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Official Samsung LNxxB750 Owners Thread - Page 243

post #7261 of 7363
10/20/10 at 1:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by squirrellydw View Post

What do I have to do to be able to stream movies from my computer to the TV (LN52B750)?

Thanks

all i do is use my tv as a second monitor, so i have a cable(vga) going from my computer to my tv, but the sound still comes out of my computer speakers, well until i got a home theatre system
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post #7262 of 7363
10/24/10 at 10:37am
Sorry if this has already been answered (thread is a bit large to search through!) but what's the deal with setting the clock to 'auto'? It never seems to set itself for me, what perhaps am I missing?
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post #7263 of 7363
10/25/10 at 5:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by on3moresoul View Post

It never seems to set itself for me, what perhaps am I missing?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extended_Data_Services
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post #7264 of 7363
10/26/10 at 12:57am
From what I understand, the "Auto1" setting on this set does the pulldown for 1080i film content like for examples, 1080i movies on HBO/Cinemax HD and 1080i non-video TV shows like CSI and Smallville that have film signals (feel free to add or correct me if im wrong) My question to anyone that is knowledgeable about this subject is since the panel is native 240hz, why would an additional setting like "auto1" be needed? Shouldnt this set do the pulldown automatically? Quite honestly, im still a little unsure when to turn on Auto1 and turn it off. I guess im missing something so hopefully someone can clarify. Thanks in advance!
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post #7265 of 7363
10/26/10 at 3:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kryptonian View Post

From what I understand, the "Auto1" setting on this set does the pulldown for 1080i film content like for examples, 1080i movies on HBO/Cinemax HD and 1080i non-video TV shows like CSI and Smallville that have film signals (feel free to add or correct me if im wrong) My question to anyone that is knowledgeable about this subject is since the panel is native 240hz, why would an additional setting like "auto1" be needed? Shouldnt this set do the pulldown automatically? Quite honestly, im still a little unsure when to turn on Auto1 and turn it off. I guess im missing something so hopefully someone can clarify. Thanks in advance!

I'm not sure on this but there is a reason why to keep it set to Auto 1; I think it has something to do with how text is displayed on screen? i.e. espn tickers, sub titles? I have it set to auto 1 for over a year now. By the way still love this TV; great picture.
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post #7266 of 7363
10/26/10 at 1:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmarkw View Post

I'm not sure on this but there is a reason why to keep it set to Auto 1; I think it has something to do with how text is displayed on screen? i.e. espn tickers, sub titles? I have it set to auto 1 for over a year now. By the way still love this TV; great picture.

Hello, like you I also love this TV! Auto2 is actually better for text/tickers. I use it especially while watching ESPN because it really smooths out the ticker when it starts to jitter/have jerky movement. Auto1 as it says in the menu "automatically adjusts the picture for the best quality when watching a film" although I have to admit, when I turn it on when watching a film, I dont visibly see any noticeable improvement. Thats partly why I asked those questions.
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post #7267 of 7363
11/10/10 at 9:47am
Hi,

Dumb question time... is there anyway to change the function of the remote control/TV so that when the "TV" button on the remote is pressed it selects another source other than the coax input? I've labeled another source as "TV" in the source list, but that didn't seem to do it - just wondering if I'm missing anything obvious. I didn't see anything in the manual, though maybe I missed it.

- Rob
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post #7268 of 7363
11/10/10 at 10:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dupcak View Post

Hi,

Dumb question time... is there anyway to change the function of the remote control/TV so that when the "TV" button on the remote is pressed it selects another source other than the coax input? I've labeled another source as "TV" in the source list, but that didn't seem to do it - just wondering if I'm missing anything obvious. I didn't see anything in the manual, though maybe I missed it.

- Rob

I believe when you power ON the TV it defaults to the last source that was selected when the TV was turned OFF.
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post #7269 of 7363
11/10/10 at 10:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by on3moresoul View Post

Sorry if this has already been answered (thread is a bit large to search through!) but what's the deal with setting the clock to 'auto'? It never seems to set itself for me, what perhaps am I missing?

I'm in Canada and on Rogers cable, so YMMV. Having the clock set to auto changed it to DST automatically this spring. It didn't, though, change it back last Sunday, but this was either because I got a new HD box from Rogers or because the channels I watched didn't have the XDS signal. Unfortunately, I don't remember which channel(s) I watched in the spring. I tried several, but it didn't work and, at the end, I gave up and changed it manually.
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post #7270 of 7363
11/11/10 at 6:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by telc View Post

I believe when you power ON the TV it defaults to the last source that was selected when the TV was turned OFF.

Correct, but what I was trying to ask was - is there anyway to hit the "TV" button (middle of the top row) and have it select some other source - for example the "HDMI 1" input instead of the coax input.

The reason I ask is because I just switched form OTA to and OTA DVR, and am now watching through HDMI versus coax. Now when I switch from watching something connected to "HDMI 2" or "HDMI 3", I now have to pan through all the sources to get back to watching TV - previously, I could just hit the "TV" button and it would take me right there.

I'm just being lazy and want to avoid a few extra button pushes.

- Rob
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post #7271 of 7363
11/17/10 at 12:50pm
It's been at least a year since I browsed the forums, since I bought our LN52B750.

I'm looking to buy another HDTV and see that they don't make a 52C750, and it's hard to find a new 52B750. The few places that have them are insane with their prices. WTH?

So I'm wondering what's the general consensus on 50-something" LCD TV's nowadays. I'd like to keep with the 240hz or higher refresh rate but I want at least a 50 inch screen.

Can I get a few suggestions on the best bang for the buck? I'm open to plasma units.

Also, where are some of the best deals happening? Big River was the best when I bought my current unit. Thanks in advance.
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post #7272 of 7363
11/17/10 at 2:53pm
Still no word on whether the firmware updates are important if everything seems fine?

Also, any tips on how to clean this screen? Over that last many months mine's gotten disgusting, but I have no idea how to clean it. I sometimes go over the screen with the included microfiber cloth, but i know i should not.
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post #7273 of 7363
11/17/10 at 3:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Test123455 View Post

Also, any tips on how to clean this screen? Over that last many months mine's gotten disgusting, but I have no idea how to clean it. I sometimes go over the screen with the included microfiber cloth, but i know i should not.

I'm not an expert, but I use a used dryer sheet to remove/reduce static, and then a microfiber cloth with a small amount of lens cleaner on it. Looks pretty good to me.
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post #7274 of 7363
11/26/10 at 11:57am
Does anyone have any calibrated settings for game mode on, on a ps3?

Thanks
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post #7275 of 7363
11/26/10 at 11:54pm
I'm getting a new A/V receiver that has 3 HDMI connections. I currently have HDMI going to my cable box from my TV with optical between box and TV. Does anyone have this TV connected to the A/v receiver HDMI port instead of the cable box? Can i get HD audio/video this way? Is there an advantage to connecting HDMI from the TV to a A/V receiver as opposed to the cable box?
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post #7276 of 7363
11/27/10 at 11:06am
I have the cable box connected with HDMI to the AVR and AVR with HDMI to the TV. Yes, you can get HD audio and video without issues (as long as your cable has HD).

This way you have only one HDMI going to the TV (e.g. if you have BD or DVD player, CD changer, etc. you connect all of them to the AVR and only the AVR to the TV) and your TV is always set on one and the same HDMI port. Depending of you AVR you can also set it to passthrough the cable box connection to the TV so you can watch TV even when the AVR is off. You won't get surround sound, but a lot of people are doing this for watching news, weather, etc.

If, for some reason, you need special settings on the TV only for your cable box, you should connect it directly to the TV and then the TV to the AVR with optical cable (I haven't tried this yet). You get the same options this way, you'll just have to jiggle with more remotes unless you have an universal one.

BTW, the HDMI cable carries the sound as well so why do you need the optical from the cable box to the TV?
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post #7277 of 7363
11/27/10 at 12:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Olbi View Post

I have the cable box connected with HDMI to the AVR and AVR with HDMI to the TV. Yes, you can get HD audio and video without issues (as long as your cable has HD).

This way you have only one HDMI going to the TV (e.g. if you have BD or DVD player, CD changer, etc. you connect all of them to the AVR and only the AVR to the TV) and your TV is always set on one and the same HDMI port. Depending of you AVR you can also set it to passthrough the cable box connection to the TV so you can watch TV even when the AVR is off. You won't get surround sound, but a lot of people are doing this for watching news, weather, etc.

If, for some reason, you need special settings on the TV only for your cable box, you should connect it directly to the TV and then the TV to the AVR with optical cable (I haven't tried this yet). You get the same options this way, you'll just have to jiggle with more remotes unless you have an universal one.

BTW, the HDMI cable carries the sound as well so why do you need the optical from the cable box to the TV?

Thank you. Actually, i don't know why i'm using optical. I do have my computer connected (HDMI). Do i also connect the PC to the A/V receiver? Will this bypass my having to switch between HDMI 1 or 2?
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post #7278 of 7363
11/27/10 at 6:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lipcrkr View Post


Thank you. Actually, i don't know why i'm using optical. I do have my computer connected (HDMI). Do i also connect the PC to the A/V receiver? Will this bypass my having to switch between HDMI 1 or 2?

Depending on what you are using the PC for: if you are just using the TV as a desktop extension, you can connect the PC through the AVR, but if you are watching DVDs/iTunes movies with it, you should leave it connected directly to the TV on HDMI 1 port of the TV and you should name it "PC" or "DVI" ("PC" was thr default, I believe), since this will give you better results (there is a plenty of information in this thread about this). In this case you'll have to switch between HDMI 1 and HDMI x, but again, this will give you better results when you are using the PC.
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post #7279 of 7363
11/27/10 at 6:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Olbi View Post

Depending on what you are using the PC for: if you are just using the TV as a desktop extension, you can connect the PC through the AVR, but if you are watching DVDs/iTunes movies with it, you should leave it connected directly to the TV on HDMI 1 port of the TV and you should name it "PC" or "DVI" ("PC" was thr default, I believe), since this will give you better results (there is a plenty of information in this thread about this). In this case you'll have to switch between HDMI 1 and HDMI x, but again, this will give you better results when you are using the PC.

While a direct connection is always best, not all AVRs have issues. My HTPC works just fine with the Samsung TV routed through an Onkyo HT-RC180, (and later a TX-NR708) with no issues at all.

Now my older Philips TV (42PFL7432D), that causes all sorts of freakouts with Windows Media Center - with the same AVRs. Even with a direct connection to the set.
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post #7280 of 7363
11/30/10 at 8:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rworne View Post


While a direct connection is always best, not all AVRs have issues. My HTPC works just fine with the Samsung TV routed through an Onkyo HT-RC180, (and later a TX-NR708) with no issues at all.

Now my older Philips TV (42PFL7432D), that causes all sorts of freakouts with Windows Media Center - with the same AVRs. Even with a direct connection to the set.

It is not about the AVR, it is about the TV - the B750 series have HDMI 1 set to be "special" (direct input, I guess), and this is only if it is named "PC" or "DVI" (other names might work as well, but I don't know them). People are using it for PC and gaming since it has zero (or negligible) lag. If the lag is important to you you'll either connect all your outputs to HDMI 1 and change some settings each time you switch between PC and the other devices, or you connect the PC to HDMI 1 and the AVR to one of the other HDMI ports and switch the inputs whenever required. Since I have a Harmony remote it is much easier for me to switch the inputs than to change the picture and the audio settings.

YMMV, of course.
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post #7281 of 7363
12/1/10 at 5:38am
Does anyone have a list of all the firmware versions that have been released for the LN52B750, and what each one fixed?

My TV has 1011, would it be worth upgrading from this firmware, I don't use any of the Internet funcationality in the TV?

What settings are lost when upgrading firmware?
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post #7282 of 7363
12/1/10 at 7:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by telc View Post

Does anyone have a list of all the firmware versions that have been released for the LN52B750, and what each one fixed?

My TV has 1011, would it be worth upgrading from this firmware, I don't use any of the Internet funcationality in the TV?

What settings are lost when upgrading firmware?

Samsung does not publish what was changed/fixed with each firmware.

I seem to remember that many/all of the custom settings are reset or if may just be the CE Dimming in the SM (don't worry if you do not know what this is). Just make a record of all your settings before doing an upgrade.

There are no negative reports of the latest (from a year ago) version 1012 so it should be safe to upgrade.
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post #7283 of 7363
12/1/10 at 7:24pm
Question,
If my ps3 firmware is upgraded to 3.50, and I play a blu-ray 3D movie on this tv, and use 3D glasses, will it work? Will I see the image in 3D?

OR do I still have to have a 3D TV, with the 3D player and glasses.

thanks,
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post #7284 of 7363
12/1/10 at 11:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sssstran View Post
Question,
If my ps3 firmware is upgraded to 3.50, and I play a blu-ray 3D movie on this tv, and use 3D glasses, will it work? Will I see the image in 3D?

OR do I still have to have a 3D TV, with the 3D player and glasses.

thanks,
You will still need to get a 3D TV. There's no real reason a 240Hz TV cannot do 3D - like this one - except that you have no way to sync the shutter glasses and the manufacturer won't put in the 3D support.

Has anyone tried to playback 3D content on this set? Just for grins? What does it do?
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post #7285 of 7363
12/6/10 at 1:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Olbi View Post

It is not about the AVR, it is about the TV - the B750 series have HDMI 1 set to be "special" (direct input, I guess), and this is only if it is named "PC" or "DVI" (other names might work as well, but I don't know them). People are using it for PC and gaming since it has zero (or negligible) lag. If the lag is important to you you'll either connect all your outputs to HDMI 1 and change some settings each time you switch between PC and the other devices, or you connect the PC to HDMI 1 and the AVR to one of the other HDMI ports and switch the inputs whenever required. Since I have a Harmony remote it is much easier for me to switch the inputs than to change the picture and the audio settings.

YMMV, of course.

I have my TV connected to a new Pioneer receiver. I use the HDMI "out" of the receiver to the HDMI "2" on the back of the TV. I have my PC connected to the HDMI "1" port on the TV from my computer. The problem is when i switch from watching TV on HDMI 2 and go to HDMI 1 for the desktop, i still hear the audio on my surround system from HDMI 2. I have to use my PC speakers to hear audio on my TV when on HDMI 1. How do i get audio from my computer to come out of the surround speakers when using HDMI 1?
I also use a Harmony remote (650).
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post #7286 of 7363
12/13/10 at 5:34am
I've got a couple of questions. I've searched here, but didn't see anything.

1. Can we disable the the pop-up window indicating the source and the resolution that shows up in the upper left hand corner every time you change the channel?

2. Can we disable any of the sources in the source list that we never use, so you don't have to cycle through them when hitting the source button (i.e. disable "TV" and "PC" sources)?

I know both are pretty minor, but it gets annoying after a while.

Thanks,
Nunny
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post #7287 of 7363
12/13/10 at 6:29am
I believe that the answer to both is no.
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post #7288 of 7363
12/17/10 at 9:20am
I just want to say how happy I have been with this TV! I bought it just under a year ago and it has met my every expectation.

Quick question though; do these have a picture-in-picture feature? I am too lazy to look for my owners manual and I didn't see anything in settings...
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post #7289 of 7363
12/17/10 at 9:29am
yes
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post #7290 of 7363
12/18/10 at 5:57pm
Does anyone have a PC connected to the HDMI1/DVI? I can't get sound from a separate source. In other words, when i use my desktop, i'm still getting sound from my cable TV source which is connected to the HDMI 2. I have an optical cable from my PC to the TV/AV receiver but i cant get audio from PC when on HDMI 1.
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