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2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 348

post #10411 of 11222
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milmanias View Post

No; you will need the DLP Link glasses if you don't want the green tint. I haven't used my set much for 3d; when there's more stuff I'll get the Ultra Clears.

Ok, so I have the 2009 73C9 and I returned the Mits "starter kit" after seeing the green tint. I think I'll go with DLP-link.

If I'm using a PS3 as my 3D source, will I need the 3DA-1 adapter? If the TV takes care of the sync flashes to trigger the glasses, why would I even need the 3DA-1 adapter?
post #10412 of 11222
Quote:
Originally Posted by rvaidyan View Post

Ok, so I have the 2009 73C9 and I returned the Mits "starter kit" after seeing the green tint. I think I'll go with DLP-link.

If I'm using a PS3 as my 3D source, will I need the 3DA-1 adapter? If the TV takes care of the sync flashes to trigger the glasses, why would I even need the 3DA-1 adapter?

The adapter converts frame-packed, Side by side, and Top/bottom modes to the native checkerboard, so the TV can display it. You need the adapter to make the TV compatible with the "new" 3D specification.

DLP-Link glasses vs IR (infrared) glasses w/emitter is another subject, and is the two ways that the TV communicates with the glasses to sync them with the TV.
post #10413 of 11222
Has anyone had a chance to use their Mack warranty. I remember awhile back we discussed the usefullness of it, and many owners here bought one. I was just wondering if there were any examples of it in action.
post #10414 of 11222
@Av8tr I'd be curious to know also simply because I have a possible tech issue with my Samsung DLP under warranty lol.

Actually though what I'm wondering is how to go about replacing the bulb in my Mits 65C9? I can tell that the picture seems a bit dim compared to my Samsung which uses an LED lamp. I have had the TV for almost 2 years so I imagine I've exceeded the bulb life by quite a bit.

Suggestions on where to get the bulb and how to actually put it in? I've never taken my nice TVs apart before.
post #10415 of 11222
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwhyrock View Post

@Av8tr I'd be curious to know also simply because I have a possible tech issue with my Samsung DLP under warranty lol.

Actually though what I'm wondering is how to go about replacing the bulb in my Mits 65C9? I can tell that the picture seems a bit dim compared to my Samsung which uses an LED lamp. I have had the TV for almost 2 years so I imagine I've exceeded the bulb life by quite a bit.

Suggestions on where to get the bulb and how to actually put it in? I've never taken my nice TVs apart before.

Buy the lamp from Mits it will come with a new housing and the replacement procedure is in the manual. It's very easy to do.
post #10416 of 11222
You can order it online at Mits site too. I bought a new bulb at about 18mos, replaced the old one, and kept the old one as an emergency spare. Since we have two of these TVs in the house (a 60" and a 65"), it is a spare for both of them.
post #10417 of 11222
Quote:
Originally Posted by Av8tr View Post

Has anyone had a chance to use their Mack warranty. I remember awhile back we discussed the usefullness of it, and many owners here bought one. I was just wondering if there were any examples of it in action.

I cancelled my Mack warranty after I read the fine print. You cannot actually see the fine print until after you purchase the warranty and I can seen why. The warranty is worthless if you do not have an authorized service center within 30 miles. That is unless you want to pay to ship your TV to a service center.
post #10418 of 11222
Quote:
Originally Posted by crawsfire View Post

I cancelled my Mack warranty after I read the fine print. You cannot actually see the fine print until after you purchase the warranty and I can seen why. The warranty is worthless if you do not have an authorized service center within 30 miles. That is unless you want to pay to ship your TV to a service center.

that's pretty serious. I would imagine there are plenty of authorized service centers around urban areas? Some facts on this would be good to know for everyone on this site since Mack Warranties are sort of the "approved" warranty to get based on word of mouth around these forums. I have 3 lol, but I also love in a fairly big city (Spokane)
post #10419 of 11222
Hey everybody,

Caught up with the whole thread by reading the majority of it. I had to register and let you guys know what's going on since a lot of you seem to know your stuff with this particular brand of television. I tried to update my mitsubishi to 11.03 because I don't know why to be quite honest. Have had it for two years and literally not one problem at all. I honestly thought maybe it would improve speed or most importantly improve the 3D is some kind of way. So I took a chance s and so far it has been a major failure. I am now stuck on the welcome blue screen with the green power light flashing repeatedly... Only way to turn it off is by unplugging. Now I tried all my different drives to try and update, but no success. I tried it with the Tar file and no go. Tried it with the "MITS" file and no go. I took all the files out the "MITS" file and still no go damn it. Now most of you said there should be NO folders, but when I take everything out of "MITS" folder it has four folders called, "resources, TestPattern, TvmData and xml" with many more folders in those. At this point I am lost and to be quite honest, terrified that I messed up my favorite thing in the whole wide world
If you guys can help me get through this I would be so grateful you have no idea (Please...You ever seen a 23 yr. old man cry?). I just hope I didn't brick my television for trying to update the firmware. Yes my drives and hard drives and SD cards with usb adapters were all freshly formatted to FAT32.

P.S. Sorry for making my first post so long and is the 3D w/ the Mitsubishi kit suppose to make Blu-Ray 3D movies (Saw 3D and Resident Evil) come out of the screen at you like in the movie theaters? Not for nothing, but when it (t.v.) was working it was little effects, but nothing major like body parts flying at you or anything drastic. I feel like I'm not getting my moneys worth with it just seeming more in depth, but not ACTUALLY coming out of the screen? Thanks in advance everyone
post #10420 of 11222
I don't have much advice that hasn't been covered here concerning your attempt to update and the blue screen, but............

The resident evil 3D movie is one of the worst as far as effects. They were added after the movie was made and the effects are minimal.
Try some of the imax 3d blu-ray movies. They are pretty cheap on Amazon. Be careful because they sell some of them in 2D and 3D.
post #10421 of 11222
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwhyrock View Post
that's pretty serious. I would imagine there are plenty of authorized service centers around urban areas? Some facts on this would be good to know for everyone on this site since Mack Warranties are sort of the "approved" warranty to get based on word of mouth around these forums. I have 3 lol, but I also love in a fairly big city (Spokane)
Well I don't live in a big city but I do live 35 miles from the capital of my state and I told the VP at Mack (who was trying to convince me to keep the coverage) that if he could find an authorized service center that would come to my house that I would'nt cancel.....and he couldn't.
post #10422 of 11222
Quote:
Originally Posted by fatjoejr2001 View Post


I am now stuck on the welcome blue screen with the green power light flashing repeatedly... Only way to turn it off is by unplugging. Now I tried all my different drives to try and update, but no success. I tried it with the Tar file and no go. Tried it with the "MITS" file and no go. I took all the files out the "MITS" file and still no go damn it. Now most of you said there should be NO folders, but when I take everything out of "MITS" folder it has four folders called, "resources, TestPattern, TvmData and xml" with many more folders in those.

I think someone else had the same issue, I think they successfully updated with a thumb drive sent from Mits. I would start clean on a different thumb drive if you have one make sure there are no unopened folders on the thumb drive.
post #10423 of 11222
Quote:
Originally Posted by crawsfire View Post

The resident evil 3D movie is one of the worst as far as effects. They were added after the movie was made and the effects are minimal.

It was shot in 3D, it was not added in after.
post #10424 of 11222
Thanks for the replies, but what I don't get is exactly how to put the files on your thumb drive. I just bought a Toshiba 4GB drive on my way home from school since I heard they are usually successful with the update. It was originally formatted to FAT32 so I just put the files down. First I tried the files plus that "MITS" folder and it didn't work. I now just tried the files along with the "MITS" folder extracted (Like I said previously it still had the four folders inside the MITS folder) and that didn't work either. Now I am just gonna try putting the TAR file without extracting it. After that I am fresh out of ideas and don't really know what to do after that. I am begging please help me do something that might work or help me to see what I might be doing wrong. I just want my television back and I know it was really dumb to mess with it, even though it was working flawlessly. Thanks in advance.
post #10425 of 11222
I got my TV back (Thank god!) and I am updated to 11.03. As I write this I am watching Tron Legacy 3D. I was wrong about the 3D because I watched IMAX Deep Sea 3D and it was beyond what I imagined. Thanks and I appreciate my Mitsubishi 73737 so much more now.
post #10426 of 11222
So what did you do to get it back?
post #10427 of 11222
Very interesting situation with my bulb. I have had bulbs go out in the past, and they simply stopped working.. burned out., not getting visually dim at all. My current 15 month old TV has 4700 hours on it, and starting yesterday, I noticed the TV was very very dim. One time it was normal brightness (to my eye) and the next time I turned it on, dim. From the side, you cannot even tell the TV is on, it is that dim. Luckily I got a 2 year warranty and am getting a new bulb shipped to me for free. But, I thought it was interesting that it gets this dim and does not simply burn out and stop working.
post #10428 of 11222
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4mula1 View Post

Very interesting situation with my bulb. I have had bulbs go out in the past, and they simply stopped working.. burned out., not getting visually dim at all. My current 15 month old TV has 4700 hours on it, and starting yesterday, I noticed the TV was very very dim. One time it was normal brightness (to my eye) and the next time I turned it on, dim. From the side, you cannot even tell the TV is on, it is that dim. Luckily I got a 2 year warranty and am getting a new bulb shipped to me for free. But, I thought it was interesting that it gets this dim and does not simply burn out and stop working.

Glad to hear you're getting a free one --I personally never do extended bulb warranties because I don't want to wait for one to be shipped to me while my TV is unuseable. Instead I order a spare at the one year mark, put it in when I receive it, and put the old one in the closet as the emergency spare. Then I can run the new one until it dies or gets really dim without worrying about the possibility of having to wait for a bulb to be shipped to me while the TV can't be used. And since we have two of these sets in the house, the one emergency spare can cover both TVs.
post #10429 of 11222
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4mula1 View Post

Very interesting situation with my bulb. I have had bulbs go out in the past, and they simply stopped working.. burned out., not getting visually dim at all. My current 15 month old TV has 4700 hours on it, and starting yesterday, I noticed the TV was very very dim. One time it was normal brightness (to my eye) and the next time I turned it on, dim. From the side, you cannot even tell the TV is on, it is that dim. Luckily I got a 2 year warranty and am getting a new bulb shipped to me for free. But, I thought it was interesting that it gets this dim and does not simply burn out and stop working.

I had the exact same problem with my 73c9, only i had far fewer hours. Mitsubishi sent me a new bulb. I'm just concerned about the same thing happening again. I expect the bulbs to last longer than 1 year. I guess we'll see how long the replacement bulb lasts.
post #10430 of 11222
So I am thinking about purchasing a 65" Mitsu DLP, either the WD-65837 or the WD-65738. I was wondering what all of you thought would be the better the buy. I haven't found the WD-65837 for much under 1800$, which to me isn't that bad of a price. I currently have a 50" SXRD, with OB problems, and I got the Sony replacement offer, KDL-55NX810, which has been a good TV but I am a rear projection guy so that is why I am looking at Mitsu DLPs now. I have found the WD-65738 for around 1200$ but I am wondering if it is worth spending the extra money and getting the WD-65837, even though it is a couple years old now. Let me know. Thanks!
post #10431 of 11222
Why not just get a new 73", if you are near a HHGreg they have them in the showrooms.

http://www.hhgregg.com/mitsubishi-73...v/item/WD73640
post #10432 of 11222
I did think about that, but honestly I think that 73" in my living room would be too big, if a TV can be too big . I actually like the size of my 55", but a 65" would still fit and not be over whelming in the room. If I wasn't in an apartment and had a dedicated basement room for a theater, I would definitely consider the 73".
post #10433 of 11222
Quote:
Originally Posted by ddjensen View Post

had a dedicated basement room for a theater, I would definitely consider the 73".

The 73" is not large enough for a dedicated basement room and/or theater.
post #10434 of 11222
Fair enough, if I had a dedicated room I would do a 120" screen with a Sony Qualia projector and be done with it. But my main question is not regarding the size, it's regarding the model. Is it worth spending the money to get a 837 or 838 or even the 840 or is the 7xx or the 6xx fine. I don't need the 16 speakers on the 840 or 838, I know that. I really like the 738 but I found an 837 and was wondering if they are nice sets or if I should just get the 738.
post #10435 of 11222
Quote:
Originally Posted by ddjensen View Post

Fair enough, if I had a dedicated room I would do a 120" screen with a Sony Qualia projector and be done with it. But my main question is not regarding the size, it's regarding the model. Is it worth spending the money to get a 837 or 838 or even the 840 or is the 7xx or the 6xx fine. I don't need the 16 speakers on the 840 or 838, I know that. I really like the 738 but I found an 837 and was wondering if they are nice sets or if I should just get the 738.

Do not buy a 2009 get the 738 or 840. The 2009 doesn't handle 3d as well and the 2010 and later sets are easier to calibrate. Unless the 2009 is screaming cheap it just doesn't make sense.
post #10436 of 11222
I picked up a used (6 months old) 65737 for $400 on craigslist

I agree IF you want 3d the newer ones are a better bet.

I think the 837 has the iris, which is a toss up as to whether people like it or not - though I could be mixing up models!
post #10437 of 11222
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

Do not buy a 2009 get the 738 or 840. The 2009 doesn't handle 3d as well and the 2010 and later sets are easier to calibrate. Unless the 2009 is screaming cheap it just doesn't make sense.

Thank you gtgray for your opinion. I actually think I am taking your opinion and pacofortaco's and going with the WD-73738.
post #10438 of 11222
My 2009 Mits has started turning off on its own, and the front light on the tv starts to blink in an amber color. Hitting help on the harmony one remote brings the tv back up, after a warm up period longer than just turning it on.

Bulb going bad or something more serious?
post #10439 of 11222
Amber? According to the owner's manual, it can blink in Green or Red.

It says a lamp failure would be steady yellow.
post #10440 of 11222
A slow blinking yellow light indicates lamp door open or no lamp installed according to the manual. Lamp failure would be steady red.This is why you need a spare lamp on hand.
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