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2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 364

post #10891 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyB View Post

I have been having some problems with my setup recently that are kinda puzzling.
When my pioneer receiver switches on before my TV is powered up, the pioneer won't output HDMI to the TV.
I have been getting a string of error 17 on the TV, the other day it cut right off.
Seems as if there might be a link to this problem and the receiver problem but I can't figure out what it may be.
I cannot get the menu on the receiver until I power it off and back on. Someone mentioned bad cables, I will start with that until a better answers comes along.
There is also a 3dc in between the amp and TV. I will eliminate that for now.

I don't have any idea what the problem would be but just a note..
I have a Pioneer VSX-919AH and the TV won't show a picture unless the Pioneer is powered on first..
post #10892 of 11219
I think I figured it out.. At least the first part.. The 3dc was not powered on because the Harmony forgot to power it on or it was out of sync.

Then I believe that code 17 is happening because of a neolux bulb instead of osram. I was a little nipped after I found out neolux is the k-mart brand osram. Going to call the company that sold me the bulb and have them replace it.
post #10893 of 11219
I have a mits 73c9 TV. The TV is three years old and has 2900 hrs on it. The TV had worked fine until recently, the problem is when anything in white lettering appears on a black background I get a distorted image.The image appears to have too much light coming to the screen or makes the area almost gray. I have searched this forum and was unable to identify any resolution to this problem. I have also tried switching bulbs with no luck either. Does anyone have any suggestions or a fix? Thanks for any input.
post #10894 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by seese13 View Post

I have a mits 73c9 TV. The TV is three years old and has 2900 hrs on it. The TV had worked fine until recently, the problem is when anything in white lettering appears on a black background I get a distorted image.The image appears to have too much light coming to the screen or makes the area almost gray. I have searched this forum and was unable to identify any resolution to this problem. I have also tried switching bulbs with no luck either. Does anyone have any suggestions or a fix? Thanks for any input.

Can you provide a screenie? Have you played with the PQ settings at all? Are you doing the advanced PQ menu or the three options with two color temps?
post #10895 of 11219
I can provide pics tomorrow. I am using the brilliant setting with the 2 color temps. I have used these settings for 2 and a half years with no problem. I am using directtv service it is most noticeable when you change channels. The banner at the top of the screen is black and the CH listing is in white. The listing is blurry and the white light looks like it is bleeding out from the words.
post #10896 of 11219
My ISF calibrator tried brilliant on my 82837 it was just too vibrant. You might want to try a lower color setting
post #10897 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by seese13 View Post

I can provide pics tomorrow. I am using the brilliant setting with the 2 color temps. I have used these settings for 2 and a half years with no problem. I am using directtv service it is most noticeable when you change channels. The banner at the top of the screen is black and the CH listing is in white. The listing is blurry and the white light looks like it is bleeding out from the words.

How's the picture look otherwise? Can you try a different source such as the credits at the end of a movie? Could be your Directv box.
post #10898 of 11219
Seese13 does your tv have the removable ports holes on each side of the tv? If so, turn on the tv and remove one of the covers and look in at the lens - what you describe is what I've seen when the lens is all dusty. If so, it is an easy fix - just clean the lens smile.gif
post #10899 of 11219
I have tried to wipe off the lens with a dry micro fiber cloth, it seems the dust won't come off. Can I use a damp cloth or a cleaner. Is there any other part of the TV I should look to clean? Thanks
post #10900 of 11219
There are several spots that can get dusty OR smokey if in a smokey room.
That lens is plastic so you have to be careful with what you use, if you see dust there and it won't easily remove, then you may have to remove the screen to gently clean it with a damp cloth.
You really shouldn't see "dust" on the lens if it is clean.
The mirror in the back seldom gets dusty, but could get a smoke film on it - it is a first surface mirror and pretty delicate so don't clean it unless you need to.

Another easy to clean spot is the lamp and the glass by the lamp - the next piece in if you remove the lamp. Other than those, most places will require removing the light engine and internal to it.

There is a thread about "07-08 model halos" and cleaning - it may also pertain to this model.
post #10901 of 11219
I just cleaned the screen and mirror on my 82". I am the second owner of the TV and the previous owners smoked.

Not only did it take me 4.5 hours to clean the mirror, which had tobacco residue on it, the screen suffered this as well. A nice film of brown wiped off onto my special rag. It was gross.

If you ever decide to clean one, let me know. I have some pointers for you.
post #10902 of 11219
Anthony, we don't smoke in my house but I will try it to see if it will fix my issue. What tips do you have to assist me in completing this? Thanks.
post #10903 of 11219
Gloves, latex or whatever.

Monster screen cleaner

Johnson & Johnson synthetic cotton gauze pads .. . . big ones, about the size of your palm.

Charmin ultra-strong toilet paper.

Work on 1/4 of the mirror at a time. Spray it with monster and wipe with gauze. Then with the toilet paper, wipe off the film that the cleaner left. If it is too thick, start again.

The goal here is to get no image showing on the mirror that the TV is projecting. (Yes.. Do this with the TV on). If you see any tv image on the mirror, it is dirty.

The toilet paper falls apart eventually.. The best result is changing it often. If you get the gunk off the mirror enough, the toilet paper will start to remove the film that the cleaner and gunk left.

That is the whole trick to doing it.

Do NOT go into the TV without gloves. You will end up cleaning fingerprints off.

Edit: I went through 4 rolls of toilet paper.. That is how often you change it out.
Edited by AnthonyB - 3/8/13 at 7:22pm
post #10904 of 11219
Don't know if you got an answer to this, but I have the WD-73735 model, and am suspecting that surge fuse at the cause, though mine is not blown up like yours... However, I have AG9D00 on my board. Looks like the same component though. The part number is 299P340010, and it is Surge-Suppressor-DE37-452M-A21F. Hope this helps you.

I assume you had NO lights on in the front of the TV, the reset would not work, and no error lights could be made to come on???? This is my problem...that I have yet to resolve....
post #10905 of 11219
Anthony, I just looked through the side portholes on my TV on the mirror inside I can see the complete image that is on my TV screen. You are saying that I should not have a image on the mirror? Thanks for all your help
post #10906 of 11219
If you can see the complete image, you are looking at a 5 hour job like I had. If in doubt, point a flashlight at about a 15-30° angle and you can see whatever is building up on the mirror.. My LED flashlight was perfect so you might want to try using one.

From the sounds of it, be prepared to be mildly disgusted.

Once you start this job you can't stop until its done. Pull out your perfectionist hat.

The only thing you probably don't need to do is look for blemishes with the flashlight while cleaning, just make sure the image isn't shown on the mirror.

Another tip, make sure you are watching a high def source that fills the entire mirror with lots of action. I chose sportscenter
post #10907 of 11219
I live in Florida and humidity is a big issue, make sure you do the mirror cleaning with a relative humidity of less than 70% inside the house.

When I did this, the central was running and the indoor humidity was a hell of a lot less than it was outside.

This is a pretty important point I forgot.
post #10908 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyB View Post

My ISF calibrator tried brilliant on my 82837 it was just too vibrant. You might want to try a lower color setting

The goofy Bright and the worse Billiant picture mode settings have lousy gamma curves. One of the wasy they produce so much light is gamma is low on the dark end and gets lower as you move to high end. Also the color points are wide. You have hue and lightness control with the Perfect Color and Perfect Tint but you can't bring in the over saturated color. Unless you are using Advanced mode you have no control over gamma. Natural has a reasonable gamma but Blue is undersaturated and its luminance is too high and hard to control.

To use the Bright Mode which I do on my 92840 you need a video processoroutboad like a Lumagen Radiance or DVDO DUO. The DUO is limited because you are really only working at the gamut edge as the display is not all linear.

The proper way to really calibrate these things is with 3D LUT (look up table) either using what the Lumagen Radiance has or even something more sophisticated like EE or SpectraCal Color box. The Radiance will allow you to calibrate 125 color points, the Color box inot the thousands. For the most part this kind of Display profiling and calibration is done with an automatic process that uses interpolation to calculate the values for the colors in between.

I am very happy with my Lumagen Radiance XS and use ChromaPure to do the auto-calibration.. 125 points is only a 125 Points. If an opportunity comes along for me to affordably get a ColorBox and software to suppor it so I can get an even more accurate calibration, I will.

On the bigger sets like the 82837 they are light output challenged so they work best with lamp on Bright mode. This means the lamp wears faster and the sets need more frequent calibration. Doing it through an automatic process makes it pretty easy and practical to keep the set in calibration through the entire useful life of the lamp.Ten minutes of setting up the laptop and meter on a tripod, the computer works for 45 minutes and unattended and it is done.

I have both a ChromPure enhanced D3Display Pro meter, and an i1 Pro. The first is a colorimeter which can drift over time, the second a spectrometer which I use to verify the correct operation of the D3.Tje combination of the profiled D3 , the advanced 125 Point auto-calibration of the Radiance by ChromaPure gets you to 95% of what the display is capable of. I am still needing a lower stand.. and when and if the price is right I would like to use a Colorbox and calibrate 4000 color which with interpolation would get the display to produce the source color as accurately as possible throughout the color gamut.

I have an 82837 in one of my bedroom but it doesn't currently use. I have a DUO and it works pretty well for calibration the older Panasonic Plasma in my master bedroom.

I think at some point these 3D LUT table boxes will be quite cheap. I suspect it won't be long before that technology is integrated in TVs right out of the box. You will get a meter with the display and it will calibrate it just like you do know with Audyssey or the other systems built into AVRs.
post #10909 of 11219
I am pretty sure Gregg used ChromaPure to calibrate my TV with the spectroradiometer and color generator. After grey scale he used Jennifer and the dinner scene on DVE to adjust color and tint and used a pattern for contrast.

Either way, the TV looks fantastic. Gregg has been my calibrator since about 2004. The results are always outstanding.
post #10910 of 11219
Hi everyone. Just got a big scare today. My C9 wouldn't get past the welcome screen, then shut down. Learned about the firmware update from here and it worked.

I've never messed with 3D, but it seems like a fun thing to try. I have a PS3, Xbox 360 and an Emotiva UMC-200. Thinking about getting an Oppo 103 for the 2D-3D conversion. What is all required to get it running, glasses and an emitter right? Are some better than others? Anyone who can help me enter the world of 3D would be greatly appreciated!

One more thing to add. I have those sources plus a Mac Mini and a DirecTv box. They all get run to the pre/pro then HDMI to the TV. Is there a certain input mode on the TV I should call it? It's on AVR right now and says PC when I press the info button, but wasn't sure if I was missing anything if it was set to another one. The menu on this TV is pretty confusing to me.
Edited by gostillerz - 3/11/13 at 12:01pm
post #10911 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by gostillerz View Post

Hi everyone. Just got a big scare today. My C9 wouldn't get past the welcome screen, then shut down. Learned about the firmware update from here and it worked.

I've never messed with 3D, but it seems like a fun thing to try. I have a PS3, Xbox 360 and an Emotiva UMC-200. Thinking about getting an Oppo 103 for the 2D-3D conversion. What is all required to get it running, glasses and an emitter right? Are some better than others? Anyone who can help me enter the world of 3D would be greatly appreciated!

One more thing to add. I have those sources plus a Mac Mini and a DirecTv box. They all get run to the pre/pro then HDMI to the TV. Is there a certain input mode on the TV I should call it? It's on AVR right now and says PC when I press the info button, but wasn't sure if I was missing anything if it was set to another one. The menu on this TV is pretty confusing to me.

If your are going to run 3D without the adapter you will need a BD player that generates Checkerboard output. I don't know if the Oppo's do. The Pansaonics do and you really need one that has dual HDMI out so you can send audio directly to the AVR and Checkerboard video directly to the TV. I had a 3D adapter and I found it to be a POS because it was inconsistent in what color space it started in and if you calibrated with it in place it might be great for a few days and then the calibration would be totally wrong... One of the major weaknesses of the 2009 is the need for the adapter for non-checkerboard 3D and the inability to disable the link light.
post #10912 of 11219
AnthonyB are you sure on the no image on the mirror? I've haven't looked but isn't not seeing an image vampire like?
Image comes up from the projector, then reflects off of the mirror and onto the screen - just seems strange you wouldn't see it on the mirror. Now I have to look at mine tonight! LOL
post #10913 of 11219
It shouldn't be reflecting off dust and grime. That will dull the picture. Just think.. When you shave and the mirror is foggy after a shower, you are seeing a distorted image of yourself.

Why have that effect when you are trying to watch High def TV?
post #10914 of 11219
Oh I agree there, but you said there wouldn't be any image. The dust is usually very easy to see on the mirror - smokey residue would be harder I would imagine, esp. if the coating was uniform.

I don't touch that mirror unless I have to as it is a first surface mirror and easily scratched.... aka ruined.
post #10915 of 11219
Ok, I just looked through my side portal and from there you are right you really shouldn't see an obvious image, I see more of like a "ghostly" image with a moving sceen. And at that you barely see anything as far as a complete picture.

I just can't remember if I saw an image from the front (without the screen on) - it has been so long since I cleaned one like that. Now that I think of it, I may not have even had the tv on and just used my reflection and a flashlight to look for smears after cleaning.

A dirty lens or mirror/s (some models use more than one mirror) can really ruin the picture quality. I did a 62525 before and it was amazing how much nicer the picture was after cleaning!
post #10916 of 11219
The mirror is fragile but as long as you respect "Moh's Hardness Scale" you can clean it with some force.

If the rag falls on the ground get a new one
post #10917 of 11219
I'm new to this hope it goes to where i'm trying to post. I am trying to connect a laptop with a ATI mobility radeon x1300 to my Mitsubishi wd 60c9 tv to watch netflix but i can't seem to use the tv as a monitor any advice would be great.Thank you. Never mind its not hd thought it was.
Edited by Ryan Seaver - 3/14/13 at 7:55pm
post #10918 of 11219
never mind its not a hd graphics card
post #10919 of 11219
While trying to fix my problem as earlier stated. It appears I have dust under the lens. As I try to wipe the lens off with the TV on I can see dust particles inside the lens. Is there a way to remove the plastic piece and safely remove the dust? Thanks for any assistance.
post #10920 of 11219
While trying to fix my problem as earlier stated. It appears I have dust under the lens. As I try to wipe the lens off with the TV on I can see dust particles inside the lens. Is there a way to remove the plastic piece and safely remove the dust? Thanks for any assistance.
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