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BIC Acoustech H200 Subwoofer (AKA PL-200) - Page 42

post #1231 of 1399
Just got mine, and what a monster this thing is! By FAR the best sub under $500.
post #1232 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyJonesBSME View Post

I'd be willing to pay 1.5 times as much for a sub, but not that much more. I was really happy with the PL-200. Is there anything considerably better in the $400-$600 range?

I went from a PL-200 to an Outlaw LFM-1 EX, and am much happier with the bass in my room. I got mine for $599 shipped from Outlaw. They usually have a sale every 3-4 months, with the next one most likely on Black Friday.
post #1233 of 1399
When running the Audyssey setup on my reciever, I am not sure what the settings on the back of my sub should be set at.
I have a Acoustech BIC PL-200 .

I have the volume set at the 12 O'Clock position, but not sure what to set the Phase to (0 or 180), Crossover fequency, or the Crossover Out or In.
post #1234 of 1399
12 o'clock for the gain (volume) may be too high. The goal is to set the gain on the sub such that Audyssey determines a subwoofer channel level close to 0db. You may need to adjust the sub gain and run Audyssey multiple times to achieve that.

Phase, leave at 0. Audyssey will handle that.

I'm not sure about how to bypass the crossover on the sub, but you want to do so. You'll use your receiver to set the crossover. After running Audyssey, you may need to set your speakers to small. Then try a crossover of 80hz on the receiver. Leave the LFE setting at 120hz.
post #1235 of 1399
To by pass the crossover, there is a switch on the back. Set the switch to crossover out. Setting it to crossover in is for using the internal crossover.
post #1236 of 1399
I want to buy one of these but the scattered reports of amps going bad is scaring me...everyone here still happy so I can pull the trigger?
post #1237 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdawg17 View Post

I want to buy one of these but the scattered reports of amps going bad is scaring me...everyone here still happy so I can pull the trigger?
I've had mine for about 2 yrs without any issues at all. I've ran lots of heavy things thru them like War of the Worlds, Tron, Cloverfield etc..and they are still going strong.
post #1238 of 1399
I have one of the early PL-200's that were on the ship stuck in Japan after the Tsunami. It is still going strong, and just recently I bought one off Craigslist and have had no issues with it. I run the hell out of my two PL-200's.

Anything made by man is subject to failure. A certain percentage of electronic items are expected to be DOA or fail. As an example, I worked for HP doing telephone tech support on their deskjet printers many years ago (1995). The observed failure rate was under 1% of the total number of printers sold.

If you want a PL-200, grab it.. The chances are in your favor you will get many happy years of service out of it without any issues.
post #1239 of 1399
owned mine for several months and have no problem. I say go for it.
post #1240 of 1399
Just picked one of these up from Acoustic Sound Design, hooked it up to my GF's dad's system, watched the dark knight rises blu and it sounded about as good as it could with his old reciever and satelite speakers. I did however get a rattling noise out of the top of the sub on occasion. I could put some pressure down on the top of it and it seems to dampen the rattling. Is there a quick fix on this? Was I maybe pushing it a little too hard? I had the volume at maybe 1 o clock.
Edited by gabec803 - 12/5/12 at 10:11am
post #1241 of 1399
I usually had mine on about the 11 o'clock position. So maybe that's why I didn't experience any rattling. Maybe the sub is bottoming out and that's why the rattling is occurring. Try decreasing the volume and see if it happens.
post #1242 of 1399
Mine is en route to me but I have a question on cables/connection. I trust I'll need a Y-splitter cable to connect this sub to my AVR along w/a male to male cable?
post #1243 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wryker View Post

Mine is en route to me but I have a question on cables/connection. I trust I'll need a Y-splitter cable to connect this sub to my AVR along w/a male to male cable?
You only need a single male to male cable. No need to for a Y-splitter
post #1244 of 1399
You only need the splitter if you have two subs.
post #1245 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by freeyayo50 View Post

You only need the splitter if you have two subs.
This will be my second sub. The other one has a Y-splitter (to create the left/right red/black inputs to it). This sub has left/right black/red inputs too that's why I asked. My AVR supports two subs.
post #1246 of 1399
When I set my sub switch to auto, the light stays red even when I have my receiver on. This forces me to leave the switch on the sub to on position all the time. This normal? How do I get auto working?
post #1247 of 1399
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodean View Post

When I set my sub switch to auto, the light stays red even when I have my receiver on. This forces me to leave the switch on the sub to on position all the time. This normal? How do I get auto working?
With Auto, it won't turn on when your receiver is on. it will turn on when an lfe signal is given to out by your receiver. For example, you could listen to 2 channel audio all day long and it would stay red/off. You could then play a 2.1 source for half a second and the light will turn green/on and stay on for a few minutes.
post #1248 of 1399
That's totally normal, the light won't switch to "green" until something with low frequency bass is playing through the receiver. It's usually just a better idea to have it set to "always on" due to low sensitivity on these auto on features.
post #1249 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxfj View Post

I have one of the early PL-200's that were on the ship stuck in Japan after the Tsunami. It is still going strong, and just recently I bought one off Craigslist and have had no issues with it. I run the hell out of my two PL-200's.
Anything made by man is subject to failure. A certain percentage of electronic items are expected to be DOA or fail. As an example, I worked for HP doing telephone tech support on their deskjet printers many years ago (1995). The observed failure rate was under 1% of the total number of printers sold.
If you want a PL-200, grab it.. The chances are in your favor you will get many happy years of service out of it without any issues.
post #1250 of 1399
Just picked up a PL-200 for 279$ at AcousticSoundDesign.com +FS

Enter "TV 15" code at checkout for 15% off.
post #1251 of 1399
I've owned a PL-200 for a while now and have never seen a SPL chart/graph for it. I searched this thread and don't see one. Does anybody know if one exists and where it can be found?
post #1252 of 1399
post #1253 of 1399
Go here and click on the PL-200 link to access even more data and measurements.
post #1254 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by Louquid View Post

Here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cel4145 View Post

Go here and click on the PL-200 link to access even more data and measurements.

Perfect. Thank you both. That's a great tool/sight. I like the PL-200 but I'm certainly not in love with it and I'm catching a bit of the upgrade bug. I might be able to grab a used Outlaw LFM-1EX for around $400 (or 2 for $800). I thought that buying one would be a big upgrade, but maybe not, according to the measurements. I wish the HSU VTF-15H was on there too. Seems like the next significant step up in subwooferage would be to spend around $1k or so.
post #1255 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjl4004 View Post


Perfect. Thank you both. That's a great tool/sight. I like the PL-200 but I'm certainly not in love with it and I'm catching a bit of the upgrade bug. I might be able to grab a used Outlaw LFM-1EX for around $400 (or 2 for $800). I thought that buying one would be a big upgrade, but maybe not, according to the measurements. I wish the HSU VTF-15H was on there too. Seems like the next significant step up in subwooferage would be to spend around $1k or so.

There are review measurements of the VTF-15H on Audioholics, although I think they are 1m ground plane measurements instead of 2m (have to be adjusted to compare). Best estimate would be that two EXs can equal the output of 1 VTF-15H, and then you get the benefit of having dual subs for smoothing the in room response.
post #1256 of 1399
Ive had a pl-200 for a couple months now and I think it was a good purchase considering what I paid for it (acousticsounddesigns is local to me) and a huge upgrade from the Onkyo htib sub I had. But, since I've been poking around the DIY section, I think I am going to build 2-4 anarchy 25hz horns.
post #1257 of 1399
I just got in my second PL-200 to replace my S-10 Aperion Sub. I replaced my 7.1 Aperion set-up w/the Bic Acoustech set-up and the sound, IMO, is better.
post #1258 of 1399
Question: should the crossover on the sub bet set to "in" or "out"?
I have the Onkyo NR818
post #1259 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wryker View Post

Question: should the crossover on the sub bet set to "in" or "out"?
I have the Onkyo NR818

If you are using the receiver to control the sub crossover point then use OUT.
post #1260 of 1399
I have a concern with this sub. I bought it from acousticsounddesign.com and received the box. It seemed to be a little light. The specs all say 52 pounds, but I put it on a scale and it read 37 pounds. I have not listened a ton yet, but I am not blown away. Should I be concerned?
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