Quote:
Originally Posted by
Nitrox36 
anyone ???
After spending a couple weeks setting up a 3d HTPC, I'll tell you what I believe the minimum to be:
1) First and foremost: Your PC or Bluray player must be connected to input #3. Change the input name of HDMI/DVI3 to "PC" (from bluray or game or whatever). That allows for proper 3d operation and immediately resolves terrible ghosting issues. I struggled with that until I found the answer here - I had thought the ghosting was the result of cheap glasses. Unfortunately when using "PC" mode many video options are locked out (such as sharpness, NR). That's inherent to the PC mode and can't be changed.
2) If you're playing discs from an external Bluray player, you'll need DLP compatible glasses such as Optoma or Xpand. EDIT: And a converter like this:
http://www.tru3d.com/products/view_product.php?id=31003
3) If you're going to be using a PC, you'll need software that can play back 3d. Stereoscopic Player can play various media encoded in SBS (side by side left/right images), over/under, etc. Example videos are at
http://www.3dtv.at/movies/Index_en.aspx
4) If you're going to play 3D discs from a Bluray drive on the computer, you'd need something like Cyberlink PowerDVD 10 that supports 3D playback operation.
5) If you're going to use any other external input (like a 3d satellite/cable channel), you'll likely need a converter. There are many other threads discussing 3d converters and the Samsung A750s; you can search them if you need further info. I also can't comment on PC gaming.
That's the minimum I'm aware of; if someone notes something missing please mention it.
It goes without saying, but just in case: When starting 3d playback, make sure to hit "Tools -> 3d Effect" on the TV remote or nothing will happen.