2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 359

Im having problems with the 11.03 update. The tv is not seeing the files on my jump drive. I formatted it and followed the directions to a tee and no go.

Not every thumb drive will work. Make sure all the files are open and none are contained in a folder.

Also, the drive needs to be formatted in FAT32.

I think that's my problem. Can someone who's done the upgrade tell me what jump drive definitely works and I'll go buy it.

I used a Mushkin Mulholland.

I used a SanDisk Cruzer SDCZ6-2048RB formatted to FAT32

WD60C9 WD-60C9 C9 Calibration:

I am new to AVS. I got ahold of a WD60C9 secondhand for a trade on CL. I am a silver member at best buy (which many of you may know just means "hey, you spent too much money at best buy once again, so here's a "silver" status to make you feel better). Best Buy just recently changed their benefits for Silver Members and added HDTV Calibration with an ISF certified technician. So I made the appointment because I had nothing to lose. It was a free benefit! The Geek Squad technician used a Sencore VideoPro 400 sereies with the SpectraCal Calman software.

I will attach the report. However, here is the summary:
Gamma 2.4
Contrast 58
Brightness 40
Color 32
Tint 28
Low Red -21
Low Green -15
Low Blue -6
High Red 946
High Green 983
High Blue 1023

Also, I learned the long way because I could not find any thread mentioning how to do it. If you want the picture plus advanced menu on the WD-60C9 you have to do the update. I've never found the feature list of the update but I can tell you that the menu tool for advanced picture settings was not there before the update and it was after.

If anyone can't see the report I'm attaching and you want to, just send a message and I'll send it your way!

The forum has been very helpful. However, there are lots of sample calibration settings for the 737 and 837 series and none for the c9 series that I could find only statements saying how similar the C9 and 737 are. But now hopefully C9 owners can benefit from these settings I have posted.

Mits Calibration Report.pdf 564k .pdf file
Edited by jolson1986 - 9/5/12 at 12:27pm

Out of curiosity I emailed Mits to ask what the equivalent settings would be for their "Bright" settings because if I had to pick one of the factory settings to switch to when my new calibrated settings aren't working (I have big windows with lots of light that make the room too bright some times) then I'd use the "Bright" one.

I thought the reply was interested. They explained how their factory settings are not industry standard curves and are unique to them.

Quote:
"Thank you for contacting Mitsubishi Electric Visual Solutions America, Inc. We are pleased to be able to assist our customers via our website. Here is the information that you have requested:

This is not possible.

The picture adjustments for Brilliant and Bright are based on exclusive Mitsubishi dynamic algorithms for dynamic non-linear gamma curve, dynamic contrast adjustment, non-standard color points, etc. It is these dynamic adjustments that give the picture mode it’s “look”. These picture modes are not intended or represented as relying only industry standards, instead have adjustments Mitsubishi designed for environmental conditions outside those used when industry standards are created and to please people that feel the industry standards do not work well in their homes.

For people that prefer the industry standards but do not have the training or tools to make subtle adjustments, the Natural picture mode is designed to come as close as possible in a mass production environment to the industry mastering standards for a moderately to semi-brightly illuminate room.

The controls in the Advance Picture Mode menus cannot recreate all of the effects of the dynamic algorithms in the Brilliant and Bright modes The purpose and intents of the Advanced Picture Modes are to give calibrators the controls needed to adjust to industry standards, not to recreate the Mitsubishi exclusive non-standard dynamic settings. In the default settings, the Natural and the ADV 1 mode are extremely close, designed to come as close as mass production can to industry standard for a moderately illuminated room. ADV 2, at the default, is very similar but the default contrast is a little lower for use in a darkened room."
End

I'm no profession calibrator but all I heard was a fancy way of saying we cranked up the brightness and the contrast and added a lot of blue so it looks good in the stores at first glance. This guy was talking about an ADV 2. I don't have the possibility to have two advanced settings so I have my new calibrated one in the picture plus settings that is calibrated to industry standards and I guess when the room is too bright I'll just use the factory "Bright" mode in the interim.

I am not sure what you really expected. There is only one "industry standard". So if all picture modes are set to industry standard, they would all look the same.

It is normal, not the exception, that each manufacturer has picture modes that are non-standard and have an exclusive look and that you may not be able to recreate that look in the “custom” settings menus. That is part of the difference between each manufacturer.

I think it more interesting that Mitsubishi confirmed that Natural and the ADV modes are based on the industry standard.

To be honest I didn't know what I was expecting at the time. The terminology and calibration process was all very new to me at the time of the email to Mits. I have a grasp on it now. I guess I wasn't asking how to make a bright mode conform to the one and only industry standard but rather how can I use the advanced settings to mimick their non-standard bright mode. I now realize that is not possible and furthermore it became pointless because I can only have one advanced mode anyways and thats the one I had set to the industry standard during my professional consultation. I was only contacting them out of curiousity on what some settings in the advance mode would be to come up with something close to the "bright mode" that I could further tweak to get rid of some exessive blue that is obviously present, etc. Again, it's all for nothing now that I got a calibration done and I can only have one advanced setting. (initially I was hoping for one pro-calibrated industry standard mode for normal use i.e. my ADV mode and a second tweaked mode to use for bright light viewing when the sun is blaring in) anyways I just wanted to pass some info along that I had gotten straight from the horse's mouth.

To reduce the "blue" try the Low Color Temperature setting in the Bright mode. High color temperatures are "cooler" or "bluer", low color temperatures are "warmer" or "redder". It still may not be what you want, but is a control you can try.

I realize that you were not trying to get Bright to be set for industry standard, my point is that every manufacturer has their own settings for these non-standard modes and that those settings use formulas that can't be recreated by controls designed to adjust to industry standard. The special non-standard picture mode formulas are the "secret sauce”. Just like in burger companies, the “secret sauce” is normally a variation to 1000 Island Dressing – however the exact variation is the “secret” part and not publically released. In TVs the non-standard modes often look somewhat alike between manufacturers, but not exactly alike and how they differ is the “secret”.
Edited by GEP - 9/5/12 at 10:28am

GEP, thank you for the good idea on adjusting the basic settings on the factory bright mode. It may not be "perfect" but it will make a good compromise for the few times that we watch movies during bright daylight glaring on the screen. and then I can use my calibrated ADV mode +90% of the time .

I havent been following this thread for over a year and have a few questions.

1. Did anyone ever find a work around to the DLP Link issue and disabling it. I have the IR glasses and the flash crushes things.

2. I have the converter box so can I just get and use DLP Ling Glasses instead?

3. I bought an Onkyo RC 360 and try to run my 3D Bluray player to it via HDMI and then HDMI to my 3da1 adapter and then to the tv. It would allow for 3d mode. the same can be said it i hook in my ps3 the same way. Any idea's?

It is very unlikely Mitsubishi will ever offer software that adds the ablity to turn off the DLP Link feature. That feature is most likely integrated into the 3D signal processing in the TV. After all it must be perfectly sync'd to the sub-frame display of eye view. In later models Mitsubishi most likely has two versions of that 3D signal processing, one that does not add the DLP Link and another that does. I know that when I switch this feature there is a blanking before the video comes back, that may be the add or changing the processing file. If this was never written for the older models, it is unlikey Mitsubishi went back a re-wrote the software for the older models to add this feature.

As for passing 3D from your PS3 through your AVR, it should work as long as the AVR formally supports 3D. If your Owner's Guide AVR does not indicate support for 3D, then most likely it will not but if it does inidcate support, then most likely you will be fine. The HDMI LLC. rules for device such as AVR, is the need to formally list the features they support especially when they support features that are optional. 3D support of an AVR is optional so if the AVR does support this, it should be listed.

If you can't find this in the Owner's Guide, you can check the web site for the manufacturer of the AVR. It should be in the specs on the web site as well.

Hey guys... just wanted to update you guys on my 73737...

Info:
Purchased NEW 03/02/2010 from HH Gregg in Charlotte, NC
Purchased with 5 year FULL COVERAGE Premium Service Plan
Knowing that I had the warranty is use my tv every day on extremely bright settings but dont know much about what I was doing. Bulb Energy was set at the highest possible I think.

No issues at all UNTIL this week. Fri night I went down to my theater to turn it on andit booted to the Mits startup screen like normal but this time the indicator light blinked repeatedly and never stopped and the startup screen never went away. I held the power button down until the tv powered down, then tried it again. After doing that twice, it finally came back on. Since my tv is 2.5 years old and used to be my wife and I's main living room tv before we bought our new house, I expected the usage hours to be VERY high and the likely culprit was a bulb. I couldn't remember the code to check the hours so I check this thread out, used the code and BAM....

7,823 HOURS!!!
Original Bulb!

Called HH Gregg at 2:30am Sat morning... spoke to a service rep. They dispatched a service technician company who will arrive at the house on Monday with a new bulb and will check out any other potential issues. I also requested a firmware update for fear of trying to do it myself and to have the inside of my tv dusted/cleaned. They said, "No problem, Mr. Elmore. We will be glad to take care of that for you."

I guess that $400 I spent on the full premium 5 year transferable warranty is not looking so bad right now. I will call and have them replace the bulb atleast one more time before my warranty runs out assuming there are no other issues with the tv. They also offered to ship me a bulb and let me do it myself (which I will do next time after watching the tech do it this time) OR for me to go buy one locally/online and reimburse me for it. If I had to wait on the tech any longer than a few days I would have gone one of those routes.

So my question for you guys... has anyone else had the same powering up issue? Is that the indication that a bulb replacement is needed? How many hours have you guys typically been getting out of your bulbs?

The Welcome screen is displayed using the bulb, so I think the bulb is still working. The meaning of the LED blinking is listed in the owner's manual, page 9 for the version I have.
I have around 6700 hours on my original bulb (2009 WD-65737). I have a spare bulb, but I haven't installed it yet. I will be doing that soon, as I imagine this bulb is getting dimmer with age.

Good luck on your repairs.

That's a firmware issue, eventually it will remain stuck on the welcome screen, the update should fix it. I had about 6000 hours on my lamp until I replaced it due to dimming.

The firmware update and lamp replacement are quite simple, keep the old one for a spare, order a new one, test it and store it for future use. Keep track of the hours as it doesn't keep track of the lamp hours but the set itself and can't be reset.
Edited by colour - 9/16/12 at 8:42am

REALLY? ok... so the firmware update will be necessary.

My bulb isn't really that dim that I can tell even now at 7847 hours. I have noticed it taking longer to get to full brightness and even the picture is not as clear until the bulb warms up. Is that typical for a failing bulb? Or should I wait til after the firmware update is done, see how things work, then keep the bulb they bring and put it in later when it truly goes all the way out?

Thanks for all your help guys!

You'll notice a difference with a new lamp, since it gradually dims it's sometimes hard to notice until you see it with the new lamp. It's up to you if you want to use the lamp till it dies but I would at least test a new lamp when you get it just to make sure it works. I would wait for the firmware update before replacing the lamp.

If the firmware update doesn't fix the stuck on the welcome screen issue you will need a new main board.

Repair guy was in and out in 15 minutes. Firmware update fixed the issue but apparently they have to come back with the new bulb. Damn. Anyways... he was asking me about types of bulbs. I said I have no idea... I'll have to ask the guys on AVS lol.

He said something about 3 different kinds... base model, philips?/phelps? hard to understand him, OR the best was OSRAM which he would have to order and come back and install because they dont make them with the housings pre-attached. Which one should I go with? Any reason I shouldn't get the OSRAM since its supposed to be the best and its free no matter what I get?

I have a day or two to change my mind since they had to order it so any input would be much appreciated as was the suggestion that my issue might be a firmware issue... turned out to be right!

Some people change their bulb before the old one dies.. That way you can test the new one and save the old one for emergency if the other (new) one pops.

Someone has to chime in as to who manufactures the original Mits lamp as I don't remember, I believe it's Phillips, but I would get one that comes with the housing the way Mits sells them. I believe OSRAM is Sylvania and I don't consider them to be the best.

My MITS is still new enough i have not had to replace the lamp yet...

But I did just have a very positive experience with the folks at DLPLamps.com when I needed a bulb and housing for my Sony RP set. On the forum for those sets the peeps strongly recommend the Philips bulbs and that is what I went with for the Sony - prob will do the same when the time comes for the Mits. Hope this helps?!

PS Just checked, they have the Mitsubishi OEM lamp only for $109, $129 with housing...

Mitsubishi has the lamp with housing for $99, it's always been $99 for the 2009 model. Usually the only way you beat that price by any substantial amount is to get one without a housing or non oem. I'm pretty sure they are Phillips lamps.

Mitsubishi DOES NOT use Phillips lamps, they use OSRAM lamps. There is no evidence that Phillips is better than OSRAM, especially when the TV manufacturer designs around OSRAM lamps.

I suggest you just get the specified lamp from Mitsubishi at the $99. It comes with the full housing in the method of replacement intended by the TV manufacturer. Getting lamps without the entire houseing or from sources other then the authorzied sources can get the incorrect lamp. Based on the good life indicated by others in this same thread, why would you want to take a chance. Also, a bare lamp might be touched by bare fingers when replced in the used housing and this shortens the life of the lamp. The old housing may have changed shapes or become more brittle with the heat over the years and new housing is just that a new housing. Again why take unnessary chances.

That's the issue because the ballast manufacturer should match the lamp manufacturer. I don't think one lamp (OSRAM and Phillips) is better over the other but definitely get one with the housing. I replaced mine once kept the old as a spare and have another new one both purchased from Mits.

Thanks for all of your responses about the bulb guys... COST is no thing for me... I bought a 5 year full coverage warranty that is good for 3 more years. I just want the best bulb. The original bulb that is in my TV is actually still running strong and currently at 7,894 hours. I think I might go with an OE bulb just because its been a good one. Hey, if nothing else everything is covered by the warranty so if I dont like the bulb I call the guys back and get a different one.

So which is the Original Equipement... Phillips or OSRAM?

I think you missed our point - if you are worried about Phillips or Osram then you are looking to get a bare lamp (they are lamps not blubs). To get Original Equipment lamp DO NOT get a bare lamp. Simply get the offical replacement Lamp Assembly from Mitsubishi for $99 plus shipping and tax.

The part number and method to get the lamp from Mitsubishi is on the rear cover of the TV Owner's Guide, AND on the lamp replacement instruction page of the Owner's Guide.

To get the Owner's Guide simply go to Mitsubsihi web site and go to the Support Page. www.mitsubishi-tv.com. From that page you can download the Onwer's Guide and there is a link to the Mitsubishi parts department where you can order the lamp on-line.

You get the correct lamp with a new housing and do not need to worry about brand of lamp. By the way, as said before Mitsubishi uses Osram, not Phillips.

No I understood your point completely. You aren't understanding mine. I didn't necessarily WANT an OE bulb and I dont get the option of just BUYING the $99 one from Mits. The company that my warranty is through will actually get it. They were nice enough to give me a choice of ones to get. I can get the OE Mits housing/bulb combo if I I want, but I would RATHER have the best bulb possible for my tv, whichever one that is. If that happens to be the OE housing/bulb combo then thats what I'll go with. Either way I dont have to put it in, I'm not responsible for bulb life decrease, and I can get it replaced any time I want to for the next 3.5 years. I simply want the brightest one that will give the clearest picture.

As far as the TYPE of bulb it is.... I was ASKING a question about the OE bulb manufacturer. WHO MAKES IT? Mitsubishi sure as hell doesn't. I have heard two people say two diff things. One said Osram makes it, the other said Phillips makes it. Which is it?

The point is you should get the OE lamp with housing, there is no best as far as I'm concerned between Osram and Phillips. Only one person stated who makes Mits lamps, I stated I wasn't sure and someone else would have to chime in. If someone says something is better I would want to know what that is based on other than just an opinion.