Samsung HL67A750 and 3D? - Page 6

Should be all set. I do that with an older A/V reciever too. If you haven't bought a receiver yet, the Panasonic 100 will output checkerboard too, and save you cash. It's about $200. It just doesn't have wifi capability or an extra hdmi output, which helps with those people with HDMI 1.4 spec 3DTV's. Ours are fine. Although, I'm kind of curious to see if someone running the Panasonic 300 experiences any luck with better audio quality running one HDMI out to their A/V receiver for audio only (as you can choose that option on the Panasonic player's options), and running the other output (the "main" output) right to their 3DTV. Just curious. But yeah, it should work.

I have a 67A750. I was able to get blu-ray 3D to work on the Sam DLP using Nvidia's 3D Vision kit. And it looks fantastic..!

The hardware that you need is a PC with a blu-ray drive, an Nvidia 400 series graphics card along with the Nvidia 3D Vision kit.

The software that you need is CyberLink PowerDVD 10

Boot to your PC monitor. In the Nvidia control panel change the display to the Sam DLP (note: you must use HDMI port #3 and have it labeled "PC" using the Sam DLP Source menu) Use the "Tools" button on the Sam DLP remote to select "3d mode 1". Install and configure the 3D Vision kit (just follow the prompts and select "Generic DLP" as the display device). At this point you should be able to use and see all PC program 3d effects on the Sam DLP. (MS Flight Simulator in 3D on a 67" screen is awesome..!)

To watch a blu-ray 3d movie you must install CyberLink "Power DVD 10". On the "Power DVD 10" tool bar, select and enable 3d playback. In the area that says "Choose 3D display:" select "Generic DLP". Now launch your blu-ray 3D movie. As the movie starts it will show a double display (even while wearing the 3d vision glasses).
At this point bring up the PWR DVD "3D Display Configuration" and change the display device to "120hz Time-sequential 3D LCD". At this point, the display cleans up and you have a beautiful, sharp image with full 3d effects..!

So far, I've watched "Imax Space Station 3D" and "Imax Wild Ocean 3D" and both movies looked fantastic in full 3D..!

The only down side is that when the movie is over or you turn the movie off, the screen goes dark and you get a message that the "mode is not supported". The only way to get the PC display back on the Sam DLP is to reboot the PC.

btw: The movie sound is carried through the Nvidia HDMI or DVI to HDMI cable and you can play it on the Sammy DLP or you can use a optical audio cable directly from the PC to your surround sound system.

If you don't already own a PC with a series 400 graphics card, this can be a very expensive way to see blu-ray 3d. Other wise, it is another option that I wanted to share. I know that this process sounds like a pain in the butt. Hower, the picture quality and 3d effects are flawless..! (I can't wait until Avatar 3D comes out on blu-ray..!)

Hi,
My post is not related to Samsung DLP's but think it is still most suitable area for my question.

I have a Samsung 720p plasma PN50A450 TV which is a 3D compatible (checkerboard) plasma unit released in 2008. My understanding is that my plasma TV can only except 3D signals from a 720p source. It cannot display 3D from 1080p source. My question is, can this Panasonic BDT350 Blu-Ray player output the 3D (checkerboard) signals in 720 format?

Has anyone tested the Panasonic BDT350 with any 720p checkerboard 3D display?

Thanks.

Hi All,

I am thankful I have found this thread as I am another Samsung 67 inch 1080p 3D DLP HL67A750 owner as well. I have been trying to research the 3D TV Adapter KIT for Samsung 3D DLP HDTV for the past 3 weeks now.
My intent is to have the ability to do 3D with my PS3 for games and movies, play Call of Duty: Black Ops on my 360 and be able to use my HTPC that has a Nvidia GTX card with 3D Vision.

I'm in the process of pulling the trigger in buying the TRU3D Kit but my biggest question right now is why is nobody mentioning the Xpand X103 glasses????

I figured since the X102's have a proprietary battery (can we say expensive),
fugly red color (no offense to peeps who have them) and a pricey investment why is nobody talking about X103 glasses.

Am I missing something? Do they not work with this setup? I figured since DLP's are on there way out anyways, wouldn't it be wise to invest in UNIVERSAL set of glasses that way if you want to buy one of those newer LED LCD's or plasmas you could use the glasses on them too?

TRU3D does list the following Pkg:
3D TV Adapter KIT for Samsung 3D DLP HDTV with X103 x2 + IR Emitter

as one of it's required 3D adapters for cable and PS3 for the Samsung 67 inch 1080p 3D DLP HL67A750
SKU: 000022

thanks for any replys to let me know if this will work as I'm dying to finally make use of this so called 3D Ready goodness that Samsung has dropped the ball on.

Thanks.

I have tested Xpand 102's and ViewSonic PGD-150 DLP link glasses. I like the 150's better and they are cheaper. The 150's are too big for kids however. Xpands fit nicer. I also bought an emitter and 1 set of glasses from i-o systems. They look funky but also fit a small childs head. Good things is these work in conjunction with the 150's I have. SO I have a DLP link and IR set of glasses working together One issue I had is that a newer HDMI did not work with my Panny players.

EDIT: What I meant by 'newer' HDMI - I bought an HDMI cable for the NEX that said 3D 1.4. It did not work. The signal was garbled or something and I had to rely on RCA cables to view the output from the BDT-350. I had an 'older' HDMI cable like 2+ years old. I plugged it in from the BDT to HDMI-3 and it worked. I dont know what that was about. Possibly could of been defective who knows. I had two of these cables from a kit I bought from Costco. So I used i right away on my sammy 61" from my BDT-100. No issues. So I am not sure what spec they are as I do not have the box nor do the have any labels.

Right now one of my PGD-150 has cracked/broken arms. These glasses work great. Such a shame.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post19737547


My Stuff;
Samsung HL67A750 and Panasonic BDT-350 / HL61A750 and Panasonic BDT-100
2 Viewsonic PGD-150 / IO system glasses (1) and IR emitter
IR and DLP Link together

I have the Samsung HL-T5089S and bought the 3D kit from tru3D and originally ordered four pairs of Viewsonic PG-150 DLP-link glasses. I returned the Viewsonics due to the fact that they kept losing sync, and now have six pair of X103 universal IR glasses. They work perfectly and use regular button cell batteries, unlike the X102's.

I have a HL67A750 being driven by a HTPC and just bought 4 sets of DLP link glasses from
http://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/uldlpliwi3dg.html
They look better than most are MUCH cheaper and so far I am very impressed with them. I may have some of the first ones sold. They take a standard 2032 battery sync very fast, go to standby and clear in a couple of seconds if you need to look away. They come with a soft black drawstring bag for storage. They fit different size faces and are comfortable, tho i may get some foam pads for mine as I have a very narrow bridge on my nose. Also are very light and the lenses are quite large, and quite clear when off. It is also nice that no emitter is necessary. As with all DLP sets there is a reddish cast to blacks when in 3d mode the tint on the glasses does a good job of filtering out most of it. The 3d on that set is pretty awesome on Avatar where they show the sleep chambers opening the depth is awesome. So if you have a checkerboard output player, or as I have a HTPC with Total Media Theater 5 this is definitely the cheapest way to get your 3D going. All the observations are from one nite of viewing but so far so good.

Ultimate3DHeaven.com has a number of 3D Glasses and I'm not sure which are the proper ones to order.

http://ultimate3dheaven.com/dlp3dwiglfis.html
http://ultimate3dheaven.com/uldlpliwi3dg.html
http://ultimate3dheaven.com/family.html

Should I get the UltraClear HD, UltraClear DLP, or X-Force 3D? Their web site suggests the X-Force for my tv, but I'm pretty sure other people have been using the UltraClear DLPs. Are the UltraClear HD a new version of the DLPs? I currently don't have any 3D Glasses and it sounds like the HDs play better with existing ones, but I am totally confused by the marketing claims.

Which ones do I need? I guess I don't ever plan to use these at the same time as IR based glasses, but the HDs sound like they are more compatible with other systems should I want to upgrade my TV at some point. If I get the Ultra-Clear HDs, do I need to buy a emitter? Is that the main advantage of going with the Ultra-Clear DLPs for my TV?

I should also note that I have a Panasonic DMP-BDT100 blu-ray player for the checkerboard 3d output.

Thanks all.

Hi Wildfrog,
Thanks for your note on the 3d glasses. I have the same TV and was contemplating getting into 3d. Do you mind giving the details on your HTPC. If I had a 3d capable HTPC(eg Nvidia 460 card, bluray player) and the HL67A750 TV, is it just these glasses I need or do I need something else like a synchronizer/ir emitter?
Thanks in advance.

hey there, first post and not sure I put it in the right place. need help with my setup because I ran into a few snafus. not sure what I am doing wrong here. here is a copy of the email I sent to tru3d earlier for tech support:

Hi, I recently ordered a 3da-1 adapter with the geffen detective for my samsung hl67a750. the equipment I am currently using with this adapter are: ps3 updated to version 3.56, xbox 360, hl67a750 tv, yamaha rx-a800 3d ready receiver with two hdmi outputs, 1.3 hdmi cables, and optoma bdz-101 glasses, hdmi 3 is named pc.
before I hooked up the adapter I was able to play avatar (the game) on xbox 360 in 3d since it had native checkerboard options in menus. I would always have both hdmi ports (1 and 3) available at all times through the receiver. I could play the game in 3d then switch the tv back to hdmi 1 and play normal titles.
since then I have hooked up the adapter and tried it with call of duty black ops (since it only support side by side format) and the adapter converted it just fine (on the xbox 360). Then I tried to start a 3d movie on my ps3 and it sent a message saying its basically not supported. my ps3 video output settings are set to hdmi and automatic but they never gave me the option for screen size nor did it list the 3d resolutions. I tried removing the receiver from the loop and running the ps3 straight through the adapter into the tv and then the hdmi 3 port on the tv would not register a signal. since then no matter how I hook up to the tv the hdmi 3 does not find the signal from my input devices.
I was also a little confused because in the instructions for initial setup it says to turn on the tv and select hdmi 3 with adaptor turned on, but hdmi 3 was not selectable. so I do not think that part worked out if it is trying to program the adaptor. I also noticed on the geffen detective there is a button named program. (I did not touch it because I don't know what that would do so I thought I would ask first) was there a step not included in the instructions that require that button to make this work?
I hope my hdmi 3 port is not fried now because I used to be able to use it and now I can't even select it on my tv. I would appreciate and be greatly indebted to you if you could help me get this working. would prefer a call if possible so I could be walked through this process because I think I am missing something. thank you for you time.
please email me if you cant get my number from the order.

hope this helps you help me. I would really appreciate it. I would like to see all this money I just spent amount to something. thank you for your help.

p.s. I forgot to add that my receiver's firmware has been updated as well.

p.s.s. I actually posted this somewhere else but my wife thought this would be a better spot so I gave it a go.

Hi guys - I have a Samsung HL67A750 as well, and I'm seriously considering trying out a 3D kit to see what all the fuss is about I've heard several times in this forum as well as a couple of others that the Mitsubishi kit/cables/emitter is compatible with the A750's - is that correct? My local Best Buy actually has the following Mitsu kit available in store and I was considering picking it up to at least see what the performance is like, and if I don't care for it I can always return it... does anyone know if this is a compatible kit?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Mitsubis...=1111858&st=3d starter&cp=1&lp=2

Only the 3DC-100S kit is compatible. As of now you can only buy it directly from Mitsubishi for $450.

any of u use the samsung 750 series owners paired with the panasonic PT 100 3D player?
cau u post the settings u're using to successfuly display 3D ?
i can't get mine to display

any of u use the samsung 750 series paired with the panasonic PT 100 3D player?
cau u post the settings u're using on both the tv and blu ray player to successfuly display 3D?
i can't get mine to display 3D


Thanks

Name your HDMI3 as PC.
Plug 3d player in HDMI3
insert 3d movie
when disc menu appears, chose 3d
press tools button from TV remote, then press left arrow to mode2.
press tools again to turn the menu off

put on your glasses and enjoy.

And put the Panasonic into the checkerboard mode.

Aries74, you have to program the Geffen with a Mits DLP EDID in order for it to work with the 3DA-1 adapter. Did you order it preprogrammed from tru3d.com?

What is better DLP Link or IR Emitter method?

DLP Link suffers from:
rainbows

IR emitter suffers from (because of the DLP Link Signal):
red tint
washed out image

I read that some devices can turn off DLP Link, thus solving the problems when using IR emitter method. Is this possible with the HL67A750? or is DLP Link signal always on?

I have had a Samsung HL67A750 dlp for a few years now (3D Ready bull and all) and have just recently
decided to try to get 3d working. I cannot believe how difficult this is. Here's what I have:

Samsung HL67A750 DLP
Pioneer VSX-1120K
Sony PS3 updated for 3D
Viewsonic PGD-150 3D Glasses

I set the hdmi cable from my ps3 to my VSX-1120K, and from the VSX-1120K to the HDMI3 input to the DLP. I renamed the input to PC. I can play the movie and it looks like it is 3d, but the glasses don't do anything when I power them on. They flicker 3 times indicating they are powered on but nothing else happens. I then see I might need to set the DLP into 3D Mode 1 or Mode 2, but on my DLP, this option is disabled. Does anyone know what the problem is? I also have a Panasonic DMP-BT100 but I don't have any 3D Blu-rays to test it out on yet. Hoping to validate 3D using my PS3 with what seems to be a fairly straightforward test.

Any advice appreciated. BTW, I can't tell you how much I loathe Samsung and will never willingly purchase anything they make ever again.

I don't need an emitter, do I? I saw some threads where people had used them with their DLP Link glasses, but I don't think they need the emitter. The Samsung DLPset is supposed to barf this signal out automatically.

Thanks (at least for letting me vent).

I'm not sure why you're having such troubles.

With my nVidia 3D Vision Kit, the 3D was up and going in 5 minutes (the time it took to open the boxes and plug in the cables)

I can watch 3D Blu-Rays, and play 3D games.

The nVidia package really simplifies things.

With your system, have you set the 3D mode to Checkboard output on the source device?

and you should google "PS3 and checkerboard" as it seems PS3 isn't natively support checkerboard mode. So you'll need an adapter in between to do the conversion.

Hi Yucky.

The PS3 and Panasonic DMP-BT100 are both set to checkboard. What do you have your tv set to? Does it have to be in 3D Mode 1 or Mode 2? On my tv, these options are grayed out. I think I might have to have an emitter plugged in to get them to be enabled, but is that really true? If it is, then you can't use DLP Link glasses without some kind of emitter plugged in. The stupid samsung manual is of NO HELP. It doesn't even mention this 3D Mode setting.

Yes, I have the nVidia emitter plugged in.

The TV set to mode 1, std.

Based on the readings, I'm fairly certain that DLP Link doesn't need an emitter plugged in.

Has anyone tried the Monster Cable Max3D glasses with this TV? I made a quick try and got nothing to work.

I just received my Mitsubishi 3DC-100S kit, and I set it up as the following.

* PS3 and Comcast box connected to Denon 4311ci (html 1.4)
* Denon Monitor 1 to Samsung HL67A750 html1.
* Denon Monitor 2 to 3DC-100S, and
* 3DC out to Samsung html3 (renamed to PC)

The nice thing about 4311 is that it has two html outputs, so that I can use one to connect to the TV directly and the other to connect to the TV through 3DC-100S. That way I can use TV1 html1 for regular use, and htm3 for 3D, and that works great.

However, I still have several issues.

1. 3D movies and games in PS3 works great, but the picture is much darker when viewed with the 3D glasses. Is this normal?
2. When 3D is turned on, the dark area in the picture appears to turn red. Can something be done about that?
3. Every time I use 3D, I need to set the TV to turn on 3D in mode 1. This is rather inconvenient. Can the TV be automatically set? I consider programming my Harmony to do that, but there no discrete code for mode1.
4. When viewing a 2D channel in Comcast, the 100S's pass-thru mode does not seems to work. The picture and sound in the TV cuts in and out. I swapped couple of html cables without changing anything. Needless to say, I could not attempt any 3D videos on Comcast at all.

I'd really appreciate any help with the above issues. Thanks.

Anyone have an idea of the problem? Do I need to set the HL67a750 into 3D Mode 1 or 2? I don't seem to have such an option available in my setup menu. Do I need a firmware update?

I have a panasonic dmp-bdt100 in checkerboard out, a vsx-1120k avr (1.4), a Samsung HL67a750 and Viewsonic PGD-150 3D Glasses. I can view a 3D Blu-ray on my DLP, and it looks like 2 images overlayed (i.e., 3d, and the panasonic is outputting 3d checkerboard according to the info) but the glasses don't shutter on and off. What could be wrong? Is there something specific on the TV that I need to set? I've already changed the HDMI3 input name to "PC", but is there anything else? How do I troubleshoot this? I hate that Samsung has pretty much washed their hands on this. I will NEVER buy anything with a Samsung logo on it again.

have you checked to make sure the source is outputing 1080p res? Some tvs only enable 3d mode if the correct resolutions is given.

Can't really blame Samsung since it seems to work pretty well with other people who have the same TV. If anything, it's the whole industries fault for not cooperating to come up with an industry standard.

This option appears in the tools menu only after the TV is receiving the checkerboard signal. For DLP link use mode 2 unless the glasses have a reverse switch.

So I got everything set up on my 3D Vision, and the 3D setup isn't recognizing that I have a 3D ready display. I get "3D Ready Display Not Found" in the 3D setup wizard.

TV:
I'm connected to HDMI3/DVI, input is set to PC.
In the 3D Menu Picture/Picture Options/3D effect, I've set Mode 1 (Tried 2 as well)

PC:
3D Vision is active/recognized, and plugged into the 3D IR port on the right side of the TV set. (Tried it unplugged as well.)
Latest 270.51 drivers installed

Equipment:
GeForce 560 Ti
Samsung H67A750
Windows 7 x64

Any ideas? Internet searches make it sound like this should be plug-and-play easy with this set. I'm hoping I'm missing something obvious...

make sure the emitter is also plugged into the USB.

And please don't use beta drivers first if you're trying to troubleshoot something. Commonsense 101.

Make sure the source is output as RGB, as well as 1920 x 1080p.