2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 351

Im enjoying my 73C10 so much, I dont even care about 3D yet. Best looking TV ive ever had. But im sure we will probly get the 3D kit sometime, maybe on a after xmas sale if there is one.

I posted this in another thread but didn't get much of a response. Has anyone else purchased the 3D kit for this TV (C9/737/738) and done some 3D gaming? When I made the switch to 3D, it introduced a terrible lag into the TV...

I replace my lamp when it can no longer display at least 30 foot lamberts. This happens roughly at about 3000 hrs. for me.

One year is a little bit quick for that to be as bad as "barely see anything", but possible. The one year point is where I typically buy a bulb, replace the one in the TV, and make the old one my spare. Definitely worth trying as a first step, and if it doesn't fix the problem at least now you have a new bulb and a spare.

I just replaced my bulb on my C9 after 4327 hours with the TV on the "bright" setting. Bulb was still going strong with minimal dimming. I only replaced the bulb to make sure my spare was good.

TV has been on for about 10 hours a day since I got it. No major problems.

nice but i have to say that with that many hours your set would have had to have lost more than half its light output.

I just put a new lamp in my set this week and am running the set non stop for 150 hours in standard power mode. after that I will calibrate. the idea is that this may break in the lamp and allow it to stay more stable in its quality of light for a longer period of time vs powering it on and off during this period of time. what do you guys think? is this a reasonable expectation or is my theory flawed?

by the way my wd-65837 has over 7300 hour on it and has had no issues what so ever. I did have to separate the Lenticular and Fresnel layers of the screen to dry out moisture that got between the layers as well as some periodic lens cleaning

Is this your opinion based on personal experience or do you have some other reference? thanks.

Half? Really? I have 5500 hours on my 73737 if I had only half light output I think I'd be putting in my spare. At 3000 hours I tested my spare and saw no difference with the naked eye. At 5500 hours I may have lost some output but I can't imagine it being 50%.

I don't know about your theory of nonstop for 150 hours, would I do it....probably not.

And how did moisture get between your screens?

just replaced my bulb after 6365 hrs. It was still working just a little dim.
kept it as spare. how do you reset the bulb hour counter?

The hours in use isn't for the bulb but rather the set, you'll just have to keep a record of hours when the bulb was changed.

My counter was reset when I changed the main board, fortunately I checked the hours just before it went out.

thanks

I have 6336 hours on my 73835 and while it has dimmed i can still get 30 ftl with the bright setting and contrast maxed verified with my eye one pro. I will be buying a lamp soon though and will keep my current as a spare. Will probably dust off the lens as well when changing the bulb.

Hi, I was wondering if anybody has had this issue with their 73-737. Every once in a while the screen will go blank/black for about 1-3 seconds, I do have the tv hooked up to the 3d adaptor kit, I was thinking it might be because of that. Any opinons or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks.

What's the input? Does it happen across all inputs? I'd be thinking HDMI-handshaking issues perhaps. You might try taking the 3D adapter out of the loop for awhile and see if that fixes it.

I've got that adapter in-line from my DirecTV to the TV (60737), but haven't seen anything like that.

I was wondering if anyone else here has a C9 and also has Dish Network, with the 722 receiver? I just got Dish setup today and the guy didn't program the remote to work with my TV so I'm going through the codes listed on the sheet and several of them work as far as turning the TV on/off but when I press Inputs it will bring up the menu to switch inputs but the directional buttons won't work....or any other button on the remote for that matter....so I can't select a different input which is what I'm trying to get the Dish remote to do. I'm curious if others have this same issue or if not what remote code did you use? Thanks!

Has anyone experienced the volume on their 737 increasing on its own? I have a 2 year old 73737 and about a week ago the volume started randomly increasing all on its own. It keeps increasing to full volume unless I grab the remote and turn it down. Sometimes it happens every few minutes other times it doesn't occur for a few days.

Thought maybe a neighbour with a universal remote was causing it but probably not since they wouldn't have line of sight. Also thought maybe my remote was broken and sending the volume signal but that's not the case as the volume still increased when I hid the remote.

I found the 3d adapter to be quite a POS. It messes with the color space, is tricky from an EDID perspective and also was anthing but neutral in terms of grayscale, gamma, and gamut. Actually afer fiddling with it and trying to integrate in my display chain I gave up. You never knew from one boot up to the next what is what going to do. I tried to have it inline and adjust for it with my DUO and it just did crazy things. Unless you need ESPN3D support I would just get a Panny BD player. Mine is in a box along with the useless Sammy glasses.. If ever there was a poorly thoughout rush to market hack it is the Mits 3D solutions for the 2009 sets. I must say the CYAN push with the active shutter glasses Mits sold is pretty much an abomination and insult to the people who bought there sets that year.

Hi everyone! Haven't posted in a long time. Still very happy with my TV. But I see the new models and wonder what I'm missing. Does anyone have a link to a compaison table so i can see whats been upgraded on the new 2011 miodels compared to mine? light engine? processor?

thanks,
Kipperman

Its what my set measures with my eye one pro. 70 something foot lamberts with new lamp just under 30 foot Lambert at about 3500 hrs, give or take.

Nothing much new with light engine, processor. Unless you go with Laservue. Main differences with the newer DLPs are the internet apps.

Thanks 4mula1,
I was hoping they at least fixed the perfect color, perfect tint and ISF controls to allow these sets to be more easily calibrated.

I think the main thing is whether thy have tamed blue luminance or not? Also do they still tend to be underaturated. I had a meter on a 2010 once and it measured pretty good if I recall on color targets. The set was blown out on contrast and had that washed out look that is so easy to get with the 82" sets. I have seen the 92" and the color seemed excellent and the sharpness was amazing.. reflections could be a killer.

I found that a good meter is a big help. I have the D3 Pro now.. so with the DVDO DUO you can dial it in very close. My set has continued to have the problem with grayscale fluctuation. I have never quite figured it out. A DUO, a Radiance of Video EQ would all solve getting grayscale, gamma and gamut right. The D3 Pro blows away the Chroma5 Pro. I won't say it is perfect.. it still could use some tweaking on the calibration software side but it is very accurate and very fast.

As for the CMS on the new sets I can't imagine it could be any worse. I used to use Natural and Perfect Color and Perfect Tint... I now use advanced mode. I do a full calibration on the display and then do manual touch up on the DUO.

I like the idea of autocalibration but the DUO has trouble getting gamma right so you end up hand tweaking grayscale and gamut anyway. What I found though is that if you get the gamut as close as you can in the display and then run autocalibrate on the DUO you will get color very close.

The 82" was a very much harder case because it doesn't make a lot of light. So you have to be careful not to throw it into clipping color. If it clips color above white it will be able to get close to the luminance targets above 910 stimulus on green. The smaller sets are diffferent.

I would love to be able to go do a calibration on the and 82840 or a 92840.. I would want to see how much light they made and how close you could get them without a video processor. The clear screen constrast and sharpness is dramatically better.

People are talking about lamp hours and that's what i was curious about as well.
65737 with 5K hours on it now, picture still looks pretty sweet to me, but i was just wondering where people are upping the brightness/contrast to as the lamp starts to age?
You know people made a big deal about the lamps but we have an old 42'' Samsung that had 5K hours on it around the time we bought THIS ONE! So now it must have about 10K and the picture still looks fine!

I think too much has placed on lamp replacement - they are only $100 direct from Mitsubishi and the method to purchase them direct from Mitsubsihi and the how to replace them is all over the Owner's Guide. Any video system with a "lamp" will need to replace the lamp at some point - overhead projectors, movie projectors, video projectors and the lamp type of DLP rear projection TVs. There has never been any statement that these lamps are life time light sources.

5K hours is good and other have gotten up to 10k hours. Changing Brightness and Contrast adjsutments may compensate for the gradual dimming of a lamp AND those changes will not affect the lamp becasue they are only video processing and not lamp brightness changes.

However in the menu there is a lamp brightness setting with options of Standard and Bright. This may affect the life of the lamp but you may want to change to Bright when the TV overall is much dimmer than the original brightness and at the same time order your new lamp so you will have it before any final failure.

Could I get some confirmation that the Panasonic DMP BDT210 will replay in checkerboard mode for the Mit 65737? If so, there is no need for the 3DA-1, correct? I realize I'll need the 3DA-1 anyway for getting 3D over the TV, but just want to confirm that the Pan 210 can be connected directly into the Mit. Thanks.....

Good morning, so yesterday when I was going to power up my tv, I noticed the status light was blinking red and then yellow (orangish)..It blinked 4 times red and 8 times yellow. I looked up the codes and found what it was but I still have no idea what it means...

what is it exactly, and how much is it going to cost to fix it...
I am still under warranty, already called Mitsu but they were closing up when I called last night and told me to call back this morning.

any help would help greatly, thanks guys!

48 PON-SHORT 3.3V or 5V switched supply short PWB-MAIN Failure

Sounds like a main board, but why you asking about cost if it's under warranty.

the reason i asked for cost was because I was willing to buy it and do it myself ASAP. I wanted it done before people come over for turkey 2moro.
But that wont happen. Called this morning have a part ordered now and will be installed by them next week.

booo!
Never had any issues with the TV, only had it since march 11. Not sure why this happend.

I picked up a used Panny 210 the other day I hooked it up direct via HDMI to my 60737 and all seems to be working fine very good PQ. Any suggestions on settings for the Mits/Panny or using 3D? I noticed a 24P or something like that in the Panny menu should that be turned on? Any help would be appreciated. TIA

Edit: Found and downloaded the Panasonic 210 owners manual got most of what I needed. I'm not a fan of 3D at all but it's nice to have that option with the Mits

Curious...

So in the geometry menu i tried getting everything symmetrical, i got a bit into the white lines all around the screen except in the bottom corners.....so anyway
several shows show that the image is too much to the right so i finally adjusted it.
Now the Network widget screen on our Panasonic BDT-100 shows the top of the image is lopped off too much, so i adjusted that.
I'm wondering why it can look symmetrical on the geometry menu but the images it's displaying aren't straight......?