RS-MaxxMudd Mix (the official)

Saved for painting Instructions on various Substrates

Saved for Photographic examples #1

Saved for Photographic examples #2

Saved for Photographic examples #3

PB.....,

If you want me to remove...or reinsert any of the above just PM me and let me know.

Nice to see this mix updated and documented - looking forward to the pics.

Thanks Pete!

Garry

Here is a great supplemental thread on RS-MaxxMudd

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=713810

PB
Do you or others have any plans to repeat the tests with the new and improved mixes? The testing protocol used in the BW testing was much more refined and would be a good model to follow. I would be willing to help in any way possible.

I don't know maybe you already have this done in the photos you plan on posting in the above reserved posts.

I currently have "Behr UPW Exterior Flat" screen. If I want to use this MUDD mixture in future, can I apply it directly over my current screen?

Absolutely so. One of it's main advantages is that it's designed to use a White base coat to help maintain gain and the quality of white reproduction.

For a 24" x 48" test panel, does this mix have to be sprayed, or can it be rolled?

Kbgl
Yes I do believe this paint has to be sprayed in order to make any testing valid. The original method of doing it allowed rolling but as of late I think all metallic paints need to be sprayed, at least sprayed if any testing is to be done.

So I need some help today.
Sprayed the RS-MaxxMuddd over 2 coats Killz2 which was over my silverscreen w/poly top coat painted drywall screen.
First coat went great! Wagner is incredibly easy to use!
Second and third coats? Hard to say..
Across the top right I seem to have a stripe of slightly darker gray. Like a slight shadow. I also have a spot in the top middle where I know I sprayed it heavier. I did this last night and it's still slightly visible this morning. Could it still be drying/curing?
When PJ is on, darker spots are barely there but I still see them.
What do I do??
I can say between the 3 coats I didn't use much paint. Filled the smaller jug of the Wagner about 2/3 full and used maybe half of that.
Do I need more, heavier coats all over to match the darker areas? Do I leave alone? Do I sand, prime, and start over??
Feeling very anxious this AM about how to fix this... Now I have to sit at work all day and think about it

A side note, the Wagner really is great and I wouldn't want to dissuade anyone else from giving it a try. Even as a complete novice I got mostly excellent results. Just being a perfectionist. Oh yeah, and the color really pops with this mix!

lightly sand just the darker areas or the whole screen?
Overall screen has a somewhat "powdery" feeling texture. very interesting.

will do. sorry if this is a stupid question but what do u mean by "brush" sand? Just a light sanding with sand paper?

got it. thanks again

Hmmmm...., that tells me your paint is coming from too far away, or your moving too fast, except when you slowed down and put more (the correct) amount of paint up. The "Darker" areas are more coverage, the lighter areas weaker coatings. A well done sprayed screen should have a somewhat slippery feel to it, yet maintain a lack of sheen, looking more "Flat" than "Satin".

The direct opposite thinking involves dusting a "glossy' surface to lessen the surface reflectivity by introducing the slight, powdery" texture you have.

I stand behind 12" distance and 1' per second across the surface with 605 overlap.

//////////////////////////////////////

Sanding down the situation;

Use a "Sanding Sponge" if possible. Sand paper on a "block" is pretty unforgiving, and limited to the size sheet and block used.

Norton makes a 3" x 10" x 1" Sponge that is easy to grip, won't tear or wrinkle, and spreads your sanding pressure out across a much larger footprint.

Look for it at Home Deopt. The lest expensive is the "Re-Fill" whereas the Handle/Sponge combo is $10.00, and you should NOT use the handle assembly anyway.

Myself, I'd be trying to "equalize" the darker areas with "
Feathering" technique and then re-coating the entire surface equally afterward.

But that's me...and I've done it a good many times.

Sanding down enough across the entire Board is correct, but in contrast to what PB said, focusing for a "brief" spell first on overtly heavy spots that have a different sheen than the rest of the screen isn't bad advice either. You don't do much of it, and you don't transgress onto the surrounding area, but if you do it right, when you sand the entire screen, those areas have already fallen back toward the correctly sprayed areas, and the remaining sanding is simply blending in sanded and non-sanded areas.

Of course as I stated above, it may well be a case where the spots you need to sand are correctly covered, and the surrounding areas are the spots that are incorrect. Different problem....same solution however.

Next time, don't slow or hesitate in the middle of a Row (makes for a darker looking but brighter reflecting spot) And increase your speed across the surface a bit to avoid "striping". It's best-er to "dust" and have to apply 4-5 coats to cover than to have to deal with excessive paint in an area with Feathering or sanding, or both.

And last...often the Top Row or Bottom Row gets too much paint because your trying to make sure your getting a good lay down from the Gun along a edge as you start/as you finish. Check your spray pattern's size and position BEFORE you move onto the Screen's surface, then proceed with a even, measured pace...one fast enough to eliminate much variance of motion, but slow enough to be able to see what is happening before you.

It's a " getting it down via practice" sort of thing....and those who practice even a little seldom have the issues your facing. Some do....but very few

That's kind of what I'm thinking I'll try first. Maybe blending the darker areas a bit and trying to cover a little heavier all over with the next coat. I think I'm standing at a good distance per your instructions, but maybe going to fast.

I would imagine that if I put enough coats on things would equalize pretty well eventually. I think that's the main point both of you have helped me realize today.

Agree??

Feathering in a weak spot starts with the Gun at right angle to the Screen and you sweep the spray pattern into/across the edge of the area then exit the other side with a similar motion where you start twisting the gun outwards away for the screen exactly when you cross into the far edge.

Starting at the screen's edge and going across, if it's a smaller, heavier spot in the middle you need to blend into, you simply Feather out when you reach it, and back in after is passes under you Gun.


Only in as much as it would solve the "unevenness" situation, but excessive coats of latex paint...even with Poly and water added...will eventually build up texture, which is not a good thing....and totally negate any beneficial effect having a White Base might offer. Spraying should be all about being able to get exactly the right amount of paint onto the surface for a given purpose. No more...and no less.

If you think you can equalize the screen's appearance with Feathering in weak areas, then do so, but be advised that a total screen sanding as suggested should then be performed when the screen is dry, and "THEN" you apply two, thin but even coats using the impeccable spray technique you've developed.



That's the way to do it...not dump enough paint onto the screen to cover up poorly done areas.

SUCCESS

Did a bit of feathering just to even out then 2 much heavier coats.
Nice smooth even finish now. Could probably do 1 more coat if I reeeeally wanted to be picky but I'm calling it good.

Very happy with results. Wife even commented on the vibrance of the colors and that it looked almost "3-D"

thanks again guys!

Well then....,

That's a "Feather" in both our caps.

Your's is "Ostrich" sized though....

OK....now comes the Screenies!


That "vibrancy" that is retained...even enhanced, while assisting the appearance of having deeper blacks and a wider contrast than would seem possible for a Gray surface is exactly what sets RS-MaxxxMudd & Silver Fire apart from similar mixes.

Did Rabbi7 do the RS-MaxxMudd (for moderate ambient light) or RS-MaxxMudd LL(for lower lumen PJ's, and for completely controlled lighting) or the original mix?

I think he said his old surface was silverscreen w/poly top coat.

yes, I did the RS-MaxxMudd listed at top of thread. Debated about using LL but went with the moderate ambient.
And yes, originally I had painted with Silverscreen w/poly top coat.
I had tried the "original" RSMM formula a while back, but couldn't obtain good results rolling. After a couple of tries, even with advice, it just wasn't perfect.
I opted to go the easier route at that time, but have missed the improved visuals I had briefly seen with the RSMM.
Thought it was time to give it another go and the sprayer made things quite easy overall.
Much easier than trying the roller methods and with much better results

Brian thanks for the quick answer. Just from what you remember was the Silverscreen w/poly top coat a darker shade of gray than what the RS-MaxxMudd looked like? or lighter or about the same?

Was there a big calibration change when you went with the RS-MaxxMudd?

I'm with MM we would love to see some screen shots if you have a means of doing such.

I also didn't catch what screen size you have or projector if you wish to share that info?