2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 356

With the TV turned on, try holding the power button on the front of the TV for 10 or 15 seconds to force a reset. Worth a try.

It's just a lamp, they burn out without notice since the day they were invented. Everyone should have a spare on hand.

Just picked up a spare Mits lamp from ShopJimmy while they were on sale. I was thinking of replacing my Mits with a new set either plasma or LCD but I still like the PQ of the Mits so much I decided to stick with it. I picked up a used Panny 210 for blue rays and if I ever want to go 3D and given an Xbox for Christmas so I should be set for awhile.

I have low hours on my Mits it is good to hear of sets with so many hours on them still in service.

yeah thats what I'm thinking/hoping. I'll order another one, I'll need one anywah soon probably regardless. I never looked at the hours used on mine, will that reset with a new bulb? Or do you have to do it manually?

Thanks for all the help.

The TV does NOT keep track of hours on the individual lamp, only total TV use time. If you want to keep track you will need to do that you self. When you get a new lamp and can see a picture, press MENU 2 4 7 0. The total hours is either the number at the lower left of the menu or is listed as Total Hours.

Any recommendations on how to clean the inside of my 65837? How difficult is it and what should I use. I've had it for two years now and I can tell in the picture while I'm watching tv that it needs to be cleaned.

If you have the "port holes" on the side, reach in there with a lightly damp microfiber cloth. Then follow up with a dry microfiber cloth. And, absolutely try and not touch anything else.

Have you replaced your bulb? If you still have the original bulb your picture will be dim and lifeless by now with normal usage. If you do want to clean i would not use anything but a dry microfiber cloth or a chemical free duster. The back mirror is very easy to scratch or stain so be super careful!

Ok thanks, yeah I change my bulbs regularly when it can no longer provide me with the proper light output when tested with my meter.

I appreciate your input thanks I will give this a try!!!

I just replaced the lamp in my 60737 and and PQ has brightened up a bit nothing to get too excited about. I than took off the side covers and cleaned the lens the mirror and the back of the screen with a microfiber cloth. That was what was needed the picture is both bright and sharp now, even though it looked clean in there over the years fine dust and a film had built up. Getting that stuff cleaned up definitely helps.

You were able to reach with just a cloth?

I used a rectangle piece of foam covered it with the microfiber cloth and attached it to a yard stick just stuff I had laying around the house, easy to make and it works.

Hi. I'm an ex-owner of the WD-65737 and contributed greatly to educating and helping new owners back in fall of 2009.

I now own a 2011 WD-73640, and am investigating, along with other bummed 2011 owners, a defect these sets have which we did not notice in 2009 or 2010. (Info about the defect is in link in my sig, but no need to go there, unless you really want to make yourself feel good about your 2009 set )

What we are seeking 2009 owner's help with, is a test of the infamous "Smooth 120" non-feature.

Would any of you care to run a simple test to see if it introduces blurring, or rather, "peculiar artifacts" on your 2009 set?

(In passing, I still haven't found anyone who knows what Smooth 120 actually does, mechanically or digital processing-wise, do any of you know by now?)

The test is simple: Display a bitmap and see if the red lines vanish when Smooth 120 is ON and Sharpening is OFF.

Here is what "the defect" does on our 2011 sets. Following that is the original bitmap for you to test with (click to download full Original size, "O")


Vanishing Red Lines - A Mitsubishi Trick:



Above: Image on 2011 Mits DLP with Sharpness OFF

Below: The actual source image - Click on this to open the full size image to download and test with. Thanks.




Just so you know why we care, here's what the same defect does to real content:



Above: 3D Checkerboard OFF
Below: 3D Checkerboard ON - our current workaround, which may turn off Smooth 120 in the 2011 sets





Above: 3D Checkerboard OFF
Below: 3D Checkerboard ON - our current workaround, which may turn off Smooth 120 in the 2011 sets





Above: 3D Checkerboard OFF
Below: 3D Checkerboard ON - our current workaround, which may turn off Smooth 120 in the 2011 sets




Thank you!

I have a WD-65737 that is shutting off and would like some opinions on how to proceed.

- About a week ago, TV shut off and wouldn't come back on. Flashed green light, then solid red light.

- Did some research online and found that it was error code 66.

- Ordered Mitsubishi replacement bulb and put it in last night (old bulb was blown).

- TV now powers on and I'm able to get a picture anywhere from 20 seconds to a couple of minutes, then shuts off.

- Immediately after this started happening, error code 34 was being reported. I removed and reinserted the new bulb to ensure proper installation.

- I left the TV off for a day and just now tried turning it on again. Same issue. It kind of flickers before powering off though, then goes to solid red light. However, I now get error 17.

- According to a service manual I downloaded for this model, error 17 is described as "Communication loss, TV micro - Engine (3.3V-ENG-SDA & SCL)." The most likely cause for this is "Loss of 12V from PWB-Power to Engine (Loose PE or PE2 connector) or Engine Failure."

Can anyone please help me decipher what this error code is telling me?? Thank you!

Update:

I had the white and black dots all over my screen about 3 weeks ago and called Mitsubishi. They were on it the whole time, set up service for me and said they would cover the cost for the DLP chip. Precision TV out of Concord, California called and set up the service to get it installed. Bill from Precision just left my house and did a wonderful job installing the DLP chip.

I was impressed how Mitusbishi took care of business and got my 82837 working great again. The whole thing only cost me $200 to cover the labor. I would suggest that anyone who has the white/black dots on their screen to reach out to Mitsubishi and get it taken care of. Thanks guys for the help figuring out the problem!

I have the, WD-73C9 DLP, I have a Xbox 360, Blu-Ray, HD Dish Network Box, Wii, and PC on the TV, through a Home Theater receiver. When watching TV through the Dish cable box, the picture gets lost every 3 seconds, flickers to static, black, and then back to TV picture, over and over. It only happens when watching the cable box. Every other device plays perfectly. I don't think it's the cable box, receiver, or anything but the TV. Since, when it's doing it's flickering cycle, I can't even get the TV Menu or displays to come up. Any idea what's wrong, or how to fix?

error code 17 is either a connection to the engine or the engine iteself.
error code 34 means lamp failed after it ignited (as opposed to 66 which is failure to ignite)

if the TV turns on for a minute or so you can check the code log by pressing menu 3564.

Well....need some help on the picture format on my Mits 737. Not sure what happened but the picture has suddenly become too large for the screen. I have cycled through the Aspect Ratio button, and when it gets back to "Standard" it is still too large. The Expand and the Zoom also get even larger when I hit those format options. Any suggestions? I think there is a put you can hit to send everything back to the original settings, but anything else I can try before that? I've had the TV for about 4 months and this is the first instance that the screen has done this and there have been no changes to the cable provider that I am aware of. All other TV's seem to be just fine. Thanks.

*EDIT: I would like to add that the picture from my Blu-Ray is just fine. I also did a reset on my cable box/DVR and that did not seem to help the issue with the picture being too large from the cable box. I am wondering if it might be an issue with the cable box?

Is the connections going thru your AVR via HDMI? If so, maybe swap one of the cables from a connection that works with the cable box. You might have a bad HDMI cable for the cable box. If that doesn't resolve the issue, try connecting the cable box into one of your other HDMI connections, as the HDMI port that cable box is using might be bad.

Probably cable box. Not knowing what box you have, can you tell on the front of the box what format is being displayed, ie; 480i, 720p, ect? Sounds like the cable box is displaying a lower resolution and your TV is displaying it best it can. Or if there is a setting in your cable box letting it know you have a 16:9 TV?

I'm thinking the box to. The box is the CISCO RNG200 (Comcast) and we have had some odd issues here and there with it. On the box, it does indicate the broadcast is "HD" and shows "1080i" as well. I'll try calling Comcast, but I don't see where I can adjust anything within the menu of the box. Grrrrrrrr. Always something. Just odd that this would happen totally out of the blue with absolutely no adjustments having been made. I have no children around, so the only person who could have potentially hit some button is my wife....which is possible....she is saying she is innocent on this one.

The box probably does have a service menu where those settings can be changed.....you just need to find the code to access it.

On your cable box remote, look for a zoom or aspect key. Mine has it on the # key to cycle through the zoom modes. Also if I remember correctly, some of cable boxes had the zoom options through the menu.

It's been over a year since I had a Comcast box but try shutting it off. Once it's off, hold down "menu" on your remote which should allow you to access the service menu. I had to access that menu often to turn on/off the closed caption and remember seeing the resolution options listed right above CC options.

UPDATE TO MY PREVIOUS POST

Hipnotiq, thank you for the reply. Due to the new bulb not having addressed the issue, I decided to order the power circuit board?? (sorry, don't know the actual name but it is listed as PWB-POWER in the service manual). The part was about $30 with shipping so I figured what the hell.

The problem persisted even after installing the new "PWB-POWER," so I decided to request an exchange for the bulb to ensure that the first bulb I received wasn't defective. If the problem persisted after this exchange, then I knew it was probably the engine failing, at that point I would have contacted Mitsubishi to seek some relief for the price of the new light engine (around $300).

Luckily, the TV is now working again (after installing the second replacement bulb). It may have been a bad bulb all along and I may have spent $30 for the "PWB-POWER" part unnecessarily; however, I decided that, for the cost, it doesn't hurt to leave the that new part in there as well.

I ended up getting a new box from Comcast yesterday and when I hooked it up to the Mits, "poof", beautiful picture again and fitting the screen. I figured there had to be somewhere inside the box that would allow you to adjust this, but decided to try a different box because there were some other crazy issues with the box anyway. So, back to a really nice picture again. I did hook up the old box to another TV with the same issue, so, it is nice to know my Mits is still hanging in there. Thanks for all the suggestions. This web site is always amazing when one of the gadgets has a hiccup.

So this is my first post here, even though I have browsed for a long time. I stumbled across this forum when I bought a Mitsu 60" C9, and it helped me avoid some problems and set up the TV properly, so thank you for all your help.

Now onto my problem... I have not seen anyone yet in here that has had the problem I am currently having. I press power and I hear it start to boot up, but the light on the front panel blinks green, then the Mitsu blue welcome screen comes on, it pauses there and then shuts down after 7-15 seconds.

I did the whole reset, hold down the buttons for the error code thing (comes back as error code 12, which is "NO ERROR!"), plugged it into a surge protector and the wall and nothing fixes it. I replaced the bulb on an outside chance it was shorted out after 7k hours of viewing..but still no fix! I even cleaned every vent and heatsink while I was poking around inside the unit.

anyone have any idea as to what the problem and its fix might be?
thanks in advance..

He has the 60737... which I dont think is too big to reach to the middle from one side or the other.

Have You tried a firmware update?