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2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 353

post #10561 of 11218
Nice... I had a feeling HH Gregg was a good company to do business with. They are still young and new as a retail company. Still growing and really competing for the market so they have every reason to provide good customer service. I will continue to shop with them.
post #10562 of 11218
Replaced bulb on my 65c9 now everything is gravy.:-)
post #10563 of 11218
Well.....going on 1 week since I had my issues with the screen going "black" for a couple of seconds, and no further issues. I'm guessing it was either an issue with Comcast or maybe something just had to be unplugged and plugged in again. Really strange.

I have had a chence to use the 3D on several occasions, but just for short periods of time (15 or 20 minutes). I have the Mit Adapter and some True Depth D-Link active glasses. The 3D seems to get me feeling a little odd. I am wondering how I'll feel after watching a full movie or a full football game. I am not one to normally be affected by such things, but then again, guess I've never had my eyes exposed to 120 flickering pictures per second! How do other folks feel after watching 3D on their DLP?
post #10564 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

Not really, I could easily see that if my kids didn't have their own tv's.



No my wife watches a lot of network tv then I catch up on shows late at night. Maybe 2 or 3 movies a weekend, gaming and sports.



Not a good idea to buy from ebay unless it's an oem bulb and it comes with a housing.

Works great.
post #10565 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by 44pirate View Post

Works great.

I didn't say it wouldn't work.
post #10566 of 11218
Lamp quality is critical, not only does it effect picture quality through its ouput, brightness, stability and spectral response, the factory lamps are just more reliable. Mits is always striving to improve them. My second lamp on my 82837 was much better than the first. I used Amazon and bought an official Mits replacement. The 2nd made much more light, was more stable and easier to calibrate and hold calibration, 32 ft lamberts calibrated.

Mits keeps changing the part number every year even though they are still 180 watt lamps. My new 92" with about 100 hours on it is making 46 ft lambert and while down a tiny bit in blue autocalibrates with my DUO video processor easily to spec and color dEs are typically 1.0 or less even for the primaries.

You can buy the factory replacements at Amazon for $99 and if you are a prime member it is less than $4 to get one overnight, why fool around with iffy heritage stuff?
post #10567 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by clemsound85 View Post

Well.....going on 1 week since I had my issues with the screen going "black" for a couple of seconds, and no further issues. I'm guessing it was either an issue with Comcast or maybe something just had to be unplugged and plugged in again. Really strange.

I have had a chence to use the 3D on several occasions, but just for short periods of time (15 or 20 minutes). I have the Mit Adapter and some True Depth D-Link active glasses. The 3D seems to get me feeling a little odd. I am wondering how I'll feel after watching a full movie or a full football game. I am not one to normally be affected by such things, but then again, guess I've never had my eyes exposed to 120 flickering pictures per second! How do other folks feel after watching 3D on their DLP?

Try setting the Glass L-R setting to the opposite setting. When ever the 3D looks "wrong" the first thing to try is changing that setting.
post #10568 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

Try setting the Glass L-R setting to the opposite setting. When ever the 3D looks "wrong" the first thing to try is changing that setting.

Thanks!....will try that.
post #10569 of 11218
Well....need some additional help on connecting my xBox to my Mit 65737. I have asked about this in the AVR Section as I have my xBox going through my Denon 1912 via component hook up (no HDMI, older xBox 360), and when I turn everything on I get sound, but have a blue screen on the TV. The component in (from xBox) on the Denon should send the video to the TV via the HDMI, but all I get is a blue screen. Any suggestions? I have a DVR and BluRay going to the TV via the same HDMI and all works fine. Thanks for any suggestions.
post #10570 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by clemsound85 View Post

Well....need some additional help on connecting my xBox to my Mit 65737. I have asked about this in the AVR Section as I have my xBox going through my Denon 1912 via component hook up (no HDMI, older xBox 360), and when I turn everything on I get sound, but have a blue screen on the TV. The component in (from xBox) on the Denon should send the video to the TV via the HDMI, but all I get is a blue screen. Any suggestions? I have a DVR and BluRay going to the TV via the same HDMI and all works fine. Thanks for any suggestions.

Does it work if you bypass the AVR? Use the optical for sound, if you can turn off video processing on the AVR. Not familiar with the 1912 but is it even capable of sending component through HDMI?

Doubt if it's an issue with the MITS.
post #10571 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

Does it work if you bypass the AVR? Use the optical for sound, if you can turn off video processing on the AVR. Not familiar with the 1912 but is it even capable of sending component through HDMI?

Doubt if it's an issue with the MITS.

Yes the 1912 has hdmi to analog video upconvert and upscaling... that was the first thing that came to my mind so I double checked it just in case

My first guess is a firmware issue/update is needed on the 1912 and/or its compatibility with the Mits might needed to be updated
post #10572 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by clemsound85 View Post

Well....need some additional help on connecting my xBox to my Mit 65737. I have asked about this in the AVR Section as I have my xBox going through my Denon 1912 via component hook up (no HDMI, older xBox 360), and when I turn everything on I get sound, but have a blue screen on the TV. The component in (from xBox) on the Denon should send the video to the TV via the HDMI, but all I get is a blue screen. Any suggestions? I have a DVR and BluRay going to the TV via the same HDMI and all works fine. Thanks for any suggestions.

Does your tv recognize that Xbox is connected and show it as a device in the Activities section? Did you switch your tv to the input that the Xbox is connected to? I have a 73837 and just connected a new Xbox to it witout any problems.
post #10573 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by ten8yp View Post

Yes the 1912 has hdmi to analog video upconvert and upscaling... that was the first thing that came to my mind so I double checked it just in case

My first guess is a firmware issue/update is needed on the 1912 and/or its compatibility with the Mits might needed to be updated

I'll look into how to do a firmware upgrade, or at least see if it needs to be upgraded. Thanks.
post #10574 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by Impala1ss View Post

Does your tv recognize that Xbox is connected and show it as a device in the Activities section? Did you switch your tv to the input that the Xbox is connected to? I have a 73837 and just connected a new Xbox to it witout any problems.

Well....it should be on the HDMI input, but not sure it is actually recognizing it as being connected. I guess I could go back to connecting the video directly to the TV as I don't plan on using 3D for it, so I'll try direct connect via Component to the TV. I have an older xBox and it doesn't have HDMI, so I'm having to use component connections. I'm toying with the idea of getting a new xBox, so that would certainly solve this issue.
post #10575 of 11218
What settings can i adjust to fix the moire pattern im seeing? Here is a pic of 1x1, 2x2, and 3x3. This is HDMI from ps3 and Mitsubishi is set as game mode.


Attachment 232808



Attachment 232809



Attachment 232810
LL
LL
LL
post #10576 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by insaneoctane View Post

What settings can i adjust to fix the moire pattern im seeing? Here is a pic of 1x1, 2x2, and 3x3. This is HDMI from ps3 and Mitsubishi is set as game mode.


Attachment 232808



Attachment 232809



Attachment 232810

Try turning off Film Mode or Smooth120Hz. I don't remember exactly which one worked for me.
post #10577 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by clemsound85 View Post

Well....it should be on the HDMI input, but not sure it is actually recognizing it as being connected. I guess I could go back to connecting the video directly to the TV as I don't plan on using 3D for it, so I'll try direct connect via Component to the TV. I have an older xBox and it doesn't have HDMI, so I'm having to use component connections. I'm toying with the idea of getting a new xBox, so that would certainly solve this issue.

Suggest unplugging component connections from Xbox. Then, plug them back in to INPUT 1 ( or 2) on the TV. The TV should tell you it recognizes a new connection on the input you select. You then set TV to the game activity in the Menu and you should see it and be able to connect to it.
post #10578 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by insaneoctane View Post

What settings can i adjust to fix the moire pattern im seeing? Here is a pic of 1x1, 2x2, and 3x3. This is HDMI from ps3 and Mitsubishi is set as game mode.


Attachment 232808



Attachment 232809



Attachment 232810

Do you have geometry correction turned off.
post #10579 of 11218
I may have scratched or removed the special coating from the projection lens on my 65C9. The part number is 491P240010. Does anyone know where I can order it for a reasonable price?

Thanks
post #10580 of 11218
mitsubishi parts is the only place other than ebay that I know of but you will need to be a business. you should talk to a tv repair shop.

What happened and what are you seeing as a result, if you don't mind?
post #10581 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by insaneoctane View Post

What settings can i adjust to fix the moire pattern im seeing? Here is a pic of 1x1, 2x2, and 3x3. This is HDMI from ps3 and Mitsubishi is set as game mode.


Attachment 232808



Attachment 232809



Attachment 232810

The pattern is caused by resizing and re-positioning going on by having the format set in A stretch mode or having geometry correction turned on, because most of the pattern is in the corners I would guess it is caused by geometry correction. My 65837 has the geometry correction turned off and it looks just fine so I have 1:1 pixel mapping and no moire patterns.

Mike T
post #10582 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by cid67 View Post

mitsubishi parts is the only place other than ebay that I know of but you will need to be a business. you should talk to a tv repair shop.

What happened and what are you seeing as a result, if you don't mind?

Well I was noticing white halos and blurry text so I looked it up and saw the thread on how to clean the projector lens. I pulled it out and saw dust and a small blotch of dried liquid on it. I tried cleaning it with Monster screen cleaning fluid but it made the blotch spread out. So I then made the stupid mistake of using alcohol and that's when I noticed that it looked like some of the film was rubbing off the lens. I stopped but when I put it back together I can see the area where the film was rubbed off. Its really noticeable on white background.
post #10583 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by cid67 View Post

mitsubishi parts is the only place other than ebay that I know of but you will need to be a business. you should talk to a tv repair shop.

What happened and what are you seeing as a result, if you don't mind?

I called a local TV repair shop and was told they have one but it costs $200.
post #10584 of 11218
I have a question. QVC has the Mits 73740 for $1599. Never having a DLP, (currently have a sony sxrd, which is starting to give me trouble), I"m thinking of the Mitsubishi. My question is:
What is the diff between the 737 / 740?
post #10585 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by bklyn1028 View Post

I have a question. QVC has the Mits 73740 for $1599. Never having a DLP, (currently have a sony sxrd, which is starting to give me trouble), I"m thinking of the Mitsubishi. My question is:
What is the diff between the 737 / 740?

The 737 is the 2009 version.
post #10586 of 11218
Looking for OEM bulb replacement for WD60C9.
Is it the same bulb as in WD-60737??

PS
Just wanted to grab one for a piece of mind.
post #10587 of 11218
Just go to the Mitsubishi Parts web site and order one. If "peice of mind" is important then order the Mitsubishi specified lamp. It is better than saving a few bucks on a possible unknown. It is only $99 plus shipping and tax directly from Mitsubishi.
https://mitsuparts.3diamonds.com/PartsForModel.aspx
post #10588 of 11218
I just want to say a big thanks to the members of the AVS forum. Did my first lamp replacement today and it was a piece of cake. I was worried it was something else, but researching here and reading about the Lamp light going to solid red I ordered a Mitsubishi replacement bulb. Received it in about 5 days. Had my 11 year old son help me turn the tv around and after unscrewing 3 screws, pulling out the housing, replacing with new housing, and screwing back in the 3 screws I'm happy to say I'm up and running again.

This is coming from a guy who has literally no mechanical skills what so ever. So thanks for all the help guys!!! I love my 65737
post #10589 of 11218
My 73837 says 11160 hours but it still looks really good. Not sure if a little dim in the daylight.
When do you all recommend a new bulb?
post #10590 of 11218
You are on the outside of a very long lamp life. You do not need to replace the lamp until it stops completely or gets too dim, however since you are on the end of very long lamp life, you may want to purchase a new lamp now so you have one when needed.

11,160 is a lot of hours even for about 3 - 4 years. You got your money's worth on that lamp.
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