The Valley Theater & Game Room (The Return of the Build Thread) - Page 8

I've already started planning theater 2.o that will take me at least two years.

I promised some more pictures of the DVD Case Doors along with some detail of how I build them.

Please note if I was truly trying to conceal a room I wouldn't post pics of it online. These are purely novelty and to make use of the space a door would occupy... Hence no elaborate locking mechanism.

The #1 thing to remember when creating inward opening doors of this sort is you have to allow for the depth (b) of the door and make your opening that much wider.
If you remember your geometry the the distance (c) from the rear hinge (A) to the front face on the latch side (B) is longer than the face of your cabinet (a). You use your trim to cover this gap.

Solve for c (little c)


Except for the back and trim all of the lumber for the DVD Case Doors are select pine dimensional lumber. 3/4" stain grade pine plywood for the back and what ever trim floats your boat for the back.

In my case 1x8s making shelves that are 71/4" deep & 3/4" thick.
Each shelf is supported by an 8" cut piece of 1x8 and the sides are full length pieces. The "kick plate at the bpttom can be what ever is left over from your total height or you can adjust the height of your bottom shelf. I like the look of the kick plate though.

I'll throw up a diagram of the pieces when I get a chance.

I have an additional piece of 1x4 around the back to trim out the plywood and to give myself a an other 3/4" of screw depth for the hinges.

These are the hinges I used. 5 for the big case 4 for the small one. (Note the link is for a "3 -pack".)

Global CP4545BB-26D-M Commercial Grade, Full Mortise Ball Bearing Hinge 3-Pack, Brushed Chrome

Fridge came from home depot... Cheapest one I found approved as a "built-in" unit.

Additional DVD Case door info.

Hope this makes sense. Width and Height can vary to fit your need.

For mine each shelve for my DVD case doors is 8" high to accommodate over-sized DVD boxes . There is a single ripped 1x8 for the "kick plate" at the bottom to make up remaining distance. Both my doors are standard "door height" so I could match trim with the door to the bathroom. The Plywood on the back forces the structure to stay rigid and square. Every join is nailed and glued. The entire door is very sturdy with absolutely no sag despite catching the kids climbing on them a few times.

The bar is 8'4" wide by 20" deep. But I only have 7'3" between the bar "supports" which are basically 2x4 half walls. Because of that 4 stools at my bar would be really tight.



If you are using more space efficient supports for your bar you might be OK.

The arched "window" above the bar is 7' wide.

I've started a thread for the planning stage of my new theater/house build here:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1425070/vt-theater-game-lounge-and-home-automation-the-prequel

This is all I have currently in my photobucket account. I'll try to get some detail and dimensions for you.

The construction is pretty simple. The body of it is just finished drywall painted to match the theater. The shelves are all stain grade select pine.
A small support strip is glued and nailed to each side wall. The shelve is glued and nailed to each pair of supports. And a 4th piece just wide enough to cover the front edge of the shelve and the support is nailed and glued to the front. Other than the drawer at the bottom and some trim at the bottom and back that is all there is to it.

I'll get you more latter.

No problem. Here is the rest:

Entire opening is 69" tall by 19" wide by 16.5" deep. Space between shelves is 13.5". The trim piece on each shelve is 1.5" wide. All the lumber used is 1x dimensional lumber so is 3/4" thick.
Drawer takes up the remaining space at ~8" tall.

Front


Support from the back.


Rear view... Damn my cable management use to be good back there.... will have to clean it up




Drawer Inside


Drawer Rails


Support from the front.