The "Official" Canon HFS10 / HFS100 Owner's Thread - Page 4

It's actually Mini HDMI. I got a Rosewill HDMI cable A-M to C-M type 1.3 at Newegg. Basically it's Regular HDMI output on one end and Mini HDMI Input on the other, that way you don't need an adapter.

Scott

I just got the Canon WD-H58 Wide Conversion Lens. Just be aware that it really adds weight to the camera, but that is a good thing if you're filming allot of moving action and can help steady shot. Superb optics and perfect for shooting landscapes and large gatherings.

I am deciding on what to buy (the s100/s10 versus Sony xr500/520v, looked through a lot of samples and while Canon is usually sharper, the colors are a bit yellowish/brown (cinematic look liked by some), Sony's are more realistic. As I am interested primarily in the outdoor, good light landscape scenery, is there an adjustment on Canon that delivers real outdoor colors (green and blue in particular) that one can set and keep it that way? Will it remain set if one turns the camera off and on? I would hate tweaking the setting every time I turn the camera on.

Re. image stabilization, Sony is touted as superior on these models. However, when testing it myself, it does a good job at reducing wobble when one walks and records, for example. When trying to steady a zoomed-in shot from a free hand still position (without a tripod), I find it no better than the older models. How do you find Canon in this regard?

Thank you in advance.

Is it possible to transfer video clips and/or photos from the HF-S100 to the PC (XP Home) without using the Pixela Transfer Utilities? I just connected the camcorder to my PC, the task bar shows new device found (HF-S100), but that's it. I don't see the camera listed as an external device under My Computer. I then installed the Pixela Disc 1, connected the camcorder again. Nothing happens. On the cam's LCD, it shows:

"Do not disconnect the USB cable or the power source while the camcorder is connected to a computer. Cannot turn off the camcorder or change the operating mode."

Thanks,



Update: After waiting a while, I was able to transfer all the photos with Pixela, but not the video clips. I finally gave up and just took out the memory card and transfer everything by using a card reader. The Pixela apps blow.

I was deciding on getting either the Sony 520v or the Canon HFS10 but after testing it at a local Best Buy, I decided to get the Canon. The picture looked sharper to me. The Sony had a motion blur. The only con on the Canon is video noise when shooting certain dark/night scenes. However, the noise can be controlled by using Cine mode or TV mode (shutter-priority ae). On the TV mode, I just adjust the shutter until the noise disappears. Mine's set to 1/100 right now. Plus, I liked the controls on the Canon and the quick response.

KISS Pixela.
Keep it simple and stable !

Yes the Pixela titling is poor, there are not too many transitions and the audio mixing is very rudimentary.

However, it is pretty good at cropping and splicing together .m2ts clips and producing top quality video.

Just read some of the recent threads on the bugginess of the editors that you have to pay for....

Keep your clips less than a few minutes and its pretty easy to use.

The video editing window will be a little choppy but you can get your cues from the audio pretty accurately (if your clips are not too long !).

What's really nice is getting it to fill up a DVD-R with 35 minutes of FXP-AVCHD 17Mbps and it takes less than 35 minutes to create and burn !

Thank you Francis. I think I will go with the sharp picture and less motion artifacts (due to 24Mbps probably) also, and have to learn how to live without a viewfinder, remote control and better stabilization that Sony offers. It would be nice if there was a camera in this price range that would have it all. Unfortunately, from what I read Panasonic is not meeting the expectations.
I think Canon hobbled the camera on purpose, so it would not compete with their more pro line of cameras.

thechiz,

In my opinion I wouldn't buy Canon's top of the line consumer camcorder paying full $1300 retail price and then using Canon Pixela to edit. I wouldn't use an amateur program like Pinnacle Studio or Ulead Video maker let alone Pixela if I were paying this much either.

It would almost be classier if Canon didn't include the video editing capability all together and just had the transfer utility. Why make something at all if it's going to be that cheesy, it doesn't help Canon's name. It's like buying a Ferrari with a Toyota Corolla engine. If you bought this camera then you're probably serious about video and you should be editing with either FCP or Adobe Premiere CS4 (maybe Vegas Pro too) in my opinion. Otherwise I'd suggest going with a $350 - $500 camcorder if you're new to this and want to use Canon Pixela or Pinnacle Studio.

Just my opinion.

If you plan on doing much moving and point-and-shooting, I'd suggest the Sony. If you plan on being steady, take your time or using a tripod often, go with the Canon.
In my eye's, Canon's sharpness is great but the noise bothers me. Even in outdoors good lighting, the dark/shadows shows the noise. There are the manual controls on the s10/100 that help. If you don't mind adjusting to get the image, then the canon is a good choice.


example of walking and filming:
canon - http://av.watch.impress.co.jp/docs//...04/ezst_ca.mpg
sony - http://av.watch.impress.co.jp/docs//...04/ezst_so.mpg

Just picked up my camera this weekend, the HFS10 love it so far. To answer this question Windows 7 natively plays the files in XP you can use VLC player. The files produced are MTS (AVCHD video)

I couldn't find the UV filter for my HF-S100 at B&H photo, is it hidden there somewhere?

Thanks,

I just typed "uv filter" in the search box, clicked GO, then clicked on "Canon" in the refinement box on the left, then scrolled down to the 58mm filter.

Thanks, just placed the order.

I got the HF S100 today. That 25Mb/s picture is spectacular on my 82 inch display.

I found that the USB transfer is ridiculously non-responsive when browsing the directory structure via the included USB cable. Literally a couple minutes between clicking on the folder and seeing its contents. Sort of annoying when the stream folder is 3 layers down. The actual file transfer is quite quick (1GB in 3 minutes.)

I followed the directions to install the software first before connecting the camera. Also have poked around with the USB entries in the registry and did a complete uninstall/reinstall of all the software. The camera service is running ok. I'm at a loss as to why it is so slow.

When charging, the red blinky (once a second) light never turns out, even when the camera says the battery is fully charged if you press the status button. Does the red light stop blinking for everybody else? It seems to charge ok, nothing gets too hot. The book says if the light blinks fast there is a fault with the battery or ac adapter. I'm not sure if this is fast or not.

Also, Canon's ZoomBrowser EX 6.2 cannot locate the camera to download photos. If I go to Start, Control Panel, Scanners and Cameras the camera does not appear.

Comments or ideas before I tackle the maze that is Canon's tech support?

Hey there - I currently have an HF10 that I'm happy with. However, I tend to upgrade video cameras frequently, so I'm trying to determine if the HFS10 is worth the upgrade from the HF10?

I can't find much comparitive information on the two, other than the specs (which don't really tell me much).

I know I'd get a higher bitrate, and a larger CMOS, but I don't know if that results in a better video quality, in reality, or not?

If I'd end up with a noticably better video quality, I'd buy it. We generally watch our home movies in my HT (on my large projection screen).

If anyone can let me know what they think - I'd appreciate it!

Thanks in advance!

In regards to quality comparisons between the HF10 and the HF S10, I've been wondering this same thing.

Larry,

The difference in recording resolution is quite large enough for it to be noticeable. Search for clips recoded on the HF10 and then clips recorded on the HFS10 and you should notice a big difference. Yes a larger CMOS would capture more information so technically it would be a better picture. These are not marketing gimicks but real world results. In terms of the overall improvement the picture quality of the HF S10 should be at least three times better than the HF 10.

Also storage capacitiy alone is another reason for the upgrade. The CANON HF S10 only has 16 GB internal memory while the HF S10 has 32 GB. I know some people use the memory cards, but using the built in memory should be faster and also allow for slightly longer recording time on the battery.

Hi I asked this question in another forum figuring both HF 10 and HF S10 would have the same feature but in case it doesn't I'm trying to find where you can find the recording information, shutter speed, frame rate etc. I know the Pixel software shows you under Information the frame rate but it shows playback framerate and I'm looking for the frame rate that I recorded footage at for easy reference.

What about low-light performance? Based on the specs, it looks like the HF S10 has a higher minimum lumen requirement than the HF10? But I might be misreading that.

If anyone is interested, I posted up a 7 minute video from my HFS10 on YouTube of in-car footage from a Ferrari Enzo on the track this past weekend. It's a BIG clip so let it buffer if you are watching in HD. I used the Filmtools Gripper suction mount on the interior rear glass of the Enzo to mount the camera. Clearly, I need a wide angle lense...

BTW, there seems to be a few seconds where the color is off...this was the Adobe ProcAmp plugin trying to do very quick color correction and I guess it couldn't keep up lol.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvivA3pUVvg

I bought the HF S100 specifically because it doesn't have internal storage. Flash wears out. Better to have it in easily replaceable cards than in chips in my expensive camera.

I have an HF10. I bought an external mono mic for it - the Sony F-V420. When I play back anything using this mic, it only comes out of the left channel. I'm assuming this is because the HF10 records audio in stereo, and this mic is mono, but there's got to be a way to record in mono and/or have it record in both channels. I looked through the manual and played with a few settings, but nothing worked and frankly I didn't see any setting that looks like it would do what I need anyway.

I'm pretty sure it isn't the mic cuz I had the same issue on my laptop when recording to an application there. I found a stereo/mono setting on the application I was recording to and that solved the problem. Can't find anything similar on the HF10.

Any clues? Thanks in advance.

I bought a 1/8" Stereo Plug to 1/8" Mono Plug Adapter at Radio S**** for $2.99.
Accepts a 1/8" mono plug and fits a 1/8" stereo jack.

Or you could always fix it in post.

I got a mono wireless remote lavalier camcorder microphone to use at 2 family weddings (not from RS) Works great.

Thanks for the answer. The adapter is an easy fix.

NewS1Guy,

Flash memory is good for about 100,000 rewrites which is equal to an average of 10 years, but that would be even longer if you use both internal and external memory, perhaps even 20. I'd assume you most likely won't be using this same camera 10 years from now and neither will I, so the flash memory should outlive the camera.

There is a new flash technology coming out that will allow 100 million rewrites that could outlive you. Flash is very durable and unlike moving parts media like hard drives, can withstand accidents and even extreme heat usually.

I'd still take the faster access and longer recording times and convenience of internal memory and not having extra memory cards hanging around over the fact that the internal memory could be defective when the camcorder and perhaps even the flash technology itself is obsolete.

Ab,

I believe that you are correct about the low light performance, but unless you are specifically doing shooting only in low light situations, I don't think that's a reason alone for upgrading. Number one the low light performance while slightly significant isn't a major increase and if you shoot 24P the HF S10 makes up for any low light imperfections in that mode.

I keep reading about how 24p is such a nice feature on this camera. But, I've never been a film guy and don't shoot movies that I want to necessarily look like film. I will be shooting action scenes like sports, dancing, etc. I am planning to use 30p mode. That is the best choice for this, correct? Mainly I want to have the minimum amount of motion trailing and be able to pause at each frame without seeing any interlacing.

That is correct action scenes are usually shot in 30p. Dancing shots could be shot in 30p unless you wanted to create a dramatic movie like effect than 24P would work.

I just shot some baseball scenes in 24P and while it's not the perfect frame rate for capturing motion it added the cinema movie like quality to it adding more drama to the scene, kind of like watching a baseball movie (a baseball movie filmed in 30P would not work). All in all it depends not necessarily what you are shooting but the message that you're trying to convey. If you're just trying to cover a sports event and want the best for movement than 30P would do it.

The problem is this camera turns 24p and 30p into 60i, so it's always sending 60i. That means you need a good video processor in the middle to turn it back into 30p or 24p.

Turning 60i to 30p isn't that hard, although it's still doing the deinterlacing. Turning it into 24p is rough, as you need a reverse telecine process, which even my Anthem D2v doesn't quite have yet.

Anyway, recording in 24p on this camera makes little sense. Recording in 30p probably makes some sense, as the deinterlacing should be cleaner than anything recorded in 60i. I'll do some tests with side-to-side motion and see what my regular TV's do, and what my D2v does, to see if there's a noticable difference. (My D2v does some incredible work on 60i already, so I likely won't see much of a difference on that.)

It would be nice if Canon actually recorded in real 24p and 30p, as anyone using this camera is most likely sending it to a TV that can handle those formats.

24p in a 60i container doesn't look bad. As a matter of fact it looks the same way that you've always watched a movie that was converted to television. It doesn't look like 60i or like videos that were shot on 60i. I"m sure you can notice the difference in the picture when you watch a show shot on video (60i) vs. one shot on film (24 frames) even though they're both playing back at 60i. I prefer 24p, to me 60i is ugly and boring (too realistic). 24P makes things better than they look in reality while 60i just captures boring reality in it's crispest state. You can also do a reverse pulldown removing the 24P using CineForm NeoScene and CoreAVC. I agree it does take a high end workstation. You would only do that if you were going to DVD on a television that supports 24P playback (Most do not), the average person and untrained eyes wouldn't notice the difference between true 24P and 24P in a 60i container. Are we filming for us or our audience?

Finally the Canon does record in true 24P it just plays it back in a 60i container to be compatible with most viewing devices, but the recording is in a true 24 progressive frame format, not a simulated mode.

Scott