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BIC Acoustech H200 Subwoofer (AKA PL-200) - Page 33

post #961 of 1303
7/13/11 at 4:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post


I too just got one of these. Per the lights it is on. I get no crackle when the subwoofer cable is bumped against the jack. The current receiver setting and cable drives a Sony and an Infinity.. not a peep out of this thing.

The AC power cord or the socket is junk. You need to press it in really firmly to seat it, it will work its way loose as it just isn't in the cord far enough even when the plug is in all the way. I have seen that with PC power supplies.

I have the crossover set to 90 or whatever the highest value is on the sub. I have tried the crossover switch in both positions. Nothing, nada, zip. You would think they would at least test them to see they light and make a tone before they ship them... how freaking hard is that. I could see if it died after being on a few minute... dead silence.

I was pretty excited to get this thing.. why is so hard to get a subwoofer that works right out of the box. It is the world simplest appliance. Any clock radio is more complicated.

This infinity I have was an open box and always had problems coming out of standby.. so I kind of hated it. Recently while it still works it has a problem with only making about half the output it once did. The $149 Sony has never done anything wrong except it sounds like you are beating a horse when you turn it up to much.

Any troubleshooting suggestions? Yes I have the reciever setup so all speaker are set to small. I have tried setting the receiver crossover at 80 HZ, 120 and 200. Of course none of that matters if it won't crackle when you touch the cable againt the input jack.

I guess I can look at the fuse. But I would assume if the fuse was blown, the power lights would not work.

Edit:
The fuse is good. In 10 minutes the power plug came out again by itself. This is some pretty awful Quality Control.

There were a batch of these that were shipped out that had a problem with the positive terminal wiring slipping off in shipping. Sounds like what you've got there. Easy fix...just remove speaker(carefully) and slide the connector back on, should take just a couple minutes. I hope this helps
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post #962 of 1303
7/13/11 at 7:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by clownaphobia View Post

There were a batch of these that were shipped out that had a problem with the positive terminal wiring slipping off in shipping. Sounds like what you've got there. Easy fix...just remove speaker(carefully) and slide the connector back on, should take just a couple minutes. I hope this helps

Thanks for the heads up!

Yeah, the positive lead was off.. not a millimeter of red lead to spare. Man, I was one frustrated dude.

A good manufacturer would have pulled every one of these out of the box and done this repair before the boxes ever got to the cutsomer. You can open a box and make an adjustment or recall repair without it making the product refurbished as long as it is done before the first end user sale. I worked for Compaq and HP many years. I know the law on this clearly.

I am going to give them heck in feedback!

Sounds mucho better than what I had that is for sure!!
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post #963 of 1303
7/13/11 at 1:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post


Thanks for the heads up!

Yeah, the positive lead was off.. not a millimeter of red lead to spare. Man, I was one frustrated dude.

A good manufacturer would have pulled every one of these out of the box and done this repair before the boxes ever got to the cutsomer. You can open a box and make an adjustment or recall repair without it making the product refurbished as long as it is done before the first end user sale. I worked for Compaq and HP many years. I know the law on this clearly.

I am going to give them heck in feedback!

Sounds mucho better than what I had that is for sure!!

Glad to know you got it fixed! I think the wiring on some may have come undone during shipping....prob not fair to blame it all on the manufacturer
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post #964 of 1303
7/14/11 at 1:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by clownaphobia View Post

Glad to know you got it fixed! I think the wiring on some may have come undone during shipping....prob not fair to blame it all on the manufacturer

another couple of inches of cable and it would probably not have pulled off. Anyone know why there is no polyfill or foam blankets in this sub. I took apart my older Infinity PS12 with the weak, but not quite dead amp. It had blankets and very strong cross bracing. None of that seem to in evidence on the PL-200.

Would som poly fill or some fiber blankets make much of a difference on these things?
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post #965 of 1303
7/14/11 at 11:50am
I would imagine the reason you're not finding any fill or bracing is to keep costs down. Even 1-2 inches extra of wire are taken into consideration when you're doing everything possible to make it as cheap as possible.

Someone earlier posted about the top vibrating under heavy bass and my PL-200 does the same thing. I am planning on pulling the driver and amp out to see about adding some bracing to help stiffen things up. Nothing elaborate to take away from the overall internal cabinet volume.
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post #966 of 1303
7/14/11 at 11:52pm
I was thinking about a SubDude.. I decided I needed to look around for a chearper better solution. Acutally, I did find an excellent solution. I will probably refine it a little bit but it worked great immediately I had some2.5" cell foam pipe insulation. There were two links in the garage around 24". These are the dark gray color and have the plit to ease insulation on the pipe with adhesive closer to seal around the pipe.

I ran one horizontally across back and one across the front. They are sitting just to the inside of the peg feet... It might work better with a 2" I don't know. But once trimmed to width, they will not be visible and they completely isoloate the sub from the floor and the cabinet vibration was dramatically reduced.

I don't know what I paid for the two pices but it must have bee less than $10. Amazingly effective cheap soltuion and esthetically with my sub in the corner I really can't see the tubes under the sub.

It immediately sounded cleaner. The floor is wood on concrete. I still think a $10 bag of polyfill is in order.
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post #967 of 1303
7/15/11 at 1:25pm
Where is the best place to get this sub?
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post #968 of 1303
7/15/11 at 5:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1max2nv View Post
Where is the best place to get this sub?
If you are reffering about the Pl-200 then I would suggest....
http://www.acousticsounddesign.com/c...pid=1537&sc=33


$280 shipped
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post #969 of 1303
7/15/11 at 9:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

....they will not be visible and they completely isoloate the sub from the floor and the cabinet vibration was dramatically reduced.

I know some in the F-12 forum use the shipping styrofoam for the same thing.
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post #970 of 1303
7/16/11 at 12:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperactiveme View Post

I know some in the F-12 forum use the shipping styrofoam for the same thing.

The thing that makes the pipe insulation nice versus normal packing foam is that they are essentially a very compliant spring. Since the core of the tube is hollow they deflect a certain amount because of the weight of the sub but still keep their shape..

I asusme they would provide more isolation than anything short of a thich rubber band/hammock affair. They allow minor forward and backward movement as well so there isn't even really any rubbing inteface. I was surprised that it completely stopped vibration from reaching the top and side. Very good dampening.

Spur of the moment, go out and look what is hanging around. Right color, right size, two quick saw cuts to perfect the cosmetics. 2 minutes. Now to order some poylfill.
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post #971 of 1303
7/16/11 at 3:15am
Good stuff! Before I get bashed I better specify that its the same shipping material that our subs came with. The pieces the sub feet were in, not typical styrofoam. The benefit with your solution is that there's no need to paint the pieces.
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post #972 of 1303
7/16/11 at 11:22am
Definitely the color is a match and it is all the way through.. so no painting. The density of the cell foam is probably half of the packaging material. I never looked at the cell foam packaging materials, not only is the foam on the pipe insulation a good bit softer the the round profile of the tube with the open center makes it much more of a soft spring than the packaging foam.


However its done, its all good. Why not use budget solutions for a budget sub? The sub and its home made 'subdude" are the only budget pieces of my theater.

The rest is at least mid-fi. Denon AVR 2112ci, PSB Imagine T65s Fronts, T40s sides , with the Imagine B25 for back surrounds. I use and Iscan DUO for VP and CMS duties and display with an 82" DLP. I use a very well sorted out HTPC with Ceton Cable tuner and jRiver Media Center.... won't go into the HTPC to deep but I have spent a zillion hours on it.It produces an excellent image.

I am not sure I will keep the PL-200 in the above rig. I will stuff some poly fill in there and then decide if I want to match it with another PL-200 or if it goes in another room. This room is 23x18 so it is a fairly big space to fill and the room itself is kind of music unfriendly.

I have some hi end esoteric stuff around but I can't see using it unless I was doing a two channel audio setup and that doesn't fit my life style, or at least not in my main room. I have a very special two channel amp that has some proprietary technology in it, that my uncle patented. He had dozens of patents. It sound spectacular.. actually an amazing piece, I could have probably got another but by the time you pre-amp them you are causing a brown out in your neighborhood.
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post #973 of 1303
7/20/11 at 5:42am
For those considering a BIC PL-200, you can get one for $250 from Acoustic Sound Design if you call and mention "Christmas in July."

Ordered one and anxiously awaiting its arrival and going to pair with Jamo S606 set. Pictures and impressions to follow. Upgrading from Take Classic 5.1 set.
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post #974 of 1303
7/21/11 at 4:20pm
On the sub crossover switch is it out or in when using an RCA cable?
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post #975 of 1303
7/21/11 at 4:33pm
Switch it to out when using an rca cable. Out means outboard preamp.
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post #976 of 1303
7/21/11 at 4:53pm
Actually, Out means crossover is controlled by AVR, i.e., the crossover will be handled by my AVR so please disable the internal crossover.

At least that is my understanding.
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post #977 of 1303
7/23/11 at 4:49pm
I am about to pull the trigger on the BIC PL-200. I was going to get the Polk PSW505 but after much research, it appears that the PL-200 is a far better sub, especially considering only a $80 price difference between the two.

Any last minute suggestions or should I drop the $280 for the PL-200 and call it a day???
Being that the PL-200 is NOT magnetically shielded, it shouldn't affect my DLP, right?
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post #978 of 1303
7/28/11 at 11:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lbear View Post

I am about to pull the trigger on the BIC PL-200. I was going to get the Polk PSW505 but after much research, it appears that the PL-200 is a far better sub, especially considering only a $80 price difference between the two.

Any last minute suggestions or should I drop the $280 for the PL-200 and call it a day???
Being that the PL-200 is NOT magnetically shielded, it shouldn't affect my DLP, right?

With such $80 difference; get the PL200 is one of the best low budget subs. I have one; and for the price is great!. I have other cheap subs and this PL200 is lot better than my other subs (Polk PSW10, Cerwin Vega 12"). There is no problem that is not magnetically shielded. All you just need is to place the sub at least 2 feet away from your DLP.
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post #979 of 1303
8/5/11 at 6:11pm
Fellas, excited I just ordered two of these. I want to hook both subs up to a Onkyo HTRC-370.

I would need two of these correct?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

And one of these to connect to the receiver in?

http://www.amazon.com/Monster-Ultra-...593814&sr=1-17

Can someone point me in the right direction of a better splitter please?
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post #980 of 1303
8/5/11 at 6:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBigKahuna View Post

Fellas, excited I just ordered two of these. I want to hook both subs up to a Onkyo HTRC-370.

I would need two of these correct?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

And one of these to connect to the receiver in?

http://www.amazon.com/Monster-Ultra-...593814&sr=1-17

Can someone point me in the right direction of a better splitter please?

You would need to connect the splitter to the sub-out on your receiver to split the subs signal, then connect the two sub cables to each sub. I heard that splitter is not that good because it is not flexible at all. If you can accomodate that type of splitter sticking out the back of the receiver then you will be fine.
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post #981 of 1303
8/5/11 at 9:10pm
capricorn thanks.

Can I just use this?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Or would this be better?

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-spl...f=pd_rhf_p_t_4

And does splitting the signal lessen the signal to the two subs?
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post #982 of 1303
8/5/11 at 11:31pm
DaBigKahuna:

you do not need a splitter your onkyo has 2 sub pre outs their both purple in color
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post #983 of 1303
8/6/11 at 6:04am
Thanks for the info. and that being your first post

Quote:
Originally Posted by idkwhattoput View Post

DaBigKahuna:

you do not need a splitter your onkyo has 2 sub pre outs their both purple in color
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post #984 of 1303
8/6/11 at 8:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by idkwhattoput View Post

DaBigKahuna:

you do not need a splitter your onkyo has 2 sub pre outs their both purple in color

As mentioned above, you do not need the splitter as the RC-370 has dual sub outs ( purple i do belive as my 808 is). Unless you plan on running quad/trip subs then there is no need. Now, if you are planning on just using one sub cable to two pl's then yes... a splitter will be needed at the subs & not the receiver. Example... I have dual Pl-200 in the back portion of my listening are as they are "stacked" to where I ran only one sub cable about 20ft and then used a splitter as I still had to use a short jumper to the other sub as the splitter was not long enough.
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post #985 of 1303
8/12/11 at 2:52pm
Fellas, just following up. I received the two subs and overall I'm really happy with them.

A couple of questions. I'm running a Onkyo 609 what should I set the crossover frequency on the LFE. Audessey set it at 120. Should it be set to 80 or bypass?

Same question on the gain on the back of the sub what should I set that at?

Lastly one of the subs I have to move the dial on the back up about 3/4 of a section to match the power on the other sub, weird? Anyone experience that?
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post #986 of 1303
8/13/11 at 2:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBigKahuna View Post

Fellas, just following up. I received the two subs and overall I'm really happy with them.

A couple of questions. I'm running a Onkyo 609 what should I set the crossover frequency on the LFE. Audessey set it at 120. Should it be set to 80 or bypass?

Same question on the gain on the back of the sub what should I set that at?

Lastly one of the subs I have to move the dial on the back up about 3/4 of a section to match the power on the other sub, weird? Anyone experience that?

First of all do the sub crawl if you haven't already. There are lots of articles on how to do it and you'll need to also read up on how to properly place two subs.

Since the 609 only has Audyssey 2EQ it won't help EQ your subs. Your best bet is to get your hands on a SPL meter and set both subs one at a time to as close to 75db as you can from your primary listening position. The subs will be at different volume levels on the subs amp to compensate for room acoustics, and such. This is where a SPL meter is very handy. Then hook them both up and run the Audyssey setup again.

Let Audyssey set the crossover to 120hz. Setting it to a lower value won't make any difference.

Be sure to post back with your results.
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post #987 of 1303
8/17/11 at 4:36pm
Are they still accepting offers of $279 on their ebay store/website? I am interested in buying one of these.
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post #988 of 1303
8/17/11 at 4:58pm
Not sure about Ebay but you can try it! Otherwise look into these links...

Mike
http://www.acousticsounddesign.com/b...dex.cfm?bid=67

or Eric
www.sounddistributors.com
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post #989 of 1303
8/17/11 at 5:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by skally View Post

Not sure about Ebay but you can try it! Otherwise look into these links...

Mike
http://www.acousticsounddesign.com/b...dex.cfm?bid=67

or Eric
www.sounddistributors.com

Thanks, I'll try ebay and see what happens. I'm hoping to buy one fairly soon.

I was wondering, for whoever can answer, how the BIC-PL200 compares to the Premier Acoustic PA-120?
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post #990 of 1303
8/17/11 at 5:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkeye101 View Post

Thanks, I'll try ebay and see what happens. I'm hoping to buy one fairly soon.

I was wondering, for whoever can answer, how the BIC-PL200 compares to the Premier Acoustic PA-120?

Both companies have an ebay store front with the make your own offer. They are owned by the same people, just a different way for people to access it.
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