2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 346

So would the screen still turn on even if the bulb is bad?

It could, but usually not with this model. The most common thing I've seen with these sets having this problem, is the main or firmware. The other symptom is, the Mitsu blue screen will come up and lock there.

...the 2010 WD65-c10 model? I know Dell sells them but there seems to be no thread on this series and I was wondering if anyone from this thread knew about the reason. Thanks!

If it's not locked on the blue screen perhaps the set is going into safe mode when shutting down maybe the bulbs on its last legs, who knows. For fifty bucks I'd roll the dice and try a new bulb also I'd take the back off and dust everything put it back together and go from there. If it works do a firmware update and you got a hell of a deal if it doesn't work and you don't want to go any further than sell the bulb or sell the lot to someone else. I just passed my second year with my 60737 with no problems after firmware updates and I still enjoy the set a lot.

It will throw an error code if it shuts down from the lamp.

Update : So I talked the guy down to $30 for the TV. Then i had a repair guy come out, and he had a new main board from a 65 that some one put a Wii remote throw the screen. He put that in and it works great now. Wanted $150 for the repair but i talked him down to $120 so i scored a 60737 with a manufactured date of March 2010 for $150

You are my kind of guy. Bargaining is everything.

What's the catch?

Mitsubishi sells the 73" LED - DLP for $1,350. A similar version LCD sells for $3,000. How much of a difference can there be between the two technologies?

You got a hell of a deal enjoy.

So I recently got a 2009 60" C9 model and have been reading through this thread. The 3D setup seems pretty complicated, so I just wanted to make sure i have this right. I plan on running all my devices (xbox, blu-ray) through a 3d ready HDMI 1.4 AVR. Then from the receiver to the mits 3d adapter, and from the adapter to the TV. Other than the adapter, all I need is a couple of DLP link glasses and I'm good to go for 3d content, correct? Is there anything wrong with this setup? Thanks for your reply.

Sounds like you got it to me. That's how I had mine set up as well.

I am having trouble updating the firmware on my 82837 from 11.01 to 11.03.

I get through the process until I am supposed to get the "update has been completed" pop up, it never shows up, and the up date never takes.

Formated flash drive
extracted files to drive
unplugged TV
inserted drive
pluged in power
"status" drive flashes green, then solid green
...never get "update complete" pop up
power on
In menu, still at 11.01

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Thanks,
sfin54

Hello all-

Local best buy has an 82" Mitsubishi DLP for $1600. Looks great, but am worried about problems with Mitsubishi DLPs. Are the newer sets more reliable than the ones that got all the bad press a few years back?

Is this a price that is too good to pass up or is that price range fairly common?

Thanks

I don't recall which file but I had a file that wasn't opened, once that file was opened and put on the drive it updated.

I would say they are more reliable. I have had DLP for 7+ years now. One thing to be careful about the 82". It uses the same as the 73" and some complain that it is kind of a dim picture. I have not witnessed this, only read about it.

That day might be today. The black crush isn't caused by the adapter as much as it is caused by a mismatch of video formats between the source and the adapter. The adapter is looking for video level RGB signal and your source is sending it PC levels.

If you're using a PS3, use these settings:

Settings> Video Settings> BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)> RGB

Settings> Display Settings> RGB Full Range (HDMI)> Limited

More about it here. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post20462332
__________________

I surely hope not!

Easy modification here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post20085346 to use standard CR2032 batteries in the X102s.

The pictures were taken with geometry correction disabled. If I manually correct I can "improve" things, but the lines look wavy and the picture quality from my HTPC noticeably degrades. After a little while of getting used to the TV I think I'm happy to accept the geometry issues in order to retain 1:1 pixel matching and great visual quality. In typical 16:9 content I rarely notice the geometry distortion, although as you said it becomes obvious watching 4:3.


I'm a little confused about this, perhaps you can help. I connect to my 60C9 via an HDMI cable from my HTPC. I played around with Full/Extended levels versus Standard and by looking at some reference videos it seems that the TV only supports Standard levels, which is just fine.

What I don't understand is why the 3D adapter would introduce crushing. If you are providing extended levels direct to the TV, won't the TV be crushing blacks anyway? And if you are providing standard levels, then the 3D adapter won't change anything?

Read the posts at the link I provided. Most TVs require video levels, as does the adapter. Some TVs, including Mitsubishi, are designed to also be used with a computer, and can detect both PC and video levels.

An easy check is any THX DVD, which has test patterns. Go to the screen that shows the black bars. I believe you will be able to discern 7 gray-black bars when the brightness control is adjusted properly. If you have black crush, the 3 darkest black bars will all be the same shade of black, and run together, with no adjustment possible. It's very obvious when it's there.

I had the black crush until I reset the PS3 as discussed.

This isn't entirely accurate as these Mitsubishi sets don't resolve picture information all the way down to RGB black. They only display a little bit below video black so they are not really a very good solution as a PC monitor unless your PC can compress the RGB signal to match video standards.

I don't think you fully understand. This might help. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=967106

Nevertheless, the TV will accept either Y Pb/Cb PrCr or RGB from the PS3 without crushing blacks, but the adapter will not. You must set the PS3 correctly to not crush blacks with the adapter. Screen up any pluge pattern to test this in both modes.

You're sure you formatted it as FAT32 and not NTFS, right?

This morning my son sprayed pet stain cleaning solution all over the front of my WD-73C9. I was not aware of this for about 15 minutes. In that time the solution pooled at the bottom of the cabinet and has now started moving up the inside of the screen. This is causing large dark/black areas of the screen.
I called Mits support and they were of no help at all. I called my local repair that had done some warranty work for me previously. He said to remove the screen from the unit and wipe it down with a lint free rag.

Does this sound correct? Is there a coating on the inside of the screen that I need to be worried about? If there isn't a coating why would the solution be climbing up the screen?

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Bruce



UPDATE:

I pulled off the screen and found that the fluid had wicked up in between the 2 sheets of plastic. I have attempted to dry in between the screens using a lint free cloth but I am not optimistic as there is a significant color discrepancy between where I have wiped and where I did not. Hopefully this is residual moisture that will dry.

I just had to replace the lamp in my 18 month old 73837, and all I can say is Wow!

I'd been very pleased with the picture, and had dialed it in pretty well, I thought, over a year ago using an X-Rite meter and CalMAN. The one thing that nagged at me was that I thought the picture could be a bit brighter. The best readings I could get for overall luminance were ~22 to 24 fL. But, the grey scale measured very well, the colors were good looking, and the set was very nice to watch. When people would come over, they'd invariably remark on what a great picture the set had.

Then I recently got a new smaller screen for the bedroom, and it's a backlit LCD. It seemed very bright, and I wanted to see how I could dial it in, so I hooked up the meter to my laptop. The luminance out of the box was reading 75 fL.

It had seemed to me that the 73837 had been gradually getting less bright, but gradual changes aren't quite so noticeable. But when I now measured the luminance again to check, it was only measuring around 6 fL. I immediately ordered a new lamp, hoping that would restore what I knew to be a very good picture.

A week later the lamp arrived, and after turning off the TV and waiting an hour for it to cool, as per the instructions, I popped it open and removed the old lamp.

I was shocked to discover that the glass stem inside the bulb, holding the filament, was actually pointed downward at about a 45 degree angle. It looks like it had partially melted near its base, and gravity took over. I can't believe it was still pumping out any light at all.

So I installed the new lamp, turned on the TV, and was amazed at how much brighter the picture was. Without changing any settings, I measured the luminance at 46 fL. I'll let the lamp settle in a bit before I really try to tweak it, but the picture is better than it ever was before.

So now I can't help but think that the original lamp was defective from the beginning, and just got worse over time. When the set was brand new, it never had such a bright display. I had been happy with it, because the colors were very good. But this is just a revelation.

I guess maybe I should have sprung for a pro calibration back when it was new. The calibrator probably could have told me right off the bat that something wasn't quite right. Oh well....

Anyway, a very simple lamp replacement procedure has now gotten me an essentially brand new 73" display with an amazing picture.

Just be very careful when putting the screens back on. The static electricity will attract any particles flying in the air, or carpet fibers, hair etc. and, you won't notice until you have it back on, turn it on and see a big black spot where the dust/fibers are.

Thanks for the tip. I laid the frame flat without removing the actual plastic from the frame. I was able to remove the parts that hold the screen in the frame and then separated the sheets of plastic only in the corner that had the problem.

I then kept the screens separated and let them thoroughly dry. I reassembled and installed back on the unit. I turned it on, and it looks to be good. I don't see any debris or spots on the screen.

Looks to be mission successful for me.

75fL

Normally, recommended output for a direct view TV is 30-40 fL.

I guess that is what sells so many LCDs, as Joe Sixpack thinks it has "pop" in the store, because it's cranked so high.

What's new in mitsubishi?

Yeah, the first thing I did with that TV was turn the backlight WAY down.