2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 360

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Here's my latest calibration data for my wd-65837 done with Calman 4 and a Eye One Pro. This is about the best these sets can do without an external video processor with calibration controls. Please let me know what you all think.

WD-65837.pdf 155k .pdf file

I agree you have done all you can do. And the numbers look good for the 2009. I have been using a DUO 09 for sometime an it allowed me to control blue luminance bug. I switched the DUO ovrer to my 92" and rand that way for many month but am at this time just using the CMS in the 92840 and not the CMS in the DUO.

The DUO is for me is being used as a glorified Edge. I think mine has some CMS stability problems. I will be installing a Lumagen in a week or so. Teh Lumagen will enable 3D LUT so I won't be using the CMS much in the 92840. I will send the DUO back to DVDO for checkout. If they solve the problem with it I will put it back on the 82837. I really only need it to control the excessive blue luminance with it on the 2009.

These 09 sets are so hard because of the high blue luminance. That is not a problem with the 2011. The thing with the 2011 is blue is undersaturated in Natural not by a lot but I should be able to get a dE of <.0.50 on blue or no more than 1.0... I would like to see good tracking at 25, 50, 75 and 100 percent saturations. I have the 82837 relegated to a spare room as it is just too dim without pushing the contrast out where the set gets very unlinear.

What do you guys think is a fair price to ask for my 73737? I'm making the jump to front projection in my theater and if I can get enough for it, I'm going to sell my beloved 73" DLP... otherwise my unborn children are getting a monster playroom tv.

Its coming with:

the Mitsubishi stand in mint condition ($300 new)
2.5 years left on a 5 year premium transferable warranty from HH Gregg ($400 new so half of that)
Original remote control
Owners Manual
Original Receipts
2012 Firmware Update
Right at 8000 hours total on the tv
BRAND NEW bulb with less than 30 hours on it (would have been $100)
Cleaning solution and microfiber cloth I received w/ tv when I bought it
Box and all packing materials (not that anyone would really want them but I do have them if they do)
Purchased NEW from HH Gregg March of 2010

A fair price is probably around $1000, but don't expect to get close to that. Used electronics purchases are very risky to the buyer. Because of that, I wouldn't expect to get more than $400-$600, unless you sell to someone you know.

500 bucks

Wow... Its not like the technology is outdated were not talking about a tv that is standard def or doesn't have hdmi. They haven't even upgraded the new models since this one was made. Besides, I was already offered $1000. I didn't turn it down yet but I was hoping to get more.

And btw guys... the stand alone for that tv is easily worth $200 by itself. Its furniture, not electronics.

LOL - wow did you really go with "used electronics are risky to buyers"? LMAO... you didn't read my post huh? IT COMES WITH A FULL COVERAGE PREMIUM WARRANTY... I could drop it out down the stairs and get a replacement... literally.
Edited by ten8yp - 10/3/12 at 5:57pm

You asked, people answered.

I bought that same stand on craigslist last year (NIB) for $75.

The 73640 has been as low as $750 NEW recently, the 73740 has been under $1K NEW, and the 73C11 has been under $900 NEW

Warranties don't really have value as many people don't buy them to begin with.

If you can get $1K, I'd grab it, but the going rate is closer to what others said ~ $500.

Used electronics loose a lot of value as soon as they hit the home. It has always been that way. While you are correct, it is very good TV and offers most of what the brand new models offer, it still looses value when you are asking other people to pay money for a used TV.


Even when a manufacturer is trying to establish value for settlement purposes, they use something in the area of 10% per year. So a 3 year old TV is down by 30% in value. Add the fact that the price of the replacement model currently being sold (if there is a replacement) is already 5 - 10% lower than your TV was when it was new.

The matching stand - if it is the Mitsubishi branded stand - is customized to the bottom of the Mitsubishi TV so has little use for other TVs. If the stand is another brand, then the top surface is flat and usable for any proper sized and weight of TV.

Guess you're right... although I guess opinions are like *******s. Everyone has them some just smell worse than others.

I would LOVE to see references where you found those prices. I know lots of people looking for them for that kinda pricing. Funny that they never show up in the GREAT FOUND DEALS forum.

And to respond to "no one buys warranties anyways"... people who are willing to purchase a $1000+ piece of electronics and NOT buy an extended warranty are a complete idiots, morons, fools etc etc etc.


Understood... I'm not new to market price degradation. But these two guys above are talking about 65-70% loss of value. Thats insane and I'll hear nothing of it. I didn't ask what THEY would be willing to pay for it. Thanks for atleast giving me an accurate appraisal of what it might be worth GEP. More than anyone else in this thread has tried to do. Good thing I'm moving on to projection systems and will never have to deal with the idiots that plague the Mits threads.
Edited by ten8yp - 10/3/12 at 6:07pm

Nobody uses that sub-forum.

And I would point you to those deals, but you seem like an ass.

Lol... no. You CANT point me to those deals because you're full of ****. Not an ass but I AM tired of hearing the stupidity in this thread. It got really bad when trying to ask about bulbs and this is just icing. I'm done with it.
Edited by ten8yp - 10/3/12 at 6:12pm

Even an idiot could find those deals.

Let me know if you still need help.

40 years of purchasing electronics and I've never bought, needed or wanted an extended warranty. The logic is simple, more than likely a decent product will last long enough to get your money's worth until it breaks. I'll get a new and advanced product with the money I saved not buying a warranty instead of that money going into a product that lost a crapload of value.....such as your TV. The person that you should be calling an idiot is the one that offered you $1000 and yourself for purchasing insurance on your TV and now you won't recoup your investment..

I am at home watching a 73837 right now. I told you what I thought it was worth and what I thought it would sell for. That was based on my opinion of the TV ($1000) and what I've seen them sell for ($400-$600). Also, you asked about a fair price for the TV, not the remote, owners manual, stand, microfiber cloth, box, and warranty, etc. the way your post is worded, you were including that other stuff in for free. Or did you want my opinion on the separate values of the owners manual, warranty, cloth and box, etc as well? (ten cents for the box, $25 for the stand, $0 for everything else on the list, including the warranty).

I have no stake in the result whether you sell the TV for $1000, or if you give it away. I also don't care if you agree with my response or not. You asked, I responded. I was only trying to help you. If you only wanted replies that you agreed with, you should have stated something like "please reaffirm my belief that my TV will actually sell for this price" instead of "what do you guys think?".

In the end, the only right answer is found when the amount someone's offer and the amount you accept is the same number, and no one has more control over that than you. For example, someone close to me recently sold their car. It was appraised at $6400. It was listed at $5900. It sold for $4900.



You appear to have misquoted Stew4msu's post, here is what was actually stated.

"Many people" has a different meaning from "no people" or "all people".

As to your statement


there are "many people" who don't buy warranties and who have that same opinion about the people who do buy them.
Edited by Augerhandle - 10/8/12 at 11:25am

Hey guys I have a question. So I bought these True Depth 3D DLP Link glasses and had them since maybe Christmas last year. They worked amazing till right now.

For some reason I was watching The Avengers and The Titanic on 3D bluray and the glasses are always desyncing when I would sit down. When I stand up, the glasses sync. Before it would be synced regardless, and I could be maybe 20 ft. away and still get a good sync.

Now that's not the case! Also when watching The Avengers in 2D, my sister says the picture seems to be dimming constantly? I've noticed that when watching NFL games in HD, the picture doesn't look as great as it used to.. Could this be a problem with the DLP bulb maybe? I haven't tried using the "Bright" mode in the Energy settings because I'm afraid it will ruin my bulb faster. I've had this TV since in 2010.

How many hours on the lamp?

Is there room to turn up the contrast control? If not, It may be time to order a new lamp.

I'm actually not sure how to check how many hours the lamp has, I went through the menu>initial but the timer option seems to be greyed out...

@Augerhandle my TV is always set at Brilliant picture so the contrast is always maximum.

Not to disparage your settings, but it is recommended to set these sets somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4 of max contrast. As the lamp ages, it can be turned up to compensate.

Anyway, if you're already maxxed out and having sync issues, it's likely that it's time to change the lamp.

@Augerhandle thank you for the fast reply! I've always just thought the picture looked great on Brilliant setting so I left it there.

I'm going to check and see if I'm still under a warranty for the TV

You're welcome. The lamp is a normal replacement item. $99 plus shipping and handling from Mitsubishi, and comes with the cartridge so all you do is slide the old lamp out and the new lamp back in. https://mitsuparts.3diamonds.com/ModelSelection.aspx

Save the old as a spare, as sometimes the lamps just go out. Then you'll be able to watch TV with the spare until the next lamp ships.

Oh, and don't buy "discount" lamps. People all over the forums have had issues with everything from poor lamp life to the TV not turning on. Only use lamps from Mitsubishi.

Yeah turns out my 3yr warranty from Fry's Electronics isn't expired yet, but it doesn't cover lamp replacements, so bummer d:

I'm going to order one from trusty ol' Mits then. Thank you!

When you put in the new lamp, DON'T put it on Brilliant.

Brilliant picture mode does not make any difference to the lamp. The Energy mode of Standard or Bright is the only setting in the TV that affects the lamp. Standard runs the lamp at the lower wattage - I think it is somewhere around 150 watts. Bright runs the lamp at the higher wattage of 180 watts. It is said that the lamp lasts longer in the lower wattage setting.

The picture modes affect only the way the picture is processed, not the way the lamp works. The lamp sends constant light and it does not change the light by picture content or picture settings, only by the energy setting. So Brilliant does not the harm the lamp any more than does Natural. It does process the picture differently but it does not change the lamp usage.

Other picture settings such as Contrast and Brightness also do not affect the lamp, again because the lamp light output is constant and does not change by these settings.

A flickering lamp is an indication the lamp is getting old, also the lamp brightness does reduce with age. However changing Contrast because of the lamp’s natural age related diming is just compensating in picture processing for the lamp being less bright, not changing the lamp’s brightness.

Never said it did, but thanks for typing out what most already know.

Exactly, which is why you DON'T want it on Brilliant mode.

I don't understand, I think Brilliant mode looks good? d:

Well, you have to do what you like, however, brilliant mode is not an accurate picture. Colors are overblown and because of this the image isn't as crisp as it could be.

It makes everything like watching a cartoon or a Pixar Movie - and cartoons and Pixar movies don't have real life colors.

Get it off torch mode, calibrate it with a disc and watch it that way for 2 weeks. Then switch back to Brilliant and you'll wonder how you ever watched it that way.

I appreciate the post and do agree your setting are an improvement, but I was hoping you could supply some other details the tech had set after the calibration. Those would be the Deep Field, sharpness, video noise... basically all the other advanced settings other than those listed. Thanks

Simple. Keep all those settings off. They only add artifacts to the image that aren't representative of the source material.