Official 2008 Samsung HL61A750/HL67A750 LED DLP Settings and Calibration Thread - Page 13

Originally Posted by Dhupke21

Varus,

Whats your white balance at? after plugging in the settings mine shows -10? is this right? also whats your flesh tone? and digital NR? sorry for all the questions, just not sure on all the user menu settings! haha. Thanks Varus

Originally Posted by Dhupke21

Awesome, thanks Varus, I figured they were at 0 was just strange how i put in your settings in the service menu and then went to my user menu settings and my white balance was at -10. Strange. Thanks for all your help. Im sure Ill be back with more questions. I think it looks amazing right now, watched SD Ironman last night upconverted through my samsung HT-Z410 and it looked amazinggggggggg...however the roomate and my gf think it looks dull/dark, especially on cable viewing(I think they are used to the LCD TV's and like that Bright POP that they have etc). haha oh well, my tv, my viewing pleasure.

Originally Posted by Varus

Well it'll never have as much POP as the Vivid mode most LCD's have because, well, grass isn't supposed to be neon green Playing around with the LED levels shouldn't hurt color accuracy too much though so if you want to use High, go for it! Just realized that your blacks won't be quite as good. Some people also like Dynamic Contrast set to Low. I'm not a fan but as you said, it's your TV so whatever works for you! Glad you enjoy the settings!

Originally Posted by Low Tech



Unless your able to lock the DP mode to Off in the Acterator service menu like mine. I get LED off blacks and brilliant brights, Just like then new Samsung OLED displays that go for over $3000.00. It took a long time of playing around with the service menu and F/W down grade to get it this way, but it works fine for me as summer day light viewing is an issue.

Originally Posted by Dhupke21

Varus,

Whats your white balance at? after plugging in the settings mine shows -10? is this right? also whats your flesh tone? and digital NR? sorry for all the questions, just not sure on all the user menu settings! haha. Thanks Varus

Originally Posted by theslug

What is the difference in setting the xy coordinates for the primaries in the CCA menu vs the desaturation menu?

Originally Posted by theslug

Thanks Lee. In your steps to calibrating, you say to adjust the CCA settings if not using the factory ones. Do you recommend leaving those alone then? I am not sure how to know if I should use the factory CCA settings or not.

Originally Posted by rtalex

after calibrating my set looks so MUCH better, but the whites still have a slight pinkish tint. I can tell when watching NBA Basketball Games and when the camera is zoomed out the Player's white jersey's have a slight pinkish tone to them. I have the HL67A750 - what setting in the service menu can I adjust to help with this? I want the whites to look white. One of the APPLE, I am MAC/PC commercials with the white back ground came on and the white background was a bright white, it looked sort of washed out. Hard to explain. Thanks for the help guys!

Originally Posted by TomHuffman

Since everyone is dong a lot of experimentation in the service menu, I thought I'd share the procedure for a full factory reset in case you screw something up.

1. Enter the service menu.
2. Go to the OptionByte submenu.
3. Activate WB Reset so that it says ”On” (it will turn Off automatically later)
4. Activate EEPROM Reset.
5. The TV will turn off. Wait a minute or two and then power on manually. When the set comes on, be sure to select the "Home" mode and not the "Store Demo" mode.

Also, you really should not be messing with the xyY RGB adjustments in the DDP3021 submenu. This is for calibrating the CCA system, not for calibrating the set's display performance.

BTW, I ordinarily don't discourage enthusiasts from doing their own calibrations. This is generally fine, if you are willing to purchase the necessary equipment, learn how to use it, and get an understanding of color science.

However, the Samsung DLPs have easily the most complicated calibration system of any display I have ever worked on. There are about a gazillion ways to screw it up. Also, the LED light engine means that inexpensive colorimeters are going to return less accurate results than they would with conventionally-lit displays. I measured an offset between my Chroma 5 colorimeter (which is the best of the affordable colorimeters) and my reference spectroradiometer of an average of x0.007, y0.004. That is a big enough variance by itself to make the difference between acceptable and unacceptable results. Add to that the normal unit-to-unit variation between commercial displays and the fact that the CCA system was not individually calibrated with a reference instrument, this means that simply entering the numbers obtained from someone else's efforts with an affordable meter will just as likely make your image worse rather than better. Given expectation bias and the lack of a reference against which to compare it, you could very well not even notice.

I just finished calibrating one of these and the client had punched in a lot of numbers he saw on this thread and the result was a considerably less accurate image than he would have had if he had just left it in the factory Movie mode, Warm2 instead of mucking around in the service menu.

Originally Posted by tomhuffman

also, you really should not be messing with the xyy rgb adjustments in the ddp3021 submenu. This is for calibrating the cca system, not for calibrating the set's display performance.

However, the samsung dlps have easily the most complicated calibration system of any display i have ever worked on. There are about a gazillion ways to screw it up. Also, the led light engine means that inexpensive colorimeters are going to return less accurate results than they would with conventionally-lit displays. I measured an offset between my chroma 5 colorimeter (which is the best of the affordable colorimeters) and my reference spectroradiometer of an average of x0.007, y0.004. That is a big enough variance by itself to make the difference between acceptable and unacceptable results. Add to that the normal unit-to-unit variation between commercial displays and the fact that the cca system was not individually calibrated with a reference instrument, this means that simply entering the numbers obtained from someone else's efforts with an affordable meter will just as likely make your image worse rather than better. Given expectation bias and the lack of a reference against which to compare it, you could very well not even notice.

i just finished calibrating one of these and the client had punched in a lot of numbers he saw on this thread and the result was a considerably less accurate image than he would have had if he had just left it in the factory movie mode, warm2 instead of mucking around in the service menu.

Originally Posted by Varus

Hey Tom, as one of the aforementioned enthusiasts, I thought I'd take this chance to ask you a couple of questions: First, when the primaries are calibrated accurately (according to my measurements which will obviously be off from someone using pro-grade equipment), the yellows are substantially off and cannot be further corrected, also the 75% saturation measurement in particular for each color is inaccurate. Did you notice this too, or is this just a quirk of either my tv or meter?

Originally Posted by Varus

Second, after doing some research, I saw that the human eye was much more sensitive to x,y variation than it was to Y variation so in my latest settings, I tried to find a happy medium introducing some Y error into the primaries in exchange for more accurate x,y for yellow and the <100% saturations. Is my reasoning solid here or should I have just kept the accurate primaries and learned to live with the other errors I was seeing? Thanks in advance! I'm still trying to learn this stuff and this has been a fun TV to teach myself on!

Originally Posted by TomHuffman

I noticed that the secondaries (not just yellow) were off considerably more than the primaries after a factory reset and CCA system calibration. I had no problem correcting the errors with the Samsung service-level tools. White, however, was very accurate and required little adjustment. I only calibrated to 75% stim, 100% saturation targets.

It is more complicated than this. We are more sensitive to some colors rather than others. Also, our sensitivity to changes in luminance are greater at lower levels than at higher ones. Having correct x,y points with high luminance errors can lead to very large dEs, so I wouldn't make any generalizations about tradeoffs. Just get the dE as low as possible.

Originally Posted by TomHuffman

Since everyone is dong a lot of experimentation in the service menu, I thought I'd share the procedure for a full factory reset in case you screw something up.

1. Enter the service menu.
2. Go to the OptionByte submenu.
3. Activate WB Reset so that it says On (it will turn Off automatically later)
4. Activate EEPROM Reset.
5. The TV will turn off. Wait a minute or two and then power on manually. When the set comes on, be sure to select the "Home" mode and not the "Store Demo" mode.

Also, you really should not be messing with the xyY RGB adjustments in the DDP3021 submenu. This is for calibrating the CCA system, not for calibrating the set's display performance.

BTW, I ordinarily don't discourage enthusiasts from doing their own calibrations. This is generally fine, if you are willing to purchase the necessary equipment, learn how to use it, and get an understanding of color science.

However, the Samsung DLPs have easily the most complicated calibration system of any display I have ever worked on. There are about a gazillion ways to screw it up. Also, the LED light engine means that inexpensive colorimeters are going to return less accurate results than they would with conventionally-lit displays. I measured an offset between my Chroma 5 colorimeter (which is the best of the affordable colorimeters) and my reference spectroradiometer of an average of x0.007, y0.004. That is a big enough variance by itself to make the difference between acceptable and unacceptable results. Add to that the normal unit-to-unit variation between commercial displays and the fact that the CCA system was not individually calibrated with a reference instrument, this means that simply entering the numbers obtained from someone else's efforts with an affordable meter will just as likely make your image worse rather than better. Given expectation bias and the lack of a reference against which to compare it, you could very well not even notice.

I just finished calibrating one of these and the client had punched in a lot of numbers he saw on this thread and the result was a considerably less accurate image than he would have had if he had just left it in the factory Movie mode, Warm2 instead of mucking around in the service menu.

Originally Posted by Lee Bailey

Can you post your before and after charts?

Originally Posted by TomHuffman

Well, "before" is a little problematic, because there were several befores: Before in Movie, Before in Standard, and Before after factory reset/CCA internal calibration, but prior to CCA adjustments. After is easier.

I have a review on my web site that includes charts.

http://www.displaycalibrationonline....samsungDLP.asp

Originally Posted by jrcorwin

I'm back from an unfortunate exile. However, I am without my TV for the next two months. We are in the process of moving and our new home will not be ready until August. It has been sitting in a climate controlled storage unit since Saturday.

Originally Posted by FilmMixer

Very excited to have Dave Abrams cal my 67 today.. let you all know how it goes..

And thanks for the link Tom... when I first got my set, I posted about how disappointed I was in the black level.... others seemed to have the opposite impression.. reading you review made me feel better about my critical viewing skills.. (they've gotten pickier now that I have been mixing with a new Christy 2k D-Cinema projector... )

Originally Posted by bitemymac

Have you changed the WB settings on all the inputs? The WB is one of the settings that does not carry over and has to be re-enter on each inputs in the SM.