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Official HSU ULS-15 Thread - Page 82

post #2431 of 2549
Dr Hsu, the reason why i didnt shortlist quad 15H is the lack of the wireless connection hence limiting the placement and would require lengthy interconnects. They are also huge hence quad of them will be too obvious in the listening space.

Maybe my expectation is unrealistic at 12 Hz, what about says 15 - 100 Hz at 100db across the bandwidth? Would quad ULS15 does it or we still need more??
post #2432 of 2549
Perhaps a beef up 15H with the ULD15 amp featuring the wireless function would make the 15H more vetsatile in many scenario? Any plan for a wireless 15H, Dr Hsu??
post #2433 of 2549
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hifi4Hobby View Post

Perhaps a beef up 15H with the ULD15 amp featuring the wireless function would make the 15H more vetsatile in many scenario? Any plan for a wireless 15H, Dr Hsu??

There are a few decent choices for good third-party wireless adapters. Here's one:

http://audioengineusa.com/audioengine-w3-features#.UGmsJlFD03w

I haven't had trouble with the wireless feature on the ULS-15, but some have reported some issues.

A "turbo" version of the ULS-15 or VTF-15H would be cool.
post #2434 of 2549
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hifi4Hobby View Post

Dr Hsu, the reason why i didnt shortlist quad 15H is the lack of the wireless connection hence limiting the placement and would require lengthy interconnects. They are also huge hence quad of them will be too obvious in the listening space.
Maybe my expectation is unrealistic at 12 Hz, what about says 15 - 100 Hz at 100db across the bandwidth? Would quad ULS15 does it or we still need more??

That is certainly a lot more realistic and quad drive should do it, although if you are sitting in a null at some of that frequency... Remember to post your room layout.
post #2435 of 2549
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hifi4Hobby View Post

Perhaps a beef up 15H with the ULD15 amp featuring the wireless function would make the 15H more vetsatile in many scenario? Any plan for a wireless 15H, Dr Hsu??

Wireless does not work very well when you have many neighbors with wireless DSL, plus wireless keyboard, mouse, .... So, safest is still to use wired if you can...
post #2436 of 2549
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhskyTangoFoxtrt View Post

There are a few decent choices for good third-party wireless adapters. Here's one:
http://audioengineusa.com/audioengine-w3-features#.UGmsJlFD03w
I haven't had trouble with the wireless feature on the ULS-15, but some have reported some issues.
A "turbo" version of the ULS-15 or VTF-15H would be cool.

Yes, that would be cool... biggrin.gif
post #2437 of 2549
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhskyTangoFoxtrt View Post

There are a few decent choices for good third-party wireless adapters. Here's one:
http://audioengineusa.com/audioengine-w3-features#.UGmsJlFD03w
I haven't had trouble with the wireless feature on the ULS-15, but some have reported some issues.
A "turbo" version of the ULS-15 or VTF-15H would be cool.

Yea..imagine a VTF with 2 x 15 inch driver firing side way like the VTF3 with 2 ports firing front or to the back equipped with the 600w amp capable of some serious damages to the structure not the wallet though biggrin.gif
post #2438 of 2549
Hifi4Hobby, what would be better than placing a sub in every corner is stacking two to the front corners. Typically what happens when you have two identical subs and place them at opposite ends of the room you only get a 3 db increase, but when you co-locate them, you get a 6 db increase. Personally the system I would love to have to two stacks of fours ULSs each, so it would act like a line source. Dr. Hsu discussed such a setup briefly here.
post #2439 of 2549
I'd like to see a stack of 15Hs lol. I have mine colocated atm. I'm still sorely tempted to stack the pair for looks only.
post #2440 of 2549
I have gave stacking a good thought but unless they are like ULS15, stacking the 15H could be both arms challenging and risk of potential scratching and damaging the funishing of bothupper and lower units.

I have tried with co locating subs before but i find i liked them spreaded across the listening area better as the bass is more uniform. Am toying with the tought of having 6 to 8 units of ULD15 with 2 x 2 stacked at the front and 2 x 1 or 2 x 2 stacked at the back corner. I can handle the power connection but i just cant handle the interconnects as running a single line frim my processor to the back of where the subs will be located would mean at least a 22m to25m run and it would cost me a pair of ULS budget if not more hence i am stucked with the wireless solution.

I dont really like to handle too many big subs as my previous subs weight over 50kg each mad.gif
post #2441 of 2549
after 4 or 5 months of researching subs I finally place an order for the ULS-15 and a MBM-12 last night. I feel like a kid on Christmas eve waiting for them to arrive.

Do any of you guys have any recommendations on a fairly inexpensive SPL meter for setting them up? these are the first subs I've ever owned and I want to set them up properly.


Thanks
post #2442 of 2549
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBainbridge View Post

after 4 or 5 months of researching subs I finally place an order for the ULS-15 and a MBM-12 last night. I feel like a kid on Christmas eve waiting for them to arrive.
Do any of you guys have any recommendations on a fairly inexpensive SPL meter for setting them up? these are the first subs I've ever owned and I want to set them up properly.
Thanks

Welcome to the club JB. cool.gif I just went searching for the analogue Radio Shack one and it is nowhere to be found. That use to be the best cheap one to get. Maybe someone else has an idea?
post #2443 of 2549
It seems like Radio Shack discontinued them. You can buy SPL meters on ebay and amazon for pretty cheap.
post #2444 of 2549
Thanks HTG.

I picked up a cheap $20 model on Amazon. I guess I'll see how it works.

Any of you guys running your uls15 with the mbm-12? If so do you like it better sealed or ported?

JB
post #2445 of 2549
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBainbridge View Post

Thanks HTG.
I picked up a cheap $20 model on Amazon. I guess I'll see how it works.
Any of you guys running your uls15 with the mbm-12? If so do you like it better sealed or ported?
JB

Is that inexpensive SPL model the one I looked at that only had A weighting? You really should look for a slightly higher priced SPL meter that does C weighting for setting up the subs properly. I have not tried a MBM yet...might get one after one of my Velodynes should die....but I would recommend trying it both ways to see which one gives you the most tactile feel because you are going to place it nearfield right?
post #2446 of 2549
It is supposed to have A & C weighted features.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005JX2EZ2/ref=mp_s_a_2?pi=SL75&qid=1349971010&sr=8-2

The mbm-12 will be about 5' from the main listening position.

JB
post #2447 of 2549
Quote:
Originally Posted by hometheatergeek View Post


Is that inexpensive SPL model the one I looked at that only had A weighting? You really should look for a slightly higher priced SPL meter that does C weighting for setting up the subs properly. I have not tried a MBM yet...might get one after one of my Velodynes should die....but I would recommend trying it both ways to see which one gives you the most tactile feel because you are going to place it nearfield right?

 

I thought RS was still selling the digital SPL?

 

The problem with the one shown is that you will have difficulty finding a calibration file for it, should you ever want to use measurement software like REW.

post #2448 of 2549
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

I thought RS was still selling the digital SPL?

The problem with the one shown is that you will have difficulty finding a calibration file for it, should you ever want to use measurement software like REW.

I looked at RS website but I don't think they are selling them anymore. I could check my local store however and see if they still have them in inventory. There were some used ones on eBay.

Is the REW software fairly easy to learn?
post #2449 of 2549
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBainbridge View Post


I looked at RS website but I don't think they are selling them anymore. I could check my local store however and see if they still have them in inventory. There were some used ones on eBay.
Is the REW software fairly easy to learn?

 

REW has a fairly steep learning curve, and would involve approximately another $100 in hardware (a USB sound card, a calibrated mic, a boom mic stand, and various cables) to get set up.  However, if you are a serious audiophile, being able to measure response in your room is a must, IMO.

post #2450 of 2549
I guess the cheap SPL meter will have to get me by for now. The wife was pretty good about letting me get the subs so I don't want to push it. Maybe after the first of the year I can get the dayton audio omnimic.biggrin.gif
post #2451 of 2549
My ULS & MBM showed up on Monday:D. I spent a few hours setting them up and what little listening I've done so far has really made my Monitor Audio's shine. I have a little more tweaking to do this weekend if I get some time.
post #2452 of 2549
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBainbridge View Post

My ULS & MBM showed up on Monday:D. I spent a few hours setting them up and what little listening I've done so far has really made my Monitor Audio's shine. I have a little more tweaking to do this weekend if I get some time.
how did you set up your MBM? Since the MBM's design is down-firing, anyone tried the MBM with the driver front firing?
post #2453 of 2549
Quote:
Originally Posted by WereWolf84 View Post

how did you set up your MBM? Since the MBM's design is down-firing, anyone tried the MBM with the driver front firing?

I set the MBM nearfield, about 5ft from the main listening position and have it crossed over to play between 50 & 90Hz. Right now I am running it ported and will try it sealed this weekend. Personally I wouldn't lay it on it's side but I guess you could. There is no grill on the bottom so if you have pets or kids as I do there is a good chance to damage the driver. I'm really not sure you would notice much, if any of a difference anyway as bass is non directional.


JB
post #2454 of 2549
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBainbridge View Post

I set the MBM nearfield, about 5ft from the main listening position and have it crossed over to play between 50 & 90Hz. Right now I am running it ported and will try it sealed this weekend. Personally I wouldn't lay it on it's side but I guess you could. There is no grill on the bottom so if you have pets or kids as I do there is a good chance to damage the driver. I'm really not sure you would notice much, if any of a difference anyway as bass is non directional.
JB
Thanks for your info of your setup, what volume level did you set for your MBM? I have almost identical setup as yours, about 5ft from main listening position, crossover 50-90Hz in ported mode
post #2455 of 2549
I'm still learning how to operate my receiver (Denon 3312) but after I ran calibration the sub channel level was at -5.5 so I manually bumped it up to zero. Is there a way to set the sub(s) so that they come in closer to zero after running calibration without having to bump it up manually? If there is I would appreciate it if someone could explain it to me.
post #2456 of 2549
you need a SPL meter to measure & adjust the sub level until it's matching all your speakers
post #2457 of 2549
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBainbridge View Post

I'm still learning how to operate my receiver (Denon 3312) but after I ran calibration the sub channel level was at -5.5 so I manually bumped it up to zero. Is there a way to set the sub(s) so that they come in closer to zero after running calibration without having to bump it up manually? If there is I would appreciate it if someone could explain it to me.

Well, a trim of -5.5 doesn't hurt anything. If you want the post-calibration trim to be closer to zero, then turn the gain down on the back of the sub and run the calibration again. A negative trim simply means the sub's gain was a bit too high.

However, what you may be saying is that the sub volume sounds too low after the calibration, which is a common complaint. If you follow my advice above, the lower sub gain and the higher Audyssey trim results in exactly the same sub volume after the calibration, which may be lower than what you like. There is nothing wrong with adjusting the sub's trim in the AVR after calibrating in order to get a higher sub level. Just don't touch the gain on the back of the sub after the calibration has finished.
post #2458 of 2549
Quote:
Originally Posted by WereWolf84 View Post

you need a SPL meter to measure & adjust the sub level until it's matching all your speakers

That is what Audyssey does as part of the calibration. If the OP still finds the sub level too low, simply adjust the trim in the AVR.
post #2459 of 2549
what I'm trying to say is, by using SPL meter, the OP can either choose higher sub level/gain & negative sub channel trim or lower sub level/gain & zero sub channel trim
post #2460 of 2549
Thanks for the info Jerry. I did level match the subs with an SPL meter but didn't match them to my speakers. I just thought I read somewhere in this thread where Home Theater Geek explained a way to match everything up to get the best performance where the subs were dialed in to within 1db

Thanks again
JB
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