2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 363

Not sure where to ask but need to know if the cabinet for the 737 is the same as the cabinet for the 738 model year.

js why do you ask? I have 737 chassis here if you have the 738 and need to know something in particular on the 737 chassis.

No its not but I would love to have this for personal use on my own set, not to distribute as I know its privileged info.

I'm sorry. It was in the 840 manual, I just assumed it would be in the 837 manual as well. For the 840 it is It's easy to remember, as it forms an "H" by going up the left side of the keypad (741), pressing 5 (middle), and then going down the right side (369). See if it works on yours.
Edited by Augerhandle - 1/14/13 at 6:10pm

Thanks Ill try it out .

Actually, it spells an "M" for Mitsubishi

paco.....

Screen gone bad on my 65738. Big bucks to replace new. Too much in fact. Looking for options. While I could be wrong I'm thinking the screens did not change all that much between model years. Models 5 years apart? They probably changed. But one year apart? Likely to be very close. Can't use the bezel as the frame is different. Wondering if I can use the screen though. Remove from a 737 donor and put in my 738......

I have service manual for the 738. It isn't that hard to swap the screens.

Before I spend 100 bucks on a non-working 737 though I have to be 100% certain. I can test the donor one by shining light from inside via the dust hole covers so it doesn't need to work to test the screen.

How did your screen go bad?

screen go bad....


Hard to explain where a picture would answer your question easily.

Something happened either between the 2 screens or to the inside screen. I have lines across the top 1/3 of the screen that are about 4 inches long. Looks like the lines someone would draw to make the corona of the sun.

Run across the entire top of the screen.

Have only cleaned the screen with damp lint free towel. There are no scratches, etc., on the outside. Outside screen is perfectly smooth. Threw the tech for a bit of a loop as well because it looks as if it could be noise in the signal path or something in the light engine. Although the picture is outstanding. He loosened the light engine so it could move around and move the image on the screen. If the lines moved with the image it would of course have been in the signal some how. The lines did not move. They are in or on the screen.

And the lines just happened. One day a couple of weeks ago turned it on and while it was coming on and the blue background I noticed them. Hard to see from across the room but very easy to see up close. I don't think it can actually pull away but it looks like something is pulling apart between the inner and outer screens. Cleaning it did not help. Tech said needs new screen. Tech also agreed it is very weird.

JS my 65737 is in a box, but my 65736 is out. Is there something visually I can check for you. IF I had to guess, I'd same they are the same as the tv's appear almost identical, at least at a glance.

Have you tried finding and crossing the part numbers?

Well, that does suck but since the screens already messed up, you should probably consider taking the screen out and carefully separating the Fresnel and lenticular layers of the screen. Perhaps there's some kind of contaminate in between them.

I once had some dark spots appear on the bottom of my screen. it turned out, a couple drips of screen cleaning solution had traveled down the screen during cleaning and the screen sucked them up in between the layers. I thought my screen was garbage but after separating the screen layers and drying the effected portions of it, everything was fine. The moral of the story is, you never know.

I would be surprised if the screens for these sets are different sizes, as long as donor TV is the same size. For Mitsubishi, it just makes good financial sense that they be the same size across models.

I agree that the screen itself across model years is probably interchangable. Problem is I don't want to spend money on an experiment. Would want to know for certain. The sure thing is putting money into new flat screen savings account and not waste any more money.

Am planning on taking screen/bezel off and looking at it. Risk is for now the TV is watchable. If I goof something up and make it worse, I'll be in the dog house.

Whatever it is it is clearly not on the outside screen. It has to be in the layer between the two or something on the inner screen.

And how it just suddenly showed up is hard to explain.

Thanks for your help.

Since my TV is a 738 my replies don't really belong in this thread.


http://www.avsforum.com/t/1258512/2010-mitsubishi-3d-dlp-owners-thread-738-838-series/8550#post_22836189

Not the screen.....

I have a WD60C9 almost 2.5 yrs old.. It was turned off for over a week while on vacation and now it has spots all over the upper left hand side of the screen.
It doesn't matter what the source is. Dtv,, BD, PS3.
I've heard people talk about light engines, chips etc etc.
I'm attaching a picture. Can someone please veriify what this is??
Thanks.

Looks like a dmd chip to me.

Thanks. Just watched a shopjimmy..com video on what it looks like to replace it. Has anyone here done it?
Does it look like this video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=XeIOwN1CIp8#!

Guess I'll be calling Mitsu tomorrow. Any tips on dealing with them re: this issue?

Anybody know the cause of the chip failing? It has only taken 2 days to go from 1 bad pixel to this..

I've done it several times. I buy TVs from craigslist and repair and sell or keep. Got my 82" that way.

Just pony up the cash on shopjimmy and do it yourself if you have ever built a computer. It's really simple, just take pictures and clean the entire engine while you are in there. Just be careful of the lens.remember to buy some artic silver 5 for the new chip.

If you were to Just change the chip, it's a 10 minute fix, if you clean the light engine, it should take about 3 hours at the most for an extremely thorough cleaning..

By the way, dust is what killed your dmd, the newer ones handle heat better, but that is no excuse not to clean it

hey man Im contemplating cleaning the inside of the lens on my light engine lens assembly (WD-65837) any tips? I have cleaned the outside with a microfiber cloth but i haven't removed and cleaned the inside of that lens is there anything I should be aware of?

Don't bother with the effort. The lenses are basically sealed tighter than a drum.

There are two places you can get to but even the dirtiest TV I've seen doesn't have dirt/dust in those areas.

If you would like to try, unscrew the lens from the chassis and then to get in the middle of the lens (which didn't do any good) remove the two Silver screws on the board attached to the lens. Do not touch that mirror. It's first surface mirroring and scratches extremely easy.

If any of you guys ever have your light engine out, take out a toothbrush and screwdriver and camera. Dust every single part in there. The sirroco fan is tough but it's doable.

If you have an 837, be careful putting it back together, one of the connectors on the DMD board for a fan have the same exact connector for the dark detailer/iris.

I usually take everything apart, I'm left with pieces everywhere, and that includes the lamp housing where the cartridge goes.

That tiny area that the bulb shines through to the color wheel needs to be cleaned sometimes, depends on how dusty the set is.

Tools and supplies:
Philips head screwdriver
Rubbing Alcohol (high proof)
Toothbrushes
Viva paper towels
Windex or Clorox kitchen cleaner (for use on black pvc plastic only)
Monster screen cleaner and micro-fiber cloth
Artic silver 5 (always always replace the thermal grease, Mitsubishi used really ineffective stuff, and it will make your dmd last longer.)
Patience and maybe a couple beers as long as you are good at taking pictures lol.

I'll upload some pics if you'd like.
Edited by AnthonyB - 1/17/13 at 8:47pm

I have built PC's.. But my chip will be replaced by a technician.
Do you have any idea if they use thermal compound? Maybe I should buy some and ask him to use it..
Thanks for the tips..

I wouldn't know, but I'd have the Tim on hand right when he starts putting the heatsync back on.

If you are paying for it, he should do it, if Mits is paying for it, he probably won't.
Edited by AnthonyB - 1/20/13 at 10:17am

Hey guys I have a question for a wd-73737. About two weeks ago my lamp went out and I replaced it with a lamp from an authorized dealer near my house. He said it was an oem lamp and it is alot brighter now. I have done all the same calibrations that I had done prior with the old lamp but the picture just isn't as detailed anymore. The replacement bulb I was given came complete with housing. However, the flat facing of the bulb was smugged. For fear of damaging the lamp I installed it as is. Could this be the cause of my loss of crispness of picture or could it be something else. Or are my eyes just fooling me.

As a side note. My bulb did not explode it just went out. I honestly wish it would have just went out already it's time for an upgrade.

Hi all, looking for comments about bulb replacement for a WD65737. Bulb (915b403001). Any luck with off brands and or replacing just the bulb in the housing. It looks like the bulb alone is only about 10 dollars less then the entire unit. That is on a Philips bulb anyway.

Thanks Kelly

That bulb is used on many sets including mine wd-73737. Mits sells the Oem ones for 99$ with housing so make sure you don't pay more than that.

Make sure it's not a neolux either. Just a straight Osram.

New DMD chip installed. The Heat Sync has an expansion pad on the bottom to enhance heat transfer.
No more spots..

Never heard of an expansion pad. Hope it works out for you.

Do you have to use both HDMI outputs on the BDT300 to get both 3d and Dolby TrueHD or DTS-MA. Will a typical receiver pass a checkerboard 3d format through or will it muck it up somehow. E.g. I want to buy the Panasonic BDT-220 for $80, but I'm not sure if I can do 3d if I hook it up as BR -> Receiver -> Mitsubishi without the converter.

I meant Thermal Pad.

The thermal pads are what they do at the factory as well. They dry out and I can show you a picture of a bad chip with the thermal pad still on it.

Arctic Silver 5 is always my go-to TIM (Thermal Interface Material). I hope that it works out for you for the life of the chip, I'm sure it'll be fine.