Samsung PN**B450 Picture Settings - Page 39

Plug the cable into the HDMI port the TV's instructions say to use for computers.

The computer may have shipped with the sound through the HDMI disabled.

Go into the Device Manager on the computer, and expand the "sound, video and game controllers" line and look for "high definition audio" entries. If they have red X's, right-click on one of them, and select "enable." (If it's a Windows 7 machine, same procedure, but get there via Control Panel --> Hardware and Sound --> Sound --> Manage Audio Devices)

should have said that I already tried this, shows the nvidia hdmi audio is unplugged.

hello,this is my first post,I´m from Brazil,yesterday I bought this tv set,and I´d like some tips on calibration,and what size image to use when watch dvd,about the image burn,does it happen nowadays tv plasma set?
Should I use any special settings to prevent it?
Thanks for your help.

Samsung plasma break-in info : http://samsungplasmafaqs.com/index.p...mage_retention

Thank you stereo55 for your help

Your welcome . Btw , I should have included these direct links earlier about "making" a burn-in/break-in disk .

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=583089

http://www.eaprogramming.com/


Enjoy your tv !

thanks for the link stereo55, i burned the break in DVD and it's running now!

i have the pal version living in australia, ps50b450, will the settings people here in
America use apply equally to PAL panels ?

took them all in motion..just wanted to try out my new cam not the best quality..but a photographer i am not http://img3.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=img0184nq.jpg

Hey guys, I know that I really shouldn't be asking this question in this thread, but because this TV is a bit older now, there aren't that many active threads with people that know about this TV, so I was hoping to ask you guys about it.

About a month ago I sold my Samsung PN50A450 plasma. I loved that plasma, and never had any problems with it. Why did I sell it? Because I was hearing all the stuff about watching the World Cup in 3D, and Playstation 3 in 3D, and 3D Blu Ray, etc, etc. Although my Samsung PN50A450 was advertised as "3D Ready" it really is only 3D ready with devices that output a 1360 x 768 resolution, and use a DLP-like Checkerboard 3D format. Direct TV (ESPN 3D) and the PS3 don't output that resolution, and they don't do checkerboard either, so I decided to sell it, and go buy a brand new 2010 model 3D TV.

Well, to make a long story short, I decided to return the new TV I got, and I wish I had my old PN50A450 back. Unfortunately, they are no longer sold anywhere (at least not brand new), so I can't just go buy another one. I did notice that some places still have the PN50B450 brand new. Amazon.com has them. I was thinking of buying one of these from Amazon.com, but all the talk about "buzzing" has me scared of buying from Amazon, because if I end up with one that buzzes loud, I guess I'd have to ship it back to Amazon and that would be a real PITA.

What do you guys think about the whole buzzing thing? Would you buy this TV from Amazon, knowing you might get a buzzer, and then you'd have to ship it back? Has anybody seen any retail locations selling the old PN50B450? I'm surprised some of these are still floating around in the retail channel. I loved the picture quality on the PN50A450, and I've heard the "B" version is very similar. It also has the 3D emitter input right? This might come in handy down the line if somebody makes some kind of adapter that will convert 1080p frame packed 3D to 1360 x 768 checkerboard.

Up until yesterday, I had both a pn50a450 and a pn42b450. Then I gave away the pn42b450 to a friend (in anticipation of getting a 3d pn58c8000 next week). They are very similar, except my pn42b450 seemed to do a better job with screen graphics (mysterious, if true). I never heard any buzz from either one, but now I worry about getting a buzzer next week (like any other prospective Samsung owner will worry).

Would I buy a Samsung plasma from Amazon? Probably not, but it's academic, since Amazon won't ship big TVs to Hawaii, anyway.

Too bad about the 3d eye fatigue. If that should happen to me, I'm prepared to fall back to 2d with anything I got for this 3d experiment, except for the shutter glasses, which I'd just have to write off.

Why did you decide to return the new tv? Which did you choose? Is there a short version or another post you can link us that explains it? I'm curious. Thanks.

I got the Panasonic VT20 3D plasma package from Best Buy. Just under $2500 after tax, e-waste fee and everything. Included 3 pairs of 3D glasses. Also would have included two free 3D Blu Ray movies via a mail in rebate. I decided to return it, because while the 3D was absolutely spectacular, I would get some serious eye fatigue after about 30 to 35 minutes of wearing the glasses. It got to the point where I was just preferring to watch the World Cup games in regular High-Def, rather than the 3D version on ESPN 3D. The 3D was amazing for me in short bursts (25 mins or less), but I just couldn't justify spending nearly $2500 for something that I'd really only enjoy in short bursts. The 2D quality of the VT20 is utterly astonishing, but my take on that, is that while I would love to have that uber picture quality, I'm not forking over that much for a really good 50 inch display. Maybe if it was 65 inches, but not 50. I basically was way overpaying specifically because of the 3D feature, and with the eye fatigue, that justification basically melted away.


Unfortunately, I sold my PN50A450 on Craigslist for $650. After buying the VT20, I was scrambling to sell my other plasma, and I settled for $650. So, I'm trying to find something very similar, for a similar price. That is why buying a PN50B450 is so appealing as a possibility, because I know it's like a half-brother to the A version.

Finally tuning in to this thread after owning the set for almost a year! We use the set primarily for daytime viewing. (Night time viewing is my FP setup )

I have been very pleased with the picture in Standard mode, much like others.

glad youre happy with it after a year of ownership...I too enjoy the standard mode w/ minor adjustments for regular tv watching(hd cable n such)... and for bluray/ movie viewing i like the movie mode with a ton of adjustments.

curious what settings everyone is using after all this time

I am using these settings currently. It looks good. The reds on my screen are very pixel"y". I ordered new HDMI cables off Mono price. I think the cheap no name brand ones I got may be a issue.

Does anyone else notice noise on the red bar on FOX News? I am curious if its just my TV that shows flickering reds or if it happens. It seems to be when the TV first turns on for a little while till it gets warmer??

Hi mac4ps,
just a quick thanks for those calibration results! i have the same exact model: ps50b430 (european, hungarian) and those settings worked like a charm. i was a bit hesitant about messing with the service menu, but as it turned out, it was a no brainer.
im no expert, but the factory settings for the colours were way off. my reds were really messed-up: way too bright compared to the other colors. im re-watching some of my hd stuff and the difference is huge. the picture is more natural, the skin tones are finally realistic and the colours seem balanced to my untrained eyes.
so thanks again!

I tried mac4ps' settings for movie and while it did help there was still a very dull, overcast image. Not as bad though. But it still wasn't clear. It's like looking through a filter. The color seemed better though.

I can also say that if you used his settings across movie/warm2 - warm1- normal, it gives the same result.

Also noticed that when I tried to put those settings to standard (followed his steps and just switched it to standard instead of movie) it made my standard image look bad. That took a while to fix.

hi dallows,
is your set american? if it is, that can explain the difference.
what are your settings?

there is another phenomenon that i have just recently noticed. when i watch it closely, in certain parts of the screen i see lots of tiny moving grains. this is not the so called "film grain" usually seen on blu-ray movies, which is supposed to be normal. these grains keep moving even if i pause the picture. i only noticed this while fiddling with the cables, so it might be the case of "dont watch it so close", as from a normal viewing distance i dont experience this.
anyway, just thought i'd ask if any of you've seen this...

I have a similar issue with my PN50B450. When in Movie mode I get green specks/noise/static where the letterbox bars are. I have tried it with different cables and players and the results are the same. When put back in Standard mode the noise goes away. Because of these green specks it makes my letter box bars brighter than the black in the actual picture. I would prefer to use Movie because the Warm 2 setting appears to have the most accurate color.

Might be a bad HDMI cable.

That was my initial thinking but after trying a different cable and the results I was left puzzled. Why it happens only in Movie mode is beyond me? Any one else have this issue?

I'm a new member and a proud owner of the B450. I just have one question. Should i set my resolution in my blu-ray player to 720p or 1080p? And should i select 24p to be on or off in the blu-ray players menu?

I have the same problem with black bars in my PN50B450, turn to
color green static with a 15 min of movie, how I will fix this problem?

try putting your cable box into 1080i instead of 720p.

Yes, I think we are experiencing the same issue. And you are right, it only happens in Movie mode. I'm really used to Warm2 by now, Standard looks too blue-ish to me and it creates artificial edges, which lead me to Movie mode in the first place. And during normal programmes and/or from a "normal" viewing distance I don't notice this. I used some color bars test images and the phenomenon is obvious there.

I don't experience the sparkly noise you have been talking about in the black areas; my set has been on for 14+ hours a day (use it to watch CNBC FNN during the days) for the last year and 3 months.

The service panel color settings given by our European friend are still great, and the picture is still as good.

I have found for streaming stuff off of your laptop/PC, the dynamic setting works well. Perhaps that is what it was designed for??

If you report your problem with the sparkly noise to Samsung, you might think you have to pay for in home warranty service after one year. But if you purchased your set with a major credit card, you may find that your warranty is doubled. Check with your credit card issuer to see if that is the case. If that is the case, you may see if that problem can be fixed for free.

I've had my PN50B450 for about a year and a half now. I've tweaked my settings many times, and I've experimented with suggestions from this thread.

Here are my settings. If you have your TV set to Movie mode and like it, I would suggest you stay away from these settings. I've tried Movie on mine, and everything is just so RED. There's a red haze over everything and I can't stand it. Maybe my settings are "wrong," but they look good to me. I'm sure a professional calibrator would mock these settings, but I love how my display looks.

I did not use any calibration discs, just my own eyes. I view the screen from about 9 feet away. I use these settings for HD cable, blu rays, upscaled DVDs, and Netflix streaming (I have slightly different settings for Xbox 360).

Mode: Standard
Cell light: 10
Contrast: 80
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 5
Color: 37
Tint: G80/R20

Advanced settings:
Black tone: off
Dynamic contrast: off
Gamma: 0
Color space: Auto
Flesh tone: 0
Edge enhancement: off

White balance:
R-offset: 0
G-offset: 25
B-offset: 25
R-gain: 0
G-gain: 25
B-gain: 25

Picture options:
Color tone: Cool
Size: Screen Fit most of the time. 16:9 when I want Pixel Shift enabled.
Digital NR: off
HDMI black level: normal (grayed out, can't change it)
Film mode: off (grayed out, can't change it)


A couple strange things you might notice off the bat are G80/R20, and R-offset and R-gain at 0. I use those settings because if I don't, reds, yellows, and oranges are WAY too vivid and look ridiculous to me. This is very noticeable in football games- orange pylons, yellow goalposts, and any red jerseys (good example is Atlanta Falcons) just stand out way too much. I still think red and orange stand out a bit too much, but there's nothing else I can do.

My PN42B450 update

O.k., so it’s been a while, but I bought a much better meter ( i1pro), and it is giving me much more accurate results than the calibrations I posted before. I decided to move to standard mode to get more brightness and see if I could get a decent grayscale (which I could, see attachments). I now use the settings below for all inputs. Brightness may need to be modified for each input. This gives me a very bright and dynamic picture, with very good color accuracy. Average gamma is 2.30, which works great. My peak brightness is 60 ftL!, good enough for viewing even during the day with windows near my TV. I haven’t had any problems with these settings, and the display has the same amount of minimal image retention that it always has had even in movie mode.

As always, results will vary from set to set, but this looks fantastic on my display.

Enjoy!
Dan

Mode: Standard
Cell light: 10
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 5
Color: 43
Tint: G44/R56

Advanced settings:
Black tone: off
Dynamic contrast: off
Gamma: -1
Color space: Auto
Flesh tone: 0
Edge enhancement: off

White balance:
R-offset: 19
G-offset: 25
B-offset: 4
R-gain: 30
G-gain: 25
B-gain: 9

Picture options:
Color tone: Normal
Size: 16:9
Digital NR: off
HDMI black level: normal
Film mode: Auto

(By the way, tint has the largest impact on yellow and magenta, so any big changes to tint will mess with skin tones. The settings above gave me the best balance of yellow, magenta and green)