absurdly long illness so I'll be posting new settings soon. You might want to wait for that.

For the few of you who have TV's which work with my settings, this is how the new settings will differ:

Contrast has been increased--now on par with my first settings, not the revised settings
Greyscale is more accurate although the other greyscale was pretty accurate so you probably won't notice the difference
Calibrated Cinema CCA settings for Normal mode since I know rmz likes to use it occasionally
Now the big change: sub color has been adjusted noticeably higher. My reasoning was that the human eye is more sensitive to x/y variation than it is to Y variation and by increasing sub color I gain x/y accuracy for both yellow and saturations less than 100% at the expense of too-high Y values. So I just used trial and error to find a sweet spot where there was minimal Y shift in return for noticeable x/y improvements. It was a little annoying because I had used CCA Y adjustments to get red Delta E to .4 but I think that the picture just looks better now even though the primaries at 100% have higher Delta E's

Glad to hear you're feeling better. My family has been reaping the benefits of your hard work for a few months now. I reverted back to your first posted settings since I liked the higher contrast (I keep mine in the 90's, I just don't think these sets look right with lower contrast) so I'm very curious about what you've come up with now.

New Settings

Change Overlap to 15%
Gamma to 0[Film]

CCA
Red x 690
Red y 309
Red Y 74.5
Green x 216
Green y 740
Green Y 203.1
Blue x 136
Blue y 31
Blue Y 14.6

Cinema CCA
Normal x 315
Normal y 317
Warm2 x 347
Warm2 y 360

Desaturation sRGB
Red x 657
Red y 329
Green x 308
Green y 614
Blue x 153
Blue y 64
Cyan x 240
Cyan y 368
Magenta x 373
Magenta y 180
Yellow x 480
Yellow y 564

WB movie

Subbrightness 128
R offset 515
G offset 515
B offset 518
Sub Contrast 135
R gain 513
G gain 510
B gain 510

Sharpness
Sub Color 51

User Menu
Contrast 95
Brightness 45
Sharpness 25
Color 47
Tint 50/50
Gamma 0
Warm 2
sRGB
medium/low LED
HDMI Black low

Note: Write down your current settings in case these don't work for you. ONLY normal/Warm 2 will give accurate white points. The others will have substantial blue push (Cool 2 is now around 16000K ). If viewing a test pattern through a blue/green/red filter it will show that color needs to be increased. You can if you'd like but that will push the primary Y's far too high for minimal improvement to yellows. This combination of sub color/color really was the best I could come up with. Although, I just tried the color test pattern in blue only mode and found that it looks perfect at 55 Color so if 55 works for you on the test pattern, leave it at the 47 I've calibrated it to. If you require 56, go to 48 and so forth. It won't be perfect but that should give a small improvement accounting for the variation in sets. If I've done a poor job typing this out and you're confused about anything, ask away! Also, if you're uncertain if you should use my settings or Lee's, try mine out. If they're incorrect, there should be an easily noticeable yellow cast to the display and you can use Lee's. If it looks pretty good then stay with it!

Glad you're feeling better Varus and thanks for the update! Cant wait to plug these in when I get home....couple of questions though....What are your other user menu settings? Such as Gamma? White Level? LED Level? etc Basically all the detailed settings etc. Or are they just factory? Also are these the only settings that are changed in the service menu as well or is there other things that you changed at the beginning? Thanks a ton!

Gamma is 0 and actually when you change Overlap to 15% change Gamma to 0 [Film] in that menu also. I forgot to put that in my first post. Your system should be set to Warm 2/sRGB. LED level is based on your preference although these settings make Low usable in moderate light conditions.