2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 364

I connect the main HDMI output from the BDT-300 to my Onkyo 875 and then to the 65837 DLP, the TrueHD and DTS-MA stream fine to the 875. Checkerboard will pass through a regular HDMI connection as it requires no more bandwidth than 2D 1080P. I got the player with the dual HDMI outputs just in case my Onkyo did not work. I have the Mits 3D adapter but have not used it yet.

Mike T

Excellent. Thank you. I have an Onkyo 60x...9 maybe? I forget the exact year/model without going to look at it, but it's HDMI 1.4, etc. I've been looking at a newer 800 series, but haven't pulled the trigger. I have an ancient TX-DS747 hooked up to my computer as well. Sounds like I should be fine without an adapter if my sources have checkerboard.

Checkerboard will go through your receiver just fine

I ended up getting the BDT-310 as I snagged one for only $60. It has dual HDMI so it has flexibility if I choose to use it on another setup someday. Currently I only use one of the HDMI outputs as the checkerboard does indeed pass through my receiver fine. So far I boughy only a single pair of 3d glasses - the Sony Playstation branded ones. The vertical lens size could be a bit larger in my opinion. Also in the right lens I can see a bit of flicker sometimes (mainly dark scenes), but never have a problem with the left. Perhaps my right eye is just more perceptive and has enough acuity to see the lens turn on and off. Is this common? It wasn't really bothersome for the most part, but it'd be nice to not have it happen at all. Are there other glasses people recommend?

The flicker is most likely the dlp link, not sure if you can shut it off on the 737, I couldn't on the 736 model.

The DLP-Link "flash" occurs at 120 HZ,so it causes no discernable flicker.

But I think it interferes with the IR glasses. I noticed the same thing using the same glasses on my 736.

Quick question does anyone know a good price to sell my wd-65837?

Probably about 650

This may be hard to explain properly but after replacing my DMD chip there are a couple of faint circles on the screen when there's a black/blank screen between displayed pictures.
For example, The split second between a program and a commercial. It's not noticeable at any other time.

Anybody know what this could be? Dust on the lens?
If the repair tech touched the back side of the chip could a fingerprint be the cause? I didn't get a chance to look at the chip to know if that even makes sense.
We were careful not to blow dust forward towards the screen when cleaning the inside of the chassis. The plastic was only wiped down with a damp cloth.

Maybe something on the lens. You should have done it to save the headache. Way to easy. Especially for someone that has worked on computers in the past

The last two days when I turn the TV on, after the power light blinks green for awhile, it goes solid red, without ever seeing anything on the screen. Manual says to unplug from the wall for a minute and try again, which so far works. I've been thinking the lamp is definitely getting old and dim, so it may be related (or not). I've got a new lamp coming, so we'll see. I've also got an emergency spare (the original lamp) in the closet, but I don't intend to go that route unless the current lamp flat-out dies before a new lamp arrives.

I'm still under Mack warranty for another few months, so if the new lamp doesn't clear it up, I should be able to get service under warranty.

Over 16k hours on the TV and only on the second lamp, so certainly the lamp has every right to be getting flaky at this point.
Edited by georule - 2/8/13 at 10:22am

I recieved the parts & labor for free. I couldn't install it myself.
The dude first took the light engine outside to work on it because there was more light. I told him to get his ass inside.
He knew the lens is fragile - He mentioned it. Should I complain to the Repair Shop? Mitsu?
Has anybody successfully cleaned their lens. If there a good chance it will get worse from trying to clean it - I'll skip it. Not that serious.

16k hours... I think you got your money's worth especially if you a warranty repair and get another 5K. You are starting to get into Plasma Panel lifespans!

Red is a lamp.. My guess is it's shattered and you could probably take it out and prove it.

Happened to mine in December

Oh, I can still coax it into working. I turned the Energy setting to "Bright" (which I think turns the lamp up to its rated 180W), and it didn't give me a problem when I tried to turn it on this morning. We'll see tomorrow. New lamp is ordered and should be here on Tuesday. And if I need an emergency spare should this lamp die entirely, I've got the original lamp that's got around 4k hours on it in the closet. I guess that means this lamp has 12k hours on it! Whee, didn't realize that until just now. I had noticed it was looking pretty dark the last few months and was beginning to think about a new lamp anyway before the red light thing happened.

Mitsu put a new light-engine in under the original warranty (had a few dozen dead pixels) just short of a year. Really can't complain how well I've done with this TV (60737) at the price, tho I'd surely like to get a few more years out of it until reasonably priced 4K TVs arrive.
Edited by georule - 2/9/13 at 6:51pm

The wife, who has the hearing of a bat, was in my office this evening, walked past the back of the TV, and said, "My goodness, how can you stand that shrieking?" That was enough for me, went to the emergency spare with 4k hours on it. No more shrieking, and wow, even on a "used" bulb it is indeed a lot brighter than it has been recently.

Now I'll have to decide what to do with the new lamp when it comes. I'll probably switch it in anyway, because the warranty on lamps is only 90 days, so if it is bad, need to find out sooner rather than later, and this one goes back to "Backup" --since we have two of these TVs, a 60" and a 65", that both use the same lamp, that works out well.

Well, there ya go. There is a service menu code if you want to post the errors.

It goes on hours the TV had on it when the error happened

Menu-3-5-6-4.

Use the channel up and down buttons on the TV remote to scroll pages.

I have a 73837 which is about 3 yrs. old. I replaced the bulb at 7500 hrs and had chip replaced under warranty due to white pixels.

I have the Mitsu. 3-D box (forgot #) and 2 pr. of 3-D glasses. I have disconnected this however due to the darkness of the 3-D picture and the 3-D effect only showing depth but no front things coming out of the pictiue (characters, spears, whatever).

The other night I was at my step-son's apt. and he had a new TV - Samsung I think. He gave me a demo of the 3-D effect using only non-shuttered glasses. The 3-D effect was amazing. No picture darkening and characters came out and floated about 15" in front of my face. Totally a different 3-D experience than the Mitsu. It obviously is a better technology than my Mitsu 3-D

My question is is there anyway to get this effect on my 75837? Anyway to be able to use non-shuttered glasses?

I have no problem getting images in 3D to be in front of the my 65837 TV, did you try the "reverse" setting on the 73837 I have to when using DLP Link glasses.

Mike T

Haven't had it hooked up (3-D) in a while but I tried everything. Got a lot of depth in the picture (looked like 3-D went out through the back of the set, not the front) but almost nothing coming out of the picture ( like the 1959-1960's 3-D movies). Step-son's set, an LG, had a cartoon character seem to be about 3 ft. out in front of the TV and about 18" in front of my eyes; like Disneyworld 3-D exhibits where objects seemed to hang in the air and are almost touchable. There was an enormous difference between my 3-D and his 3-D and he didn't have to use active shutter glasses, he used Passive glasses, nor did his picture dim while wearing the glasses. Still trying to find out if my set can somehow duplicate his.

I have an interesting problem that just occurred.

It is a colder rainy day in Tampa today and I have the windows and doors open..

Through the day, the picture had gotten blurry. What did I do to my TV? It's only in the center of the picture

Edit: it seems to be getting better after I closed the house up. Never noticed that before and I never figured the lenticular screen to be that sensitive to cold.

I hope it goes all the way back.
Edited by AnthonyB - 2/14/13 at 4:35pm

I just took ownership of a used 73837. Any tips, rules of thumb, advice for a longer, happier life with my beautiful new(to me) set?
Edited by lordcloud - 2/18/13 at 5:46pm

You might try the 2007 model forum

I meant 73837. Corrected.

It hasn't been updated in awhile, but you might find it worthwhile to review the FAQ linked in my sig.

Hello Friends!

Good to see I'm not the only one in the bulb business. Changed my first bulb at 10175 hours today. Wow...can't believe what a difference the new bulb makes. I can't get used to the bright whites!!!! I feel like a n00b. I had been thinking I need an ISF calibration lately...so glad I didn't spend the money with such an old bulb. Can't believe its been three yeas already. I was lucky to find someone in town with a bulb...and while I probably overpaid at $130, at least I haven't gone without for a period of days.

What are other people paying for a bulb?

I just purchased a new lamp from www.discount-merchant.com and was quite happy with the purchase. Here's a link to the lamp (get the one with the enclosure): http://www.discount-merchant.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=915b403001&Search.x=16&Search.y=13&Click=11342

You can also get the lamp directly from Mitsubishi. However, when I tried to buy one from there recently, they were adding a lot of additional fees such that the purchase totaled around $121US and then the purchase wouldn't go through (there was something wrong with the web site). This is why I ended up going with Discount Merchant.

I keep a spare lamp on hand so that if the lamp were to ever go out, I can just install my back-up and not have to go without the TV. Once I install the back-up, I then order a replacement lamp to replace my back-up.

I bought mine from Mits for about $121 all-in. They've added a s&h charge since last I bought a lamp from them, so they can claim the price of the lamp hasn't gone up. . . but it has by $15 since three years ago. S&H up by $8 and also $7 of sales tax they didn't used to charge (tho they may blame others for that).

Well, actually, to be precise (comparing my 2010 invoice to 2013), shipping is up by $3 from $7 to $10. There's a new "handling" charge of $5 that was not there at all in 2010. And sales tax of ~$7 that was not charged in 2010. So, anyway, the same $99 lamp costs $15 more in 2013 than 2010 by the time you're done ($121 in 2013 vs $106 in 2010).
Edited by georule - 2/26/13 at 12:16pm

I have the C9 model. I'm looking to finally add 3D and the adapter is no longer being produced and the price for the kits is ridiculous. The prices for used units of the 3DA-1 are inflated on ebay actually only getting higher as the demand increases due to scarcity. Is there another adapter I can use to convert any signal to the checkerboard signal needed? What I'm looking forward to is a little 3D gaming using my Xbox 360. I'm also trying to see if I need to snag one of these adapters for future use if I ever want to use my TV for additional 3D later down the road.