Official 2008 Samsung HL61A750/HL67A750 LED DLP Settings and Calibration Thread - Page 3

go to www.spearsandmunsil.com to find out more. I'm still checking it out, but it appears to be more "up to date" for bluray than DVE or AVIA, but it doesn't contain audio testones. Found out about it on bluray.com and i thought that i'd share.

Has anybody figured out what the production month and firmware version changes are? Might be interesting to have everybody post what their month of production is along with their original firmware versions.

Lol

12/08

1007.4 firmware

Month of production: 1.2009
Firmware: Purchased in March 2009. When registering online with Samsung, the site said that mine was 1005.xx, but when I press the "Info" button on the "SW upgrade" option, it says 1007.4. Samsung support said that the difference may just be a part number that designates the manufacturer, because they have no information that indicates that 1007.4 is a fix for anything. Not sure how confident I am about the rep who said it (sometimes I feel like some support reps, not just for electronics, just guess rather than say that they do not know something).

Settings and Testing Results!

Hey everyone, here are my new settings. Don't use these unless you have the 1007.4 firmware.
Gamma at 0[Film]

CCA
redx 689
redy 309
redY 61.8
greenx 207
greeny 734
greenY 186.5
bluex 137
bluey 32
blueY 15.7

CinemaCCA
dwhitex 333
dwhitey 351

Desaturation
sRGB
redx 647
redy 330
greenx 296
greeny 613
bluex 151
bluey 63
cyanx 230
cyany 359
magentax 353
magentay 172
yellowx 468
yellowy 581
WB
Movie
subbright 128
roff 517
goff 515
boff 521
subcontrast 135
rgain 504
ggain 510
bgain 521

Sharpness
sub color 47

In the user menu everything is the same as before except:
Contrast=85, Brightness=45, Color=47

Now for the testing--I went over to my friend's house yesterday to help set up his new 67 with 1007.4 firmware. I first plugged in the CNET settings. The Delta E's are
GREYSCALE Gamma=2.80
0=40.5, 10=1.9, 20=7.2, 30=16.8, 40=15.6, 50=16.5, 60=16.0, 70=15.5, 80=16.2, 90=15.2, 100=15.4
COLOR
Red=28.1, Green=14.7, Blue=19.8, Yellow=2.3, Cyan=18.5, Magenta=30.9

After that, I entered in my service menu/user menu settings and measured:
GREYSCALE Gamma=2.23
0=34.2, 10=6.1, 20=1.2, 30=1.9, 40=3.0, 50=3.2, 60=2.9, 70=3.1, 80=2.3, 90=3.2, 100=2.9
COLOR
Red=2.3, Green=5.5, Blue=8.7, Yellow=9.4, Cyan=6.0, Magenta=6.5

Amusingly his red is actually more accurate than mine was but my efforts to get rid of blue push on my set dropped his Blue Y down to 6.7. Still close though and if his set is indicative of what everyone else will get, it looks pretty good. Hope this helps everyone and if anyone has any questions (or if I forgot something) feel free to ask

It's good to have another data point! Since Lee has FW 1006, I wish we could get another data point for FW 1006 on a 67'' with Lee's settings. I'm in that boat, but only have my eyes to judge. My vote is FW version makes the difference.

That's easy enough to do, just pitch in and send me a 67" unit!

Only if we can order it from the Crutchfield site.

After I typed the above comment, but before posting it, I thought I'd make sure that it was in fact discontinued there--what with my limited personal finances and all.

Hi,

If you decide to do a DIY calibration from my video (delayed), it would be fest to at least get your LED brightness, Screen brighness and Contrast levels set properly. DVE or THX optimizer will work for that.

Once you have performed the brightness and contrast adjustment, write them down. You will need to setup your Expert Mode calibration to use those settings. Once you adjust you should see the Service Menu screen change to those settings.

Durring the CCA adjustment, the proper settings will be made for the settings prefer, not the defualt.

Also when performing the sRGB Desaturation adjustments, it also is required.

NOTE: At anytime you wish to return to the service menu to make PQ adjustments you must go into the Expert Configurations and toggle the LED brightness as it will push all the expert configurations for PQ. If making adjustments to CCA you must run Calibration once to push the gamma and other settings for adjustment to CCA and it will turn off CCA for you to start entering new settings.

I will have to update my procedure one more time... as it seems that all CCA adjustments must be done in proper order as skipping the calibration set in the routine will not allow new settings to push properly to CCA.

1 calibration set (it turns off CCA and pushes external settings for calibration)
2 adjust settings
3 save CCA
4 color sensor status
5 if more changes are needed, start with step 1 and continue on.

I have found the CCA settings to stick better while making multiple changes... Also after doing so many attempts with various LED brightness settings. I have found you can, if very careful, have your settings work well for LED brightness set to Low and if needed Medium

Hey guys. I currently have the 67" and im using varus's older settings, nto the recently posted ones. I've used Lee's settings before Varus's and I think I liked Lee's better. I'm pretty sure i have the 1006 firmware. I find Varus's settings on my set to be noticably brighter then Lee's. It probably has to do with the lighting in our rooms though. I would like to switch back to Lee's settings, but i need a little bit of help. I tweaked the Actuator Gain setting to 0. Actu gain on/off is currently on right now, but i lost my paper where i keep all my default settings. Could someone please help me with a Actu gain value? Thanks.

the default gain is 0 and it is open and enabled.

Lee, was wondering if you had replied to my PM on grey scale ramps..

I stated that the top ramp is a nice grey, and the bottom ramp is a touch in the hot side. I assume that is from using movie2 mode.

I think I cannot calibrate any better as CCA sensor numbers are very stable at 155 with LED Brightness at Medium.

Note: As I tested, I found that LED any brightness properly calibrated using my technique can be very stable, unlike the factory OEM setup. Though moving from High to Low is not stable at all. I was able to calibrate with an in between setup for moving from Low to Medium or visa versa. Though Red gets bumped a tad the numbers stay fairly close. Unlike the factory settings.

At low I have 251, 255,254 at Med they are 255,256,255 though at High blue needs some adjusting. But if your gaming you would not know any better as most games are saturated or high contrast.

same here. i preferred lee's settings to varus' old settings..i was noticing silk screen effect way more.. but Varus new settings are better! picture looks way nicer... although i do have 1007 firmware and you dont.. maybe try the new settings anyways.

Yes, I agree. Varus's new settings are much improved from his older settings. This is on the 67 with 1007 firmware. I have still yet to try Lee's to make my own comparison.

BTW, the actu gain value may vary from the factory. Mine came set at 55, but 61" may have different value even using same firmware version.

Do the ramps look that way just up close, or even back at your seating position? I'm asking because it may have to do more with your screen than anything else.

Have any of you set the Actuator gain using the service manual's instructions? Seems odd to have the Acutator gain at 0 to me. Maybe this is a 67" thing.

Varus,
Can you put up the graphs of your recent settings?

It's not a 67 thing, it should be around 45 for the 67 although obviously individual sets will vary. Mine is at 47, my friend's was at 44. Also, I'll get those graphs posted for you in a little bit--going to be busy today.

Thanks.

I don't think you need a bigger size screen to make the comparison. It seems that all the factory default settings are being shared between 61" and 67" or between the firmware versions except for the default CCA settings. Would it be possible that firmware version would be paired with it's own CCA settings only? Hence, the calibration points may be dependent of the firmware? (even this is questionable)

Just my own curiosity, but I was wondering if either Lee or Varus would produce a similar graph if they were to exchange settings?

Well I've tried Lee's settings and they were noticeably off for me. Based on how his settings were off, if he tried mine he'd likely find that the colors were balanced around a color temp which was far too warm (since his were too cool). Is that what you were asking or did I misunderstand your question.

Incidentally I suddenly came to the obvious realization that my friend's results give me another data point which should be taken into account so I'll be posting some new settings which hit the average white point/colors between our two systems. No idea if it'll be more accurate for you all but it'll be another option!

Your correct... I looked up SB gain in the Acturator menu. Sorry



It can be 44, though I had to adjust it, as mine is now set at 47.

Ok, since I was waiting... I have been trying to finish the settings and video on home calibration. Unfortunately there is an issue with my TV. I don't know if the harmony remote did it or something internal. As I tried to save a setting and the tv went in to a constant loop of setting the CCA save. I tried to get out and some how the tv jumped into the Option byte menu and performed a factory rest... I have my settings but the PQ is not the same anymore.

Untill I figure it out, I sugest not using a universal remote when saving changes.

Something like that.... but in more objective results on the CIE diagram. If Lee were to use your settings, would he produce the similar CIE diagram on his set as you have achieved on your 67" with 1007.x firmware and vice versa. This way, it can be confirmed whether two units(61/67)/version of firmware are significantly different.
I understand even the same model using a same firmware may produce different results, but at least it would be interesting to confirm that.

In any rate, I am grateful for all your tweaking work, both you and Lee. Your enthusiasm for tweaking on this LED DLP set made an impact on my purchasing decision. From my experience, product support from enthusiasts always go further than the manufacturer and I am glad we do have many addicts in here in this community. I will look forward to your next tweaks!

Thanks again!

I can't imagine how Lee's TV would give him a similar CIE diagram to mine if he used my settings. His settings and mine are just too different. Now if I changed to a lower firmware version I could try his and if he changed to 1007 he could try mine but I'm not going to play around with the firmware because that really CAN mess up your tv for good.

Glad that Lee and I could aid in your decision to pick up this TV. It's just a liiittle better than the LCD's you could get at a similar price

Still wish there were some smoking deals on the 67".
If anybody wants to pm me.......

I really think this information should be included as a disclaimer in post containing the service menu tweaks.

I doubt the moderators would have a problem with people discussing copying service menu settings as long as we upfront about the potential dangers.

Here is my proposed disclaimer


###################################################
D I S C L A I M E R
###################################################

THE INFORMATION IN THIS THREAD IS NOT INTENDED FOR EVERYONE

WARNING: Entering your HDTV's service menu and making modifications without proper equipment, training and experience (this includes entering the service menu to copy someone elses settings) is strongly discouraged by most AVSForum moderators as well as most professional calibrators

By the entering the service menu and making adjustments you may inadvertently cause permanent damage to your HDTV that may not be covered under the manufacturer's warranty

While some data gathered suggest that when copied, Samsung 61A750 and 67A750 service menu settings can result in improvements over factory default settings; results will vary from set to set and are likely to tied to firmware version and screen size.

Those participating in this thread are aware of the risk involved and are taking part in an on-going experiment to learn more about these televisions and to discover within what parameters service menu settings can transfer from set to set. No one here is recommending you enter the service menu and attempt this on your HDTV, however if you want to join in the fun and you accept personal responsibility for all risk, feel free to contribute.

###################################################

that looks good to me.

I have been working with Lee as to my findings for some time... Yes you can get the same PQ with various settings.

I have found that the way CCA functions you can actually tune up or down the numbers scale. I have found that out by checking the data in the color sensor while adjusting RGB. It all depends on where you like to start your calibration.

from the HL61A750 Service manual page 47:

6. SP Actuator
No....Item.................Range.................Default.... ........Remark
1 Actu Gain[Patt1]...0~175.................45..........Actuator Gain adjustment
2 Actu Gain[Patt2]...0~175.................45..........Actuator Gain adjustment
3 Actu On/Off..........0~1....................ON.........Actuator On/Off selection
4 DB On/Off.............0~1....................OFF
5 DB Border.............ON/OFF................OFF
6 DB BP Weight.........-........................0
7 DB Gain.............0~3....................0
8 DB Aperture...........ON/OFF...............ON
9 SB Gain.................0~255.................0

What does the DB Gain setting do?
On my TV it was set at "1", not the default "0".
I have 1005.3 firmware.

Also from the WB(White Balance) menu,
has anyone changed the Sub Brightness and Sub Contrast values?
I seem to like the Sub Contrast around 118, and Sub Brightness 124.