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2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 366

post #10951 of 11219
Try using Menu-3-5-6-4 and give the latest codes.

It goes by hours on the tv. There will be current hours and the hour the error happened. Post it here and I'll reference my service manual and tell you what they are.
post #10952 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by katsura76 View Post

I have a Denon avr-1912 that I run HDMi thru to mitsubishi 73737 , I always had the occasional green screen issue when watching my Sony BD player but it it has gotten to the point that when it happens not only does the Sony get stuck on green screen my roku, ps3, and apple tv do as well. denon is trying to push it off on a firmware issue with my mitsubishi tv. I just updated firmware on the Denon but I have no clue how to update firmware for Mitsubishi or if I even have the latest firmware on the Tv. One more bit of info, I recently had white dots appearing on my Mitsubshi and got them to come replace the board in it to correct this issue, thats when the green screen stuff began to get worse so perhaps denon is right and it is Tv. Anyone else have a similar issue ever with their Mitsu?

I would think that if it was the Mits you would get a blue screen not green, do you have video processing turned off on your Denon?
post #10953 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by bori View Post

My 65C9 in the last month twice I turned it on and got the blinking red light. Anyone know whats causing this? I had to pull plug for 30 seconds and tv worked again.

I had a similar experience not too long ago. Putting in a new lamp fixed it.
post #10954 of 11219
Four years ago today. . . . bought my 60737 (which is still going strong, tho it did get a new light engine).

Out of (extended Mack) warranty as of tomorrow.
post #10955 of 11219
i own a c960 and recently I had to replace the bulb. After a few months I noticed a mark on the screen and got up to clean it off when I discovered it was on the inside of the screen. Upon further inspection it looks as if it is waving like it is a cobweb but it also looks like the front end and hind end of a silverfish,as if it hit the bulb and exploded,since one night I could have swore I seen a silverfish darting around the inside of the screen and on another I heard a loud pop,like the little bugger got electrocuted.

I read that I would have to hire someone to open the front and give it a cleaning and that should clear that problem up,but then a few nights ago I noticed a two inch faint hue across the bottom of the screen most visible during darkened scenes.

I was wondering what is the cause of the "hue" and how much would it cost to have a pro clean the inside of the television?
post #10956 of 11219
Looking for a little help or advice.

wd-73737 - has behaved amazingly the last almost 3 years. No bulb change needed.....yet.

BUT - lately when switching inputs sometimes the screen just stays blue, switching to cable feed or something else active and back to the new input usually fixes it. But lately it won't fix it unless I unplug and replug in the input.

I have all of the following connected, via HDMI - DirectV cable, 360, and PS3 - component another PS3, into the secondary component Xbox (1) but over via RGA/Yellow, Red, White and a dreamcast on the side input via RGA - mainly the problem with detecting is the Xbox (1) and the

When I switch around the xbox and dreamcast cable they work for one switch and then not again. And they work fine on another TV

It's very strange, I don't want to think updating the bulb would fix this stuff, but that would be nice. Also I haven't updated the firmware, should I bother with that?

And one more time this has happened with the HDMI connections too, last time to a panic last week during the start of Game of Thrones!
post #10957 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotty9678 View Post

Looking for a little help or advice.

wd-73737 - has behaved amazingly the last almost 3 years. No bulb change needed.....yet.

BUT - lately when switching inputs sometimes the screen just stays blue, switching to cable feed or something else active and back to the new input usually fixes it. But lately it won't fix it unless I unplug and replug in the input.

I have all of the following connected, via HDMI - DirectV cable, 360, and PS3 - component another PS3, into the secondary component Xbox (1) but over via RGA/Yellow, Red, White and a dreamcast on the side input via RGA - mainly the problem with detecting is the Xbox (1) and the

When I switch around the xbox and dreamcast cable they work for one switch and then not again. And they work fine on another TV

It's very strange, I don't want to think updating the bulb would fix this stuff, but that would be nice. Also I haven't updated the firmware, should I bother with that?

And one more time this has happened with the HDMI connections too, last time to a panic last week during the start of Game of Thrones!

So far my 65837 has been fine for 4 years with original bulb. I would not think that the bulb would have anything to do with your problem, but maybe the firmware update might help. I seem to remember it did help with some HDMI problems.

Mike T
post #10958 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotty9678 View Post

Looking for a little help or advice.

wd-73737 - has behaved amazingly the last almost 3 years. No bulb change needed.....yet.

BUT - lately when switching inputs sometimes the screen just stays blue, switching to cable feed or something else active and back to the new input usually fixes it. But lately it won't fix it unless I unplug and replug in the input.

I have all of the following connected, via HDMI - DirectV cable, 360, and PS3 - component another PS3, into the secondary component Xbox (1) but over via RGA/Yellow, Red, White and a dreamcast on the side input via RGA - mainly the problem with detecting is the Xbox (1) and the

When I switch around the xbox and dreamcast cable they work for one switch and then not again. And they work fine on another TV

It's very strange, I don't want to think updating the bulb would fix this stuff, but that would be nice. Also I haven't updated the firmware, should I bother with that?

And one more time this has happened with the HDMI connections too, last time to a panic last week during the start of Game of Thrones!

Do you have CEC turned on? If so turn it off. Yes do the firmware update and get an OEM lamp depending on how many hours are on it after 3 years I would assume it's dimmed and ready for replacement.
post #10959 of 11219
Thinking it's time.

Just turned on the TV; stayed on the logo...then turned off, tried to turn back on blinking red light. Waited a minute or two and turned back on and it's back on. Time to visit Mitsubihi's site.

Will also research the firmware upgrade too...why not right?
post #10960 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotty9678 View Post

Thinking it's time.

Just turned on the TV; stayed on the logo...then turned off, tried to turn back on blinking red light. Waited a minute or two and turned back on and it's back on. Time to visit Mitsubihi's site.

Will also research the firmware upgrade too...why not right?

You should have already done the firmware update long ago, the last one included a fix for an issue with the main board where it would get stuck at start up. You should also already have a spare OEM lamp on hand.
post #10961 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyB View Post

I am saying it can be fixed but you're going to have to take a drill and a titanium bit to the three screws that affix the lens together. They are adhered to the plastic, plus they are really really weak screws. So, once you get the screwdriver small enough for them, they'll just strip anyway because the glue holding them down.

I just looked around, $112 is about the average price. Not that bad. Better than a DMD Chip.



FYI- I didn't have a problem removing the screws to disassemble the lens. In fact I tore the whole light engine apart trying to figure out what was causing a glow at the bottom of my WD-65737.
(The tv is not even 3 years old.)
I cleaned everything and put it back together but the problem was still there.

I tore it down again and looking at everything in direct sunlight found there is a haze on the back side of the window for the DMD chip.

After finding that I did a search for DMD chip haze and found this in another thread.
This was identical to my issue.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1279379/the-defective-mitsubishi-dlp-tv-owners-thread/180

Post 198 Pic of the problem.
Post 203 Pic of haze on DMD chip.

So before you go buying a replacement lens make sure that is where the haze and dust is first. If it is in the lens I would at least attempt cleaning it before spending $150 on a replacement.

I thought about trying to dremel the epoxy from around the window so I could remove the window but will probably wait until I have a spare DMD chip in hand.
Edited by Leeisfishing - 7/3/13 at 11:22am
post #10962 of 11219
Has anyone had to replace a dmd chip for a second time with a 2009 model 73837? I had the first chip replaced in Dec 2011. The white dots started appearing again last Friday. I hope this isn't a repair I have to pay for every 18 months.
post #10963 of 11219
I've had my 73737since June of 2009 & it's been great. Had to have the light engine replaced in May of 210 because of white spots. Replaced the lamp in August of 2010 so I'd have a backup. I've decided that I'll go ahead & get another housing& lamp in August but I had a question about where to purchase it. On the Mits site, it costs $99 and is part # 915B403001. On a site called projectorlampsworld they have it for $69 & it is part # 915B403001. What do you guys think? I'd love to save $30 but not if it's going to cost me later because the unit isn't genuine. Thanks!
post #10964 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by innuss View Post

I've had my 73737since June of 2009 & it's been great. Had to have the light engine replaced in May of 210 because of white spots. Replaced the lamp in August of 2010 so I'd have a backup. I've decided that I'll go ahead & get another housing& lamp in August but I had a question about where to purchase it. On the Mits site, it costs $99 and is part # 915B403001. On a site called projectorlampsworld they have it for $69 & it is part # 915B403001. What do you guys think? I'd love to save $30 but not if it's going to cost me later because the unit isn't genuine. Thanks!
I don't know if that lamp is genuine, but when I was shopping for a lamp I found that the Mitsubishi site added too much to the cost. They showed the cost for the lamp at $99, but then wanted to add $10 shipping, $5.00 handling and $7.67 tax for a total of $121.67! I went to Discount Merchant:

http://www.discount-merchant.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=915b403001&Search.x=16&Search.y=13&Click=11342

and got the lamp for $94 + tax with no shipping charge. I see now that they have the lamp for $89.99. My lamp worked just fine.

Good luck.
post #10965 of 11219
Ok, I got one for you guys and girls....

When I switch to 3D, my TV has a nasty flash and the colors get really funky. The The other thing, it doesn't go black to on when I turn 3D on either. It just gives that nasty color and sometimes will go completely out with a red light.

The Diagnostic menu shows 0034 for the code which is a lamp code, but I think it might have something to do with the mainboard or ballast..

Any ideas?
post #10966 of 11219
Hi guys, having issues w/ my WD60c9. Had a bad storm come through and I believe blew all the HDMI ports on my unit. Tested different cables and it recognizes the connection and asks me to name it, but end up with just a blue screen. Both my DirecTV box and my Xbox were connected via HDMI at the time of the storm. I plugged both up w/ component cables and it works for a bit and then the TV powers off after anywhere from 2-15 minutes. However when I have them hooked up via HDMI the TV doesn't power off, but again all I get is blue screen. Why would the TV shut off with the component cables, but not with the HDMI cables? The error code is 12 when I run the test which to my understanding means no problems found. Any ideas?
post #10967 of 11219
Lightning does funny things..

Mainboards are around $250 and a $120 core charge bringing the total to $370.

DMD boards are around $75

Ballasts are $30 on ebay

I'd start with the mainboard..
post #10968 of 11219
After careful review, I have decided that it's either the Power Supply or the DMD board. Given that the set shuts off and a lot of lamp codes and engine power failure codes, I went with the power supply first, which is also a lot cheaper. Since I just replaced the lamp, my guess is that the PS can't keep up with it's new demand..

If this doesn't work, I'll just replace my DMD board and be done with it. A tech told me that the Power Supplies are the first to go out on these DLPs and with such a low price tag ($24.00), I didn't really have a problem picking one up.

Hopefully this will also fix my other problem with the TV shutting off in the first 10 minutes I use it. There was never an error code for that one, so I presume it must have been something to do with the power supply as well..
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyB View Post

Ok, I got one for you guys and girls....

When I switch to 3D, my TV has a nasty flash and the colors get really funky. The The other thing, it doesn't go black to on when I turn 3D on either. It just gives that nasty color and sometimes will go completely out with a red light.

The Diagnostic menu shows 0034 for the code which is a lamp code, but I think it might have something to do with the mainboard or ballast..

Any ideas?
post #10969 of 11219
Try putting in a different lamp
post #10970 of 11219
Why? I mean I guess I could if the new power supply doesn't work to diagnose if it's the DMD board or the ballast.

I've already ordered the part and there is definitely something else wrong with this TV than the lamp.

Since I have no plans to replace the TV, I'd rather just throw money at the problem until it's fixed, and in the event that parts get more scarce, I'll have less of a likelihood of breaking down in years to come. An 82" TV is more than just a TV, it's a home theater smile.gif

It's got 13k hours on it, I am sure that power supply is not in the greatest of health. Living in Tampa where we have power fluctuations because of strong storms, it's less likely to be "healthy".
post #10971 of 11219
Your TV gave you a lamp code, so you ordered a new power supply board? Hmmm...
post #10972 of 11219
It also gave an engine failure code. Matter of fact, code 0017 (Engine failure) was coming more often than 0034 (Power On To Lamp was not responded).

Between the problems I've been having with 3D mode and the TV shutting off, I knew it had to be something else.

Both of these error codes are power related.

From the Service Manual:
0017: Loss of 12V from PWB-POWER to engine
0034: Lamp Enable Signal is Lost

Common sense, Just replace the cheapest parts first.

There is about a 10% chance that all these problems could stem from a bad bulb.

I'll keep you apprised of the situation.
post #10973 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyB View Post

It also gave an engine failure code. Matter of fact, code 0017 (Engine failure) was coming more often than 0034 (Power On To Lamp was not responded).

Between the problems I've been having with 3D mode and the TV shutting off, I knew it had to be something else.

Both of these error codes are power related.

From the Service Manual:
0017: Loss of 12V from PWB-POWER to engine
0034: Lamp Enable Signal is Lost

Common sense, Just replace the cheapest parts first.

There is about a 10% chance that all these problems could stem from a bad bulb.

I'll keep you apprised of the situation.

Do you try another lamp?
post #10974 of 11219
All I have is an old one. If I get the power supply and that doesn't fix the 3D problem, I'll try the other lamp.

Both of them are Osram OEM bulbs.
post #10975 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyB View Post

It also gave an engine failure code. Matter of fact, code 0017 (Engine failure) was coming more often than 0034 (Power On To Lamp was not responded)...Both of these error codes are power related.

From the Service Manual:
0017: Loss of 12V from PWB-POWER to engine
0034: Lamp Enable Signal is Lost
We can't help you if you hold back critical information like this. Also, an existing lamp in the closet has got to be the cheapest part to replace. wink.gif
post #10976 of 11219
Actually, I posted this with the codes two weeks ago, when it started. I gave up looking for help yesterday and started doing it on my own.

Not trying to knock on you for trying to help now, but I already ordered the part because nobody was helping before you. There are so many power related issues, I figured that it's still the way to go. A old bulb isn't going to demand the same amount of power that a new one would. One thing I learned early on in my DLP education; That's how TV's know if it's time to replace a bulb; it's power demand.
post #10977 of 11219
I looked back to around the time i replaced the bulb with about 10k. There were code 66 errors as well.

There are now 4 pages of errors. frown.gif

Auger: Read what you said about 10 pages back about someone with the same error codes as mine. I will try the lamp if there is no improvement with the power supply.

The fact that the TV can't go into 3d mode properly still makes me puzzled of how it could be a lamp though.
post #10978 of 11219
Sound similar?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nole585 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hipnotiq View Post

error code 17 is either a connection to the engine or the engine iteself.

error code 34 means lamp failed after it ignited (as opposed to 66 which is failure to ignite)


if the TV turns on for a minute or so you can check the code log by pressing menu 3564.


UPDATE TO MY PREVIOUS POST


Hipnotiq, thank you for the reply. Due to the new bulb not having addressed the issue, I decided to order the power circuit board?? (sorry, don't know the actual name but it is listed as PWB-POWER in the service manual). The part was about $30 with shipping so I figured what the hell.


The problem persisted even after installing the new "PWB-POWER," so I decided to request an exchange for the bulb to ensure that the first bulb I received wasn't defective. If the problem persisted after this exchange, then I knew it was probably the engine failing, at that point I would have contacted Mitsubishi to seek some relief for the price of the new light engine (around $300).


Luckily, the TV is now working again (after installing the second replacement bulb). It may have been a bad bulb all along and I may have spent $30 for the "PWB-POWER" part unnecessarily; however, I decided that, for the cost, it doesn't hurt to leave the that new part in there as well.
post #10979 of 11219
Yup. That's the post I'm talking about.

However, he never mentioned anything about 3D mode. That's why I'm still leaning towards the PSU.

I know to use 3D mode on my computer, it must ramp up the video card for more wattage, I presume the same with the TV as well.
post #10980 of 11219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Sound similar?

Your very welcome smile.gif
Said the guy "Try a new bulb"
Had same problem.
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