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2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 370

post #11071 of 11218
I've seen the recent convo about buying 'authentic' bulbs as replacements.
I need a spare. Is calling Mitsu directly the best way to get one for my 60C9?
Thanks.
post #11072 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by nikknightt View Post

I've seen the recent convo about buying 'authentic' bulbs as replacements.
I need a spare. Is calling Mitsu directly the best way to get one for my 60C9?
Thanks.

https://mitsuparts.3diamonds.com/ Who calls anymore?
post #11073 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by dimedamage View Post

i dont think its dmd because i know what that looks like.color wheel seems to work fine.only color that doesnt look right is red.rest are fine.i had this tv calibrated back in 2009 so i wonder if maybe this new dmd chip performs different than old one

The chip usually won't effect the color settings, I've replaced more than 5 of them.

I suspected a bad chip, but it also could be an incompatible chip as well. Not sure how you got the chip, but I'd definitely make damn sure the model number ends in 1997. There are other chips for this model that require a new DMD board. If the chip isn't talking to the DMD right, it doesn't know when to time the color wheel and other problems could occur, such as a mosaic pattern on the screen.
post #11074 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by nikknightt View Post

I've seen the recent convo about buying 'authentic' bulbs as replacements.
I need a spare. Is calling Mitsu directly the best way to get one for my 60C9?
Thanks.

You'll *probably* get more life out of a genuine Mitsu, but not necessarily, and maybe not as much more proportionally compared to what you pay more. I got two third party lamps/housing recently for the cost of one Mitsu on Amazon, and because I have Amazon Prime (free shipping), it worked out to less than I would have paid for one genuine Mitsu.

Really comes down to what you're comfortable with. I decided I'd rather have two new lamps (one as my emergency spare) this time. I also have two of these TV's (a 65" and a 60") so that extra new lamp is now the spare for both of them. But for years before that (my first Mitsu DLP was a 2004), I always bought genuine Mitsu.
post #11075 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

https://mitsuparts.3diamonds.com/ Who calls anymore?

Never underestimate 1 on 1 interface.
Better TV subs, Internut promos & even free DMD chips.

Thanks for the link tho.
post #11076 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by georule View Post

You'll *probably* get more life out of a genuine Mitsu, but not necessarily, and maybe not as much more proportionally compared to what you pay more. I got two third party lamps/housing recently for the cost of one Mitsu on Amazon, and because I have Amazon Prime (free shipping), it worked out to less than I would have paid for one genuine Mitsu.
Really comes down to what you're comfortable with. I decided I'd rather have two new lamps (one as my emergency spare) this time. I also have two of these TV's (a 65" and a 60") so that extra new lamp is now the spare for both of them. But for years before that (my first Mitsu DLP was a 2004), I always bought genuine Mitsu.

Thanks Geo. I saw your post about Amazon bulbs. Any initial thoughts on them? I know it was only approx 3-4 weeks ago..
Did you install one of them?
post #11077 of 11218
I was quite frustrated the last time I tried to purchase a lamp directly from Mitsubishi, with all the added charges it came out to $121. Instead I went to discount-merchant.com and got (what I believe is) a factory lamp with housing for just a little over $100 (part + shipping). I installed it in January of this year and it is still going fine. No problems with the purchase or installation at all.

Now (as you've seen) Amazon sells one (actually, it's one of their partner stores - fulfilled by Amazon) for about $38. I'm pretty sure I'll try that next time. I don't know how you can go wrong at that price smile.gif
post #11078 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by nikknightt View Post

Never underestimate 1 on 1 interface.
Better TV subs, Internut promos & even free DMD chips.

Thanks for the link tho.

I'm in my own business and I prefer person to person, a phone call is my least preferred option especially when I'm dealing with another business, there's usually an idiot at the opposite end. Plus I shouldn't have to press 1 for English and go through an automated maze.
post #11079 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkEHansen View Post

I was quite frustrated the last time I tried to purchase a lamp directly from Mitsubishi, with all the added charges it came out to $121. Instead I went to discount-merchant.com and got (what I believe is) a factory lamp with housing for just a little over $100 (part + shipping). I installed it in January of this year and it is still going fine. No problems with the purchase or installation at all.

Now (as you've seen) Amazon sells one (actually, it's one of their partner stores - fulfilled by Amazon) for about $38. I'm pretty sure I'll try that next time. I don't know how you can go wrong at that price smile.gif

I'll tell you how. There are many posts in these forums concerning damaged ballasts, lamps that won't light, and TVs that won't start up. Most problems were traced to discount lamps, and corrected by Mitsubishi sourced lamps. While I love a good deal, "a lamp is a lamp, is a lamp" is not true with DLPs.

Buyer beware, YMMV, etc.
post #11080 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

I'll tell you how. There are many posts in these forums concerning damaged ballasts, lamps that won't light, and TVs that won't start up. Most problems were traced to discount lamps, and corrected by Mitsubishi sourced lamps. While I love a good deal, "a lamp is a lamp, is a lamp" is not true with DLPs.

Buyer beware, YMMV, etc.

What I meant was that for less than 1/2 the price, it may be worth the risk. The lamp I purchased from discount merchants was an OEM lamp (it was not at 1/2 the price though).

By the way, I've read every post in this thread (since the beginning) and I've never heard of anyone claiming that a non-OEM lamp caused damage to their ballasts.
post #11081 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkEHansen View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

I'll tell you how. There are many posts in these forums concerning damaged ballasts, lamps that won't light, and TVs that won't start up. Most problems were traced to discount lamps, and corrected by Mitsubishi sourced lamps. While I love a good deal, "a lamp is a lamp, is a lamp" is not true with DLPs.

Buyer beware, YMMV, etc.

What I meant was that for less than 1/2 the price, it may be worth the risk. The lamp I purchased from discount merchants was an OEM lamp (it was not at 1/2 the price though).

By the way, I've read every post in this thread (since the beginning) and I've never heard of anyone claiming that a non-OEM lamp caused damage to their ballasts.

I stated "these forums" not necessarily "this" forum. There are other Mits related threads in AVS. I used to keep track so I could quote those other posts but I tired of it quickly after AVS changed the forum format.

I don't think $60 savings spread out over three years is worth the hassle caused by lamps that cause problems. Some people take weeks before figuring out their brand new lamp is the culprit, all that time with no TV. Some even replace parts in a shotgun approach to the problem, which costs more than any "savings". The frustration alone is too much in my book.

I forgot to mention voiding your warranty. Mits even warns about aftermarket lamps damaging the TV in their Owners Manuals.

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/asset/file/owners_guide/C9-737-837_OG.pdf

(red highlight by me)
Quote:
Lamp-Substitution Alert

MDEA recommends that you use only genuine Replacement Lamp Assemblies purchased directly from Mitsubishi or a
Mitsubishi Authorized Dealer or Mitsubishi Authorized Service Center. MDEA advises that replacement lamps obtained
separately from the Lamp Cartridge and/or Lamp Assemblies obtained from unauthorized sellers may be incorrect for
your television, may not fit or perform properly and may even damage your television. MDEA can not be responsible
for the performance, reliability or safety of any replacement lamps that are obtained from unauthorized sources
.

Here's another good read: http://www.fixyourdlp.com/2008/11/21/beware-of-third-party-generic-dlp-tv-lamps-counterfeit-copy-lamps/
Quote:
As this is the case, these companies have spent countless hours perfecting their innovations to work together seamlessly. These companies have spent millions upon millions of dollars on Research and Development (R&D) to not only creat and perfect their technologies, but to mesh all the this technology together…

Often times third-party products (including lamps) can VOID your manufacturer’s warranty and lead to premature failure of other components inside your TV set! Your DLP is “driven” or powered on by a “lamp driver” or a “ballast”. This ballast has been engineered as the bridge between the TV manufacturer (Samsung for example) and the lamp manufacturer (Philips for example). To ensure proper ignition, continuous voltage, and a healthy long life, the ballast and lamp are matched together.

With a generic or third-party lamp, you are committing yourself to buying an inferior product! Spending $5, $10, or $15 extra on an original part versus a generic/third-party should be a no-brainer when you’ve got a lot more to lose than a few bucks! More on this to come, this has already become longer than it should be.

http://www.fixyourdlp.com/2011/12/02/7-tips-for-spotting-counterfeits/

It's your money and your TV, you do what you want. I'm just trying to help.
Edited by Augerhandle - 11/8/13 at 5:40pm
post #11082 of 11218
my 65c9 is having problem starting up. it powers on, i can hear sound but no picture. it will stay this was for about 2 minutes then shut off with error code 66. i've already tried the OEM spare lamp i bought from Mits when i bought the TV, replaced the ballast. it will turn on eventually after about 4-5 attempts. i can hear the ballast trying to ignite the lamp but it "sounds" weak, for example my 65831 sounds like an old stick welder when it fires up the lamp. i deal with computers a lot and the first thing i do with hardware related problems is reset the bios or update it if a newer one is available, in this case the firmware. this is where it gets interesting, i accidentally downloaded the firmware for the wd-65837 and flashed the 65C9 with it.

the good news: the TV still works and i even got the software features for the 65837

the bad: it didn't fix the starting issue i'm having

anyone have any ideas?

pics of the firmware:

http://imgur.com/a/mllhF#0

the new features work as far as i can tell except the blue glow and dark detailer as they physically don't exist on the set. edit: i just saw it added hdmi 4 and netcommand and other stuff on my input list, those don't physically exist either.
Edited by MagicPotatoes - 11/11/13 at 7:11pm
post #11083 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by MagicPotatoes View Post

my 65c9 is having problem starting up. it powers on, i can hear sound but no picture. it will stay this was for about 2 minutes then shut off with error code 66. i've already tried the OEM spare lamp i bought from Mits when i bought the TV, replaced the ballast. it will turn on eventually after about 4-5 attempts. i can hear the ballast trying to ignite the lamp but it "sounds" weak, for example my 65831 sounds like an old stick welder when it fires up the lamp. i deal with computers a lot and the first thing i do with hardware related problems is reset the bios or update it if a newer one is available, in this case the firmware. this is where it gets interesting, i accidentally downloaded the firmware for the wd-65837 and flashed the 65C9 with it.

the good news: the TV still works and i even got the software features for the 65837

the bad: it didn't fix the starting issue i'm having

anyone have any ideas?

pics of the firmware:

http://imgur.com/a/mllhF#0

the new features work as far as i can tell except the blue glow and dark detailer as they physically don't exist on the set. edit: i just saw it added hdmi 4 and netcommand and other stuff on my input list, those don't physically exist either.

Have you tried flashing it with the correct firmware?
post #11084 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

Have you tried flashing it with the correct firmware?

yep, just now. didn't fix it.
post #11085 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by MagicPotatoes View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

Have you tried flashing it with the correct firmware?

yep, just now. didn't fix it.
From your description, it appears this all began with a non-Mitsubishi sourced lamp?
Are you sure you replaced the ballast with the correct part from Mitsubishi? Have you double checked wiring and connections?
See this link for error code meanings
http://stereoandvideorepairco.com/Troubleshooting/MitsubishiShutdownTroubleshooting.html
post #11086 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

From your description, it appears this all began with a non-Mitsubishi sourced lamp?
Are you sure you replaced the ballast with the correct part from Mitsubishi? Have you double checked wiring and connections?
See this link for error code meanings
http://stereoandvideorepairco.com/Troubleshooting/MitsubishiShutdownTroubleshooting.html

it began out of the blue, with the original lamp that came with the TV that has 5600+ hours on it. spare lamp was from mitsu parts online, ballast was from shopjimmy and identical to the original down to the serial #, only thing different is date of manufacture. we tried my lamps (old and new) and ballasts (also both old and new) on my friend's 65c9 and they work no matter the ballast+lamp combination so i think it has to be one of my boards. checked and double checked connections, cleaned connection contacts and re-plugged everything and still no go. i did discover a little trick, sort of a workaround, instead of repeatedly trying to power the TV right back on after it shuts off with the error code, i leave it alone for 5 minutes and then power it on and it works that way, i guess the capacitors on one of the boards aren't holding enough charge to fire up the lamp but once the TV is on, it will work flawlessly for a days on end.
post #11087 of 11218
Try this from repost.
Worked for me, got tired of all the tricks, 5 min, leave it on for a monyh, ect... LOL.smile.gif

I have the fix for this... Or what fixed my 82"..

I live in Florida, my house is 73-76 and when I'm away 82. As far as the outdoor temperature, it's about the temperature of what you'd imagine Hell would be..

I thought it was a fan, I thought it was a switch, I thought it was a thermal thing.......

Take out the power supply/mainboard chassis, take every cable off it.. brush the connections down with a CLEAN toothbrush, put them back in, and never have to deal it again. If you want, you can also refresh the connection at the lamp door switch but never had luck doing that.

Honestly, this is such an easy fix, and if you pay someone $60-$100 to do it, you have too much money and should probably just send it to me for posting the fix smile.gif


If you have worries about sticking wires where they aren't supposed to go when you put it back together, take pictures before you remove them. However, there are different types of connectors for each wire that connects to the mainboard and PSU so you can't really go wrong.

The TV has 9 screws, the chassis has 4, you pull it out and put it back together. Took me less than 15 minutes to replace a power supply, which also includes unscrewing that.

Seriously, it's a less than 10 minute job that can even be done behind the TV.

I know it fixed mine; so you can hunt around like I did for months, or you can just do this. Worse case is, it doesn't work and you can go back to your research.

There are two components inside the TV. The light engine and the chassis. If you want, I'll send you the service manual. Not like you need it but it might make you feel more comfortable..

It's not a loose connection, it's oxidation on the connections. Mits didn't use gold or another non-oxidizing metal. Over time, from the expansion and contraction of the TV's internal parts and the humidity in the air forms a microscopic barrier of oxidation. And while the TV is heating up and then turns off with the yellow light, is the point where those two connections are not joined for a brief microsecond and fools the computer that it had an open door. It happens so fast that the computer doesn't have time to process that it was actually reconnected, needing the reset.

If I had someone telling me this could have been fixed by just doing this, I'd already have had it done. It costs no money and it's a fix that lasts.


The risk? The only risk is you touch a capacitor's contacts which is almost impossible to do, you aren't handling that part.
post #11088 of 11218
Well its been a fun couple days for technology in my house. First the HTPC has issues that end up with me buying a new motherboard and CPU there's $200 down the drain right before Christmas... And now my stupid usb tv-tuner wont work... And today I turn on the TV to get ready for setting up shark codecs and when I come out of the bathroom the wife is staring at the TV... I look and the screen is black and the LED is red... She said it made a loud bang! Yay new bulb for me another $132 down the tubes.

I ended up buying direct from Mitsubishi. The reviews for the cheap bulbs on amazon are mostly negative. I already got my TV (WD 73837) for a steal (yay craigslist and rich people getting foreclosed! actually got two for $600 each) so I figure I'm due.

Thanks to the person who posted the service manual, I'll open her up and give her a good cleaning while waiting for the new bulb to come.
post #11089 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by PKVillager View Post

Well its been a fun couple days for technology in my house. First the HTPC has issues that end up with me buying a new motherboard and CPU there's $200 down the drain right before Christmas... And now my stupid usb tv-tuner wont work... And today I turn on the TV to get ready for setting up shark codecs and when I come out of the bathroom the wife is staring at the TV... I look and the screen is black and the LED is red... She said it made a loud bang! Yay new bulb for me another $132 down the tubes.

I ended up buying direct from Mitsubishi. The reviews for the cheap bulbs on amazon are mostly negative. I already got my TV (WD 73837) for a steal (yay craigslist and rich people getting foreclosed! actually got two for $600 each) so I figure I'm due.

Thanks to the person who posted the service manual, I'll open her up and give her a good cleaning while waiting for the new bulb to come.

Same here, a wireless router, wired router, graphics card and 2 DLP lamps. I still have 2 OEM lamps still going just dim. Tried a cheap one, colors looked off lasted less than a week. I'm now trying a cheap one from Amazon, colors look great and actually had okay reviews but not many, we'll see. You should have a spare lamp always on hand and I would never root for someone losing their home to foreclosure.
post #11090 of 11218
Checking in with 16,399 hours on my C9 without a glitch. Unit was purchased in July of 2010. On my 3rd bulb which is reaching the end of its life .......
post #11091 of 11218
on my 737, I just recently saw a small white dot a week ago and now there are 2 small white dots

is this the beginning of the end? I am curious to hear about people's experience with this

I have had this TV for about 3 years
post #11092 of 11218
Time for a DLP chip.
post #11093 of 11218
Does anyone have the Pronto Hex codes for this TV, I've been looking for months and can't seem to find them..

If you have the codes I don't want to install the Pronto software on my PC, I need it for Eventghost..

What I need:

HDMI 1 through 4 hex codes.
post #11094 of 11218
Is there any inexpensive 3da-1`s available.... There is no way i am giving $400-500 for one.. I would even settle for used one.. lol.... These things are like gold ... from $99 original cost to infinity.. I saw a few on the web priced at $899.... Im like WTF... Would like to use my 3d blueray but guess ill have to spring for a DMP-BDT500
post #11095 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedklz View Post

Is there any inexpensive 3da-1`s available.... There is no way i am giving $400-500 for one.. I would even settle for used one.. lol.... These things are like gold ... from $99 original cost to infinity.. I saw a few on the web priced at $899.... Im like WTF... Would like to use my 3d blueray but guess ill have to spring for a DMP-BDT500

Check your PM. I am trying to get rid of mine.
post #11096 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by detroit1 View Post

on my 737, I just recently saw a small white dot a week ago and now there are 2 small white dots
is this the beginning of the end? I am curious to hear about people's experience with this
I have had this TV for about 3 years

It took about a week after I saw the first white dot for the entire screen to be filled with them..
PM me if you want more info on how I handled the situation.
post #11097 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by nikknightt View Post

Thanks Geo. I saw your post about Amazon bulbs. Any initial thoughts on them? I know it was only approx 3-4 weeks ago..
Did you install one of them?

So far so good. Good brightness. We'll see on life.

I don't usually run my lamps until they die/explode, so the Mits lamp suiciding after only a few thousand hours was the first time in 9 years of Mits DLPs owning for me.

I really like to have a semi-capable spare on hand, particularly since we have two of these TVs in the house. That was definitely an influence for me this time --I could get two new third-party lamps (with housings) for the price of one Genuine Mits and thus have a full-brightness spare on hand. My usual practice has been to retire the "old" one to a spare when it starts to noticeably dim, but the death of the last one foiled that this time.

But the caveat emptor upstream on third-party lamps is well-taken as well.
Edited by georule - 12/4/13 at 9:32pm
post #11098 of 11218
Quote:
Originally Posted by georule View Post

So far so good. Good brightness. We'll see on life.
I don't usually run my lamps until they die/explode, so the Mits lamp suiciding after only a few thousand hours was the first time in 9 years of Mits DLPs owning for me.
I really like to have a semi-capable spare on hand, particularly since we have two of these TVs in the house. That was definitely an influence for me this time --I could get two new third-party lamps (with housings) for the price of one Genuine Mits and thus have a full-brightness spare on hand. My usual practice has been to retire the "old" one to a spare when it starts to noticeably dim, but the death of the last one foiled that this time.
But the caveat emptor upstream on third-party lamps is well-taken as well.

Amazon has 3rd party vendors supply the bulbs - Do you remember the name of the company who supplied it.?
TIA
post #11099 of 11218
When runing 3D does it matter which HDMI port I use? Just wondering cause I can only get about 6 Feet away before I loose sync using Xpand 102-XP.
post #11100 of 11218
Mitsubishi covered the white dot repair twice on my 73837.
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