2009 Mitsubishi Owners Thread (C9/737/837) - Page 315

It is pretty hard to say whether the limited content I have looks right with the glasses. I don't have much content. But I know the 2010s don't look like that and they use the same glasses... kind of puts in perspective doesn't it? Assuming you get the same kind of filter effect out of the glasses and the 2009 sets or at least some of them, have the blue green color and 2010s don't look that way the math does not work out in my simple mind. Samsung sets don't look that way either and they use the same glasses whether they are LCD or Plasma.

The bulb and holder. Contrary to the other response, I have one I ordered from Mitsubishi sitting on the shelf right next to me. I just looked at it again, bulb + holder.

You can turn off DLP link in 3D with the 2010 thats why there is no color shift. It will never be an option on the 2009 so get use to it or buy DLP link glasses

Exactly all the pre 2010 sets have this cyan shift. It is not noticeable when using the 3d glasses. There is debate on whether ir or dlp link glasses are better on the pre 2010 sets. Ir glasses have very grey blacks where dlp link glasses show rainbows for some people. Unfortunately no perfect glasses for these sets right now.

Have you knocked heads with Mits on this concern? Based on the content I have seen the color sucks in 3d with the emitter based shutter glasses. This is a performance issue. Are you certain it is beyond the grasp of what Mits firmware control can do. One can take a hard position with Mits that is not acceptable, whether they do anything about it or not, I intend to take that position with them. Clearly if the feature is within their firmware control they could provide a toggle. If people don't ask for it there is zero chance they will do something about it. It may be there is zero chance whether people complain or not. I am not satisfied, I have every right to voice my displeasure and at the very least I will hear their positioning on the subject.


I don't understand the problem from an engineering perspective, is it not addressable from what Mits has control over, is it only controllable with embeddded firmware in the chip that only Texas Intstrumemts controls or was hardcoded?.

Mits does on occasion do service firmware upgrades after the end of production life of a model. We only have to look at the recent upgrade for the x33 sets. As they say while there is life there is hope.

One can take the position with them that at the very least they knew they were selling a non-optimal solution for the pre 2010 sets by not selling DLP link glasses in their starter kit. At the very least they have been disingenious by not putting disclaimers in their kits...

Anyway we will see. Clearly the first and second tier of support has probably never even seen one of these TVs let alone viewed one in 3d. The folks on the phone did not even know where on the screen the version number was... Lower left they said... yeah!

The following thread deals with exactly what you are describing:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1265214

I have a big problem with it too. Unfortunately, Mitsubishi refuses to do anything about it other than say it can not be fixed.

Could someone tell me the behavior of the television when the bulb is burned out? Such as the color of lights, etc. I think mine is shot.

Steady yellow light means lamp failure. Steady red light means the TV needs servicing.

Not to mention there will be no picture, no menu etc...Audio should still work though.

I just talked to the drone at Mits... of course their position is that it is "normal". That is not an accidental word, that is the scripted word they are required to use.Anyway I asked her did she want me to participate in a brewing class action suit. The least Mits should be doing is offering folks DLP link glasses, and not selling them active shuttters.

Anyway I was very pointed about a firmware upgrade. I told her to find out if a firmware fix was coming or not so I could determine if I want to be part of a class action. I said do you want me in a class action suit. Or more pointedly do you want me suing you.

She agreed to research about whether there is active current ongoing work on a firmware fix for this.. It is obvious Mits does not want to do anything an is hoping that if they stonewall, people will just go away on this issue. Most will sorry to say.

I am not a gentle guy when I am being fed corporate bs speak. I won't even begin to pretend I was gentle with them. If you don't make the customer facing people feel pain, you won't move the mountain. People should be very difficult with Mits on this issue regardless of their normal demeanor.

I sat behind the veil for too many years at HP and Compaq before that. I fully understand that unless there is a lot of squeak there is no grease. On the other hand responsible companies would commit to fix an issue like this without too much pressure. They would want the customer loyalty god know Mits could use it.

Brand new in Feb 2010.

When I try to power it on.. the front panel's green light blinks fast..the blue Mits screen appears and then shuts off. I've tried system reset, unplugging for awhile.. nothing fixes it. Anyone experience this? 8 month old TV with this problem doesn't make me want to run right out and by another Mits product at this point.

Have you called Mits? Isn't your set still under warranty?

I wouldn't say ALL the pre 2010 sets have the color shift. Mine is perfect, and I use the Active shutter glasses. The color and resolution are spectacular. The only complaint I have is that it's not as bright as I'd like.

I'm having a strange problem with my set. I've been using it just fine for the past few months but I did not have my hdmi switch hooked up then. I just hooked it up so my 360 and PS3 can goto the same input. It seemed to work fine at first but then when I tried to use my PS3 one day after using my 360 the TV would not sync with it. With the PS3 powered on the TV would act like it was trying to do the HDMI handshake and would flash from blue to black but would never show the picture. This kept happening even when I used different cables and bypassed the switch entirely. The 360 would still show up fine on this input however. I hooked the PS3 up to a different input and then the video finally came through but it still would not work on the original input. I then started using this input with the switch and everything was great but then I ran into the exact same problem again except now the PS3 will work on the old input (the one that originally gave me problems). For some reason it seems like once I use the 360 on an HDMI input that input will not allow the PS3 to connect to it. Any ideas? I've tried different cables and a different splitter. Those aren't to blame, its purely a "handshake issue."

I'm looking for a 60" to 65" Mits for my friend. Dell periodically has good deals, anybody know where else to look?

paulstv.com often has good deals too and most report that when they order the 737 models, they get the 738 models instead.

Yep...and have the extended 5 year warranty. But they were supposedly calling me before closing for the weekend... and didn't. Now its too late. So no TV and an 8 month old TV craps out on me.

100" HD projector has never let me down.... go figure.

If you have anything connected using the HDMI inputs, try unplugging those from the back of the set, plug them back in and then turn on the TV. I don't know why, but my 60-C9 would do this sometimes and unplugging the HDMI cables would fix it.

Man... I really thought that was going to work. But....
It wouldn't make sense to think it was the bulb...because the blue screen comes on for about 5 seconds.

I've had my 60737 since May 2009. Liked it well enough that I bought the 65C9 for another room (but at the same price) in late 2009. April 2010 I noticed a few dead pixels on the 60", not so many as to really be annoying (couldn't see them from my normal sitting distance), but it was still under warranty, so I called. . . got a new light engine the next week, no more problem.

You do want an extended warranty on these sets, the longest you can find, and a spare Mits bulb in the closet, even if you're under Mits warranty. If the bulb dies in the first year, you can still get it replaced. . .and use your spare while you're waiting for the new one.

Most 3rd party warranty places will let you buy an extended up to 3 months before the primary 1 year manufacturer warranty expires. See the FAQ for some links in the General section.

I got a working 3d apater this time around. Plugged it between my PS3 and my Duo.. PS3 > 3d Adapter > Duo VP > 82837 would not work, the adater did not recognize the TV with the Duo in the middle. Next, I tried PS3>3d apater>TV which worked but that was not ideal because of audio connections on HDMI and went around my prized CMS and scaler in the Duo.

Finally I placed the 3d apater between the TV and the Duo... so the current chain is PS3 > Duo> Mits 3d adapter> 82837 which handshakes properly. Now here is the rub and I saw some mention of it in the 3d threads. The 3d adapter messes with the levels. It clips all the above whites. I was able to set the Duo at -10 on contrast to get the clipped above whites back, and then I could increase the TV contrast +10 and get my levels back to normal. Now this kind of idiocy has a big downside, color and I suspect grayscale are way off and the TV wil have to be recalibrated. HD color bars looked bad. Only upside I could see with this kind of work around was that with -10 on the Duo and + 10 on the TV I had no clipping on color.

I don't know what Mits is doing but it is pretty obvious they don't give a tinker's damn about what kind of picture quality you get. Full clip of above whites means your highlights are killed, that and the Cyan in 3d makes for a very ugly mess. Now I am fortunate in that I have a tool in the Duo that lets me work around some of the design problems with the Mits 3d adapter. But gee whiz what is going on with the engineering at that company?


I think what they are doing is justing boosting the level on Mits adapater to make up for what you loose with glasses. That would be fine if it did not cause the TV to clip all the above whites. It is almost as if they really only intented you to use the 3d adapter with a single 3d source.. and then maybe you don't care about the clipped whites. since you have nothing to compare it with. If you have the adapter inline all the time so that ( most people would want it after their AVR and before the TV) any 3d source you have will use it then you have clipped every source going through the adapater 3d or not. I guess Mits wants you to buy a 3d adapter for every source.. ridiculous.

Oh and you would think if was the adapter was turned off it would just be a pass through but no you have to have the stupid adapte powered on to get any video through it...

I've had my C965 for a couple of months, and I still have a high pitched whine coming from the back of the television. How do you stop that?

It could be a fan, could be the color wheel, or it could be some kind of ground loop or failing chip in a power supply. I would call Mits.

All,
my 5 year old WD62628 went out - power and voltage regulator boards. $600 to fix. Mits won't help since "this model is not known to have any problems".
Options are to spend $600 on that one or buy a 65737 for $1200 or a 65638 for $1100.

Thoughts on the 737 option? Is it just the '09 version and 638 is the '10 version with no 120Hz?
I sure hope Mits quality has improved.

Thanks!

Go through Paul's TV and get the the 73738 for $1399. If you will not be using 3d in the future the 65737 might be the way to go. The 638 does not have Advanced mode and you can't do much to adjust the color or grayscale, it is essentially crippled.

In your opinion, do you think the quality has improved enough to warrant the 800$ upcharge to upgrade to the 738 over fixing my old 62628 for $600? 3D will likely not be an issue for me. Also, I assume you meant the 65738 - the 73" won't fit where I need this sucker to go.
Thanks!

Class action? That's funny. I'm sure the CSR was laughing under his/her breath when you threatened to sue.

If there is a class action I will join it. I am not interested in the spearheading one. There has been talk of such a thing. When I was at HP as soon as legal was brought up the agent was no longer allowed to deal with the issue, it had to be forwarded to legal and elevated to a case manager, engineering also needed to be notified. But that was at a real company with a real customer service organization. None of that necessarily had impact on the disposition of the issue but it was a requirement. So depending on the organization legal threats do have impact.

I was just contacted by Mitsubishi again, and again they say from an engineering point of view they can not create firmware which will allow a separate toggle for DLP link. Without understanding how the control circuitry works I can't really debate whether they can or they can't. But realistically the issue is more complicated than whether you can or can not revise the software to defeat DLP Link and still have the TV in 3d mode, it is that they sell emitter glasses as a the solution for all their 3d enabled TVs and as anyone who has seen the results can tell you DLP Link is absolutely wrong with emitter glasses. If someone were to pursue this legally the first stop would be with Texas Instruments one would have to believe that Texas Instrument would not suggest or endorse DLP Link and emitter active glasses at the same time with 3d so that part would probably be open and shut.

It might protect Mits for liability on the TV itself but the legal exposure is probably to those who paid for the 3d starter kit. Mits has obviously taken a calculated risk along the way, in a legal action there would be discovery and most certainly the emails of the design teams would have documented the what and why and that most likely would be the smoking gun. Sadly the remedy might only be 2 pair of DLP Link glasses.

It is very possible that they Mits fully understood the legal impact of what they were doing and that is why the 3d adapter is available separately. Some droid in first or second level support at Mits won't be laughing at the conclusion of a conversation with me as it won't be pleasant enough or short enough to laugh over. I managed call center folks for years and I can tell you that work can literally break people down. I am not finished with my conversations with Mits though they may very well be futile. If there is a class action suit I will join it not just because the set has a design flaw but because Mits was not straight up when they marketed the Starter Kit, they could have explained openly that those with 2009 and earlier model would have a much better experience with DLP Link than with the Emitter glasses in the starter kit. Too bad even DLP Link is a flawed solution on the 2009 and earlier sets because of the rainbows most people will see with them.

In companies that actually give a damn they do surveys on every call and those surveys impact the review of the agent handling the call, so normally it is not that funny, when the customer is unhappy. Believe me the difference in working with customers in an organization that cares about customer satisfaction and one that does not is a night and day for the employee who is customer facing. It does not feel good defending things that are basically not customer friendly.

Good for you. I appreciate your efforts because they benefit anyone who owns a mitsubishi. Thanks!

Can anyone that has the 73" c9 tell me what the dimensions are for the base of the 73" C9? I have searched through this thread and found an unconfirmed measurement of 37"w by 15"d but just want to verify that. I just ordered it and want to make sure my stand I have here is big enough to hold the base until I can get a new one. Thanks!