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2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 256

post #7651 of 10986
Anyone know how much overscan is to much on these tvs. when i use the H position i can see about 2 inches cut off from both sides of the tv. In the service menu it says i have 6 percent overscan, not sure if i should take it back i have till next friday but would be a pain to return it.
post #7652 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by shumi_9 View Post

Georule,
thanks for the reply...no I am not using the Cable Card at all. I was told the 2010 models are on their way...should I wait? Anything new coming up from Mits as far as DLP HT screens?

There is a 2010 Mits DLP rumours (which has more than that) thread on the first page of this forum, you can check there. There are now multiple reports of 738s being spotted in the wild for sale, tho no "owner's thread" here yet.

The highlights seem to be making the 2010s internet-connected directly (i.e. their own ethernet jack) for some streaming video applications, and the addition of side-by-side 3D that (I think) will allow these sets to do cable/sat company 3D ("side-by-side") without a 3DC-1000 adapter from Mits (tho you'd still need the Mits adapter for some other formats of 3D).

I do wonder if a firmware upgrade to the 2009s could make them side-by-side 3D compatible as well, but Mits would have no incentive to do so even if it were very easy for them to do, so I am not holding my breath on the matter.
post #7653 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by Troggie View Post

Is there any reason to go with DLP-Link over emitter-based glasses? If they perform the same I'd rather just go the cheaper route. The only reason I can come up with, so far, to get the emitter-based glasses is to bring them with you if someone else is showing a 3D at their place. But, then there's the whole issue with Samsung v Panasonic compatibility. I hate having all these different formats.

The emitter glasses are mfg specific so you would get into the Samsung, Mits, Panasonic, etc thing. DLP glasses on the other hand are not mfg specific. At least that's my understanding.
post #7654 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by myron243 View Post

The emitter glasses are mfg specific so you would get into the Samsung, Mits, Panasonic, etc thing. DLP glasses on the other hand are not mfg specific. At least that's my understanding.

DLP link glasses work with any DLP TV just by facing the TV. They are nice because they cut out extra hard ware and don't rely on emitters. True universal glasses for any TV will be out next year.
XpanD are the most popular choice right now. X102 are the DLP link, X103 will be the emitter universal, release next month, I think. X104 next year will just work with any TV.
http://www.xpandcinema.com/products/glasses/
post #7655 of 10986
I guess it's slightly cheaper to get just the adapter and two pairs of X102's. I'm gonna wait til you guys start posting your reviews on how the stuff works with the adapters and the PS3

http://www.xpand3dtv.com/xpand-x102-...d-gla1023.html
post #7656 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muckrak3r View Post

I guess it's slightly cheaper to get just the adapter and two pairs of X102's. I'm gonna wait til you guys start posting your reviews on how the stuff works with the adapters and the PS3

http://www.xpand3dtv.com/xpand-x102-...d-gla1023.html

You should keep an eye on the 3D sections. It should all hit up in there.
post #7657 of 10986
Amazon has the 73738 for $2399 with free shipping if anyone is interested.
post #7658 of 10986
Hey guys,

I have the 65'' C9 coming (ordered from tiger direct for $880 shipped) and am looking for the best stand.

Someone mentioned the techcraft HBL60 from provantage, but it's sold out and that unit costs a lot to ship from other sites.

I have a PS3, XBOX 360, DVR and will have a receiver that I need to store, so it needs to have some good space in the cabinets.

What do you guys have??

Thanks
post #7659 of 10986
I use the $60 Lack series stand from Ikea and a $99 open air media rack that I got from Target.
post #7660 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by dontmissit View Post

Someone mentioned the techcraft HBL60 from provantage, but it's sold out and that unit costs a lot to ship from other sites.

Thanks

I got that stand off Amazon with free 2 day shipping with Amazon prime.

I had to modify it a little so I could fit my receiver (onkyo 807) in it. Basically ditched the second shelf and moved the middle bar down to the lower shelf towards the front of the stand to help with all the weight. I like it, great stand so far.
LL
post #7661 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenisG View Post

DLP link glasses work with any DLP TV just by facing the TV. They are nice because they cut out extra hard ware and don't rely on emitters. True universal glasses for any TV will be out next year.
XpanD are the most popular choice right now. X102 are the DLP link, X103 will be the emitter universal, release next month, I think. X104 next year will just work with any TV.
http://www.xpandcinema.com/products/glasses/

I think I'm leaning towards getting the 3DA-1 stand-alone Mits adapter, and a single pair of xpanD 102s to start with. Tho likely I'll let someone else here try that combination out first and report back.

The wife claims no particular interest in home 3D, so it'll just be for me at first, probably mostly for sporting events on DirecTV. That would seem to take the price down to ~$235 for getting started on seeing how it looks at home.
post #7662 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by georule View Post

I think I'm leaning towards getting the 3DA-1 stand-alone Mits adapter, and a single pair of xpanD 102s to start with. Tho likely I'll let someone else here try that combination out first and report back.

The TV, X102 and panny 350 3D BD player do work very well together, that is confirmed. Reports on the converter will be coming thats for sure. Keep checking the 3D section. It will show up there.
post #7663 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenisG View Post

I got that stand off Amazon with free 2 day shipping with Amazon prime.

I had to modify it a little so I could fit my receiver (onkyo 807) in it. Basically ditched the second shelf and moved the middle bar down to the lower shelf towards the front of the stand to help with all the weight. I like it, great stand so far.

MY GOD what do you have going on there....seems like you'll blow away into the backyard with all of that stuff!
post #7664 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenisG View Post

I got that stand off Amazon with free 2 day shipping with Amazon prime.

I had to modify it a little so I could fit my receiver (onkyo 807) in it. Basically ditched the second shelf and moved the middle bar down to the lower shelf towards the front of the stand to help with all the weight. I like it, great stand so far.

Hey dude stupid question, but what are the tall cylindrical things?
post #7665 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwhyrock View Post

Hey dude stupid question, but what are the tall cylindrical things?

Those are probably SVS cylinder subs.
post #7666 of 10986
huh I guess I need to do some more research. I'm in the market for a receiver at the moment. In the neighborhood of $1,000 is what I'm willing to spend. I have 4 klipsch towers right and an unused sub & center speaker. Probably looking at 7.2 I guess. I'm using a stereo Marantz at the moment and it sounds great, but no 5.1 just fake surround with nice speakers.
post #7667 of 10986
Hi, I have an older 62927 (4-5 yrs old?) that's been having a problem for a couple of months now. I haven't had a chance to diddle with it and thought someone here might be familiar with it. Specifically, the top edge of the image appears to have a dark shadow skewed across it; from 1 edge it's probably about .3 inch and goes to about .5 inch on the other side. It doesn't seem distort the image other than give that section a dark, almost black, cast to it. It is annoying that's for sure. I did a forum and faq search and it seems as if it might be a mirror problem but can't be sure. Maybe someone experienced can verify it? And since the unit is out of warranty, I believe, is there a way to fix this out of warranty? Is it necessary to call a Mits repairman? Or is this self-repairable? I'm a computer tech so I'm able to some stuff and even solder if necessary but would like to minimize the work if possible. TIA!

BTW, I did replace a bulb on this unit about a year and half ago; the bulb supplier gave me instructions to the effect that I should leave the bulb cover off as it helps shorten the life of the bulb. They said it wouldn't cause any damage to do so. So I did leave it off (still have it handy though).
Also, it doesn't look like the shadow changes if I have a letterboxed movie on or the screen in letterbox format or switch it back and forth. In full screen mode or in Expanded the shadow pretty much stays the same. It's almost as if there is a physical problem with the screen being bent or something similar.

Ooops, sorry had the wrong model # and posted in the wrong thread. SAT!
post #7668 of 10986
[quote=DenisG;18759239]I got that stand off Amazon with free 2 day shipping with Amazon prime.

I had to modify it a little so I could fit my receiver (onkyo 807) in it. Basically ditched the second shelf and moved the middle bar down to the lower shelf towards the front of the stand to help with all the weight. I like it, great stand so far.[/QU

Cool man, thanks for the Pic! I'm leaning towards getting that stand too. I am getting the pioneer VSX-1020-K, which is 6.3 inches high (onkyo 807 looks like its about 8 inches high). Would I be able to keep two shelves on the unit and still store the pioneer in there? I think I need two shelves to store xbox, ps3, dvr and the pioneer and I do not want to do side shelves because of space constraint.
Thanks again
post #7669 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenisG View Post

I got that stand off Amazon with free 2 day shipping with Amazon prime.

I had to modify it a little so I could fit my receiver (onkyo 807) in it. Basically ditched the second shelf and moved the middle bar down to the lower shelf towards the front of the stand to help with all the weight. I like it, great stand so far.

...WTH are those huge cylinders? Your subs?
post #7670 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Indy View Post

Those are probably SVS cylinder subs.

DIY subs.
post #7671 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by dontmissit View Post

Cool man, thanks for the Pic! I'm leaning towards getting that stand too. I am getting the pioneer VSX-1020-K, which is 6.3 inches high (onkyo 807 looks like its about 8 inches high). Would I be able to keep two shelves on the unit and still store the pioneer in there? I think I need two shelves to store xbox, ps3, dvr and the pioneer and I do not want to do side shelves because of space constraint.
Thanks again

The one problem I kept running into was finding a two shelf stand that would fit the receiver, I finally gave up and just got that stand.
post #7672 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by boomer400 View Post

Hi, I have an older 62927 (4-5 yrs old?) that's been having a problem for a couple of months now. I haven't had a chance to diddle with it and thought someone here might be familiar with it. Specifically, the top edge of the image appears to have a dark shadow skewed across it; from 1 edge it's probably about .3 inch and goes to about .5 inch on the other side. It doesn't seem distort the image other than give that section a dark, almost black, cast to it. It is annoying that's for sure. I did a forum and faq search and it seems as if it might be a mirror problem but can't be sure. Maybe someone experienced can verify it? And since the unit is out of warranty, I believe, is there a way to fix this out of warranty? Is it necessary to call a Mits repairman? Or is this self-repairable? I'm a computer tech so I'm able to some stuff and even solder if necessary but would like to minimize the work if possible. TIA!

BTW, I did replace a bulb on this unit about a year and half ago; the bulb supplier gave me instructions to the effect that I should leave the bulb cover off as it helps shorten the life of the bulb. They said it wouldn't cause any damage to do so. So I did leave it off (still have it handy though).
Also, it doesn't look like the shadow changes if I have a letterboxed movie on or the screen in letterbox format or switch it back and forth. In full screen mode or in Expanded the shadow pretty much stays the same. It's almost as if there is a physical problem with the screen being bent or something similar.

Ooops, sorry had the wrong model # and posted in the wrong thread. SAT!

Well, good luck anyway! It does sound like a physical problem of some sort, rather than an electronics issue, so it may very well be fixable at reasonable expense. If there are guides on your model's thread here, or a link to the service manual, you might try taking a peek yourself. A service call probably isn't too outrageously priced --you can ask an authorized Mits service shop on the phone how much it costs just to come out and take a look. Depending on where you are in the country, that's usually going to be less than $100. And if it is something they can correct quickly like repositioning a mirror and/or cleaning up any dust-bunnies or whatever, either it will be included or not too much more $$.
post #7673 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenisG View Post

DIY subs.

Send me the plans....I got two tens to work with and would love to do a project this summer. Send a link of the pics too....Looks Awesome!
post #7674 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by kchill View Post

Send me the plans....I got two tens to work with and would love to do a project this summer. Send a link of the pics too....Looks Awesome!

I'll see if my friend has them still. He is the one that made them, then he went with two seaton submersive.
post #7675 of 10986
I have the Mitsubishi WD-65837 and I'm adjusting the setting using the Spears and Munsil, and DVE blu-ray discs. My question is when I'm adjusting the colors with the perfect color and perfect tint controls should I look at the pattern itself or the square box with individual colors? The reason why I asked is because the pattern and square shows different shades of color that don't match each other. Like when I look at the test pattern the colors are undersaturated and perfect color and tint box are oversaturated. ADVICE NEEDED!!! Trying to adjust the setting until I get it professionally calibrated!!!
post #7676 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by boomer400 View Post

Hi, I have an older 62927 (4-5 yrs old?) that's been having a problem for a couple of months now. I haven't had a chance to diddle with it and thought someone here might be familiar with it. Specifically, the top edge of the image appears to have a dark shadow skewed across it; from 1 edge it's probably about .3 inch and goes to about .5 inch on the other side. It doesn't seem distort the image other than give that section a dark, almost black, cast to it. It is annoying that's for sure. I did a forum and faq search and it seems as if it might be a mirror problem but can't be sure. Maybe someone experienced can verify it? And since the unit is out of warranty, I believe, is there a way to fix this out of warranty? Is it necessary to call a Mits repairman? Or is this self-repairable? I'm a computer tech so I'm able to some stuff and even solder if necessary but would like to minimize the work if possible. TIA!

BTW, I did replace a bulb on this unit about a year and half ago; the bulb supplier gave me instructions to the effect that I should leave the bulb cover off as it helps shorten the life of the bulb. They said it wouldn't cause any damage to do so. So I did leave it off (still have it handy though).
Also, it doesn't look like the shadow changes if I have a letterboxed movie on or the screen in letterbox format or switch it back and forth. In full screen mode or in Expanded the shadow pretty much stays the same. It's almost as if there is a physical problem with the screen being bent or something similar.

Ooops, sorry had the wrong model # and posted in the wrong thread. SAT!

Do the easy things first. Take off the front screen and inspect everything. Where the main lens pokes through the shroud that separates the electronics from the light path there are gaskets, usually black foam or some kind of black flexible thin plastic seals. If the adhesive on them rots they can move out of place and block some of the image. A piece of something could fall on the main lens. Around the main mirror edges there are pieces of tape to cover the sharp edges, and if one of them comes loose it can move into a place where it's not supposed to be.

Check the screen; it's made up of two or three layers and if the inside one jumps the guide track it will cause odd effects on the image. Some of them are held onto the screen frame with metal strips and screws, some use double sided sticky tape which can fail. Be very careful with the main lens and main mirror, they are both delicate. Don't pick up the screen/frame assembly at the center of the top.
post #7677 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by boomer400 View Post

BTW, I did replace a bulb on this unit about a year and half ago; the bulb supplier gave me instructions to the effect that I should leave the bulb cover off as it helps shorten the life of the bulb.

Shorten? the life?.. don't you mean extend??
post #7678 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by kchill View Post

Send me the plans....I got two tens to work with and would love to do a project this summer. Send a link of the pics too....Looks Awesome!

Check out this thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=756408
post #7679 of 10986
Hey Guys I ordered a 65C09 from tiger for $829 They sent me the confirmation and everything, but today I got the shipping notice and the Set they shipped to me is the 65737 for the same price, are these models the same, if not whats the difference, maybe they ran out of c09's I noticed on their site they sell the 09 for $999 while the 737 is $1499.
post #7680 of 10986
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarpad View Post

Hey Guys I ordered a 65C09 from tiger for $829 They sent me the confirmation and everything, but today I got the shipping notice and the Set they shipped to me is the 65737 for the same price, are these models the same, if not whats the difference, maybe they ran out of c09's I noticed on their site they sell the 09 for $999 while the 737 is $1499.

The C9 and 737 are "different" models in that the names on the box and outside of the set are different, but most everyone's impressions of the sets seems to be that the C9=737.
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