2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 205

No, those were the default settings. I posted those in response to a question of what settings were avaialable in the new Picture+ user menu, since this is the first year models that have had those avaialble. Previous years had those in the service menu only.

The FAQ has a whole section of suggested early settings from users near the bottom.

Q29 is the other major firmware reference question. Of course the FAQ has developed over time, and some references are not aging as well as others. The one you point at re C9 and 737 was true in the earliest days when all the early C9s had the 11.00 firmware on them. It changed with 11.01 (and now 11.02). In fact, A2 specifically says to see Q29 for an update on the situation.

Thanks again. I read the entire FAQ and it answered all of my questions. Probably should have read it before asking a few of the above one's directly to you.

I saw from where people posted their calibration settings. Not many people had sharp edge and deep imager turned on. I have yet to mess too much with the setting. I turned down the contrast right out of the box but I left color on high and am using brilliant.

The one thing I learned from my last set was that I paid $500 bucks to have it professionally calibrated to "natural" settings and learned quickly that I prefer the bright brilliant look. Wasted that $500 beans as I set it back to where is was a week later. I get the whole "the way the director intended it to look" but I like it bright I guess. My reds are the only thing I want to turn down.

If you prefer a bright brilliant look, why did you turn down the contrast right out of the box? The contrast at the brilliant setting is just fine at max or a few clicks below. Shouldn't be any clipping occurring. If it was simply too bright, then OK.

Sharp edge adds unnatural edge enhancement effects. Deep imager does bizarre dynamic things with brightness, contrast, and gamma, and again is best left off.

Oh, I like it bright, but contrast at max setting right out of the box was too much. I think I have it at 70% of the slider.

Mostly the AA1154 box - it seems to malfunction sometimes where it will flip randomly to other inputs, or lose connection to an input and has to be powered off and on - seems like having a remote controllable device would be better since I have the harmony, rather than a device that tries to autosense and fails.

Hey all..

Just had the service tech visit and take a look at my 65737. He said there was nothing that could be done about my lack of image detail and suggested I swap sets.

I showed him the scene from EMPIRE that I posted pics of. He was blown away by how crappy it looked. He said it was the processing of the blues that was crushing everything.

He has no idea why the detail just isn't presented in my set.

Aclinml,
THANK YOU! Yes, 137 is the money code for HDMI-2! Thanks so much

I use a Harmony 880 and I used the original remote to have the Harmony learn the HDMI2 command. Did it this morning and it works perfectly. I used the pdf in the FAQ to switch the remote to "more" functions where the FF> becomes the HDMI2 button.

If I were to go into the advanced picture settings and tried to configure it, would these be saved as ADV1 or ADV2? If so, would my brilliant, bright and standard picture modes be unaffected? I would love to tweak, but I would want the ability to keep the basic mode setting in tact to revert back to.

Yes and there is a reset to default.

Great, let me know if you need any others.......

No Harmony support (or any remote for that matter), but fairly inexpensive:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

http://cgi.ebay.com/HDMI-4x1-HIFI-Sw...item3a57e20f2a

most of us have our sets but it has been reported on fat wallet that as of 3/2, Costco has the WD73C9 with stand for a one cent less than dozen ben franklin's.

I'm new to this site and have been reading and reading this thread to try and gauge the failure rates of the 737 series, the WD-65737 specifically.

For people that have had this TV for a while (6+ months), how is it holding up? I can't really seem to find anything solid on lamp life or general failures that cause you to require repair or replacement.

I'll be going to a few stores to hopefully check out some of these sets this weekend. After 4 hours of reading... I'm not any closer to gauging what the quality is for these sets just yet.

I'm sitting with a 10 year old hitachi 60" non hi-def tv that is starting to have issues. Going smaller just seems silly, but trying to buy a LCD that would be close in size for 4:3 viewing is far beyond my budget.

I'm not expecting 10 years out of anything made these days. After reading horror stories of all the LCD units frying power supplies or just flat out dieing in under 12 months, I'm really hesitant on settling with a 55" LCD by any company.

Any chance we can expect 5 years with only bulb replacements being the "repairs" that are necessary?

If I do buy, I'm sure I'll be back to try out some of these calibration settings. I've already saved some so I could find them easily.

Any input would be greatly appreciated and thank you for your time.

First is if you have the space buy a 73". second no one can predict what your reliability experience will be. DLPs have become more reliable over the years. Usage is so different from one household to another that predict five years of trouble free service for your situation is a total unknown. What you can do is determine what your costs will be. I would not use 5 years, the technology changes to fast. Instead figure a life of 3 years before obsolescence. A poster above is talking about 73" inch set with factory stand for $1200, that is Costco has a 2 year warranty, if you buy it with a Costco Amex I think a third year of warranty free. The bulbs are $99. Assuming typical usage you might, just might buy one bulb. That means the amortized cost of the TV will be $36 a month, probably a lot less than your cable bill. Use if for 3 years and give away, move it to a second room, whatever. The long time ownership mindsets don't make any sense any more. I am not saying the TV won't we be working 5 years on, you just will want something else. Remember the cost curve is going down fast. $1200 buys one heck of a TV today, think what $800 will buy 3 years from now. Short product cycles,. $36 a moth for the Costco 73" now for a 3 year life, $20 a month for 3 years over the next 3 years for an even better set. The price perfromance curve is hyperbolic. Just my two cents on 5 year product lifes on TVs sold today and 3 years from now.

Nobody has owned one of these sets for more than 10 months.

I've owned a 60737 for 10 months. Still happy with it --happy enough that now I also have a one month old 65C9 (the wife is thrilled with that one --it's her primary TV, my secondary).

I think we've had one reported bulb failure so far in this thread. You're covered on bulbs for the first year under the manufacturer warranty. I recently bought a spare to have on hand.

My read is if you're happy after two days there's a 80%+ chance you'll still be happy 6 months later --assuming you actually take the time in those two days to put your new set through its paces relatively thoroughly. If you're happy after two weeks, the chances are still higher.

The odds of you being happy after two days are somewhat less than that. I don't have a good way to quantify that aspect.

Buy a Mack 5 yr (total) extended warranty on a 65737 for around $125-150 (depending on how much you paid for the set), and have peace of mind at a reasonable price.

Thanks for the input. I get what your saying. Since I've had non-HD (nothing HD in my entire home) and had the same TV for the past 10 years... new technology isn't something I search for every year or 3 years. I know electronics in general are fairly obsolete every year or less.

I wasn't sure how long this particular model line had been in circulation. It seemed that it had been around for about a year. In my mind, if there are people using the set as a primary TV for 6 months without problems, I'd just feel better dealing with getting the TV.

It seems that many sites that have "review" sections for things, it's either people that just bought it and are immediately enamored with the product so the review is "IT'S AWESOME!!! YOUR AN IDIOT IF YOU DON'T BUY ONE!!!!" or it's people that had one show up DOA or had some strange issue and then badmouth the entire world because the product exists.

Not many post a review 6 months (or a month or a year) later that the product is still good and is working as they hoped.


That's the kind of info I'm looking for. People that own a tv in the series that have had it for a decent chunk of time that can honestly have a feel for it.

I appreciate the input. I'll continue going through this thread as time allows to see if there are any items that stick out in general. It seems that this set is at least worth looking into and considering.

That Costco deal sounds sweet. I paid $1,559 (6thAve) last week without a stand and just the Mits warranty. Oh well, not going to dwell, there's always a better deal.

With regard to useful life. I personally took a 3-year approach this time. I was torn on whether to buy this aging old school technology or get a smaller LED. The picture though is stunning, I hope the picture quality lasts three years and does not degrade as much as my LCD RP did. For $500 per year, these sets are a steal.

I picked up a 60c9 for $799.00 2 months ago and I love it. Most problems I have seen are people who are using older hdmi audio recievers.I am using the qam tuner,direct tv hd,a 1080p htpc and 360,all hooked directly to the tv.I like it so much that i have been watching dells site and almost pulled the trigger on a 65c9 for $999 with free ship. Here Is the stand I am using-

http://www.vcf.com/webapp/wcs/stores...3&N=4294967183 0 4294967163&categoryId=4294967184

saw the 73c9 and stand at costco on display for $1699; didn't ask anyone if it was actually cheaper but that was the posted price. $1200 would be a phenomenal deal on that set if you have room

Did you have to pay anything to get the replacement DLP?

Did Mitsubishi do an even exchange or did you have to put up some money as well for the DLP exchange?

It wasn't Mits... it was through the extended warranty that I purchased when I originally bought the 62725. It was an even exchanged though since they couldn't fix my older tv.

That's the argument for getting a 4 or 5 yr warranty instead of a 3 yr warranty right there, in my book (as you and I know, the xx725 models are from 2004-2005). From what I've seen, you're much more likely to win "Warranty Lotto" (i.e. getting a new TV because they can't find parts for the old one) in year 4 or 5, for not a lot of extra marginal cost (vs 3 yr).

Bummer. The wd-65835 is a far better tv than the wd-65837. I know because I have owned both. I would trade my brand new wd-65837 for a wd-65835 if I could.

ouch,
why do you say that?
just curious.
-kip

Then you should have bought one, they are still available.

Aren't the main differences just firmware? What controls are located where? As I understand it, the 2009 sets are an attempt to give more control for setting grayscale etc. to user accessible menus as opposed to requiring service menu access. I understand this was not wholy successful because Perfect Color, and Perfect Tint are not available in ADV modes.. is there something else I am missing. I tried a 2008 73" and sent it back, it looked simply awful out of the box. It also had a tremendous amount of bow in the screen. Even after getting the grayscale set, the 2008 I had looked simply awful. It went back in my 30 day return window. The 82837 has little or no bow in the screen, is more ruggedly built and the whole out of box experience is far superior. With just a grayscale setting it has vastlly more accurate color than the 2008. I am not entirely satisfied yet, but I have picked up a meter and a DVDO Duo. The 82837 and the Duo together are only about $1200 more than I paid at the time for the 73735 .

New 65737 showed up today.

THE **** IS...it is unresponsive to remote controls!!

Please post your CIE . are you using COLORHCRF?

thanks, Kip