Guys, I'm always hearing about replacements, are those tvs not reliable at all ?
I'm contemplating the purchase of one of those badboys, but the deal is, I don't live in the US, I haven't seen a RPTV before in real life, if it broke there's nothing I can do beside throwing it in the garbage.
I want a big screen TV, and the biggest plasma I might be able to afford is the Samsung 63".. So those DLP's are really a bargain.
I take it it isn't safe to buy one without a warranty, the PQ of the TV i'm not really worried about as a lot of people seem to like the picture, But they aren't that reliable and I don't think they would live that long without some kind of failure. So in general it seems like a dumb idea to begin with (being that I'm out of the US and all that)
If you guys were in my shoes, what would you do ? I would appreciate your help and input.
I'd be more worried about shipping damage than anything, whatever you got. And I think I'd rather have a $1,500 TV I can't get serviced than a $3k TV I can't get serviced, when it comes to risk, y'know? The guy upstream replacing a 62725 on warranty. . . well, that's a nearly 5 yr old TV (and first gen Mits DLP at that). He's getting a heckuva deal to get a new 837 for that.
To me there are three main elements of risk:
1) Got a bad one that left the factory bad and it is noticeably bad pretty much immediately. Second most common problem.
2). Shipping damage between the factory, retailer, and finally you that is noticeable immediately. From what I read on these forums, this is the the most common problem.
3). Long term breakdown. Distant third, and obviously an increasingly amount of value was received between original receipt and lamented demise.
So, to me, #3 is the least worrisome of those risks for you. If I can figure out how to manage #1 and #2 in your situation, I wouldn't be too worried about #3 at these prices. But maybe that's just me. I don't know enough about your situation to know how effectively you can manage #1 and #2. What are the steps for the TV getting from a retailer to your out of the country final destination for it?
You guys will think I'm crazy, but I'm considering buying one of the 65 or 73-inch models to use as my personal gaming monitor in my bedroom.
I've seen the best picture quality the industry has to offer (from the XBR8, A950 and KUROs) but they lack the sheer size of big screen projection models, and I want to be fully immersed by the biggest screen possible. I'm willing to sacrifice a little image quality for that size. And at these prices, it's an affordable luxury that can literally make a BIG impact on my gaming experience. I can't wait to play NHL09 on a huge screen. Just the thought of it has me excited.
You must have a bigger bedroom than most people! Or a tiny bed! The 73" is 5' 5" wide and 20" deep! How far would you be sitting from the front of the screen?
If you're gonna do that, unless your bedroom is abnormally large, I'd really lean towards the 65". It's 4" less deep and 7" less wide, with 26% more pixel density. And you don't have to lie --we know it's really to watch your monkey-pr0n collection in lifesize glory!
Well for those of you that now finally have the 737 I have had mine now for alittle over a month now, and here are my settings (60737) which I cant seem to figure out why, and its only on cable tv, HD and standard that I am getting jumping colors and edges that are not sharp but more or less jagged and edgy looking. I am going to blame it on the 480p so call HD channels through Time Warner make this tv look OKAY on hd channels but boy does this thing make blue-rays look amazing! Some blue-rays are grainer than others and I have noticed that on this big tv. So you will notice imperfections on blue-rays just because of the size of the tv! Im playing my blue's through my PS3 and by the way PS3 games look awesome! Been playing COD4 online and off alot latley since buying the PS3 and I am very happy with being able to see EVERYTHING on the screen durning game play. I have tried many different settings, deepfield on off, color temp, adv mode, bright brilliant natural and this is what I have come up with so far for my liking. But wouldnt mind to get rid of some of the jumping of certain colors, bright reds, blues and green. All color settings are set to standard 31 in the perfect picture, but here is my main menu settings.
Picture Mode: Brilliant
Tint: 31 stock
Sharp: 0, have been told to just turn it down to 0
Color Temp: High
Video Noice: High <- very noticable when on off or low
Sharp Edge: On
Other than that the stock settings have been used and im very happy with the blue-ray setting and PS3 settings, but cable, man I wish they will start broadcasting in atleast more 1080i and sometime soon 1080p because the 480p just looks like junk! Alot of HD channels I have been noticing on TWC are not even 720p!!! My room setting is I have a huge slidding glass door in my living room with light shinning in when I want it to, so brightness with this tv is not a factor at all! It will be a factor if you choice lower bulb mode like normal, or adv, bight brilliant has been my favorite and Bright is just to much. Anyone have any idea's as far as the color jumping and the edge deal with cable???
I have a 736, so my settings aren't necessarily going to directly correspond to the newer sets. I tend to prefer less "enhanced" modes, like "natural", no NR, no edge enhancement, etc. Everyone has their own preferences. But there is one thing I'll caution you on:
Originally Posted by Newmason
Sharp: 0, have been told to just turn it down to 0
A low sharpness setting is a general recommendation for most displays, because for most displays settings above 0 represent a form of edge enhancement which can cause ringing. But at least for last years Mits, 0 is not "unaltered" like it is with most brands... 31 is. Going below 31 can cause softness and "inverse ringing".
Perhaps they've changed it this year, but I would play with it with some test material before accepting that suggestion as gospel. There is plenty of test material out there to help you find the appropriate sharpness setting.
I know its a little late to be asking this seeing I just ordered my 73737 online yesterday but what is the depth of the 73737. I keep hearing people say its 20 or 19.9 in on mitsubishis website there pdf and spec sheet on it says its 17.8? whos right? Sorry it is 19.9 I was looking at pdf for matching base depth. Doh!
Well I figured out the cause of the jumping colors and why it was only being caused while watch cable! I had TWC come out and replace the box a few weeks ago, and I forgot to set the box to switch over to what ever the channel was broadcasting in, so of course all the HD channels were being broadcasted in 480p instead of either 720p or 1080i causing the screen to want to twitch. No more twitching of colors or other objects after allowing the box to switch between resolution outputs now!!!! THUMBS up to Mitsubishi still great purchase, thumbs down to me the bone head I still stand behind my settings though as stated above!
I tried the Natural/low temp and man does it seem dark and gray, what are you adjusting to compensate for the grayness? When I turn that setting on it looks as if someone is putting a light gray filter over your eyes! I def cant use that setting at all, plus if the bulb goes out, which I kind of hope it does within the year it will still be free
just tried the usa mitsubishi website and they do not have any 837 models listed as being available. i am interested in the differences between the two and if anyone has actually seen them together and if so is there any difference in picture quality. if so is it worth the additional $$$?
How do you go about disabling the keystone feature.... 60737 doesnt have it I know that. It does have a feature that will allow you to stretch zoom standard narrow so on if this is what you all are talking about
I just got the 65837 with a manufacture date of 5/12/09....It was a replacement for the 65732. It was a pain in the butt, however I just got it today. I went through 2 optical engines and 3 lamps and had the thermal sensor replaced 4 times on the 65732. I had a 5 year warranty with Fry's Electronics. I called and spoke to Mitsubishi and then Fry's and between the 2 of them, I got the 65837.
The 65837 has: Glossy outside, blue light underneath screen, dark detailer, perfect tint, net command, usb, 4 HDMI's etc...
I have been trying to get my PS3 up and running for 2 hours. The screen keeps switching from blue to black...with no PS3 picture.
I have read the manual and messed with the remote ....but it's just brutal. It is so bad it's hard to explain. It's not finding the PS3.
Out of Box (un-calibrated):The picture seems to be what the 65732 was. I do NOT see a difference with "Smooth 120" and I think it's probably a marketing trick more than anything. This is just my impression and was hoping that the new 65837 would be so much better than the 65732. I honestly DON'T see a difference in HDTV channels....like I said...I am yet to get the PS3 / BLU RAY to work...so I can't compare that picture.
I am thankful to have a new TV after all the hassle with Fry's and Mitsubishi.
I was so excited to get this thing....but in all honesty...it's NOT that great.
If you've had rear projection DLP's from Mitsubishi in the past.....then you know what you're getting. Some love them, some not so much.
I think for the screen size to price ratio, they're pretty good.
Samsung is not making them anymore and Mitsubishi rep told me this is the last year for DLP for them too. (???)
...Now back to this horrible menu and remote and trying to get the PS3 set up....this "auto detection" is not so "automatic"
I think if it's your first DLP. You will love it. If you are getting a replacement from a past Mits DLP....it's not that different
Got mine in today too - around 5 pm. Out of the box, the TV was in Brilliant mode with contrast all the way up. Changed it to Natural and lowered the contrast a little, but haven't messed with it to much as of now.
The remote is total crap. No backlighting and the tiny buttons around the "enter" for navigation key are barely noticeable. Also, in a cost saving move for Mits, they no longer include Net Command IR emitters to control other devices. No big deal for me since I have a Pronto, but why have a TV with Net Command if you have to order the parts from Mits.
Lots of settings within the ISF cal area such as H and V positions, Deepfield Imiager, Super Resolution (no idea what that is), as well as other typical color and gamma corrections. (see pic 5).
Picture looks very good with HD via DirecTV on HDMI. Haven't played the Wii yet nor watched a DVD (no blu-ray player yet).
My biggest issue thus far is that the picture bows in the upper left corner. Pic 3 shows it well. I didn't see any tilt corrections available so I guess I'll have to poke around in the 2008 model thread to see if there are corrections that I can attempt.
** Pics taken with 2MP camera phone. Actual picture looks much better. The menu seen in pic 5 is not blurry at all.
Oooh, same crappy remote with the 837? Too bad, that remote is truly craptastic. Good luck! My prior Mits was 1st gen, so I definitely see a BIG difference. I haven't tried to hook up a gaming console, so dunno what's going on there. No problem here with antenna (coax), Comcast HD DVR cable box (hdmi), and Sony BDP-S300 Blu-ray player (hdmi). Was totally painless.
I think the new "jade menus" are nice to look at (very Samsung ish)...but between them and the HORRIBLE remote....it's kind of an adventure....I can't imagine how it's going to be at night. I've never really thought much about remotes in the past and my 65732 remote was nothing amazing....but it was red-back lit and had each individual function buttons. Nice TV but this remote is seriously getting comical now. I have small fingers too.
HDMI problems still....
I have tried all 4 HDMI's for my PS3 and the TV is cycling through a blue and black screen and will not stay put on the PS3????
I am starting to get a bit annoyed. I'm not liking this "auto detection"
HDMI works fine with my Cable box and worked fine with my 65732...so it's not my PS3.
You can turn off the "blue" accent light under the screen (in case anyone was wondering)
Overall, seems to be a nice picture with my HD channels.
My 65732 had "Sharp Edge" and you could see a huge difference...say on ESPN scores icons....it would make the white lines POP OUT more. Really bold!
(I typically would not use it...but it was nice...sometimes.)
However, I am going through the settings on my 65837 and there is NO difference at all....toggling on/off "Sharp Edge"...I mean none.
Can someone check their 60737 or 65737 or 65837 and see if your "Sharp Edge" works.
Well once i sell my tv. not sure when or how much begging it'll take to be rid of it. my place is just a hair over 900 sq ft. so i can't stick it in another room. Not until a few days on reading some more from this forum did i find out that my tv is a 1st gen dlp of Mitsu. Interesting. Here's a pic of my tv from yesterday without the flash, just the pic itself with no post processing. Still ticking but i know the new 2009's will be like night and day compared to mine. five years difference is quite a bit for things to change. i used the pick your price on 6ave today and i'll see what i get back. if they take my price.
Ah yes, Worminfested --that's an old friend right there. Our (Dec 2004) 62725 is still going strong in the upstairs living room while the new 60737 is in my office/family room downstairs. As a practical matter, the 2004 is my wife's TV and the 2009 is my TV. She's getting increasingly jealous when she comes downstairs and sees the pic on the 737. . .