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Samsung PN**B450 Picture Settings - Page 3

post #61 of 1407
5/22/09 at 8:44pm
Dan do you have any info on the Black Tone and the Dynamic Contrast? Everyone seems to be saying to leave these off, but when you increase them, the PQ changes dramatically. I can't seem to match it with just using the calibration software from DVE.

Thanks.
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post #62 of 1407
5/23/09 at 4:52pm
Dan thanks for your settings, was wondering if you have made any other adjustments.
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post #63 of 1407
5/23/09 at 8:56pm
I have not had a chance to try any other modes yet.

The black tone adjustment seems to impact the very dark areas of the picture like those less then 10% brightness. The "darker" you go with this setting, the more you lose black detail. The darker settings do give a "pop" factor to the picture, but at the expense of shadow detail. It is more of a preference setting. Choose whatever you prefer, but for now I'll stay with the off setting.

The dynamic contrast made some very intense, unwanted adjustments to the picture, so I left that off as well.

Dan
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post #64 of 1407
5/23/09 at 10:00pm
Can anyone please check to see if while on movie mode at the end of a movie, all black screen before the credits roll, if your screen appears to shut off like in standby mode. I'm trying to see if its normal or if I have a bad panel, thanks
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post #65 of 1407
5/24/09 at 5:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

Here's what I have so far. I fully expect these settings to change as I measure the effect of all the odd settings like black tone and dynamic contrast. There are about 30-40 hours on the TV at this point. These settings gave a VERY good greyscale.

Movie Mode. Warm 2 setting.

Cell - 10
Contrast - 75
Brightness - 52
Sharpness - 20 (didn't check this out too much yet)
Color - 40
Tint - G50/R50

Advanced:
Everything off or zero
Colorspace set to auto
Gamma +1
Red Offset: 15
Green Offset: 25
Blue Offset: 7
Red Gain: 25
Green Gain 0
Blue Gain: 16

EDIT The settings above allow yellow to be very accurate, but cyan and magenta are off (cyan with a slight green tint, and magenta with a slight red tint) If you want Magenta and Cyan to be accurate, but yellow to be off(yellow with a red tint), try this instead:
Colorspace: set to native
Tint: G26/R74

This gives an average gamma of 2.4 and 29 ft lamberts of brightness. I calibrate in a completely dark room. I'm interested to see how this looks with bright light. It might look slightly dim with these settings, as I normally shoot for 32 ft lamberts, and this was 28-29. Looking at the picture now, the skintones are fantastic, and colors seem natural. The settings may change as the set ages another 100 hours or so... I'll update this post as I get more familiar with the set and the results.

Dan

Dan, I tried your settings but on standard mode with the contrast at 100, and the dynamic contrast at medium. I must say it's by far the best picture I've gotten so far. I was somewhat unhappy with the way the yellows looked before, but this really cleared that up, along with the whites.

Also, I turned the flesh tone to -2 and the edge enhancements on.

Thanks!
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post #66 of 1407
5/24/09 at 10:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fretcruiser View Post

Dan, I tried your settings but on standard mode with the contrast at 100, and the dynamic contrast at medium. I must say it's by far the best picture I've gotten so far. I was somewhat unhappy with the way the yellows looked before, but this really cleared that up, along with the whites.

Also, I turned the flesh tone to -2 and the edge enhancements on.

Thanks!


wouldn't turning the contrast to 100 be a bad thing?
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post #67 of 1407
5/24/09 at 1:39pm
not for me. I like the high contrast.
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post #68 of 1407
5/24/09 at 8:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by fretcruiser View Post

Dan, I tried your settings but on standard mode with the contrast at 100, and the dynamic contrast at medium. I must say it's by far the best picture I've gotten so far. I was somewhat unhappy with the way the yellows looked before, but this really cleared that up, along with the whites.

Also, I turned the flesh tone to -2 and the edge enhancements on.

Thanks!

Glad to help. At least it gives you a good starting point, and then you can go from there with whatever preferences you like. I've watched my DVD, SD Tivo, and HD antenna sources with these settings, and so far they seem very nice. I'll keep them until about 100-150 hours and then check again. Maybe they won't change, but I'll provide an update then...

I still need to check the HDMI input as well, but haven't had a chance to check it yet.

Dan
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post #69 of 1407
5/24/09 at 8:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kanpol View Post

Can anyone please check to see if while on movie mode at the end of a movie, all black screen before the credits roll, if your screen appears to shut off like in standby mode. I'm trying to see if its normal or if I have a bad panel, thanks

Sorry kanpol, I haven't had a chance to check it out. I highly doubt you have a defective panel if it looks fine other that this occurance.

Dan
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post #70 of 1407
5/24/09 at 9:44pm
Dan have you checked your tv out yet on an all white screen(jpeg image)if you get a chance let me know if the ar coating is even, mine looks like its missing in some places. The reason I ask is because when I 1st got it, there were finger prints on the panel. The panel I'm referring to is the one behind the glass. Repairman came and opened up tv and cleaned them off. So being that they were sloppy while putting tv together maybe same person was sloppy with coating. Thats also why I was curious about the shut off on black screen. At 1st it didnt shut off instead it would flicker, then after repairman cleaned off prints it stoped flickering and a few days later it started to do the shutoff instead. sort of wierd how it did one thing stoped and then did something else. thats why I ask. thanks
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post #71 of 1407
5/24/09 at 10:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kanpol View Post

Dan have you checked your tv out yet on an all white screen(jpeg image)if you get a chance let me know if the ar coating is even, mine looks like its missing in some places. The reason I ask is because when I 1st got it, there were finger prints on the panel. The panel I'm referring to is the one behind the glass. Repairman came and opened up tv and cleaned them off. So being that they were sloppy while putting tv together maybe same person was sloppy with coating. Thats also why I was curious about the shut off on black screen. At 1st it didnt shut off instead it would flicker, then after repairman cleaned off prints it stoped flickering and a few days later it started to do the shutoff instead. sort of wierd how it did one thing stoped and then did something else. thats why I ask. thanks

Pretty sure my tv does this on both standard and movie modes
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post #72 of 1407
5/24/09 at 11:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dallows View Post

Pretty sure my tv does this on both standard and movie modes

thanks for replaying dallows, is that the flicker or the seeming to shut off? Wierd how mine only does does it in movie mode hmm, the good news is the picture is beautiful
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post #73 of 1407
5/25/09 at 7:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kanpol View Post

thanks for replaying dallows, is that the flicker or the seeming to shut off? Wierd how mine only does does it in movie mode hmm, the good news is the picture is beautiful

Agreed, this Samsung Plasma does produce a fantastic image! For the price, it's a no brainer. Yesterday, I was watching some golf and the Indy 500 on HD over the air and it was beautiful.

Even though the primary and secondary points are a little oversaturated, when the color is turned down to about 40, everything looks natural and accurate. Skin tones are excellent. I thought the greyscale was o.k. out of the box, but once I measured it and made the adjustments to the gains and offsets, it took it to another level.

Dan
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post #74 of 1407
5/25/09 at 8:09am
I'm using Dan's white balance settings but I've calibrated the color and tint with the DVE disc and filter. For Movie I'm at 50 color (I think) and G49/R51.

For Movie mode I left it at Warm2.

With Standard I calibrated with dynamic contrast set to medium. The grayscale test image looks about the same with it it off.

For that I think I'm at 51 brightness, 75 contrast, 40 color, tint is either G49/R51 or 50/50.

I don't know if I'm just not used to watching in Movie/Warm2 but the picture still looks like "cloudy." Sometimes the colors look good, but the overall image still looks very unclear, if you follow.
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post #75 of 1407
5/25/09 at 9:15am
In a very bright room, my picture gets washed out, but in a dark room the contrast and image depth look great.

Dynamic contrast was too extreme for me, even in the low setting.

Just a warning using DVE to set color ant tint. It doesn't take into account the brightness setting of the colors. (this is seperate from the main brightness setting). Using DVE and the filters will most likely cause the colors to be too strong.

Dan
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post #76 of 1407
5/25/09 at 10:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post

In a very bright room, my picture gets washed out, but in a dark room the contrast and image depth look great.

Dynamic contrast was too extreme for me, even in the low setting.

Just a warning using DVE to set color ant tint. It doesn't take into account the brightness setting of the colors. (this is seperate from the main brightness setting). Using DVE and the filters will most likely cause the colors to be too strong.

Dan

So I should ignore that the blue doesn't blend with the white background using the color filter based on your settings?

I'm inclined to believe you based on the fact that you're using actual software and a meter. But I don't know why it would be so off.
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post #77 of 1407
5/25/09 at 10:37am
You can use the color filters, but it is a limited view of the overall color performance.

If a TV is set up correctly, you can use the blue filters with no problems and the other colors would be inherantly correct. This Samsung has oversaturated colors, and the secondary colors are affected greatly by the tint (hue) settings. So you might be setting the hue for blue correctly, but cyan, magenta and yellow will be off. Changing the color setting doesn't impact color saturation as much as it changes color brightness on this display, and because of this you need to compensate for it. That is why the color is more accurate near 40.

If you use the color filter, and color looks fine to you, then you can leave it there. If it appears too strong, then I would back it down somewhere between 40 and 50.

Dan
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post #78 of 1407
5/25/09 at 5:24pm
Dan have you had a chance yet to calibrate your using your ps3 and hdmi. I checked out an all white screen using break in images and noticed a pink hue but if I changed the white balance I can make it go away. In the A450 model no matter how much I changed the white balance I could not make that pink hue go away. Im using your settings Dan and they look great but if I change the w/b to make pink hue go away I'm sure it messes up the colors greyscale correct.
These were settings I was using before (they were from the A550 owners thread,pbc calabrated his a550.Didnt look good on my A450 but looked good on the B450)

Movie Mode
C 80
B 53
Col 45
Tint G45/R55
Gamma -2
White Balance
24
24
26
28
25
23
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post #79 of 1407
5/25/09 at 7:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kanpol View Post

Can anyone please check to see if while on movie mode at the end of a movie, all black screen before the credits roll, if your screen appears to shut off like in standby mode. I'm trying to see if its normal or if I have a bad panel, thanks

O.k., so I had a chance to check this out while watching a DVD. I was able to replicate what you are referring to, but it was in Standard mode. It did not occur in my calibrated Movie mode.

In standard mode, the screen would flicker a little right before the credits when the image turned black, and the display seemed to shut off. Then when the credits started to roll, the image came back.

Seems to be a common occurance, and your panel is not bad.

Dan
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post #80 of 1407
5/25/09 at 7:47pm
I wish mine did it in standard mode instead of movie mode because all I use is movie mode. It's funny though how mine only does it in movie mode and your does it only in standard mode thanks for checking for me. Did you ever do your calibration using the ps3 and hdmi yet?
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post #81 of 1407
5/26/09 at 6:03am
No not yet. It's a pain for me to move it from the projector downstairs because the power cord is in a wall chase. Maybe I can find a similar power cord around the house so moving the PS3 will be easier.

I was looking at the Samsung last night, and it seems as the set ages that I might need to bump up the color slightly from 40. The pink tint you see with my settings might just be unit to unit variation, or possibly as the set ages the reds are more pronounced versus Green and Blue. I'll keep an eye on it, and update the calibration as I get more hours on the set, and post the results.

Dan
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post #82 of 1407
5/26/09 at 6:49am
I agree. I think we need to wait until the set you're working on gets more hours on it. Mine has probably around 200 hours. When I started calibrating I was about 150 hours.
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post #83 of 1407
5/26/09 at 9:19pm
Im sorry Dan, I guess I should've explained it a little different, your settings didnt cause the pink hue, it was already there when I first turned on the tv before changing any settings. It just that I can make it almost go away by changing w/b settings.
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post #84 of 1407
5/27/09 at 9:13am
Ok, gotcha. I'll be recalibrating again in about a week or two after the set has broken in for 100+ hours and will report back. Still need to check HDMI as well. I can get a much better handle on the color management system with HDMI because I can use the AVS REC.709 blu-ray downloadable disk that has much better, and more extensive patterns than the DVD I have used so far.

Dan
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post #85 of 1407
5/28/09 at 10:55pm
Dan,I saw on the other thread you did the hdmi calabration on your set, if you get a chance do you think you could post your new settings, also whats your opinion on the difference from component to hdmi
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post #86 of 1407
5/29/09 at 6:46am
EDIT, These settings are outdated now. Please refer to my post #362 for a better setting. 8-31-09 The link is here:http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post17091636

Dan
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post #87 of 1407
5/29/09 at 7:40am
wouldn't having contrast and brightness above 50 for the first 200 hours be bad Dan?
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post #88 of 1407
5/29/09 at 7:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtxvo View Post

wouldn't having contrast and brightness above 50 for the first 200 hours be bad Dan?

Only if you are going to display static images for extended periods, maybe. Burn in isn't an issue with new plasma's from what I've gathered, but you may get some image retention (IR) in the first few hundred hours if you have static images displayed.

Image retention goes away, so I'm not concerned about it. If you want to play it safe, then by all means stay under 50 for contrast.

I'm not worried about it. I saw IR when I had my test patterns up for so long during calibration, but it was gone this morning.

Dan
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post #89 of 1407
5/29/09 at 8:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by stereomandan View Post


Calibration Settings HDMI 1080P input:
Cell Light: 10
Contrast: 80
Brightness: 52 (51 would also work, but you might crush blacks slightly)
Sharpness: 20 (I did check this, and found the default of 20 to be very good at not producing excess edge effects. Any higher, like 30 or 40 and edge effect were easily visible to me)
Color: 44
Tint: G34/R66

Advanced: Everything off or zero except:
Gamma: +1
Color Space: Native
White Balance:
Red Offset: 12
Green Offset: 24
Blue Offset: 6
Red Gain: 25
Green Gain: 0
Blue Gain: 17

Enjoy!

I've found these settings to be stunning on my display. Of course, there is unit to unit variation, but this will give you a very good starting point.

Dan

You're in Movie/Warm2 I'm assuming? Couldn't you calibrate Standard mode to be at or near 6500k? What might the differences be between the two modes?

Thanks
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post #90 of 1407
5/29/09 at 10:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dallows View Post

You're in Movie/Warm2 I'm assuming? Couldn't you calibrate Standard mode to be at or near 6500k? What might the differences be between the two modes?

Thanks

Yes, movie, warm2.

I could check standard mode, but not sure what the benefit would be. I'm able to achieve my desired brightness (32 ftL) in movie mode, and track 6500K very well, and have the gamma I want.

The only advantage to standard mode might be the primary and secondary color locations. If they are located better, then it would be better to calibrate in standard than movie mode. I have no reason to believe it will be different, but I might check it just in case.

Dan
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