2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 308

Anyone aware of upcoming deals on the 73"? I missed out on the Dell special two weeks ago.

--Dan--

hhgregg Store (1.9 miles)
9132 Taylorsville Road
Jeffersontown, KY 40299
502-495-2999
hhgregg Store (4.8 miles)
4140 Outer Loop Road
Louisville, KY 40219
502-968-6244
hhgregg Store (13.4 miles)
1050 E. Lewis and Clark Parkway
Clarksville, IN 47129
812-282-2999

Go haggle the price...include the stand...they will work with you...not like everyone is knocking down the door on these!

Back in the day at HP/Compaq we would often do a batch of an out of production model sometimes a year or more after the offical end of the model's normal life. Could be a big customer would order a few thousand to match what they arleady had.

Late production can occur for a number of reason. parts may have been leftover, or some material that was required to finish a batch might have been unavailble stalling production. Let's say for example you had 1000 2009 60" cabinets left when the 2010 launches but you don't have enouogh light engines to finish the 2009 models and make enough 2010s to meet your immediate commitment to you resellers. You don't throw away the old cabinents you wait till you get enough extra light engines and finish the batch. OEMs hate to waste materials.

On the other hand I don't know see why a unit sitting in a box on the shelf makes it any more or less valuable than the latest production of the same model. In general later should be better but you can't really tell.

So one might think the latest production would be better but that is just a possibility, and far from a certainty. The older production could be better. Again the assembly date can be very misleading. I have seen big batches of material sit for a long time waiting on a very minor item, like manuals or read this first kind of paperwork. You just don't know why something is built when it is. And when it is built does not tell you much unless you have the magic decoder ring and access to the bill of materials. Even then slipstreamed production fixes don't alway turn out to be an improvement when the product is in the field for awhile. Engineering may think they have improved or fixed something but in fact the cure ends up worse the original problem.

Just trying to make people think a little deeper about things.

hey all my light engine went out about 2 weeks ago..my second one on my wd65c9.. production date january 2010. I spoke with mitsu today and they are on b/o..not supposed to be in stock until november..I know there was a few people waiting for these for quite awhile..can they please tell me what the end result was..did they get a new model..did the part show up? any info is appreciated..oh yeah and mitsu did tell me they expedited the part on the 20 of this month...august and it had not shipped yet.. thanks for any help.....DGB

Mitsubishi expedited a replacement light engine and it is being installed for me tomorrow. I'd have updated to mention this but it's been a very hectic week with the beginning of the semester. Anyway, I'll report back tomorrow after the new light engine is installed at 1:00PM CST.

Thanks kchill,

Got the price I wanted ($1299) on the 737 from Paul's TV in CA. No tax and free delivery.

Good as long as your happy...enjoy!

Well, the service tech came out and swapped out my light engine. The TV works, now, but the geometry is significantly worse than what it was before swapping out the light engine, even after he attempted to fix it. He sat there for over an hour fiddling with it, and I had to go, so I just told him to leave it and I'll dick around with it. At least he noted it on the copy of the signed work order.

So, I hope nothing else bad happens with the TV, but if it does, I hope it happens in the next 15 months while still under the Amex warranty. The guy was saying they barely get called to fix DLP anymore because nobody's buying them. I suppose that's why they're so inexpensive...lots of real estate for the money, but they're unfortunately prone to more failures than the newer tech because of moving parts.

The bottom line is Mitsubishi fixed my problem under warranty, but it took a month of extreme hassle through over two dozen phone calls to get them to do it. They have a really big problem keeping replacement parts in stock, which is scary from a few perspectives.

Overall, they get a C- for support after the sale. The WD-60C9 itself I'd rate a solid B+ for picture quality when it works, but reliability has got to be a concern based on their lack of parts stock. This DLP series earns a C for reliability, but an A for value if you have no reliability issues with your set.

The parts stock issue is something that crops up from time to time. I had a light engine replaced on an HP DLP unit I own. I went through two weeks of no workie on a 3 day old set. They had engines on backorder,then available then backordered, then available and so son. This stuff is forecast, and everyone is doing just in time manufacturing and they blow it, either they blow the forecast or some supplier blows a forecast, sh%t happens all the time. I worked at HP and Compaq for over 14 years and I saw this on everything from printer to the largest servers. I managed a 2nd level support team and half of what we did was allocate scare materials to those who yelled the loudest. If they can't supply you with a replacement part in a reasonable amount of time, somebody is going to be providing you with another set. In fact sometimes that is the easiest solution. What a reasonable time is depends on when you start blowing your stack and making life miserable for someone or someones. Again, this is a commom scenario for virtually all consumer electronic OEMs.

As far as the geometry problem, the engine was probably not installed optimally and I would be on the phone making sure they understood just how unhappy you are about the situation. You could very likely get an upgrade. Customer service people do that routinely to get someone out of their hair.

We use to see cases where someone bought the most entry level pc we made. They would have repetitive issues and after a couple of upgrades they would for customer satisfaction would end up with the highest end product we built with every addon and geegaw in the book. We would marvel when we brought the original serial numbers which was for a $400 box, and they had some dual socket multicore, multi gpu workstation that was the same configuration unit Dreamworks was running.

A couple of computer fans and the color wheel are the only "moving parts" in a DLP and because that's it, it really isn't fair to make the above statement.

Well, there are those 1 million or so tiny moving mirrors.

Mike T

The biggest issue with reliability of DLP is how well engineered the thermal management works. If the various components are kept within the correct temperature envelope they are quite reliable. That does not mean that the sets will not need some routine maintenance. The fact that you have to move a significant amount of air through them for cooling means surfaces are going to get dirty, especially optics.

But overall the sets can work well for years with just a lamp change now and then. A wll designed LCD of course is in another league in terms of reliability. Unless there is some design or manufacturing fault the doesn't rear its ugly head until a certain number of hours, they usually outlive their usefulness.

But do not think LCDs don't fail. I saw literally milliions of them fail during my years at Compaq/HP most often because of a faulty designed or manufactured components.

I am having trouble with my DVE HD Basics bluray, PS3 and 65737. In using the brightness and contrast patterns I am missing the black and whiite information and the very end of the specturm. For example, on the brightness pattern, I do not get the 3rd bar that is lower than black. On the contrast pattern, the last two bars of white are the same level, as well as the last two bars of black being the same level. Setting brightness and contrast at their extremes does not make these appear.

I have the PS3 set to Super White On, Limited and Deep Color Automatic. I have tried switching all these settings with no luck. The PS3 is hooked up to my Denon 1611 Receiver, which goes to a Monoprice HDMI Switcher, which goes to my Mit. 3d Adapter, and finally to the 65737. Could one of those devices be clipping the deepest black and whites? Or is some setting wrong?

So I picked up the 73C9 from dell for 1499 and canceled it the next morning because I found I missed the 1159 sale by 5 days. Now Dell isn't even carrying the C9 on their site, so I think there is little chance to find it there for 1200.

Any thoughts on where to go?

The C9 is identical to the 737 correct?

http://www.buy.com/prod/mitsubishi-w...211162764.html

http://www.paulstv.com/DLP-Televisio...hi-WD73737.asp

Hi guys,

I just hit 5 years on my Sony 55 KDF-E55A20 and want to replace it in the family room with a 73 Mitsubishi. The built-in entertainment center we did for the Sony was built with a 73 in mind.

We will use the Sony for the Xbox in another room and I will have a Blu-ray with wireless built in for the new TV, so gaming and wireless are not important. I will just be using the Mits for Blu-rays and HDTV (and I assume 3DTV at some point). I've got a Harmony remote so the remote isn't important.

I'd like to trouble you for your opinions on the 2009/2010 models. I'm not a picture quality nut, but at 73 I'm afraid any PQ differences may be magnified. I think I am at the point of looking at this as a 3-5 year investment at best so I'm hoping to be able to get away with the cheapest option (WD-73737 $1,400). Do you think the picture quality difference (Edge Enhancer/Perfect Tint/Dark Detailer) of the WD-73837 ($2,000) is worth spending 40% more?

It looks like going to the similarly price 2010 models end up giving up some of the PQ option (though you do get 3D with the 73738).

I guess I'm hoping that the video upgrades are more hype than actual performance. My Sony didn't have the digital Iris and I didn't see any difference between it and the ones that did, though I think I may have spent more calibration time on it than my friends did with theirs.

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

IMO, No.

I have an 837 and a C9 and the differences are very minor. At the time I bought my 837 (65"), the difference in price was only about $200, so I went for it, but still not sure if even that $200 was worth it to me.

Thanks Stew, I appreciate the input.

For the last few days, when I first turn on the my system, I get the message "hit enter to update". There is no other info. I have the Mits 737, a Denon receiver, a D* box, and a Ps3, but as far as I know, none have any updates that just came out. Any ideas?

I really cant figure out what cord I need to hook my Computer to the 837? I bought a VGA to hdmi and no picture. Can anyone tell me what cord to buy, it would be a huge help?

Thanks

VGA is not the way to connect to the Mits. You need a digital connection. Do you have a graphics card with a DVI or HDMI port? If not and you have room in the PC get a low cost ATI or Nvidia card with HDMI that is the best and most straightforward approach. If you can't do that you can find converters, how well that will work depends on the quality of the device doing the conversion.

I have a video processor that could take VGA and make it work very well. It is a DVDO Duo, that is a $1200 MSRP device. There are effective solutions at a small fraction of that, but you really get what you pay for. An ATI HD5450 can be bought for about $40 if you have a free PCIex16 slot to intall it in. That would allow HDMI to HDMI and is a favorite of the Home Theater PC crowd.

How big of a difference is there between component versus hdmi in picture quality on these sets, any obvious differences?

There should be no difference between component and hdmi on any set.

I guess the main difference would be that component can't do 1080p

Keyword, should. I know my Pioneer BD-320 looked simply awful on component attached to my Mits. Might could have dialed it in, but it looked so bad I didn't bother. I was just doing a test and the picture was so crummy, that it was useless for the purpose of the test.

Are you serious?

Digital -> analog --> digital will almost always look worse than digital straight through. If the source was analog or the tv was analog (CRT) you may be right in sone cases but your blanket statement is clearly false. The d/a and a/d conversions required to go through component will result in quality loss.

Hello everyone,
I'm using MTyson's calibration settings for my wd73c9. I found that this gave the picture an orange tinge, but then I discovered these settings:

GRWL, 128
GGWL, 105
GBWL 99
IDL 33
DBK 1

Changing these settings around got rid of the orange tinge, but I just want the best picture that I can get. Can somebody please share these settings and which mode you used to calibrate them in? Thanks in advance!

Really is a case by case basis. I have an older HP DLP, it would have to be HDMI 1.0, or 1.1 at most. Many people found with those sets that stuff would often look better on component. But the fewer conversions the better is a pretty hard rule to argue with. I know the Pioneer BD looked simply awful on a the Mits component in and it a very decent player. That is the only time I ever bothered to attach something via component to the Mits. I bet if I had gone through my DVDO Duo via component to the Mits it would have been a different story. Not much reason to use component these days if you can avoid it. People are still dependent on some legacy devices.

Component is fully capable of 1080p, as long as the device it's connected to will output 1080p over component.


Yes.



You might think so, but it's not true. Secrets of Home Theater did a comparison a few years ago with various displays and devices and the results were 50/50 in terms of which looked better.

Now, should you use HMDI? Yes. It's simpler to connect and you don't have to worry about devices that won't output 1080p via component.

But, if you're hooking up a non-1080p device (DVD player, DVR, etc.), you won't be able to tell the difference (and if you do think HMDI looks better, an equal number of people will probably say component looks better with the same devices).

Personally, I have 2 D* DVR's connected to one of my Mits. One is via HDMI and one is via component. There is no difference in PQ between the two. None. Unless I remember which activity button I pressed on my Harmony, I'd never know which box I was using.

Those are the service menu settings for grayscale. They apply universally, they will not necessarily be the same on your set as some elses. You don't want to mess with IDL, and I have heard DBK does not work. If you are calibrating grayscale in one of the preset modes like Natural, that is all that you have to work with. If you change those settings, and you are using advance mode to set grayscale you will have changed grayscale there as well. The problem with those setting is they don't really work equally across the board. So if you raise green for example it might make get to where you want to be from IRE 50 to IRE 100, but you might end up with the darker grays being to green. What it does is kind of establish the general mix of RGB for your grayscale then in advance mode you can refine it with the low and high RGB settings. If you are working in Natural you just have to make the best compromise that gives you the least average error and does not cause something to go way off. Trying to do this without a meter is crazy, you do have a meter right?

Now my set tends to jump around a lot, not as much as before I installed an external fan, but I have giant temperature swings in my living room from air conditioning and what seem good one minute, might be way off when the temp changes. Now I use an external video processor so I can use Natural mode and where RGB is set in the service menu does not quite keep things flat, I can make adjustments in a 10 zone system provided by the video processor. Again, you have a meter right?