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2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 119

post #3541 of 10987
11/11/09 at 4:26pm
When i try a BD it shows beautifully but at times you can still see a grainyness to the tv it seems to come and go at times. That is through the HDMI port.
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post #3542 of 10987
11/11/09 at 4:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by georule View Post

Damn, that's a heckuva deal right there. Congratulations, tho no doubt you earned it in the pain you underwent before it got to that point. We still have a 62725 operating in this house (in addition to our new 60737), and I wholeheartedly endorse your experience. The 2009s kick butt on 1st gen Mits DLP *by a mile*.

Now my advice would be to go get a 3rd party warranty from Mack or dtvexpress to protect this one for 4 or 5 years too. You obviously recognize the value of that right now!

I agree. I am blown away...the difference is jaw dropping. Even my wife commented that it was a much, much better picture...and that's as good as an endorsement one can get.

I plan on getting an extended warranty, but since 3rd parties base the costs on the purchase price, I don't think I can go that route (paid $350 for processing/shipping). I asked Mits customer relations, and they offer 2, 3 and 4 year extended warranty coverage. They said I had up to 18 months to purchase. When I do, I'll pass the info along.
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post #3543 of 10987
11/11/09 at 7:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by QGGeneric View Post

I agree. I am blown away...the difference is jaw dropping. Even my wife commented that it was a much, much better picture...and that's as good as an endorsement one can get.

I plan on getting an extended warranty, but since 3rd parties base the costs on the purchase price, I don't think I can go that route (paid $350 for processing/shipping). I asked Mits customer relations, and they offer 2, 3 and 4 year extended warranty coverage. They said I had up to 18 months to purchase. When I do, I'll pass the info along.


If you give me your information I can find out how much you can pick up a Mack warranty for. Its really not as expensive as you think. And you have a few months to decide if you want to purchase it.PM me if your interested and I can set you up with one of our dealers.

Dave
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post #3544 of 10987
11/11/09 at 7:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mackcamera View Post

If you give me your information I can find out how much you can pick up a Mack warranty for. Its really not as expensive as you think. And you have a few months to decide if you want to purchase it.PM me if your interested and I can set you up with one of our dealers.

Dave

The fair thing to do would be to offer him the warranty based on current price of the unit at, say, Amazon, rather than MSRP. His problem is as a warranty replacement he doesn't have the typical copy of a receipt for what he paid.
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post #3545 of 10987
11/11/09 at 9:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by georule View Post

The fair thing to do would be to offer him the warranty based on current price of the unit at, say, Amazon, rather than MSRP. His problem is as a warranty replacement he doesn't have the typical copy of a receipt for what he paid.

HE should have something from Mitsubishi. I can look into this tomorrow.
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post #3546 of 10987
11/12/09 at 4:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by aznxtc View Post

I went thru three exchanges of the 60737 because of this problem...
All 3 sets had the same issues where you could see images in back of the
letterbox..

I read some threads back where some guys didn't have this issue..
So do i keep on exchanging until i find one without this problem?...or is this
normal on most of these sets and im stuck with this annoyance.

I don't see this issue with my 65C9
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post #3547 of 10987
11/12/09 at 4:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by georule View Post

The fair thing to do would be to offer him the warranty based on current price of the unit at, say, Amazon, rather than MSRP. His problem is as a warranty replacement he doesn't have the typical copy of a receipt for what he paid.

Yup. I don't have a purchase receipt for the new replacement TV. I only have a delivery receipt, plus all the paperwork I faxed in to Mits to verify my purchase and previous service history of my old WD62525.
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post #3548 of 10987
11/12/09 at 8:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by QGGeneric View Post

Yup. I don't have a purchase receipt for the new replacement TV. I only have a delivery receipt, plus all the paperwork I faxed in to Mits to verify my purchase and previous service history of my old WD62525.


If you can get me the paperwork then I should be able to have the value assigned for a warranty. Can you scan me the information and email me. Dave@mackcam.com
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post #3549 of 10987
11/12/09 at 9:32am
I have a 73C9. Love this thing.

I have a question. The geometry looks near perfect, so I won't be messing with that. But I did adjust the horizontal/vertical position a little. Does that effect the pixel mapping?

Matt

Looks like I found an answer. It ships with geometry correction already on. So if you want 1:1 mapping, auto correction must be disabled.
I not going to worry about it, it looks great!
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post #3550 of 10987
11/12/09 at 10:58am
It's still an interesting question I'd like to know the answer to, if anyone does. I suspect that h/v just shifts the image rather than compress it.
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post #3551 of 10987
11/12/09 at 2:11pm
I calibrated a 65837 today. It definitely benefited from my service.
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post #3552 of 10987
11/12/09 at 2:14pm
For what is worth, aside from 3D gaming which is why I got this. I tried some HD movies and it needs a LOT of tweaking to compete with my Infocus 7210. Even at 12' wide I so much love the image of my Infocus over this one.
Granted, my infocus has been tweaked a lot compared to the Mitsu.
Then again, I only use it for gaming and it rocks at that. :-)
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post #3553 of 10987
11/12/09 at 3:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bacardi 151 View Post

Just got myself a 73C9, less than double-digit hours on it. Look forward to improving the picture and possibly the sound.

For people not using the Mitsu stands, what kind of TV stands are you using? I can't find any wide enough for under $400...Really hoping to find a stand in the $150 range


Techcraft makes a great stand the XII60. My 72 incher looks good on it, and only sticks out a couple of inches on each side. The glass shelves are far enough apart to allow my huge center speaker to fit in nicely, as well as the rest of my equipment. I found a great price at pcnation.com, about half of what you indicate but check it out yourself. You can get the details at techcraft.net site.
Cheers
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post #3554 of 10987
11/12/09 at 6:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

I calibrated a 65837 today. It definitely benefited from my service.

Since you have a professional's eye, and no doubt did extensive testing of the results. . . how did you find the performance of the dynamic iris? Also, did you notice bleeding in letterboxed material?
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post #3555 of 10987
11/13/09 at 4:28am
Just to let everyone know, Electronics Expo has put the 73C9 on sale again. Down to
$1,453. Plus, you can get another $70 off by searching with Bing. Check it out here
http://www.bing.com/shopping/pages/howtouse.aspx

Never bought anything through Bing before. So, can't verify....

PLUS, another $50 off using coupon code TECHDEALDIGR

This should be about $1560 delivered, after all discounts and cash back.....
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post #3556 of 10987
11/13/09 at 6:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mackcamera View Post

If you can get me the paperwork then I should be able to have the value assigned for a warranty. Can you scan me the information and email me. Dave@mackcam.com

The delivery receipt only lists the manufacturer and model, no purchase price. My only other receipt is for the original purchase of the WD62525 ($4000) which is now sitting on the big scrap pile in the sky. I don't have a scanner, but can get a friend to scan for me...if these documents are of any use...
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post #3557 of 10987
11/13/09 at 7:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by aclinml View Post

Just to let everyone know, Electronics Expo has put the 73C9 on sale again. Down to
$1,453. Plus, you can get another $70 off by searching with Bing. Check it out here
http://www.bing.com/shopping/pages/howtouse.aspx

Never bought anything through Bing before. So, can't verify....

PLUS, another $50 off using coupon code TECHDEALDIGR

This should be about $1560 delivered, after all discounts and cash back.....

I use Bing Cash Back all the time. I got 20% off my WD65737 or around $300. You have to wait 60 days to get your Bing Cash Back because they want to make sure you don't return the item. I purchased my TV in August and they had a "Back to School" double cash back special going at Bing from select stores. I was eligible to get my cash back in October and I have received it. I ordered my TV from HiDefLifestyle.com and the service was unbelievable. I ordered on a Saturday night and didn't expect anything to happen until Monday except get an automated order confirmation - which was what happened. Monday though I got a call from the shipper to schedule the delivery for Wednesday. I thought they were talking about following week, but they were talking about that Wednesday.
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post #3558 of 10987
11/13/09 at 8:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luis Gabriel Gerena View Post

For what is worth, aside from 3D gaming which is why I got this. I tried some HD movies and it needs a LOT of tweaking to compete with my Infocus 7210. Even at 12' wide I so much love the image of my Infocus over this one.
Granted, my infocus has been tweaked a lot compared to the Mitsu.
Then again, I only use it for gaming and it rocks at that. :-)

So you're happy with it as a gamer now even with the geometry and overscan? Did you find something to improve that, or just decided to live with it?
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post #3559 of 10987
11/13/09 at 11:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsa44 View Post

Techcraft makes a great stand the XII60. My 72 incher looks good on it, and only sticks out a couple of inches on each side. The glass shelves are far enough apart to allow my huge center speaker to fit in nicely, as well as the rest of my equipment. I found a great price at pcnation.com, about half of what you indicate but check it out yourself. You can get the details at techcraft.net site.
Cheers

Thanks. It's about $210 shipped. Top contender...My wife still wants something wider in which the tv wouldn't over-hang. If nothing else comes along, this may be it.
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post #3560 of 10987
11/13/09 at 2:22pm
I have combed the threads and posts high and low and can't find any info on this issue.

I have a WD-73737. There are 3 sources of video going to the TV. HDMI-1 is from the Scientific Atlanta cable box, HDMI-3 is from the LG Blu Ray player, and Input-1 is component from the Yamaha receiver (doesn't do HDMI).

My issue is that once I turn the whole setup on, in about 5-10 minutes of watching TV or a Blu Ray on the HDMI inputs the TV will "discover" Input-1, ask me to name it, then switch to it. I'm baffled on how to alter this behavior. I don't want the TV second guessing my input choices.

Anyone else see this and how did you solve?

TIA!
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post #3561 of 10987
11/13/09 at 2:26pm
This doesn't answer your question, but why do you have your receiver connected the TV?
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post #3562 of 10987
11/13/09 at 3:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bacardi 151 View Post

Thanks. It's about $210 shipped. Top contender...My wife still wants something wider in which the tv wouldn't over-hang. If nothing else comes along, this may be it.

The overhang is hardly noticeable. If I can figure out how to upload a pic here, I will take one and load it...cross your fingers. I am very happy with the stand for what I consider a bargain price and top quality.
DSA
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post #3563 of 10987
11/13/09 at 3:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by winnebago View Post

I have combed the threads and posts high and low and can't find any info on this issue.

I have a WD-73737. There are 3 sources of video going to the TV. HDMI-1 is from the Scientific Atlanta cable box, HDMI-3 is from the LG Blu Ray player, and Input-1 is component from the Yamaha receiver (doesn't do HDMI).

My issue is that once I turn the whole setup on, in about 5-10 minutes of watching TV or a Blu Ray on the HDMI inputs the TV will "discover" Input-1, ask me to name it, then switch to it. I'm baffled on how to alter this behavior. I don't want the TV second guessing my input choices.

Anyone else see this and how did you solve?

TIA!

What's on the other end of the receiver? And would it be worthwhile to try taking that directly into the TV on the TV component-in rather than going thru the receiver? Is that other device turned on or off most of the time? Could you leave it turned off if it is usually turned on even when you aren't viewing from it?

I haven't seen this problem reported here either. It sounds to me like for some reason either the receiver or whatever is on the other side of it is not polling the TV during initial startup and when it eventually does, there ya go.

Have you tried naming that "Input 1" to something real on the TV in the TV menu? Maybe that will help it remember it is there rather than considering it a "new input" every time it sees it.
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post #3564 of 10987
11/13/09 at 5:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by winnebago View Post

I have combed the threads and posts high and low and can't find any info on this issue.

I have a WD-73737. There are 3 sources of video going to the TV. HDMI-1 is from the Scientific Atlanta cable box, HDMI-3 is from the LG Blu Ray player, and Input-1 is component from the Yamaha receiver (doesn't do HDMI).

My issue is that once I turn the whole setup on, in about 5-10 minutes of watching TV or a Blu Ray on the HDMI inputs the TV will "discover" Input-1, ask me to name it, then switch to it. I'm baffled on how to alter this behavior. I don't want the TV second guessing my input choices.

Anyone else see this and how did you solve?

TIA!

I have a very similar setup on my 73737 (2 HDMI, 1 Comp) but I don't have any inputs that continue to be detected.

Could it be a loose connection? Connect the Component to the other input (on the side). See if it continues to occur with that input. If it does it must be something with the receiver or cables. If it doesn't, I'd say the input is bad.
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post #3565 of 10987
11/13/09 at 7:42pm
I have a 5 month old WD-60737 that I bought back when you could get the $995 deal PLUS a free Odyssey putter. I've absolutely loved the TV, until today. I tried to power it up and all that happened was the normal LED blinking then solid green. I tried to do a system reset by holding the front panel power button in for several seconds. No help. Unplugged for several minutes. No help. Called Mitsubishi customer service. Absolutely NO help. Found a link to the service manual on the site. That led me to perform an A/V Reset by pressing the + buttons on the front panel at the same time
and holding for 10 seconds. Then, if necessary, perform a user level Initialization by pressing
<1-2-3> with the remote. This turned my speakers back on so I knew I had audio. They were turned off because of the home theatre. I then performed the self-diagnostics. To activate, press the front panel + buttons at the same time and hold for 5 seconds. This indicated a error code 66. The manual states Code 66 - Lamp enable is received at the PWB-MAIN but not at the Ballast. And Lamp did not turn on at P-ON sequence (Loose CJ4 connector)
(No Lamp inserted) No Lamp Inserted. (Disconnected cable between ballast and lamp) HV connection or lead wire to lamp. (Lamp-Enable goes to PWB-MAIN but not to Ballast) Lamp Cartridge Failure. I unplugged the lamp cartridge and inspected the connections and see no problem. Upon reassembly, still no go. One thread I saw on this forum stated that code 66 was a ballast problem. Any help is welcome.
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post #3566 of 10987
11/13/09 at 9:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by georule View Post

What's on the other end of the receiver? And would it be worthwhile to try taking that directly into the TV on the TV component-in rather than going thru the receiver? Is that other device turned on or off most of the time? Could you leave it turned off if it is usually turned on even when you aren't viewing from it?

I haven't seen this problem reported here either. It sounds to me like for some reason either the receiver or whatever is on the other side of it is not polling the TV during initial startup and when it eventually does, there ya go.

Have you tried naming that "Input 1" to something real on the TV in the TV menu? Maybe that will help it remember it is there rather than considering it a "new input" every time it sees it.

I have a Wii and XBOX360 using component connections. I plugged all the component connections from all my devices in to the receiver which then connected to the TV. I figured I could just leave it connected like it was on the WS-65908 I had before the new TV and just add the HDMI on the two devices that support it for the new TV.

I suppose I could go directly to the TV and bypass the receiver for video altogether. That might solve the problem. However, I will no longer be able to see the video output from the receiver for things like setup and such.
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post #3567 of 10987
11/13/09 at 9:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumpy91 View Post

I have a 5 month old WD-60737 that I bought back when you could get the $995 deal PLUS a free Odyssey putter. I've absolutely loved the TV, until today. I tried to power it up and all that happened was the normal LED blinking then solid green. I tried to do a system reset by holding the front panel power button in for several seconds. No help. Unplugged for several minutes. No help. Called Mitsubishi customer service. Absolutely NO help. Found a link to the service manual on the site. That led me to perform an A/V Reset by pressing the + buttons on the front panel at the same time
and holding for 10 seconds. Then, if necessary, perform a user level Initialization by pressing
<1-2-3> with the remote. This turned my speakers back on so I knew I had audio. They were turned off because of the home theatre. I then performed the self-diagnostics. To activate, press the front panel + buttons at the same time and hold for 5 seconds. This indicated a error code 66. The manual states Code 66 - Lamp enable is received at the PWB-MAIN but not at the Ballast. And Lamp did not turn on at P-ON sequence (Loose CJ4 connector)
(No Lamp inserted) No Lamp Inserted. (Disconnected cable between ballast and lamp) HV connection or lead wire to lamp. (Lamp-Enable goes to PWB-MAIN but not to Ballast) Lamp Cartridge Failure. I unplugged the lamp cartridge and inspected the connections and see no problem. Upon reassembly, still no go. One thread I saw on this forum stated that code 66 was a ballast problem. Any help is welcome.

Mitsubishi didn't offer to send out a service tech? Really? You're obviously still under the 1 yr warranty.
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post #3568 of 10987
11/13/09 at 9:25pm
georule - Mitsubishi did offer to send out a service tech on Monday. I called Friday at 6:30 PM so they said all repair shops are closed until Monday. Is there any reason I shouldn't contact a local shop myself? Alex TV in New Hope is great and they are open on Saturday. Their website said they are Mitsu warranty authorized.
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post #3569 of 10987
11/14/09 at 7:42am
I have watched the movie up on blu ray twice and both times it loses the hdmi connection right before the java load screen shows up. I have to switch to regular tv and switch back to get the signal. I have a oppo 83 connected everything through my onkyo 805 with hdmi. It seems to happen consistantly with this movie. Anyone have any similar issues.
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post #3570 of 10987
11/14/09 at 12:45pm
deal alert: you can get the c9 for $700 today, I just got one. More info:
http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthr...highlight=hdtv
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