2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 345

Yeah, I know. I just ran a separate cable to the TV for kicks. Have read that there might be a marginal benefit in video to doing so.

One remaining question I have about checkerboard is this, though. For some reason, I can't change any of the settings on depth, etc., using the 3D button. When I try, it says that 2D to 3D is not available. But I'm not trying to turn 2D to 3D, I'm trying to adjust 3D picture. Is this just the way it is? I'm happy with the 3D image as it is, but of course if it's possible, it would be fun to tinker...

Does anyone know if all WD65C9 models have grayscale and full CMS adjustments or is it firmware dependent?

Never heard otherwise. Firmware just takes out sharpedge and deepfield imager compared to the 737s. All the color controls in the Picture+ menu are the same as the other models. Oh, no Perfect Tint either, but if you're in the Picture+ menu, I don't think that matters.

Hi everyone,

I'm a newbie here.....I have browsed various forums related to the Mits 65737 tv and the Panasonic 310 blu ray disc player, but I've found conflicting information.

Basically, I am planning to buy the Panasonic SC-BTT370 home theater system (which uses the 310 bd player). Do I need to use an adapter? I know that the Panasonic players have historically supported the Mitsu 3D format, but I am now reading things about needing an adapter because of the HDMI 1.3 vs 1.4 versions.

I figured that I would just get the home theater system as this would eliminate the need for separate receiver.

Will someone pls help me decipher what I need?

Many thanks to anyone who will help!

If the player will output "checkerboard" for 3D then all you need is HDMI 1.3 to get the highest audio quality from Blu-Ray playback. You do not need the 3D adapter for Blu-Ray playback if your player outputs checkerboard 3D format. You may need the adapter for other 3D signals like cable or satellite. I have a Panasonic BDT-300 player and loss less audio is sent directly to my 4 year old Onkyo receiver using HDMI 1.3, nothing else is needed.

Mike T

Hi everyone, I've had my WD-60c9 for almost a year now and there was a little bit of a hiccup in the beginning with my hdmi ports and my main board which got replaced for free. After all of that, everything was great until recently. I moved into a new apartment in the same building, one floor up and ever since I moved the TV, the picture seems really dim. It's watchable during the day and night but you can definitely tell that something is off.

It's only a year old so I don't think I've watched enough TV for the bulbs to be going out. What are your thoughts?

Thanks.

You should have a spare bulb/lamp on hand anyway and it sounds like moving it caused something. How many hours on the bulb/lamp?

I just joined the world of DLPs by getting a bargain on a new 60C9. Seriously the picture quality is awesome, I really don't get all the hate.

But there is a problem, the geometry is really out of wack, with some very serious curvature towards the bottom of the screen:

EDIT: I can't post the url because of an antispam device.
This is the eddited url:
hxxp://imgur.com/a/0QCYD#rUIxn

I'd really appreciate some advice on what I can do. The TV is less then a week old, but I can't replace it with the retailer because they don't have any more in stock. Compared to the geometry pics I looked at, starting at page 230, mine looks unusually bad. I can't get the white bars to show all the way, even if I follow the manual geometry correction instructions from the service manual.

Edit: I live 52 miles from the nearest certified tech, and I have a squaretrade warranty I just got yesterday (before I fully appreciated the geometry issues)

Thank you very much, Mike, for this clarification!!!!

I'm going to call Mitsubishi to get one under warranty and hopefully after they examine it, I'll get to keep the new one for free.

I should have no more than 2000 hours on it. Is there anyway to check exactly how many?

I've done the firmware update, resetting by unplugging as well as holding onto the power button. Nothing's worked so I'm guessing its the lamp.

Press MENU then press 2-4-7-0

mtallent,

Just a quick check: With Panasonic 3d player, via HDMI to xx837, no adapter needed as checkerboard is output. One would still require the emitter and glasses. Right?

Will the Panny work if the HDMI is sent to display through an AVR? Would AVR have to be 1.4? If the answer to the first part is no, do Panny's have two HDMI outputs?

No, I haven't even tried 3-D on my Mitsu. The answers to my above questions (and many many more Q's from other forum posters from release of tv until the last 8 months or so) always seemed to be tenuous at best, and even changed a couple of months down the road.

So your clarification of these issues is of great help.

Mike

Yes, as I stated above the player works fine through my 4 year old Onkyo AVR. If you want the IR glasses then you need an emitter. I use the Xpand DLP link glasses and you need nothing more with them and there is a slight advantage as they block the DLP link "flash" which the emitter glasses do not. But if you set very far away from the set (not a good idea) then the DLP link glasses my not sync reliably. I set 7-8 feet from my 65837 set and the glasses work just fine for me.

Mike T

Mike T
Thanks. Clear answer including a product that works, and how well.

The distance from DLP concern: In your experience would 10 to 14ft work out OK?
What would be your extimate of the "Off-center" performance of the system. Some seating positions I've got are in excess of 15deg from center of screen.

Again, thanks for your concise answer.

MikeK

14 feet might be a problem with DLP link, I have not tried it that far away, my set does not have a big enough screen to be able see the 1080P resolution that far away. Ambient lighting will also effect the results.

Mike T

If it is a week old, then it is still under Mitsu warranty and that's really your only hope, 52 miles or not (besides, he'll be coming to you). You couldn't get the inner white bars on the 4:3 lines bottom third to straighten out at all with the manual correction? I *think* those lines should only effect you on a 4:3 SD content. Btw, is that pic "default" or after you messed with the manual geometry?

Maybe others would disagree, but I wouldn't worry too much about the outer white lines. Maybe gamers would. . . do you game with it a lot?

Do you actually notice a problem when watching TV rather than just staring at that menu?

Mitsu has been known to argue about replacing a light engine over geometry unless it is particularly bad. . .I have a feeling they'd argue over that one. But you can always try.

Quick Question.

If I update the firmware on my 82837, will I lose my picture settings and calibration?
I had it professionally calibrated, and would hate to lose everything.

Any information on this would be appreciated.

Thanks,
sfin54

No

thank you!

has anyone heard that Mitsu is going to stop making these DLP TV's?
some sales guy was telling me this at an appliance store and trying to get me to buy one of his remaining stock

They discontinued the 60" and 65" and introduced a 92" so no they aren't stopping production of DLP, but the opposite actually at least for the near future.

What about the 73"?

A buddy of mine has a 60737 that when powering on has a flashing green power light and goes to the blue Mitsubishi screen then shuts off. He said he would sell it to me for $50. Is this a easy fix or should i pass on this one? Thanks for any help.

They're still making that size and I think they will for some time.

They discontinued the 60" and 65"? When did that happen?

I'm not terribly surprised they'd discontinue the 60", but the 65" does somewhat surprise me.

There gets to be a point where you have to wonder if it is economical as the volumes go down. However, having said that, my general response is "so what?" so far as it impacting someone's buying decision today. I always reccomend buying a long-term (4 or 5 years) warranty from a 3rd party source (links in the FAQ) anyway, as they are relatively cheap.

They stopped production as of this year's models. I would say it's due to the the prices of larger LCD and Plasmas coming down in price and them adding the 92".

And personally I would never buy an extended warranty for anything.

They are only focusing on large screens from 73" 82" 92". 73" inch being their smallest screen size.

I normally agree with you 100%, but they made a compelling case for it in the FAQ potion of this thread considering how much you save with DLP's per screen size inch even when factoring in an extended warranty. It will replace your set if there are no longer suitable replacement parts years down the line which could be a concern considering DLP.

I would take it for $50. Maybe replace the bulb ($100), and if still not working, replace the light engine. ($450-$750) depending on if you install yourself or pay to have it installed. Worse case you pay $850 for a 60" DLP. Best case, $150.

How many hours on the lamp? Also check the error buffer, when the set shuts down it will log an error unless the main is causing the shut down.

Good luck,
Jim