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2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 350

post #10471 of 10987
9/25/11 at 7:42am
My 2009 Mits has started turning off on its own, and the front light on the tv starts to blink in an amber color. Hitting help on the harmony one remote brings the tv back up, after a warm up period longer than just turning it on.

Bulb going bad or something more serious?
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post #10472 of 10987
9/25/11 at 8:28am
Amber? According to the owner's manual, it can blink in Green or Red.

It says a lamp failure would be steady yellow.
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post #10473 of 10987
9/25/11 at 9:45am
A slow blinking yellow light indicates lamp door open or no lamp installed according to the manual. Lamp failure would be steady red.This is why you need a spare lamp on hand.
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post #10474 of 10987
9/25/11 at 11:04am
According to the Owner's Manual I have, there is no blinking yellow light.
It shows that a solid yellow light means either lamp failure or no lamp installed.
A blinking red light means lamp access door open or not secured.
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post #10475 of 10987
9/25/11 at 11:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhulett View Post

My 2009 Mits has started turning off on its own, and the front light on the tv starts to blink in an amber color. Hitting help on the harmony one remote brings the tv back up, after a warm up period longer than just turning it on.

Bulb going bad or something more serious?

I have a wd-60c9 that did this about 10days ago while playing ps3.
Hasnt done it since.
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post #10476 of 10987
9/25/11 at 2:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkEHansen View Post

According to the Owner's Manual I have, there is no blinking yellow light.
It shows that a solid yellow light means either lamp failure or no lamp installed.
A blinking red light means lamp access door open or not secured.

The online manual for 2009 shows what I stated earlier.
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post #10477 of 10987
9/26/11 at 12:48pm
I don't think it is red or yellow, but looks more like the same color of the dtv recording light, orange or amber. The other funny thing, is it has only happened while watching Directv, although that is what is on 70%+ of the time.

I guess I will probably order a bulb, but it wouldn't surprise me if it was something to do with the directv and hdmi handshake, although the tv has always been on for awhile.
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post #10478 of 10987
10/2/11 at 8:51pm
Hello everybody. I just got a 60737 off craigslist and was wandering what the best route would be to get it in 3d. Obvious choice would be the 3dc-1000 kit but I've seen other kits that claim to work. Any recommendations and also keep price in consideration thank you.
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post #10479 of 10987
10/3/11 at 7:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gQQgsJr View Post

Hello everybody. I just got a 60737 off craigslist and was wandering what the best route would be to get it in 3d. Obvious choice would be the 3dc-1000 kit but I've seen other kits that claim to work. Any recommendations and also keep price in consideration thank you.

I use the 3dc-1000 with good results. No other kits I know of. Plus the glasses are real comfortable.
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post #10480 of 10987
10/5/11 at 4:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

Do not buy a 2009 get the 738 or 840. The 2009 doesn't handle 3d as well and the 2010 and later sets are easier to calibrate. Unless the 2009 is screaming cheap it just doesn't make sense.

Hmm. I have a 2009 73-737. Should I not even bother with 3d? I was thinking about picking up everything around Christmas time.
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post #10481 of 10987
10/5/11 at 7:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsrdlr View Post

Hmm. I have a 2009 73-737. Should I not even bother with 3d? I was thinking about picking up everything around Christmas time.

My comments were in the context of a purchase decision. There are number of ways the 2010 is better. The 3d adapter is unecessary and btw the 3d adapter screws with the color just by being plugged in. Also you can't turn off DLP Link on the 2009 so if you get the starter kits (glasses, adapter and emitter) it is basically a mess.

Just buy DLP link glasses. As for sources get a Panny 3d player that supports checkerboard. If you want to watch 3d from ESPN or something like that you will need the adapter. I consider the 3d starter kit one of the worst purchases I ever made.

I never got around to purchasing DLP Link glasses as I hear so many people complain about them.. on the other hand active shutter glasses on the 2009 create a horrible cyan color over the picture a side effect of not being able to turn of DLP Link which the 2010 can do from the menu.
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post #10482 of 10987
10/5/11 at 7:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

My comments were in the context of a purchase decision. There are number of ways the 2010 is better. The 3d adapter is unecessary and btw the 3d adapter screws with the color just by being plugged in. Also you can't turn off DLP Link on the 2009 so if you get the starter kits (glasses, adapter and emitter) it is basically a mess.

Just buy DLP link glasses. As for sources get a Panny 3d player that supports checkerboard. If you want to watch 3d from ESPN or something like that you will need the adapter. I consider the 3d starter kit one of the worst purchases I ever made.

I never got around to purchasing DLP Link glasses as I hear so many people complain about them.. on the other hand active shutter glasses on the 2009 create a horrible cyan color over the picture a side effect of not being able to turn of DLP Link which the 2010 can do from the menu.

Meh. I was planning on using my PS3 and possibly watching some on cable. I suppose there's no way to compensate for the cyan push? And when you say horrible do you mean as in you are incredibly picky about color or do you generally not care and you think it's horrible? There's a big difference !

I suppose I could look into one of the Panny's. They can't cost that much.

Also, forgot to thank you for your response. I've largely been out of the loop on these sets since I purchased one in June 2010.
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post #10483 of 10987
10/6/11 at 5:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsrdlr View Post

I suppose there's no way to compensate for the cyan push? And when you say horrible do you mean as in you are incredibly picky about color or do you generally not care and you think it's horrible? There's a big difference !

The DLP Link glasses is the way around it, but those have slight color banding issues on the edges. With IR glasses, though, the blacks look dark green. I think the slight color bands (also called rainbows) is the better option.
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post #10484 of 10987
10/6/11 at 9:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milmanias View Post

The DLP Link glasses is the way around it, but those have slight color banding issues on the edges. With IR glasses, though, the blacks look dark green. I think the slight color bands (also called rainbows) is the better option.

Guess I'll just need to buy some stuff and give them a try. What are everyone's favorite glasses?
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post #10485 of 10987
10/6/11 at 11:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milmanias View Post

The DLP Link glasses is the way around it, but those have slight color banding issues on the edges. With IR glasses, though, the blacks look dark green. I think the slight color bands (also called rainbows) is the better option.

Anyone ever here why there is the color band on the sides? I wouldn't really call them rainbows, as, for me anyways, it just seems to be a brownish shading when using the dlp link glasses.
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post #10486 of 10987
10/6/11 at 11:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhulett View Post

Anyone ever here why there is the color band on the sides? I wouldn't really call them rainbows, as, for me anyways, it just seems to be a brownish shading when using the dlp link glasses.

How bad or distracting? I'd love to start collecting some 3D material but I don't want an underwhelming experience. If it's bad I'll just wait until I get the next TV and plan better for 3D.
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post #10487 of 10987
10/7/11 at 7:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhulett View Post

Anyone ever here why there is the color band on the sides? I wouldn't really call them rainbows, as, for me anyways, it just seems to be a brownish shading when using the dlp link glasses.

the polarization of the glass. If the glass were turned 45 degrees before cutting, the banding would go away.
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post #10488 of 10987
10/7/11 at 7:44am
ANy consensus as to why I have 3 white spots(pixels) on my 73837. One day there were 2 and several days later a 3rd showed up. Is it the light engine? Is there a way to repair?
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post #10489 of 10987
10/8/11 at 9:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Impala1ss View Post

ANy consensus as to why I have 3 white spots(pixels) on my 73837. One day there were 2 and several days later a 3rd showed up. Is it the light engine? Is there a way to repair?

It sounds like the DMD (DLP) chip is failing. This is quite rare for a 2009. The number of white pixels will accumulate. Usually this kind of failure will get quite bad fairly soon. I hope you have an extended warranty, if not get on the phone to Mitsubihi and start griping big time. They will probably make an accomodation for you. The chip itself is about $200, labor?. People on the forums here have done this replacement themselves. It is not terribly difficult. Mits may want to replace the entire light engine as long as you aren't paying you don't care.

On the older sets they 20o4-2007 they have sometimes provided the chip and the customer pays the labor?

How many hours on your set?
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post #10490 of 10987
10/10/11 at 6:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post


How many hours on your set?


It has 5317 hrs. on it. Luckily, I have a 5 yr. service plan from HHRGregg. Service will be here this morning - I hope.
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post #10491 of 10987
10/12/11 at 8:31am
Service company called and asked the problem. Told him and he said it would only get worse so he would order the parts. It should take 5 days to receive them and they will call me for date/time to come out. He said they didn't know what they will get, that it will either be a new chip or new light engine. I was 3 months beyond the 2 year cutoff to have set replaced with new one.
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post #10492 of 10987
10/13/11 at 8:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Impala1ss View Post

Service company called and asked the problem. Told him and he said it would only get worse so he would order the parts. It should take 5 days to receive them and they will call me for date/time to come out. He said they didn't know what they will get, that it will either be a new chip or new light engine. I was 3 months beyond the 2 year cutoff to have set replaced with new one.

Basically replacing the chip is like swapping a CPU on a motherboard only in this case it is on the light engine. I have seen, not done the light engine swap on our sets.. it is straightforward. On my HP DLP is was messy.
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post #10493 of 10987
10/18/11 at 7:42am
The repair service determined by my extended warranty plan came this morning, bright and early, to replace the defective chip which resulted in many whit dots on my 73837. Service man was well stocked with tools and rolling repair table. I had to help him lift the tv onto it.

He knew what he was doing and the entire job took about 45 minutes. It was a fairly simple job and he was very orderly when it came to keeping parts, screws, etc in the correct places so he could replace them all correctly.

With the new chip, the TV looks great again.
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post #10494 of 10987
10/19/11 at 5:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Impala1ss View Post

The repair service determined by my extended warranty plan came this morning, bright and early, to replace the defective chip which resulted in many whit dots on my 73837. Service man was well stocked with tools and rolling repair table. I had to help him lift the tv onto it.

He knew what he was doing and the entire job took about 45 minutes. It was a fairly simple job and he was very orderly when it came to keeping parts, screws, etc in the correct places so he could replace them all correctly.

With the new chip, the TV looks great again.

Did he replace the entire light engine assembly, or just the DLP chip itself?
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post #10495 of 10987
10/19/11 at 6:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMcM1956 View Post

Did he replace the entire light engine assembly, or just the DLP chip itself?


Chip only,
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post #10496 of 10987
10/26/11 at 12:57pm
I wanted to upgrade to 11.03 software on my WD-60C9 set. I used a no name USB stick that I had laying around. Did the downloading, format (FAT32), unpacking and followed the installation process.
No go. It seemed to try to read the stick but no message on screen that it upgraded the software. Ditto when I checked after removing stick.
Bought a new Toshiba 4GB stick and retried. Bingo, 11.03. Screen tells you when the upgrade has worked.
Moral, all USB sticks are not equal.
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post #10497 of 10987
10/26/11 at 4:06pm
Yep, I had the same exact problem a couple of months ago w/ a generic stick & then I tried a Toshiba & it worked fine. I wasn't a happy camper in between sticks- I thought I had bricked my TV.
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post #10498 of 10987
10/27/11 at 9:29pm
In the service menu I have a few options that I'm clueless about. Under the SAVE ENGINE AND GEOMETRY SETTING TO BACKUP option, I have an option to BACKUP AND RESTORE ISF SETTINGS, along with a RED ONLY AND GREEN ONLY option. I have yet to see this discussed. Does anybody know what either one does?
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post #10499 of 10987
10/29/11 at 10:04am
Hello,

I have a WD-65C9 that's just over a year old, and now it seems like the screen has all of the sudden gotten really dim, and I can barely see anything.

Is this an indication that I need a new bulb, or something worse?


Thanks!
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post #10500 of 10987
10/29/11 at 10:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebulon View Post

Hello,

I have a WD-65C9 that's just over a year old, and now it seems like the screen has all of the sudden gotten really dim, and I can barely see anything.

Is this an indication that I need a new bulb, or something worse?


Thanks!

That's why everyone should have a spare bulb.
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