RS-MaxxMudd Mix (the official) - Page 5

A friendly bump, and a little 'retro' eye candy...
160"x90" with all the lights on, and still something to see.

Wagner with 7 duster coats -- enjoy.

I'm sure that the responses to these questions have already been posted somewhere, but I couldn't find it.

-- Once mixed, can the paint be kept for a few days? (I'm guessing it'll have to be re-mixed.) Any particular way to store it?

-- If I mix all the recommended volumes, it'll put together quite a bit of paint. How much of it do you actually use for a 120" screen?

I'd like to train myself over the weekend with the paint and sprayer, but I will only receive my substrate next week. That explains the above questions...

Thanks.

Ben

In a new, clean 1 Gallon Can w/Lid, preferably a Can that is lined with Teflon (...the Cans @ Home Depot are an example...)

Dude...I've kept RS-MaxxMudd and Silver Fire mixes in a closed Can for month. Stir and shoot (...after straining...) The Poly and acrylics combine to make a very good paint. The Water will separate, but it re-mixes right back in.


Almost 1/2 Gallon. If any screen takes a person more than 1 quart to paint, then it's virtually the same cost to whip up a Gallon. Quarts cost 3x more proportionately than Gallons..


Good luck....we'll be hearing from you again soon enough.

First off I want to say thanks to everyone that helps us newbies out on here!
I just have a few quick questions. Instead of using Ultra High Gloss white as the base would it be okay to put a top coat of polycrylic gloss on top of a coat of semi-gloss white? Or would I be okay to just use the semi-gloss white? The reason I ask is because I have about 4 quarts of the poly and it would save me about 40 minutes of driving each way to pick up a gallon of paint. I don't like taking shortcuts so will go pick up the paint if need be. Not sure if this helps with my question but I'm not using a mirror for my surface. I hung some new drywall in the basement, taped, and finished the joints. (I spent a week on two joints to make sure they turned out smooth! ) As of now it looks like one piece even looking up close with a light.

Another question is I plan on using the RS-MaxxMudd LL. My projector only puts out 800 lumens but lighting is completely controlled being that it is in the basement with no windows in the room. Is this the formula you all would recommend?

I already have one coat of sheetrock first coat on along with 2 coats of kilz primer. My next step is the base coat of white paint. Everything is being sprayed.

If anyone has any other pointers I'd appreciate any comments.

Thanks for the help!!

If the Semi-Gloss painted" surface is looking that perfect, with no blemishes, then here an answer you'll like; "Use the Semi-Gloss surface as is."

I would. The use of any Poly top coating is redundant.

Hey? Wait a minute! That Poly you have? Is it Gloss or Semi-Gloss? If either...I hope that is NOT what you got for the Rs-MaxxMudd mix! The formula calls for "Satin" Water Based. You might'n hafta make that motorcar trip afte all if such is the case.


Oh...I thought your wall already had the Semi-Gloss paint on it. Same answer though. Just do a good job practicing spraying using the thinned Semi-Gloss paint...get a smooth finish, then go at it with the RS-MMudd LL


Fast service.....(just woke up....)

Always welcome though!

Thanks for the quick reply!!

I do have the satin poly for the mixture. My wife did get that part of the shopping list right as well as everything else for the topcoat. She just picked up a gallon of semi-gloss white instead of the ultra high gloss. I had to bite my lip since she did do a better job at picking stuff up than I thought she would! I already had some of the poly gloss at the house.

I thought I read that the ultra high gloss was mainly for those of us not using a mirror as a backing to help the colors bounce back? That's why I was asking about the poly gloss on top of the white semi-gloss base coat. I meant to ask also if I could mix the gloss poly in with the semi-gloss white to turn it into a gloss? Not sure if that is recommended in any situation and searching the net gave me conflicting advice. But from reading many of your posts I trust anything you have to offer!

I've got the compressor, air lines and hvlp gun set up and ready to go for tomorrow morning. I have to make sure I get the first coat on before my Bears play! Not sure if it's one they can pull off but who knows with them. They can beat the best team in the league one weekend and lose to the worst the next.

Are two base coats enough as long as it looks like it has good coverage? I'll do more if I need to. I want to get it done right the first time!

Thanks again for the help and speedy reply. (Next time I won't throw rocks at your window to wake you up!) I'd still be using the smaller blackout cloth if it weren't for you!! I want to get a bigger screen up so I can cheer the Bears on to victory in the Super Bowl!! (wishful thinking!!)

Brian

Brian,

When using a Mirror or Highly reflective white surface, what happens is that to take fullest effect, you have to get the amount of paint very precisely thin...yet covering the Gloss so as not to allow too much additional reflection.

A Mirror was something unique that allowed for both depth and enhanced contrast in a very light Gray/Silvery surface. Nowadays, if I use 'em, it's because I'm throwing up a much Darker, metallic Gray, applying it only "just thin enough", and it's there more to boost Foot Lamberts and brighten whites than any other reason.

Ditto for anything "Glossy". I often use Thrifty White Hardboard, a semi-Glossy White Laminated Melamine surface. Actually, I use that more because the surface is ultra smooth like Glass, very White...and extremely affordable. Not nearly so much because the underlying "Gloss White" after painting is what's desired. Any Bright White surface that is pristine and unblemished is fine for lighter shades of Gray.

Once again, thanks for the speedy reply!! You have no idea how much more relaxed I am now about painting this screen!

I do have one more question if you don't mind. You said, "Any Bright White surface that is pristine and unblemished is fine for lighter shades of Gray." If this is the case, would I be okay to skip the semi-glass paint and just paint the top coat on top of what I have now since I am doing the LL? These are the steps I have done so far. On bare drywall applied two coats of "sheetrock first coat". This doesn't seal it but is suppose to help cover up any blemishes if there are any. (I need to correct a statement I made above first. I said everything is being sprayed. When I meant everything, I meant the semi-gloss base coat and then the topcoat.) The "sheetrock first coat" was way too thick so it was rolled on and then sanded with 400 grit sandpaper in between. I then applied two coats of Kilz oil based primer which was also sanded in between with the 400 grit paper. I also opted to roll this on hoping for thicker coverage because I knew I was going to sand it smooth.
So I guess the main question is..... Would two coats of Kilz oil based primer be adequate enough for my base or should I proceed with spraying on the semi-gloss white? I don't mind taking the time to spray it as I want it done right but if it won't improve the quality of the screen I guess there's no point in putting the work into it. I don't want to take shortcuts though if there aren't any shortcuts that should be taken.
What do you recommend? Call it good with the Kilz oil base primer or spray on a few coats of semi-gloss?

Thanks again! You are Da Man!
Hope you had a wonderful holiday weekend!

If your surface meets the needed criteria, ab-sew lootly.


Oil Based Primer does tend to set up "tighter" than water based. It really all is determined by how well the finish sanded out.

Sometimes you cannot tell / see any issues until you start applying a "contrast-enhancing" paint. Then..."Whoop, der dey are!"

If they do rear their ugly heads, don't try to "cover" them. Stop, repair/fix, then Re-prime. It's always worth the extra time and trouble if in the end you get near to or actual perfection in a surface finish.


Had a Bad Cold. Ate too much. Drank even more "too much". Got to fly first Class both ways. Visited Family and a AVS Friend.

All in all enough to be thankful for......in spades.

Never minding that damn cold. .

Glad to hear you had a good weekend, minus the cold. Isn't Thanksgiving all about eating too much? If I didn't feel miserable after eating I wouldn't know what to think!
When you say oil based primer tends to set up "tighter", is that a bad thing? If so should I go with a latex primer? I do have a gallon can of that so it's not an issue.

Thanks!

Brian

Tight is right. It means denser...less porous....more reflective.

But it is stinkier...and you really want it to be completely dry before you apply a Water Based latex to it.

The whole story? Oil Based Primer for True Oil Based Enamels is a must. It's a superior Primer, but has odor, clean-up issues.

Water based primers don't "seal" or Dry quite the same, but they are easy to use, and of course go well with Water Based latex.

A Oil Base, adequately dried and finished smooth, is better than a dustier, Water Based application.

I just got done spraying the first coat of the RS-MaxxMudd LL. I'm using my hvlp gun with my compressor. Although it's doing a great job on spraying a very fine coat the spray pattern is very small no matter how I adjust it. I was kinda worried about this due to the 1.5mm tip. I'm just wondering how many coats I'll have to end up putting on it? So far I probably used a little over half of the spray cup so about 12 ounces on the first coat. It seems to look okay for the first coat but worried about it maybe being a tad thicker in some spots. Will that be noticeable? Is even coverage something that is a must? I'm thinking if I continue going with this gun I'm looking at about 5 coats. I'm not worried about how many coats I have to do or whether or not I will cover everything. I'm worried about making the the very narrow passes with enough overlap in order to put on an even coat.

I have another spray gun I'm considering trying but it's still in the box. It's a general purpose, siphon gun with a 1.7mm tip. I know the finish won't be as fine as my hvlp but know it will still be better than rolling. I am spraying on drywall and although it is pretty flat and smooth it's not mdf or anything. Do you think it I would even notice the difference? I think in the morning I will hook it up and shoot it on an extra sheet of drywall and see how it looks.

Any thoughts on my situation? What you would do without running out and buying the Wagner? Approximately how much paint mixture should I have left remaining? (by the way, as of now I'm just painting the whole wall as the screen and will then trim out the screen. The wall is 8 foot high by 12 foot wide)
Also, the LL mixture looks pretty darn white. I'm sure there is a gray tint to it if compared to white but is this what it's suppose to look like?

Thank you once again!

I'd like to make a frame out of wood and then strech a cloth material over it and paint it rather than use an 8' x 4' sheet of something. I want a screen larger than 96" and I'd rather not have a lot of waste materials left over. Any recommendations for the cloth material?

Also is there any one retail store that sells all of the painting materials? I'd like to use the RS-MaxxMudd mix.

What you see below are the supplies for the

RS-MaxxMudd (for moderate ambient light)
16 oz. Delta Pearl Metallic #02601 (Michaels Arts & Crafts)
12 oz. Delta Silver Metallic #02603 (Michaels Arts & Crafts)
4 oz. Folk Art Champagne Metallic Gold #675 (Michaels Arts & Crafts)
7 oz. Behr UPW Flat 1850 Interior Enamel (Home Depot)
16 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish -Water Based (Home Depot)

and

1 Gallon empty paint can w/ lid (Home Depot)
1 Gallon size Nylon Sock-Style paint strainers (2 per Pkg) (Home Depot)
1 Norton 100 grit sand sponge (Home Depot)

~$60 all said and done after a trip to Home Depot and Michael's

I'm sure this has been answered, but it's tough to filter through all the posts on this mix. If it has, feel free to point me in that direction. Does the Minwax Polycrylic get mixed right in with the paint? Or does it get added on after the fact? If it gets added only after the final coat, would it work to use the spray version? Or does it need to be in the jar like in the picture above this? Still trying to figure everything out, so I appreciate your patience.

EDIT: Looks like it's supposed to be added directly to the mix. Guess I'll be returning my spray. No worries, I'll get it right next time.

can I use Behr UPW interior flat ceiling paint instead of UPW interior flat enamel?

Yes...

MM, I sent you this PM, but since you get a thousand PMs a day, you might have missed it.

I got the HVLP from gleempaint. I've been reading up on RS-MaxxMudd and I'm still a bit confused as to how it goes on. Do I just mix all the ingredients together, strain it, then spray it with the HVLP? I've seen people talk about a flat white base, which makes me think I'm missing a step in there. Does a coat of UPW get sprayed on before the mix?

This is what I've done so far - fixed any imperfections in the wall, 2 coats of Kilz2 primer rolled on with a foam roller. sanded down smooth with a medium grit drywall sponge.

I've seen you mention 12" away and spray at a rate of 1' per second with a 60% overlap. Is that still the preferred method?
How many coats should I put on?

I combine the Poly / UPW / Water, then add in the Silver & Pearlescense each while constantly power stirring at low speed. The UPW is pretty thick "out of the Can" so using the Poly and Water to thin it first, then combining the relatively thick Metallic-s each in turn into a somewhat diluted "Base" medium, usually means you do a pretty good job of getting everything mixed evenly.

But do not power stir fast enough that you interject excessive air. Your stirring until everything is "mixed" evenly, not "Whipping" until everything is blended.


The use of a White Base is to assure that any light absorbed into the paint gets reclaimed to at least some extent. A White Base is better than a Tan or Yellow, or Blue, or almost any color in that respect.

Some while back, when PJs had hopefully 1000:1 Dynamic Contrast, but no real Lumen Horsepower, early Neutral White Screen paint solutions tried Dark Gray or Black Bases, with just enough White applied on the surface to reflect more light than was absorbed. These were screens that attenuated darker projected light even more so, while trying to maintain decent whites. Most "High Power" type screens with gains over 2.0 all have such a "Black Backing" directly behind the reflective layer.

It boils down to if a paint can "cover" and do it all, that would be cool. But the facts are, without the noticeable difference "translucency w/Light Recovery" makes, images produce on a flat reflective surface will always look......well, flatter.

So you do want a White Base. Kilz well applied and sanded smooth is perfectly acceptable. The sprayed coatings go on with 2 Dusters (14" x 3' per sec.)



Myself, I'd now thin the Kilz and use the result to practice with, applying at least two dusters and two normal coats, at the speed and distance/overlap you mention above. If your two heavier sprayed Primer coats go on right,(...not really heavy mind you....just "heavier than a Duster" coat...) the surface should feel very smooth after it dries. And do let it dry. Overnight if possible.

Kilz and RS-MaxxMudd differ as to how much additional water is needed to thin beyond the initial amount listed. RS-MaxxMudd will be less. The end goal no matter what paint is used that one mixes it to the point where the low viscosity allows it to drain through a Nylon Sock Filter without pooling, while a slow but steady pour is introduced. It looks like tomato soup. A thick soup. But NOT Potato Soup.

I'm planning on rolling the RS-MaxxMudd LL, let me know if it's a good match for my projector and needs.

I'm using a Sharp DT-510 and will be projecting a 110-120 inch screen, it will mainly be used for movies at night. I might do some gaming in the day (the room is painted in warm earth tones, white ceiling, curtains), but that's rare. How exactly is the LL version different from the rest?

Is there any other mixes I should consider? I'm coming from a do-able board which I loved, but it maxes out at 100inches and I want bigger. Thanks

RS-MMudd LL is a good choice. The 510 is bright, it's DLP, and if you must Roll, the choice you've made is the best one for the circumstances.

Hi guys,

I am looking for some educated advice regarding which type (among the RS-MaxxMudd, SilverFire, or Light Fusion variant of either) DIY screen to go with when I upgrade my screen. I guess I am looking for some input from MississippiMan, pb_maxxx, and tiddler in particular as they seem to have the most practice and experience with these mixes.

I currently have an 85 16:9 goo-systems Ultra High Contrast (it was called Ultra Grey when I painted it, which they tell me is .8 to .9 gain) and Mitsubishi HC4900 that have served me well. Of late I have begun to crave better blacks, contrast, and ambient light rejection (i. e. take more light before it looks washed out)as well as a screen with less texture (which I think may be robbing some detail from the image). This is in my living room, serving as my theater and TV when I am sitting down and really watching. It is on the east wall with the right edge of the screen 4 ft. from the south wall. There is a 7ft x 5ft. window on the south wall that begins 5 ft. from the east (screen) wall. I can darken the room pretty effectively if I pull the shades, but I prefer not to go all cave mode just to watch a game in the afternoon.

For that reason I got really hyped up when I read about the BDII screens and what they are supposed to look like in some ambient light, although the price is prohibitive (unless I happen to be three sheets to the wind). Then I got excited again when I began to read about the aforementioned paint mixes and the implications that they can approach BDII performance. I've also had a desire to go to a 2.4:1 screen for a while because I want the Cinemascope films to have greater impact than the 16:9 or 1.85:1 films.

According to the Projector Central review from a couple of years ago, my projector should be doing about 400 Lumens when properly calibrated for video performance (which I have with Spears & Munsil). It is rated at 7500:1 contrast ratio, although they said it was VERY close to the Sanyo Z2000 (rated at 15,000:1) in the real world comparison.

Given all that, my goal is a 96 wide 2.2 to 2.4:1 screen, with the projector about as close as it can be and still produce the 96 wide image(to minimize lost lumens from zooming in). But I cannot figure out from my reading of all the respective threads which of the various mixes would serve me the best. I SUSPECT that I need to go with the RS-MaxxMudd retro (1.4 gain), but am not sure. Nor have I been able to decipher whether I should be using a bright white substrate (like the TWH) or the acrylic mirror I read about for the Light Fusion screens.

So guys, what do you think?

Hey! I gotta life elsewhere too!



SF 3.0 on a mirrored substrate would be ideal....otherwise on top of Thrifty White.

As PB suggested, optimize your lumen output by mounting the PJ as close as possible within the available Throw distance. Don't go closer than 5" -8" to the closest point though.

Ok, SF it is.

Some additional questions.

I gather the reasons for SF lie with it being an inherently darker mix that retains gain and neutrality?

Do detailed instructions regarding the mixing, and application of the mix lie somewhere in the SilverFire thread? Is this a spray only mix?

Be aware that I have NEVER sprayed, and the extent of my mixing lies with adding water to the GOO to make it easier to roll without streaks. I've noticed on a few posts MississippiMan referring to some arcane (to me) spray and rolling technique terms with which i am unfamiliar, thus my need for the aforementioned basic instruction. If there is a link or site with the necessary information, just point and I will go.

I gather the TWH can be found at Home Depot. What about the acrylic mirror? What are the advantages/disadvantages of the mirror with regard to the TWH?

Are all the paint components available at either Home Depot or the online retailer Dick Blicks?

I appreciate the help. I understand the concern about the lumens at my disposal, but based on your comparison of the relative performance of the SF and my current screen (+plus the level of satisfaction I currently have) it looks like it will be all good. Bear in mind that I will not be going appreciably bigger (if at all) with a 16:9 image than I have now, and would only be moving out to the 96" 2.4 size when the room is quite dark. I may even put my old P752 Panamorph in front of it if I get the right Blu-Ray player, or Sony adds the necessary scaling to the PS3 (a long shot, I admit). Even if it turns out that I build a little more screen than I can use right now, I can always mask it off until I have something brighter. Waiting (despite mouth watering Panasonic and Epson projectors) on an affordable 3D projector before I upgrade.

With regard to throw distance MississippiMan, I take it you meant find the minimum throw distance for my image size, than back up 5 to 8 inches? If so, is that to address hot spotting?

Thanks

Oops, my bad. I just saw the comment at the top of the SF thread that stated all components available at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, etc.

I also just noticed that I missed a question. How much screen will the batch described at the beginning of the SF thread produce?

you're going to have trouble finding the matt basics at michaels but give it a shot. dont confuse it with the NORMAL "basics" paint which they will most likely have. the polycrilic and behr UPW paint you will need to get at HD. Behr wont be at michaels, and hte polycrilic will be cheaper at HD

You can get probably a 120" 16:9 screen out of one batch easily so with your screen size, you will have more than enough!

Last thing: START YOUR OWN SCREEN THREAD. it's FREE!! haha, and you will get more traction and better answers (given you are talking about SilverFire in the MaxxMudd thread as we speak)

Hi ,

Can someone help me. Hope Depot dose not carry Metalic paint anymore. Not sure where to get Meatalic paint for the RS-MaxxMudd. Any one has any idea ?

Look right to the post above....here's a direct link.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post19569840

PB....why does the ingredient listing on the 1st page not contain the sources?

Also, the Delta Silver Metallic has now been replaced by the Liquitex "Silver". This is a "Artist Paint" that comes in a Tube and is found in the "Art Supplies" section, not in the "Craft Paints" section where the Delta paints (Pearl Finish) is found. Please update the 1st page.