Samsung HL67A750 and 3D? - Page 7

Hi everyone! First time post to AVS. I just wanted to share my experience with Monster 3D Maxx glasses on this set and the wonderful customer service I've had with Monster.

These glasses are new on the market and so there's no much out on the net yet. I received these glasses about a week ago and when I plugged them in the first thing I noticed was red blacks. I knew this was an issue with dlp link and also that there were a couple different brands of glasses that supposedly fully blocked the dlp link and, in turn, the red blacks. Since theses glasses were too new to have any info on the net about this issue with our sets, I took a leap of faith and purchased these with the idea that since they were "top of the line" and "universal" that surely they would block the dlp link. Well, they didn't, so I thought at first.

I called Monster and spoke to a nice young lady and when I explained the issue I was having, and when she couldn't answer my question, she started live chatting with another tech support guy in San Francisco (she was in Utah) and she had him call me. She called it "escalating" He did and when he wasn't able to help, he immediately contacted the actual engineer who designed the glasses. A couple of days past and when I got a call back he suggested using the transmitter to go into the settings adjustment and adjusting the delay. Theory was that the color wheel was causing some delay and therefor not blocking the dlp link. My first thought was that my set doesn't use a color wheel so this guy doesn't know what he's talking about and this would not work; having already resigned to the fact that I was going to have to return these glasses. Well, I ADJUSTED THE DELAY AND BAM! NO MORE RED BLACKS! Also discovered that I was able to get a better 3D image by also adjusting the lens shutter time. These glasses are extremely configurable and IMO worth the extra money that I spent. They truly are universal.

Just wanted to say how happy I am with these glasses now that this issue is fixed and to applaud Monster's support of a fine product in an age of dwindling customer service and to possibly help someone else out who's experiencing the same problem.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. I have been looking for 6 months, off and on, for this information. I guess I never put the correct keywords in the search eng.

I'm pretty sure I know what i need to do to get 3D to my HL67A750, my question is about the HDMI switch.

I have an HD blur ray player, but I also would like to see what DirectTv's 3D programming looks like, plus I might get a gaming system that does 3D. I plan to purchase the 3D adapter from Tru3d.com. I know I will need a switch to accomplish my 3D plan, however Tru3D.com's HDMI switch is 98.00 + S&H. I see other HDMI switches online for 20.00 or 30.00. Does anyone know about any of the other switches or should I just purchase the one listed at Tru3D?

Also, is there a preference between the Xpand x102 and optoma BG-zd101 glasses, which are online a lot cheaper then what Tru3D.com carry them?

Thanks again. I hope this thread is not dead. I look forward to your response.

Reviving an old thread (and duplicating my post on another board) :

Per advice from this forum, I got the Mitisibushi 3Ds-100 emitter only from 3dglassesunlimited.com, along with the ssg2100Blick glasses, and am having some issues getting my HL67A750 Samsung to recognize the 3d signal. I set the HDMI3/DVI (renamed to PC) to 3D Mode 1, and got the infamous red tint, but when I attempted to play TRANSFORMERS 3D, all I got was the standard "3D display not recognized" menu screen.

I'm also not sure if the PS3 Slim is properly set to display 3D. It's at the most current update, but I didn't see the 3D options in the video settings menu.

Do I need any other hardware besides the emitter? I saw the red light flashing on it, so it must be working. Also, is there an RGB setting that needs to be specified on either the TV or PS3 end? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

3DC-1000 Emitter? or Adapter? Which is it you have?

The emitter is the little PC mouse shaped device with a red light on top that connects to a 3-pin jack in the back of the TV and it controlls the glasses - it has nothing to do with getting a 3D signal to the TVs from your PS3. If all you have is the emitter and glasses, then you do not have enough.

The 3DC-1000 adapter is a signal converter and has an HDMI input and output that connects between your PS3 and the TV. This is what you need to do 3D from the PS3. You can get the adatper in the 3DC-1000 Kit (adapter, remote control, emitter, 2 pair of glasses etc.) and you need to do so sort of special programming on the adatper to work with your Samsung. You can get the adapter as a 3DA-1 which is just the adapter and remote - no emitter or glasses - here again special programming for the Samsung. Or you can get the adapter in the 3DC-100S kit which does not require the special programming.

Ok thanks, I have the emitter only, thought I might have been missing a piece.

Has any one tried this yet? http://www.amazon.com/3DC-100S-Start...1128413&sr=1-1 Will the PS3 work with this setup?

Yes the PS3 will work in 3D with this.

Yes, and then you'll have two pairs of glasses and an emitter that are all but worthless on your set. Try to find the adapter without all the extras if you can. The DLP link flash on this set tints the blacks, so IR glasses aren't the best option because they leave in the tint. With the Samsung LED TV your best bet is to use DLP Link glasses or your blacks will look reddish. With DLP Link glasses your blacks will look fully black.

It is a bit annoying but it's not that bad on most 3D viewing you don't notice it.

You might no notice it, but I do and it bothers me. I think the effect is worse on some sets, because mine goes hot red in 3D mode and the only way to get it looking normal is with DLP link glasses. It is really dark scenes when it is noticeable, so playing games like COD Black OPS in 3D makes it stick out big time.

Having pretty much the same issue as Sharpie, only I'm using the DMP-210 Panny 3D player. Does anyone know how to get 3D Effect enabled on the Samsung end (it's greyed out, is are Film Mode)?

Panasonic is set to 1080p / Checkerboard
Samsung is using HDMI3 and renamed to PC

3D is only on HDMI 3 and it will become an active option when it gets a 1080p 3D checkerboard signal.

And both of those are set as is, and the 3D mode on the Samsung is still grey. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong as several users on this forum (as well as the in the main a750 thread) claim to to have enabled the 3D mode with nothing else but the TV and the Panny models 100 to 350, and yet none of them gave specific answers / solutions when the grey-ed out modes were present on the A750.

Sorry, I'm just frustrated with the set up and am on the brink of returning the 210 and the 3d equipment.

What happens when you put in a 3D movie does the Panasonic allow you to play it in the 3D checkerboard mode?? Also I have the Panasonic 300 and it would not transmit a 3D signal with a HDMI 1.3 cable I needed a 1.3a cable.

What happens when you put in a 3D movie does the Panasonic allow you to play it in the 3D checkerboard mode??

>> It plays the video/audio ok (there were intermittent sound drop outs on the audio, but the 3D image is definitely out of alignment (the test pattern on the Panny is as well) -- there's some pretty severe ghosting is going on. (Have TRON, TRANSFORMERS, and HUGO all tested)


Also I have the Panasonic 300 and it would not transmit a 3D signal with a HDMI 1.3 cable I needed a 1.3a cable.

>> Going out from the Panny 210 is a Mediabridge Ultra cord, HDMI 1.3b rated. Not sure if there's a difference between "a" and "b" .

Going out from the Pioneer receiver is this cord,

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...#specification

which might be "a" or "b", but I can't seem to find out if it is. If it's 1.3 only, perhaps that might make a difference.

Basically, as far as I can tell, the 750 is the component not working properly, as it's not able to recognize 3D Effect in the Options mode

Samsung A750
Pioneer VSX-1021K
Panasonic DMP-BDT210

1.3a or above is good. Have you tried hooking the 210 directly to the Samsung to eliminate that your receiver is the problem? I have the Pioneer 820 receiver and I don't have any problems, so I don't think the Pioneer is the problem but it's worth a shot.

Have you tried hooking the 210 directly to the Samsung to eliminate that your receiver is the problem? I have the Pioneer 820 receiver and I don't have any problems, so I don't think the Pioneer is the problem but it's worth a shot.

>> I thought the same thing when I went home from work, and what do you know?... It worked! The second cord must not have been "a". Thanks for the help!

You can use either a 1.3a, 1.3b or a hdmi 1.4 cable. You also need to check the setting of the Pioneer to make sure is not being altered. This is the path I am using - Panasonic Blu-ray player, Pioneer receiver, Mits 3D converter, Samsung TV. The Panasonic Blu-ray player senses that it is hooked up to a 3D Tv because of the Mits 3D converter, so it will not allow me to output checkerboard but only a standard 3D signal.which the Mits 3D converter changes to checkerboard.

Ok, the second 1.3a HDMI cord showed up, and the A750 still refuses to see the 3D mode. THe only way I can enable it is to directly hook up the 310 to the tv (both cords verified to work with a direct port from player to tv). So maybe the problem is in the receiver? The 310 outputs checkerboard, so that's not a prob, but when passing through the receiver, it seems to forget that.

Anynet / Viera are both turned on for the A750 and 310. HDMI control is set to "on" in the receiver.

After reading much of this and other threads, I need some clarity as I am confused:

What is the best setup for getting the HL61A750 to 3d with best picture and performance? Links or part numbers appreciated.

Thanks!

"best" is subjective.

You want the 3DA-1 if you can find one. That will take just about any valid 3D format and convert it to checkerboard, which is the only format supported by your set. This converts cable tv 3d, playstation, or any media player (ex: WD Live TV) that can output s-b-s or t/b 3D. This device is amazing, but you may have to hack your TV with a Mitts ID in order for the 3DA-1 to work. There are whole threads on this elsewhere. I have heard that there is a Mitts 3D adapter, the 3DC-100s, that is made for Samsung sets, but I've never seen them for sale.

Or you can get any Bly-ray player that supports checkerboard output, but you are now limited to only watching Blu-ray movies. Nothing else (except DLP Link 3d glasses) required.

Alternatively, you could just set up an HTPC with either NVIDIA or AMD video card that supports 3D, buy Powerdvd software that will look after 3D blu-rays and other 3d format files. Of course, you cannot use this setup for cable/satellite etc. Depending on your sources you want to watch, this may be an alternative which doesn't need the mitsubishi adapter. All you need is DLP link glasses.

If I can once again revive this thread, let me share my experience w/ this, and see if this is normal, or if there's a way to have the TV automatically change the setting.

Currently this is my set up:

Samsung HL67A750 3D Ready TV
Panasonic DMP-BDT220 > Running thru my Yamaha Receiver (3D Pass-thru)
UltraClear HD DLP Link

I've gotten the 3D to work, and it works beautifully. I have NOT gotten an emitter yet, and don't know if I need one per se.

So here's my question.

When I play my Prometheus 3D BluRay, before you get to the movie there are a lot of 3D > 2D > 3D > 2D switching going on. Meaning, one message is 3D, another comes up as 2D, then another 3D menu, etc.

Each time this happens, my TV "reverts" back to the 2D, because the 3D signal is lost. Then, when the movie starts, I have to manually set the 3D in the TV menu again.

Is there ANY benefit the IR emitter gives you? Does the TV become more automatic sensing 3D if it knows that's connected?

It's kinda a pain to have to manually set the TV to 3D every time, and especially when not every menu is in 3D.

Once the movie starts, it's fine and sticks w/ the 3D, only reverting back when the disk is out, or whatever.

Anyone else experience this? Is this normal? Just the nature of the 3D Ready TV's, or is there an actual benefit to the 3D emitter besides just sending the signal.

Thanks.

I have the same setup except that I use a Sony 3-D pass through receiver. I just got my UltraClear HD DLP Link glasses yesterday and they work great. Prometheus 3D Bluray works just as you describe. I do not think getting an IR or RF 3D emitter will help at all unless you also buy a different set of 3D glasses which accept the IR or RF inputs. I doubt the UltraClear DLP glasses work with emitters. I think you have to buy a different Ultraclear model with their IR emitter. If you do go that route, let us know the results.