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The "Official" Onkyo TX-SR607 Thread - Page 85

post #2521 of 2589
I think your HDMI_board is about to die.....

I don't know where the instruction for the repair is, but it seems to be that the caps are bad....

Try to open the case and warm the board up with a hairdryer. If it the connection is there immediatly, than you are on the right side....;-)


regards Nils
post #2522 of 2589
Hi,

1. Would be cool to see pics. Inline temp control would be nice also. Seen cheap temp units at AV Cabinet Cooler sites. Did you find a nice quiet fan (I'm looking for future AV cooling needs).

2. Nice find. I don't use the Universal Port either, but I think that's where the iPod or HD-Radio attaches. I wonder if we can leave UP connected and tap 12v in parallel (since fan is under 100mA)?

3. Agreed. Onkyo 609 got a fan ... limited by volume, not temp controlled.

4. Seems to be industry problem. I find bulging and leaking chinese ones. Replace with good-name Japanese

5. Yes, I use cold-spray and my ESR-checker

6. I hate lead-free and think it causes problems over time. Hope they work it out or stop using it.

7. No, I did not. However, I use this for 1080p and HD-Audio (works perfect) "45ft 22AWG CL2 Standard Speed w/ Ethernet HDMI Cable" from MonoPrice. Actually, complete HDMI run is 57ft.***

1.) I promise I will take pictures...I didn't fid a quiete one, it was a CPU-cooler that was in my shop....Not really quite, but my projector is not quite too....but I am thinking of a resistor...I have some 10 Ohms here ( I bought for the repair....but it was the other one...;-)

2.) I think it will work, This should be not to much, as the idea UP design was, to handle different devices....If you use a quiet low power Fan, the voltage regulator is better cooled. should be fine......

3.) Temp control is a good idea, I think I will only slow down my one....

4.) Yes....105° degree celsius, will last longe...normaly they use 85°

5.) You have a ESR-Checker......Have to put it on my wishlist....

6.) The industry says everthing is fine.....(but I remeber medical-systems are allowed to solder with lead....) ;-)

7.) Ok 57 ft....that is quite good....this is about 20 Meters? (how do they call a quater pounder.....le bigmac .....I because of the metrical system!! ;-) ) I am from germany....everything is in meters....
I have a 10m Run( should be around 30ft. from the receiver to the benq w1070) works fine too. But I think a dying hdmi-board, will reduce the max. length too.....


Best regards Nils
post #2523 of 2589
2.) I took further view on the shematics....
the 12V for the UP port are directly from the first rectifier......no voltage regulator....
This Voltage is splitted to everything. DSP, LAN HDMI U.port)
So there should be more than enough power to run the fan.....
post #2524 of 2589
Quote:
Originally Posted by nilsvoss View Post

5.) You have a ESR-Checker......Have to put it on my wishlist....

 

A little off topic, but since we are talking about bad caps in these AVRs, other might like to know as well.

 

I bought this one after some research. This is just a hobby for me, but I needed a working cap-meter. I have used it to fix lots of stuff ... DVDs players, TVs, PC LCDs ... even the black-box engine computer in my car.

 

ESR Micro v4

 

http://www.prc68.com/I/ESRmicro.shtml

 

http://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=2651.0

 

http://preher-tv.blogspot.com/2010/05/esr-micro-v40.html

post #2525 of 2589
I promised to take picture of my fan:

Herre we go, yesterday I installed a 35 ohm in series to the Fan to make it quieter.....works good.

IMG_0803_small.jpg 255k .jpg file IMG_0804_small.jpg 271k .jpg file


Regards Nils
post #2526 of 2589
I also got a SR607 with HDMI board failing. (OSD not working, Component->HDMI out switching not working). I saw the youtube video for replacing the caps on SR606, but not for 607. Does anyone know if there are any instructions for 607? Or are these two HDMI-boards identical?

contacted the service center for Onkyo sweden, and they said it will cost around 100$ to repair. Its not really worth it imo, so i will try to fix it my self, and if i fail i will get a new one. (Maybe the 616?)
post #2527 of 2589
Hello,
is it possible to turn on/off a benq w1000 projector using hdmi cec with the onkyo remote control?
I'm not sure how to configure the avr to accomplish this.

Thx
testor
post #2528 of 2589
Hi everyone. Does anyone know an easier way of updating the firmware on the Onkyo 607? Onkyo themselves have given me their UK agent to contact to get this done, but they want £100 for doing it, which just seems like an awful lot, when all I want is to get my Onkyo to recognize a Humax set-top box. I'm sure there must be a simpler way.
post #2529 of 2589
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyb2013 View Post

Hi everyone. Does anyone know an easier way of updating the firmware on the Onkyo 607? Onkyo themselves have given me their UK agent to contact to get this done, but they want £100 for doing it, which just seems like an awful lot, when all I want is to get my Onkyo to recognize a Humax set-top box. I'm sure there must be a simpler way.

It's my understanding that you play a digital CD into it. AFAIK, there is no firmware upgrade for 607. It's not like it is a newer model with ethernet or USB.

 

Plus, sometimes machines get worse after firmwares. I would look else-where for problems or just buy a new one that you can return.

post #2530 of 2589
It was actually Onkyo themselves that told me it would need a firmware upgrade to recognise the Humax, so I am assuming there is an upgrade available, even though it may be only available to Onkyo designated agents (maybe).
post #2531 of 2589
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyb2013 View Post

It was actually Onkyo themselves that told me it would need a firmware upgrade to recognise the Humax, so I am assuming there is an upgrade available, even though it may be only available to Onkyo designated agents (maybe).

I understand, but I also stand by my comment. HDMI v1.2 and v1.3 haven't changed, so all HDMI devices should work. Unless you have seen your Humax HDMI STB work with some other HDMI-AVR (while still refusing to work with 607) ... i would look elsewhere.

 

Have you tried a new cable (know good one)?

 

Have you tried turning on 607 and TV first (then Humax last)?

 

Does Humax work when directly connected to TV's HDMI?

post #2532 of 2589
Hi. Yes the Humax worked fine until it was directed through the amp and still works fine if connected direct to TV via HDMi, so cable works as does the Humax box Have tried 1.3 and 1.4 HDMi cables, no change. Yes, tried turning on TV first and amp first, no change. It's a minor thing but very frustrating. I can live without the Humax, except it means I have no alternative video recording route other than smart TV (which means you can only record what you are watching - pointless - or when you are out with TV on strand-by). The hard drive video recorder I have is good but it has no Freeview built-in, so the Humax was going to be it's source for that, meaning I could then at least record while watching another channel. But now with everything going via the amp, the Humax is the only device that isn't recognised.
post #2533 of 2589
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyb2013 View Post

Hi. Yes the Humax worked fine until it was directed through the amp and still works fine if connected direct to TV via HDMi, so cable works as does the Humax box Have tried 1.3 and 1.4 HDMi cables, no change. Yes, tried turning on TV first and amp first, no change. It's a minor thing but very frustrating. I can live without the Humax, except it means I have no alternative video recording route other than smart TV (which means you can only record what you are watching - pointless - or when you are out with TV on strand-by). The hard drive video recorder I have is good but it has no Freeview built-in, so the Humax was going to be it's source for that, meaning I could then at least record while watching another channel. But now with everything going via the amp, the Humax is the only device that isn't recognised.

Have you tried turning off HDMI-CEC on both?

 

Tried another HDMI-In on 607?

 

What TV do you have and is it connected to 607 via HDMI? Wonder if this might be a HDCP issue?

 

Last resort (other than paying a tech to flash firmware on an old 607 ... not even a guaranteed fix) ... connect Humax video to TV and digital SPDIF (optical or coax) to 607.

post #2534 of 2589
Hey guys,

Did someone a firmwareupdate on his sr607? Do some has the file?




Regards Nils
post #2535 of 2589
Thanks Tesla. I will try the other potential remedies you suggest. Not sure how to turn off HDMI-CEC (not exactly aware of what CEC is). The TV itself is a new Samsung Smart LED UE46F6500 connected via ARC HDMI to the amp. What does digital SPDIF mean? Should add ... the Humax is not a video player or recorder, it's a Freeview set-top box.
post #2536 of 2589
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyb2013 View Post

Thanks Tesla. I will try the other potential remedies you suggest. Not sure how to turn off HDMI-CEC (not exactly aware of what CEC is). The TV itself is a new Samsung Smart LED UE46F6500 connected via ARC HDMI to the amp. What does digital SPDIF mean? Should add ... the Humax is not a video player or recorder, it's a Freeview set-top box.

HDMI-CEC is called something different in Samsung. On Onkyo, it's RIHD.

 

SPDIF is Digital Sound. It's either Optical or Coax.

 

Pretty sure Onkyo 607 is HDMI v1.3, so no ARC support. I think you need HDMI v1.4 for that (like Onkyo 609 and higher).

post #2537 of 2589
Hi. Yes, but for whatever reason, the TV's ARC HDMI needs 1.4 - and it works fine in the amp. I had to use an optical and HDMI cable with the TV, but not sure the Humax has an optical socket (just HDMI) - will have to check.
post #2538 of 2589
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyb2013 View Post

Hi. Yes, but for whatever reason, the TV's ARC HDMI needs 1.4 - and it works fine in the amp. I had to use an optical and HDMI cable with the TV,

 

You might want to research ARC and what it does. HDMI works without it ... it's just an extra feature. Usually, when working, just means you DO NOT have to run extra Optical cable from TV back to Amp to hear audio from tuners built into the TV (like ATSC antenna or Internet Apps).

 

So, from your description ... we know ARC isn't working. It can't since the Onkyo 607 (part of the HDMI chain) doesn't support it. But no big deal ... you just run the Optical cable and reconfig Amp to get sound from it instead.

 

Remember, it's really SPDIF we are talking about. It's usually Optical, but it can also be "Digital Coax" (which looks similar to the old analog RCA cables).


Edited by Tesla1856 - 10/16/13 at 11:57am
post #2539 of 2589

I think my SR607 HDMI board blew out because I cannot get any HDMI output from it or any audio from the HDMI inputs.  However, the radio works fine.  It oddly went the same time as my DVD player and the optical board on the epson projector. Not sure how that would be related, but hard to believe it isn't. I have a new projector, but would like to get around buying a new receiver.  I am thinking of buying an HDMI switcher that can take several HDMI inputs and have one HDMI output.  That will go to the projector.  The switcher also has an optical audio output that I would put into the receiver.  Does anyone have any thoughts on whether the TOSlink is independent of the HDMI and is likely to work?

post #2540 of 2589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renouart1 View Post
 

I think my SR607 HDMI board blew out because I cannot get any HDMI output from it or any audio from the HDMI inputs.  However, the radio works fine.  It oddly went the same time as my DVD player and the optical board on the epson projector. Not sure how that would be related, but hard to believe it isn't. I have a new projector, but would like to get around buying a new receiver.  I am thinking of buying an HDMI switcher that can take several HDMI inputs and have one HDMI output.  That will go to the projector.  The switcher also has an optical audio output that I would put into the receiver.  Does anyone have any thoughts on whether the TOSlink is independent of the HDMI and is likely to work?

Could be, especially if running it this whole time without fan.

 

Be sure to test all other devices with known good HDMI cable, connected directly to a HDTV (or maybe even to projector). DVD Component (R,G, & B Cables) directly to projector or maybe through Amp also.

post #2541 of 2589

Thanks for the quick response.

 

I remember seeing a link about hooking up a fan - any thoughts on where to find it? Maybe I don't need it now since the HDMI board is dead?

 

Also, I had the brilliant idea of testing the coaxial digital link off my cable box, and it worked fine, so at least that is independent of the HDMI board.

 

Thanks for the suggestion about testing the cables - I did that directly from the cable box and appletv.  They worked, so I am left with a wounded 607.

post #2542 of 2589
YES, the toslink audio IS separate from the HDMI. Probably too late to worry about a fan. Sorry for your troubles.

Ed
Edited by old corps - 10/22/13 at 6:30pm
post #2543 of 2589
I use these plugged into the USB out on my 609.http://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-Dual-80mm-Cooling-Fans/dp/B002NVC1DS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1382491113&sr=8-3&keywords=coolerguys+fans Had the 607 before but never used them on it and never had a problem.

Ed
post #2544 of 2589

Thanks for confirming that.  At least now I can get by with a $50 HDMI switcher from Monoprice instead of having to buy a new receiver - though the ones with airplay and bluetooth to play direct from a phone do look nice...

post #2545 of 2589

I am a bit worried that the to slink could be out of sync with the video since I understand the HDMI video and audio are supposed to be synced, but that is not the case for the toslink.  The HDMI to the projector is about 30 feet long.  I guess I will have to try it to be sure, but any thoughts?

post #2546 of 2589
Do you have a soldering Iron and know how to use it?
Just try to repair it, i couldn't get badder.....;-)
post #2547 of 2589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renouart1 View Post
 

I am a bit worried that the to slink could be out of sync with the video since I understand the HDMI video and audio are supposed to be synced, but that is not the case for the toslink.  The HDMI to the projector is about 30 feet long.  I guess I will have to try it to be sure, but any thoughts?

Before HDMI, sync problems were common. Maybe you can program a ms delay or advance.

 

Personally, I would just buy a new amp ... either cheap or nice depending on budget.

post #2548 of 2589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renouart1 View Post

I am a bit worried that the to slink could be out of sync with the video since I understand the HDMI video and audio are supposed to be synced, but that is not the case for the toslink.  The HDMI to the projector is about 30 feet long.  I guess I will have to try it to be sure, but any thoughts?

I think it'll be fine but if it's off you can always do the delay thing as mentioned with the receiver.

Ed
post #2549 of 2589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tesla1856 View Post
 

Personally, I would just buy a new amp ... either cheap or nice depending on budget.

Obviously, to get back HDMI and related features.

 

To put it another way ... if you are using Optical/Coax SPDIF, that means you are likely then using (analog) Component for Video. Component just doesn't have the quality (resolution, color depth, clarity, etc.) of HDMI. This should be evident on HDTV but especially on projector.

post #2550 of 2589

So, here is where I am at - I bought a 4x1 HDMI switch from Monoprice (PN 5557) and have an appleTV2 and samsung bluray feeding into that, and the HDMI out from the switch to the projector.  I am using the digital coax out of the switch into the SR607 with the blown HDMI board.  So far, the picture from Netflix or HBO-TOGO look good and the audio is synced with the video.  Have yet to run a disc, but at least I can say the streaming works and so does the 5.1 sound.

 

Thanks for everyone's thoughts.  To replace the HDMI board would have cost $200, and the switch was $45. I am not ready to move on from my Onkyo just yet, so this seems like a good way to make do till I find a new receiver some time next year.

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