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Official Samsung LNxxB750 User Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 5

post #121 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by SiRcivic27 View Post

Thanks, I've started with the Cnet settings and adjusted from there but its just seems too dark and its missing detail during dark scenes. (like when watching shows similar NCIS)

I'll have to look into the AVS disc and the 360 patterns as I've never done anything like this before. Its my first LCD set, and HD for that matter.

Also, the one guy I talked to told me to dial down the contrast and brightness to a usable but not bright level so I don't damage anything before he calibrates it. Should I listen to him or can I set those to what I like without damaging anything?

To get proper gradation of your blacks:

Step 1: Set Mode to Movie, and, reduce Contrast to 75, Brightness to 46. The Contrast setting will deal with the blacks.

Step 2: Change mode to "Standard" and don't pay attention to changes in Backlight and Brightness.
post #122 of 1488
MFabien - I don't see how you are using a contrast of 75. Did you arrive at this through a disc, by eye, or by calibrations tools?

SIRcivic27 - I wouldn't worry about damaging anything. Never heard of that with an LCD.
post #123 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tandrin View Post

MFabien - I don't see how you are using a contrast of 75. Did you arrive at this through a disc, by eye, or by calibrations tools?

With the AVIA calibration DVD. Reducing Contrast from the CNET setting of 100 to 75 made the next to blackest square distinctive from the blackest one.
post #124 of 1488
Another question, when I bought the TV at best buy I got a monster cable HDMI cable. Because its 240hz I bought the new 1000HDX cable that cost me $130. I just read on Cnet that basically all cables are the same and I spent $110 to much on my HDMI cable.

Should I return my monster cable?
post #125 of 1488
Yes, return it! Digital signal are either there or not there. As long as there is no interference from poor insulation any HDMI will be fine (except for maybe long runs of 20' plus). Monoprice.com has very reliable and solidly built cables. They run less than $15, are 1.3a certified, and ships really fast.

If you look around on this forum you will see many threads debating this topic as well as discusions as to marketing by Monster and BB. The real question is - did the BB salesman believe what he/she was telling you?
post #126 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tandrin View Post

Yes, return it! Digital signal are either there or not there. As long as there is no interference from poor insulation any HDMI will be fine (except for maybe long runs of 20' plus). Monoprice.com has very reliable and solidly built cables. They run less than $15, are 1.3a certified, and ships really fast.

If you look around on this forum you will see many threads debating this topic as well as discusions as to marketing by Monster and BB. The real question is - did the BB salesman believe what he/she was telling you?

I bought it because it said on the box and the BB sales dude said it supported 240hz. Upon my recent research I found that the 240hz is done in the TV and the signal from everything is only 60hz at the most. It does seem that monster is banking on marketing and people such as myself that didnt research before they bought. I just researched the TV, not cables; at least I did afterwards!
post #127 of 1488
I know - it is some good marketing. They appeal to people who have bought high end products and then target them into feeling that you need expensive cables too. Cable quality is important for non-digital which is what they are still trying to market from. The boxes, as you mention, hit on all the important marketing keywords and phrases without lying...barely.
post #128 of 1488
I just got ripped off from BB my self bought 2 monsters 240hz they will be going back thanks for the info
post #129 of 1488
I just got my B750 first LCD graduated from a rear projection I just started playing with the settings and I was wondering if anybody could tell me why "screen fit" settings leave 2 wide stripes on each and "wide fit" is to big
post #130 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ofeach View Post

I just got my B750 first LCD graduated from a rear projection I just started playing with the settings and I was wondering if anybody could tell me why "screen fit" settings leave 2 wide stripes on each and "wide fit" is to big

"Screen fit" takes care of underscan for a 16:9 display. A 4:3 display in an HD channel will remain 4:3 with black bars on each side. If you watch a complete program in the 4:3 format, in an HD channel, you can press the "P.Size" button and if "Wide Fit" is not acceptable, press "P.Size" for a "Zoom" fit that you like.

The "Wide Fit" selection will be remembered for SD channels coming in with 480i resolution (and is better than configuring a Wide 480i format, instead of Normal, in your STB).
post #131 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfabien View Post

To get proper gradation of your blacks:

Step 1: Set Mode to Movie, and, reduce Contrast to 75, Brightness to 46. The Contrast setting will deal with the blacks.

Step 2: Change mode to "Standard" and don't pay attention to changes in Backlight and Brightness.

I don't understand Step 2. If you are in Movie mode and make those, changes why are you then switching to Standard mode?
post #132 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by SiRcivic27 View Post

I bought it because it said on the box and the BB sales dude said it supported 240hz. Upon my recent research I found that the 240hz is done in the TV and the signal from everything is only 60hz at the most. It does seem that monster is banking on marketing and people such as myself that didnt research before they bought. I just researched the TV, not cables; at least I did afterwards!

I bought the same cables because of an enthusiastic BB sales pitch. I carefully A-B compared the results of these Monster cables to that of inexpensive cables costing only $10. I am an audiophile and with analog material have noticed a great difference in my stereo system depending on the quality of the cables used. So if anything, I was somewhat prejudiced to find an improvement with the Monster HDMI cables, but I could not, whether it was with the STB connection or the Blu ray player connection to the TV.

Did you get a free DVD with your cables? I did. The disk explained how to get the most out of your cables, and essentially was an hours worth of propaganda telling you how great these cables are. Apparently Monster cables marketing took a lessen out of the story about the Emporer's New Clothes. If you are told enough there is a difference, you may begin to believe it, even though you are walking around naked, wearing nothing new.
post #133 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by wtwieder View Post

I don't understand Step 2. If you are in Movie mode and make those, changes why are you then switching to Standard mode?

Settings should first be made in Movie mode. Then when mode is changed, some of the basic Picture settings are automatically changed, for instance, Backlighting, Brightness and Sharpness. But Contrast remains unchanged.
post #134 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by SiRcivic27 View Post

[IMG]http://www.****************/img/i/P.jpg[/IMG]Another question, when I bought the TV at best buy I got a monster cable HDMI cable. Because its 240hz I bought the new 1000HDX cable that cost me $130. I just read on Cnet that basically all cables are the same and I spent $110 to much on my HDMI cable.

Should I return my monster cable?[IMG]http://***************/9/P/i.jpg[/IMG]

I would yes..Cables are cables you can get the same thing for $10-30 & it does the same job.
post #135 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfabien View Post

Settings should first be made in Movie mode. Then when mode is changed, some of the basic Picture settings are automatically changed, for instance, Backlighting, Brightness and Sharpness. But Contrast remains unchanged.

Hmmm, perhaps I am misunderstanding you. I am almost sure that the adjustments you make to each mode are independent for the mode you are adjusting.. ( What is the point of having different modes, if changes in one mode's parameters create an automatic change in another?)

However, perhaps you are suggesting that changes in the advanced setting options, present in the movie mode, but not offered in the Natural mode, DO create changes in Natural Mode. Still, the basic backlighting, brightness, and sharpness, settings are not part of those Advanced settings. A change in those basic parameters in Movie mode, does not seem in my set to get changed automatically in the other modes.
post #136 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by wtwieder View Post

Hmmm, perhaps I am misunderstanding you. I am almost sure that the adjustments you make to each mode are independent for the mode you are adjusting.. ( What is the point of having different modes, if changes in one mode's parameters create an automatic change in another?)

However, perhaps you are suggesting that changes in the advanced setting options, present in the movie mode, but not offered in the Natural mode, DO create changes in Natural Mode. Still, the basic backlighting, brightness, and sharpness, settings are not part of those Advanced settings. A change in those basic parameters in Movie mode, does not seem in my set to get changed automatically in the other modes.

Make setting changes, verify other HDMI inputs and see for yourself that many settings are copied.

Changing to a mode other than Movie will cause changes to basic picture settings, as I said before. Natural needs more Brightness, Backlighting and impacts Sharpness... check it out.
post #137 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfabien View Post

Make setting changes, verify other HDMI inputs and see for yourself that many settings are copied.

Changing to a mode other than Movie will cause changes to basic picture settings, as I said before. Natural needs more Brightness, Backlighting and impacts Sharpness... check it out.

i can NOT reproduce that or missunderstand it:
if i set brightness 5 on natural and then go to movie mode and set briightness to 10, then brightness in natural is still on 5.

and this is also how it should work according to the manual, at least on my set.
post #138 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by disorganizer View Post

i can NOT reproduce that or missunderstand it:
if i set brightness 5 on natural and then go to movie mode and set briightness to 10, then brightness in natural is still on 5.

and this is also how it should work according to the manual, at least on my set.

It's the other way around...

from Movie (the darkest setting) to Natural (a brighter setting) for which some settings will increase their value. The way you are testing it, by logic the settings would reduce... it was not designed that way.
post #139 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfabien View Post

Step 1: Set Mode to Movie, and, reduce Contrast to 75, Brightness to 46. The Contrast setting will deal with the blacks.

I thought contrast was for adjusting white level and brightness was for adjusting black level?
post #140 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToBeFrank View Post

I thought contrast was for adjusting white level and brightness was for adjusting black level?

If you don't have a Calibration DVD to display a gradation of White down to Black, you will not appreciate this. So there's little reason to pursue this discussion.
post #141 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfabien View Post

If you don't have a Calibration DVD to display a gradation of White down to Black, you will not appreciate this. So there's little reason to pursue this discussion.

Why would you presume I don't have one? I use the one freely available from this forum: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496.

The first sentence of the manual section for calibrating these settings states the following:
Quote:
Typical digital displays have controls for black-level (brightness), white-level (contrast or picture), color, tint (hue), and sharpness.

The Avia glossary manual available here, http://www.ovationmultimedia.com/fil...ssary_2007.pdf, states the following:

Quote:
brightness control - also called black level; adjusts the brightness of the reproduction of the black areas in a video image.

Quote:
contrast control - a control adjusting the intensity of a display's brightest highlights.
post #142 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToBeFrank View Post

Why would you presume I don't have one? I use the one freely available from this forum: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496.

The first sentence of the manual section for calibrating these settings states the following:

The Avia glossary manual available here, http://www.ovationmultimedia.com/fil...ssary_2007.pdf, states the following:

Don't know where you're going with this...

If you were able to get good gradation with blacks, that's the important thing.

I was able to correct the black saturation using the Contrast setting. If you don't agree with the way I did it, at this point, I will not lose any sleep on it.
post #143 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfabien View Post

Don't know where you're going with this...

If you were able to get good gradation with blacks, that's the important thing.

I was able to correct the black saturation using the Contrast setting. If you don't agree with the way I did it, at this point, I will not lose any sleep on it.

I was asking why you're suggesting changing black levels by changing a setting that (according to every calibration guide I've seen) is not related to black levels. There's no reason to get an attitude about it.
post #144 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfabien View Post

it was not designed that way.

in fact it is designed so that NO settings are taken from one mode to the other.
each mode and input has its independent settings.
i dont know where you get this info, but this is definitely not true.

no matter what setting you change in movie mode, the settings which were previously set in the other modes are untouched by this. and THAT is the way it was always with samsung tvs.

either i dont understand you correctly, or what you say is absolutely not true (at least for all samsung tvs i own and owned).
post #145 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by disorganizer View Post

in fact it is designed so that NO settings are taken from one mode to the other.
each mode and input has its independent settings.

no matter what setting you change in movie mode, the settings which were previously set in the other modes are untouched by this.

Correct.

The individual adjustment settings for each mode operate independently of one another from source-to-source, by design.

That means if you make picture adjustments in Standard mode while watching an OTA (coaxial) antenna signal and then switch to a HDMI Blu-ray connection, the Standard mode adjustments made will NOT transfer from one source to the other. The only exception to this may be a processing feature like Energy Saver Mode, but since I don't use it, I don't recall for sure off the top of my head.
post #146 of 1488
Quote:


To get proper gradation of your blacks:

Step 1: Set Mode to Movie, and, reduce Contrast to 75, Brightness to 46. The Contrast setting will deal with the blacks.

Step 2: Change mode to "Standard" and don't pay attention to changes in Backlight and Brightness.

To approach being calibrated properly, contrast has to be at 100 in Movie mode. Lowering it to 90, let alone 75, absolutely kills white levels. Black level is only one aspect of picture. Also, as has been stated already a few times, no sense in making adjustments in one mode and then switching to another mode.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ToBeFrank View Post

I thought contrast was for adjusting white level and brightness was for adjusting black level?

Yes, pretty much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sircivic27 View Post

Thanks, I've started with the Cnet settings and adjusted from there but its just seems too dark and its missing detail during dark scenes.

Yeah, Cnet's settings are too dark and Warm2 has far too much of a yellow/orange hue - a lot of the reviewers are so used to plasma that a really dim screen doesn't seem objectionable to them anymore. Try this:

Mode: Movie
Backlight: 5
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 48-51 (source dependent)
Sharpness: 0
Color: 52
Tint: G50/R50
Black tone: Darker
Dynamic contrast: Off
Gamma: 0
Color space: Auto
Flesh tone: 0
Edge enhancement: Off
xvYCC: Off

White Balance (source dependent)

Color tone: Warm1
Digital NR: Off
HDMI black level: Normal
Film mode: Off
Blur reduction: 10
Judder reduction: 0

Game Mode: Off
Energy saving: Off
post #147 of 1488
I stand corrected in many facets, discussed here earlier, to calibrate my B750.

I have now selected the Natural mode and made Picture setting changes to my liking in that mode. And they are:

Backlight 8
Contrast 90
Brightness 45
Sharpness 27
post #148 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by wtwieder View Post

I bought the same cables because of an enthusiastic BB sales pitch. I carefully A-B compared the results of these Monster cables to that of inexpensive cables costing only $10. I am an audiophile and with analog material have noticed a great difference in my stereo system depending on the quality of the cables used. So if anything, I was somewhat prejudiced to find an improvement with the Monster HDMI cables, but I could not, whether it was with the STB connection or the Blu ray player connection to the TV.

Did you get a free DVD with your cables? I did. The disk explained how to get the most out of your cables, and essentially was an hours worth of propaganda telling you how great these cables are. Apparently Monster cables marketing took a lessen out of the story about the Emporer's New Clothes. If you are told enough there is a difference, you may begin to believe it, even though you are walking around naked, wearing nothing new.

I did get the DVD and I put it in for the set-up calibration section but didn't watch anything else. The calibration section was horrible so I wasn't going to watch anything else.

Ordering some stuff from monoprice today, then will return the 1000HDX to BB once my cables get here.
post #149 of 1488
I have a problem with Sharpness levels being set any lower than 40. I have never seen a problem even if sharpness levels are set as high as 60. Why is it, that most calibrations recommend low sharpness levels of 0 to 20, when Samsung sets the default at 50? Don't you lose clarity of details that are inherent in the source, regardless of whether it is Bluray, or broadcast TV? To my eyes, I do. I suppose if you are bothered that these details make an actress look as old as she really is, you should set the sharpness to zero, but I want to see reality and not ignore it.
post #150 of 1488
Quote:
Originally Posted by wtwieder View Post

I have a problem with Sharpness levels being set any lower than 40. I have never seen a problem even if sharpness levels are set as high as 60. Why is it, that most calibrations recommend low sharpness levels of 0 to 20, when Samsung sets the default at 50? Don't you lose clarity of details that are inherent in the source, regardless of whether it is Bluray, or broadcast TV? To my eyes, I do. I suppose if you are bothered that these details make an actress look as old as she really is, you should set the sharpness to zero, but I want to see reality and not ignore it.

I find it hard to determine sharpness based on a film or video. When using a calibration disc, Bluray or DVD, the sharpness patterns make it all to obvious the difference between 0,20, and 40. At 40 there are jaggies and what appears to be banded and pixelated lines.
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