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Official HSU ULS-15 Thread - Page 83

post #2461 of 2549
11/3/12 at 5:11pm
Hello Everyone,

I was wondering if anyone could comment on the signal quality of wireless versus wired with the HSU ULS15H.

I could go either way, although wireless would be easier. I just want to be sure I am not sacrificing any quality by going wireless.

Does anyone know for sure? Will the signal be exactly the same wired or wireless?

Thank you in advance!

-Daikon
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post #2462 of 2549
11/3/12 at 7:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaikon View Post

Hello Everyone,
I was wondering if anyone could comment on the signal quality of wireless versus wired with the HSU ULS15H.
I could go either way, although wireless would be easier. I just want to be sure I am not sacrificing any quality by going wireless.
Does anyone know for sure? Will the signal be exactly the same wired or wireless?
Thank you in advance!
-Daikon

The quality of the signal should be the same. However, a number of users, myself included, have found that there is undesirable interference between the ULS-15 wireless and other wireless devices in the home. In my case, I could never get rid of static pops caused by things Ike my cordless phone and the 20+ wireless devices I have on the network. Wired is the way to go.
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post #2463 of 2549
11/4/12 at 7:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

The quality of the signal should be the same. However, a number of users, myself included, have found that there is undesirable interference between the ULS-15 wireless and other wireless devices in the home. In my case, I could never get rid of static pops caused by things Ike my cordless phone and the 20+ wireless devices I have on the network. Wired is the way to go.

Thanks for the response. No pops yet, knock on wood, but I have had some issues with Audysey calibration going wireless. It keeps setting my sub at +12db which I have heard is a sign that something is wrong. I am guessing this may have to do with the fact that I do not have a Y splitter from my sub out to fee the left and right channel of the wireless transmitter, although I am not sure what difference that would make.

I will be ordering a splitter from monoprice and could just as easy pick up 50ft of RCA for the sub as well, however I really do not want to run it if I have no need...
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post #2464 of 2549
11/4/12 at 9:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaikon View Post


Thanks for the response. No pops yet, knock on wood, but I have had some issues with Audysey calibration going wireless. It keeps setting my sub at +12db which I have heard is a sign that something is wrong. I am guessing this may have to do with the fact that I do not have a Y splitter from my sub out to fee the left and right channel of the wireless transmitter, although I am not sure what difference that would make.
I will be ordering a splitter from monoprice and could just as easy pick up 50ft of RCA for the sub as well, however I really do not want to run it if I have no need...

 

If you have only one sub, then you should not be having a problem.  Connect a single cable from the sub out on your AVR to either the left or right input on the wireless box. 

 

If Audyssey sets the sub level at +12, then the signal Audyssey is measuring is too low (or it isn't hearing the sub at all).  When Audyssey is going through its chirps, can you hear the calibration tone coming from the sub?  Does the tone sound unusually low?

 

Let's review the settings on the back of the ULS-15.  The crossover selector should be "OUT".  The crossover frequency dial has no affect if crossover is "OUT".  The ULF trim value should have no impact on the issue you are having.  The wireless switch should be set to "Wireless" of course, and the channel dip switch should match the channel configured on the wireless box.  The volume setting is critical to the issue.  What is the current volume setting? Try turning it up about a quarter turn, to at least 12 O'clock on the dial.

 

Now run Audyssey again, with only one measurement point.  Run calculation and save the settings to the AVR.  What is the sub trim level now?  If still +12, repeat the process one more time, this time setting the sub volume control a notch or two higher.  Repeat the one-measurement calibration.  Is the sub still at +12?  Then there is an issue elsewhere.

 

If you are able to get the sub trim to a value lower than +12, then you are making progress.  Back to the Y-splitter.  If you add a Y-splitter to the end of the single cable coming from the AVR and plug the Y-cable into the left and right connections on the wireless box, you will get approximately 6dB extra gain.  You can get a Y-cable quickly from your local Best Buy or Radio Shack.  The objective is to get the sub trim into the +/- 3dB range without turning the vulume control on the sub too high.  On my ULS-15's, the volume control is between 10 and 11 O'clock on the dial.

 

Let me know how it goes.

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post #2465 of 2549
11/4/12 at 3:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaikon View Post

Thanks for the response. No pops yet, knock on wood, but I have had some issues with Audysey calibration going wireless. It keeps setting my sub at +12db which I have heard is a sign that something is wrong. I am guessing this may have to do with the fact that I do not have a Y splitter from my sub out to fee the left and right channel of the wireless transmitter, although I am not sure what difference that would make.
I will be ordering a splitter from monoprice and could just as easy pick up 50ft of RCA for the sub as well, however I really do not want to run it if I have no need...

Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

If you have only one sub, then you should not be having a problem.  Connect a single cable from the sub out on your AVR to either the left or right input on the wireless box. 

If Audyssey sets the sub level at +12, then the signal Audyssey is measuring is too low (or it isn't hearing the sub at all).  When Audyssey is going through its chirps, can you hear the calibration tone coming from the sub?  Does the tone sound unusually low?

Let's review the settings on the back of the ULS-15.  The crossover selector should be "OUT".  The crossover frequency dial has no affect if crossover is "OUT".  The ULF trim value should have no impact on the issue you are having.  The wireless switch should be set to "Wireless" of course, and the channel dip switch should match the channel configured on the wireless box.  The volume setting is critical to the issue.  What is the current volume setting? Try turning it up about a quarter turn, to at least 12 O'clock on the dial.

Now run Audyssey again, with only one measurement point.  Run calculation and save the settings to the AVR.  What is the sub trim level now?  If still +12, repeat the process one more time, this time setting the sub volume control a notch or two higher.  Repeat the one-measurement calibration.  Is the sub still at +12?  Then there is an issue elsewhere.

If you are able to get the sub trim to a value lower than +12, then you are making progress.  Back to the Y-splitter.  If you add a Y-splitter to the end of the single cable coming from the AVR and plug the Y-cable into the left and right connections on the wireless box, you will get approximately 6dB extra gain.  You can get a Y-cable quickly from your local Best Buy or Radio Shack.  The objective is to get the sub trim into the +/- 3dB range without turning the vulume control on the sub too high.  On my ULS-15's, the volume control is between 10 and 11 O'clock on the dial.

Let me know how it goes.

BTW, Hsu does recommend connecting a Y-spliiter to both inputs on the wireless transmitter to boost the signal.

http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/manual/ULS-15Quickset.pdf
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post #2466 of 2549
11/4/12 at 3:45pm
Yeah Jerry there should be a Y feeding both left and rgiht on the wireless sender. No Y needed if it is a wired connection. .
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post #2467 of 2549
11/5/12 at 2:19pm
Well I have had a ULS -15 for a few months and have been very happy with it compared to my previous offerings not that it was really bad just a different sound. I have been on the fence about adding a 2nd unit but after doing some reading regarding dual setups in small or large rooms I felt it would be a huge benefit now and later so I will officially be a part of the Dual Drive Club this weekend!!eek.gif

Although it did not fair as well as I would have liked in the recent sub gtg held by a respectable group because some type of damage to it there were still good reviews to come out of it so if you are on the fence go for it.
Edited by wkingincharge - 11/5/12 at 2:39pm
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post #2468 of 2549
11/5/12 at 3:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wkingincharge View Post

Well I have had a ULS -15 for a few months and have been very happy with it compared to my previous offerings not that it was really bad just a different sound. I have been on the fence about adding a 2nd unit but after doing some reading regarding dual setups in small or large rooms I felt it would be a huge benefit now and later so I will officially be a part of the Dual Drive Club this weekend!!eek.gif
Although it did not fair as well as I would have liked in the recent sub gtg held by a respectable group because some type of damage to it there were still good reviews to come out of it so if you are on the fence go for it.

You're going to love it! I've been "Dual Driving" for a few years now and never a regret for that purchase...
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post #2469 of 2549
11/5/12 at 4:43pm
Congrats on joining the club. You will be amazed at the difference between owning one vs having the dual drive.
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post #2470 of 2549
11/5/12 at 6:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

If you have only one sub, then you should not be having a problem.  Connect a single cable from the sub out on your AVR to either the left or right input on the wireless box. 

If Audyssey sets the sub level at +12, then the signal Audyssey is measuring is too low (or it isn't hearing the sub at all).  When Audyssey is going through its chirps, can you hear the calibration tone coming from the sub?  Does the tone sound unusually low?

Let's review the settings on the back of the ULS-15.  The crossover selector should be "OUT".  The crossover frequency dial has no affect if crossover is "OUT".  The ULF trim value should have no impact on the issue you are having.  The wireless switch should be set to "Wireless" of course, and the channel dip switch should match the channel configured on the wireless box.  The volume setting is critical to the issue.  What is the current volume setting? Try turning it up about a quarter turn, to at least 12 O'clock on the dial.

Now run Audyssey again, with only one measurement point.  Run calculation and save the settings to the AVR.  What is the sub trim level now?  If still +12, repeat the process one more time, this time setting the sub volume control a notch or two higher.  Repeat the one-measurement calibration.  Is the sub still at +12?  Then there is an issue elsewhere.

If you are able to get the sub trim to a value lower than +12, then you are making progress.  Back to the Y-splitter.  If you add a Y-splitter to the end of the single cable coming from the AVR and plug the Y-cable into the left and right connections on the wireless box, you will get approximately 6dB extra gain.  You can get a Y-cable quickly from your local Best Buy or Radio Shack.  The objective is to get the sub trim into the +/- 3dB range without turning the vulume control on the sub too high.  On my ULS-15's, the volume control is between 10 and 11 O'clock on the dial.

Let me know how it goes.

Wow! Thank you!

The sound was pretty low.

I went out and got a Y splitter and ran Audysey again. I think it did not make a sound at all on the last step of calibration, but on all other parts it was much, much smoother. I do think that there also was a slight delay when audysey first sent its test tone- almost like the speaker had to wake up. On the last part that I think the sub missed (when it was finalizing), I did not hear the sub, rather it just showed the sub blink on the screen display.

Having said that, I now have a trim of +4.5db. Much better, but still a bit away from the +/-3db goal you set. I will say the sub now sounds amazing. I tested out Underworld today and was blown away. :-)

Do you think I should try it again to see if I get a better trim? Should I adjust the volume on the sub a bit and rerun Audysey? Should I run wires versus going wireless (is going wireless the reason for my +4.5db versus +/- 3db and not something to worry about)? Or do you think everything sound great and I should just leave it alone?


Thank you again!
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post #2471 of 2549
11/5/12 at 7:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaikon View Post

Wow! Thank you!
The sound was pretty low.
I went out and got a Y splitter and ran Audysey again. I think it did not make a sound at all on the last step of calibration, but on all other parts it was much, much smoother. I do think that there also was a slight delay when audysey first sent its test tone- almost like the speaker had to wake up. On the last part that I think the sub missed (when it was finalizing), I did not hear the sub, rather it just showed the sub blink on the screen display.
Having said that, I now have a trim of +4.5db. Much better, but still a bit away from the +/-3db goal you set. I will say the sub now sounds amazing. I tested out Underworld today and was blown away. :-)
Do you think I should try it again to see if I get a better trim? Should I adjust the volume on the sub a bit and rerun Audysey? Should I run wires versus going wireless (is going wireless the reason for my +4.5db versus +/- 3db and not something to worry about)? Or do you think everything sound great and I should just leave it alone?
Thank you again!

There is nothing wrong with a trim of +4.5, and you would gain nothing by trying to get it closer to the +/- 3dB range I mentioned. As long as the trim is not maxed out at +12 like it was, you are good to go. And as long as you aren't getting any unwanted interference with your wireless connection, I wouldn't change to wired. Sit back and enjoy.
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post #2472 of 2549
11/6/12 at 6:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hometheatergeek View Post

Congrats on joining the club. You will be amazed at the difference between owning one vs having the dual drive.

I believe you 100 percent!! and I think my next door neighbors might be amazed as well lol!!!

Can't wait to set the 2nd one up and run some material this weekend!!! I actually told a friend who is building his setup what I was doing and he says do you think you have enough???
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post #2473 of 2549
11/8/12 at 6:27am
I have a Pioneer SC-37 receiver and just ordered a ULS-15.

I am trying to order a subwoofer cable from Blue Jeans but realized the sub has a L and R low level input as high level inputs. What cable(s) and other splitters, etc do I need in order to get the subwoofer up and running? This is my first subwoofer purchase so my apologies for the newbie question.

I want to be sure i have what I need the first time as buying things like cables here in Singapore is expensive.

Thanks!
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post #2474 of 2549
11/8/12 at 6:33am
You just need one sub cable. Connect the cable to either the L or R low level input, no need for a Y cable.
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post #2475 of 2549
11/8/12 at 8:05am
The Left (white) input is the LFE input.. Don't use the right input. Its labeled on the back.
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post #2476 of 2549
11/8/12 at 11:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by pauleyc View Post

The Left (white) input is the LFE input.. Don't use the right input. Its labeled on the back.

Not sure I agree. As per the manual, connect the single cable from the AVR's Sub out to either the right (red) or the left (white) RCA low-level input on the sub. Doesn't matter which input.
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post #2477 of 2549
11/8/12 at 11:17am
Interesting. I remember having issues w/ level and I thought it had to do with input. They are labeled differently on the back. confused.gif I'll test it to see. Not trying to spread bad intel.
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post #2478 of 2549
11/8/12 at 11:21am
You are correct. Found an post from back in 2010 where Pete confirmed you can use either. Funny thing is that Roger Dressler recommended they label one port LFE so people didn't think they needed a Y connector to both .. they must have listened b/c my is labeled that way ... smile.gif
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post #2479 of 2549
11/8/12 at 12:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pauleyc View Post

You are correct. Found an post from back in 2010 where Pete confirmed you can use either. Funny thing is that Roger Dressler recommended they label one port LFE so people didn't think they needed a Y connector to both .. they must have listened b/c my is labeled that way ... smile.gif

Interesting. I have three ULS-15's, and none have a label other than Left and Right. Perhaps they have changed the labels recently.
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post #2480 of 2549
11/8/12 at 4:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

There is nothing wrong with a trim of +4.5, and you would gain nothing by trying to get it closer to the +/- 3dB range I mentioned. As long as the trim is not maxed out at +12 like it was, you are good to go. And as long as you aren't getting any unwanted interference with your wireless connection, I wouldn't change to wired. Sit back and enjoy.

That sounds great to me... and thank you again! I am not sure if I will ultimately go wired or not. Every now and then it takes my sub a bit to kick on ...maybe to many wireless signals here...but for the most part it is great. ...next I am going to read up on what the heck an SPL meter is, how to use it, and why I should care :-D

Thank you again!
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post #2481 of 2549
11/9/12 at 6:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaikon View Post

That sounds great to me... and thank you again! I am not sure if I will ultimately go wired or not. Every now and then it takes my sub a bit to kick on ...maybe to many wireless signals here...but for the most part it is great. ...next I am going to read up on what the heck an SPL meter is, how to use it, and why I should care :-D
Thank you again!

Where is your crossover?

Is your LPF of LFE set at its highest point?

Are you using the Y-adapter on the wireless transmitter?
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post #2482 of 2549
11/11/12 at 9:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wkingincharge View Post

I believe you 100 percent!! and I think my next door neighbors might be amazed as well lol!!!
Can't wait to set the 2nd one up and run some material this weekend!!! I actually told a friend who is building his setup what I was doing and he says do you think you have enough???

We have been enjoying this weekend even more since I added the 2nd ULS -15 on Friday. Again I truly now understand why having 2 or more can make the sound so even and my extension with room gain is truly unbelievable. I would be curious how low I am actually getting but without measuring equipment its speculation but I do know its can get loud at least according to my SPL meter..
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post #2483 of 2549
11/11/12 at 11:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wkingincharge View Post

We have been enjoying this weekend even more since I added the 2nd ULS -15 on Friday. Again I truly now understand why having 2 or more can make the sound so even and my extension with room gain is truly unbelievable. I would be curious how low I am actually getting but without measuring equipment its speculation but I do know its can get loud at least according to my SPL meter..

Download these test tones.
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post #2484 of 2549
11/11/12 at 12:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hometheatergeek View Post

Download these test tones.

HTG, I have tried the RealTraps test tones before. Problem is, it takes forever to run one series of measurements from one spot. What really needs to be measured is several spots across the listening area, and then an average generated. Ideally, if Audyssey room correction is being used, then the measurements should be at the same spots as the Audyssey mic placements. Doing this with the RealTraps tones would take forever. Anyone who is serious about assessing frequency response should invest in an REW kit, or a packaged measurement solution like OmniMic.
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post #2485 of 2549
11/11/12 at 1:21pm
You can still use the lowest tones at the LP with a SPL meter to see what sort of room gain you are getting. Does not take too long.
But Yes REW or XTZ Room Analyzer or the Omnimic system will make the job easier.
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post #2486 of 2549
11/11/12 at 6:54pm
I will give the test tones a try first even understanding the method is not as accurate and will research into REW,XTZ or Ommnic as I know a few others who would be able to use it if I decided to invest in it. Thanks!!!
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post #2487 of 2549
11/26/12 at 6:44am
can someone post some 2m ground plan tests for the uls-15s. i'm trying to see if two uls-15s can match the output of two pb12-nsds at 20hz
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post #2488 of 2549
11/26/12 at 7:10am
Using a dB calculator and an Xmax of 37.5mm, a pair of sealed 15" subs will produce approximately 4dB more than a pair of sealed 12" subs.

http://www.baudline.com/erik/bass/xmaxer.html

Using the max burst graph for the SVS, PB12=NSD from data-bass, plus co-location gain (5-6dB) and floor gain of 3dB, confirms this calculation.

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=66&mset=71

If one is wanting clean reference levels out of the SVS, PB12-NSD, my recommendation would be to consider buying at minimum, three of these bad boys.

Do with the above what you will.

(I'm a fan of both of these subs)
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post #2489 of 2549
11/26/12 at 7:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

Using a dB calculator and an Xmax of 37.5mm, a pair of sealed 15" subs will produce approximately 4dB more than a pair of sealed 12" subs.
http://www.baudline.com/erik/bass/xmaxer.html
Using the max burst graph for the SVS, PB12=NSD from data-bass, plus co-location gain (5-6dB) and floor gain of 3dB, confirms this calculation.
http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=66&mset=71
If one is wanting clean reference levels out of the SVS, PB12-NSD, my recommendation would be to consider buying at minimum, three of these bad boys.
Do with the above what you will.
(I'm a fan of both of these subs)

you mean the svs sb12-nsd (sealed box)?

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=80

this shows a max spl of 91.9db at 20hz. so i would expect the hsu to be around 96db solo and 100db dual at 20hz max spl on a 2m ground plane test? is that logic correct?

The svs PB12 is the ported box and has more spl output. it hit 103db at 20hz. So i would think 1 pb12-nsd would have higher spl output at 20hz that two uls 15s? Is that logic correct?

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=66&mset=71
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post #2490 of 2549
11/26/12 at 8:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by proudx View Post

you mean the svs sb12-nsd (sealed box)?

I mean the one you asked about, the PB12-NSD at 20Hz. In my comments, I'm aware that I'm comparing sealed vs ported body designs.

Quote:
So i would think 1 pb12-nsd would have higher spl output at 20hz that two uls 15s? Is that logic correct?

That's why the inclusion of the link to the calculator and the Xmax of the Hsu, ULS-15 so you can do the calculations for yourself. When one adds in the 5-6dB boost for co-location (within the length of frequency wave for 20Hz) and you add in the 3dB for the floor reinforcement, you have a more accurate performance figures for a sub in a Home Theater setup.

IIRC, the standard rule of thumb is, one 15" is equal to two 12" subs as to overall output, not including co-location boost and floor reinforcement. Between an understanding of co-location, floor reinforcement, the calculator and the information provided by data-bass, one should be able to get a decent idea of what's what with what. My subwoofer progression, in pairs is:

Klipsch, RW-12d > SVS, PB12-NSD > Hsu, ULS-15 > Funk, 18.0C.

(The Funk, 18.0C can be replaced by a SubMersive HP which has a pair of 15" drivers with, due to a longer Xmax (IIRC, 20mm vs 40.5mm), my opinion, a 3dB edge going to the Funk subwoofer.)

All of the above are in my opinion and all of the above are based on my flaky recollection of conversations with several different subwoofer manufactures. What is it you're wanting to do? Buy a SVS, PB12-NSD or a Hsu, ULS-15? ???

-
Edited by BeeMan458 - 11/26/12 at 8:16am
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