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2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 361

post #10801 of 11219
Will Mitshubishi still sell the lamps for 73c9? Or should I buy a backup. I went the cheap route and got a bulb off amazon for 60$. Which after reading this forum I think I will regret doing so.
Edited by twysteds0ul - 12/7/12 at 3:29am
post #10802 of 11219
I'd but some housings and just replace bulbs for the test of the life of the TV
post #10803 of 11219
The housings would not be available separatly.
post #10804 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by nikknightt View Post

I have a WD60C9 just over 2yrs old.
It has a white fog in the lower portion of the screen that shows during really dark or black scenes.
Anybody know what that is?
Thanks.

It's in the lower portion of the screen from the left all the way to the right.
post #10805 of 11219
My 82837 has a few white dots showing up. Bummer, have had no problems up to this point. Just ordered a new chip and it is supposed to be the DC4 which I understand are less prone to failure. Should be here next week and it looks like an easy diy. This is just after dealing with my pro subwoofer amp failure. Hope all goes well.
post #10806 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Impala1ss View Post

I have the same set and bought the 3-D adaptor. I never got used to, or liked the 3-D because of the dimming of the picture and the hassle of the glasses. As a matter of fact, when i got a new AVR 5 months ago I removed the 3-D adaptor.
I wonder, however, (for anyone to answer) can I get a Blue ray DVD player that would allow me to see 3-D without the adaptor?

My Yamaha AVR has two HDMI outputs. I set up one as normal into TV HDMI-1 and set up the other going through the adapter into HDMI-2 with the TV 3D settings enabled, TV on brilliant and color settings adjusted with the glasses on. Has worked ok for us.
post #10807 of 11219
I was watching Last Resort last night and heard a loud noise and the picture went black...I knew I should've ordered a spare lamp months ago. Ordered one first thing this morning and hopefully it won't take too long to get here.
post #10808 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDKing2 View Post

My 82837 has a few white dots showing up. Bummer, have had no problems up to this point. Just ordered a new chip and it is supposed to be the DC4 which I understand are less prone to failure. Should be here next week and it looks like an easy diy. This is just after dealing with my pro subwoofer amp failure. Hope all goes well.
well the DLP chip in your set was always a dark chip 4 version. last time i saw a dark chip 3 version was in the 2007 models.
post #10809 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by cid67 View Post

well the DLP chip in your set was always a dark chip 4 version. last time i saw a dark chip 3 version was in the 2007 models.

Did not know that. Hopefully it is a newer revision. None the less have the chip and will be installing in the AM. Cheap fix for $159
post #10810 of 11219
Is the chip a plug-in socket or solder to the circuit board?
post #10811 of 11219
Just plugs into a socket. Repaired my TV yesterday. Was pretty simple. Took about 2.5 hours with the thorough cleaning of the optics and chassis interior.
post #10812 of 11219
I installed a Phillips lamp into the cartridge of my 60737 replacing the original still working Osram and re calibrated using settings from when the set was new. The PQ is wonderful once again, I had tried one of the cheapo cartridge replacements awhile back and never could get the picture dialed in. I put the Osram into that housing and it will now be my quick replacement backup. Honestly looking at the build quality or should I say lack of between the no name lamp and either the Phillips or Osram is pretty telling, you do get what you pay for. Now to get some 3D glasses and I should be good to go. The RPTV is dead long live the RPTV
post #10813 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDKing2 View Post

My Yamaha AVR has two HDMI outputs. I set up one as normal into TV HDMI-1 and set up the other going through the adapter into HDMI-2 with the TV 3D settings enabled, TV on brilliant and color settings adjusted with the glasses on. Has worked ok for us.

Is the picture still dark with this arrangement?
post #10814 of 11219
In Brilliant mode with the color settings change I would say it is comparable to the natural setting. Cannot get the color perfect, but I would not expect to when viewing through darkened glasses. I prefer the set on bright for most viewing though, it is darker than my setup for HDMI 1. Nice thing about the setup is switch the tv to HDMI 2 and pop in the 3D Blu Ray. I do have the receiver to setup to output only on HDMI 2 in this mode as well because if a non 3D device (HDMI 1) is present in the chain 3D output is halted from the Blu Ray player. On my Yamaha if set to output on HDMI 1+2 this happens. Found this out the hard way. Customer support from Mits or Yamaha were no help.
post #10815 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtallent View Post

Yes, I have the Panasonic DMP-DBT-300 and I think the 210 Panasonic will output "checkerboard" 3D signal that will not require a 3D adapter. Any player that will output the "checkerboard" 3D format should work without the adapter.
Mike T[/quote

Sorry for the delay. Will I still need the same glasses as I got with the adaptor? or another type?






Sorry for the delay. Will I still need the same glasses as I got with the adaptor? or another type?
post #10816 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Impala1ss View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtallent View Post

Yes, I have the Panasonic DMP-DBT-300 and I think the 210 Panasonic will output "checkerboard" 3D signal that will not require a 3D adapter. Any player that will output the "checkerboard" 3D format should work without the adapter.
Mike T[/quote
Sorry for the delay. Will I still need the same glasses as I got with the adaptor? or another type?
Sorry for the delay. Will I still need the same glasses as I got with the adaptor? or another type?

If the glasses were designed to work with the DLP sets, then they will be OK. The "37" series of DLP will only accept 3D in "checkerboard" format so if you 3D player will output this format then you do not need any adapter and the glasses do not change this.

Mike T
post #10817 of 11219
Which would be better with the 65737 as far as 3D glasses.
The DLP Link glasses or the BT's with IR emitter??? Cost wise for two is about the same, but the BT's without emitter are around $20 apiece and supposedly very light?
post #10818 of 11219
You cannot turn off the DLP Link light flash on these DLP models, so I think that using the DLP Link glasses would help in reducing the color shift caused by the flash. I have only used the DLP Link glasses on my 65837 so I have not really tested this theory.

Mike T
post #10819 of 11219
Hey I was wondering if any of you fellow owners of the 3DA-1 have used the Popcornhour A-400 and had the 3D work with DLP Link?
post #10820 of 11219
So.. My wd82837 shut down this morning on first power up of the morning, it lasted about 10 minutes before the shut down.

The yellow light blinked and then went off. Read the service manual and it said the TV was too hot.

I recently changed the bulb around Thanksgiving and that bulb blew around Christmas time. I am guessing that the fan is going bad.

Now, usually I'd buy stock parts but I have experience in computers and think I could get a fan with a lot more static pressure.

Couldn't I just get a 120mm fan and change the fan header/connector out?

Should I also change the sirocco fan out too?

Btw, I just cleaned the entire optical engine, including fans, when I got this TV off cl. The TV is in a nice cool area and my home is cooled to 72 degrees or less all the time.


So, if the lamp is getting to hot, it's either the fans or sensor. Since I blew a bulb within a month, I am guessing it's a fan.

What do you think I should do?
post #10821 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyB View Post

So.. My wd82837 shut down this morning on first power up of the morning, it lasted about 10 minutes before the shut down.

The yellow light blinked and then went off. Read the service manual and it said the TV was too hot.

I recently changed the bulb around Thanksgiving and that bulb blew around Christmas time. I am guessing that the fan is going bad.

Now, usually I'd buy stock parts but I have experience in computers and think I could get a fan with a lot more static pressure.

Couldn't I just get a 120mm fan and change the fan header/connector out?

Should I also change the sirocco fan out too?

Btw, I just cleaned the entire optical engine, including fans, when I got this TV off cl. The TV is in a nice cool area and my home is cooled to 72 degrees or less all the time.


So, if the lamp is getting to hot, it's either the fans or sensor. Since I blew a bulb within a month, I am guessing it's a fan.

What do you think I should do?

Unplug set, plug back in , hold power till 2 seconds after blue light flashes.
Set should come on & stay on.
post #10822 of 11219
It could be a loose J-4 connection.
I just learned hot to reset it.
If I leave my set on after reset, it will stay on forever. (at least a week)
I think it is the cold/heat expanding & contracting cabinet.
If you had problem only after bulb, try taping shot off on lamp door recess.
post #10823 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyB View Post

So.. My wd82837 shut down this morning on first power up of the morning, it lasted about 10 minutes before the shut down.

The yellow light blinked and then went off. Read the service manual and it said the TV was too hot.

I recently changed the bulb around Thanksgiving and that bulb blew around Christmas time. I am guessing that the fan is going bad.

Now, usually I'd buy stock parts but I have experience in computers and think I could get a fan with a lot more static pressure.

Couldn't I just get a 120mm fan and change the fan header/connector out?

Should I also change the sirocco fan out too?

Btw, I just cleaned the entire optical engine, including fans, when I got this TV off cl. The TV is in a nice cool area and my home is cooled to 72 degrees or less all the time.


So, if the lamp is getting to hot, it's either the fans or sensor. Since I blew a bulb within a month, I am guessing it's a fan.

What do you think I should do?
First things first. Where did you get your replacement lamp? Aftermarket lamps are notorious for failing early and causing other problems, including start up and random shut down issues.. Always get the lamp from Mitsubishi.
post #10824 of 11219
It's an Osram lamp. Got it from a Mitsubishi service center.

I read the service manual wrong and the previous two posts were right about j4. The code was "lamp door" not "too hot"

Found the lamp switch online for $4 and it would cost me about $20 to get it soldered (I don't do removal very well, lol)

So, if the reset doesn't help I'll order that part and be done with it (hopefully)
post #10825 of 11219
Anyone know the code for accessing the isf settings?
post #10826 of 11219
The code is listed in the owners manual
post #10827 of 11219
If anybody is interested i have 4 pairs of the 3d glasses that came with the mits 3d starter kit for sale. Glasses are in mint condition, pm me for details.
post #10828 of 11219
Not sure where to ask but need to know if the cabinet for the 737 is the same as the cabinet for the 738 model year.
post #10829 of 11219
js why do you ask? I have 737 chassis here if you have the 738 and need to know something in particular on the 737 chassis.
post #10830 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

The code is listed in the owners manual
No its not but I would love to have this for personal use on my own set, not to distribute as I know its privileged info.
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