Official Samsung LNxxB650 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 2

PS3 and USB Movie

yes with the ps3 set the tv to low, in the ps3 display settings set rgb level to limited and under video settings set blueray video output to Y Pb / Cb Pr / Cr and it will do everything automaticly for you. your games and moview will have to correct black levels, any other settings and blacks will be crushed or to grey.

Although many on this forum probably won't make use of these settings, until I can upgrade to DirecTV HD, I'm using just a standard signal and these settings have helped greatly.

Thank you very much Span.

Here are my settings. I've lived with them for a few weeks and they seem about right to me. I much prefer a neutral set, and had my Sammy plasma calibrated professionally to accomplish that. I couldn't afford to get all my sets calibrated so I used the plasma as a reference and fine tuned my other sets.

I got quite close with these settings, though I think the gamma is a bit off since the depth I see on my plasma is not quite there on the 40b650.

Movie mode
Back light 4-5
Contrast 99
Brightness 46
Sharpness 15
Color 49
Tint 51/49

Black tone and DC OFF
Gamma +1
Color Space Auto ---> see my note
WB 23, 23, 21, 23, 13, 18
Flesh tone 0
Edge E. Off

color temp WARM II
DNR OFF
and 5/1 for Auto motion.

As for color space. I tried a number of settings but when I displayed the same image on both sets side by side when I switched to Auto the colors matched very closely to my calibrated set. Chad B. who did my calibration also reviewed a few of the B series Samsungs and found the auto setting to be quite accurate, I trust his judgment.

The settings by Matt L SEEM to be the nicest I've tried. Good dark levels... good deep blacks, and nice colors. Where do you find the CNET settings?

Contrast 99? Interesting.

Contrast to 90-100 is recommended when having to go to 4-5 backlight otherwise it's gonna be dark. Increasing the gamma will help to some degree but some may not like it. Don't forget, we all see things differently even if the TV is set professionally. Just cause a TV is set protfessionally doesn't mean you will like it. I always just go with what I like. I have used those calibration dvds and yes they can help but in my opinon, if you like what you see then your good, if not then start calibrating till you find the right settings for YOU.

I saw blacks looking grey also when setting the HDMI level to normal. If you look at the end of a movie(Credits), the background will not be black but grey. I believe it should be black not grey, so I leave HDMI level set to low.

How do you determine what level you should put the backlight in? Does DVE tell you that?

Backlight should just be set to lowest setting you find acceptable in your viewing environment.

I just talked about backlighting in the main B650 thread. If I go above 4, the backlight starts bleeding on the edges. Basically, I don't see black, I see more white/bluish on the edges. I don't have much of a choice other than stay at 4 cause I don't like seeing the white on the edges where it's meant to be black.

Wow, with those settings you are really crushing your blacks. You could have saved yourself a lot of money and bought a cheaper set and got the same results.

The B650s are capable of an excellent picture, you are not seeing it though. Try some of the other setting posted and see if any of them look good to you. You may end up back at these settings, and that's fine, but at least see what this set is capable of.

Here are my newest settings. I like these the best so far.

Mode: Movie
Backlight: 4
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 44
Sharpness: 40
Color: 50
Tint: 50/50

Advanced Settings
Black Tone: OFF
Dynamic Contrast: Low(gives it that POP,burst of color, that wow factor)
Gamma: +2
Color Space: auto
White Balance: RO25,GO23,BO23,RG32,GG25,BG25
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enchancement: OFF

Picture Options
Color Tone: Normal
Size: Screen Fit
Digital NR: OFF
HDMI Black Level: Low
Film Mode: OFF
Blue Only Mode: OFF
AMP: Custom 10/2

I finally got mine well calibrated by using a GDM-FW900 Computer monitor as a reference. It's a beast of a CRT... probably one of the best, most color accurate and detailed CRTs from back in the Tube age. It was well over $1000 new when I bought it.... 23" monitor.

I used several pictures posted on both to adjust the settings on the tv and get the picture looking very close to the FW900.

I will be posting my settings very soon for both "Game Mode" and "Movie" mode.

From memory... I can tell you that putting contrast anything above 80 will completely flatten out bright areas A LOT... loss of lots of detail. It doesn't hurt TOO much to turn on Dynamic Contrast though... to make up for the slight loss of deep black.

Movie mode, by default, is also VERY close to being perfectly color accurate too...
I really didn't have to do much of anything to get that close to the FW900s color.

"game mode" needed a ton of adjustment to the "White balance"... since you have to go with the "Standard" preset color temperature. I've gotten it very close... pretty much identical to Movie mode.. though. Which is great for Gaming... because it means VERY low input lag. The only thing I'm not getting is AMP in game mode.... Picture quality is identical to "movie mode" otherwise.

Okay... my settings are

Movie Mode
Backlight 2 (Should really be the only thing adjusted for your personal lighting conditions, I think. Otherwise, 2 is about right for a DARK DARK movie room... night time viewing without lights.)
Contrast 78 (above 80 and you are killing a lot of detail... Contrast STILL looks great... even without being at 100)
Brightness 45 (I think this can be adjusted a TINY bit... but 45 is a very good place)
Sharpness 12 (I'd say that this is MORE of a personal taste thing... but most
recommend a softer picture.)
color 50 (I think this can be adjusted anywhere between 45-55 without doing too much damage to color accuracy)
Tint 50/50

Black Tone OFF (I say DEFINITELY keep this off... I had it ON at first.... but it kills your dark area details)
Dynamic Contrast Medium (It's probably better to have it to LOW or OFF... but this is my personal preference)
Color Space Auto
WHITE BALANCE
R- Offset 24
G- Offset 24
B- Offset 21
R- Gain 25
G- Gain 34
B- Gain 47
Flesh Tone 0
Edge Enhancement Off
xvYCC Off
Warm 2
Digital NR Low or Off
HDMI Black Level Normal
Auto Motion Plus 10/2

Game Mode is essentially the same except Color Temp is sstuck on NORMAL
White Balance
R-Off 25
G-Off 24
B-Off 13
R-Gain 35
G-Gain 22
B-Gain 8

So there is a still a bit of difference between Game mode and Movie mode... but it is VERY close...
I'd say biggest rule of thumb is not to blast the Contrast or ANYTHING too high or low for that matter....
I could keep trying to adjust... but I'm happy enough with these settings....
Just keep in mind that Movie mode is very close to perfect as is.... and don't kill yourself trying to
get a perfect picture. The only way it's really going to ever happen is by forking over a few hundred bucks for a proffesional calibration job.

From what i've seen from my own TV and from what Samsungs own techs have said, sharpness does nothing for digital or HD, it's only for analog signal/source. Why do people keep messing with it saying this # or that # is best when there is no actual difference unless your viewing some sort of analog picture or source?

I can't use normal for HDMI, it doesn't look good to me. I see the blacks better on low.

Except that that it seems to make a VERY VERY clear difference to me....
Having it only effect SD sources is garbage....

I have seen the image sharpen noticeably when using it on a HD feed. Whether you want to use it or not is a different matter.

I prefer the image to be as sharp as possible, without any side effects, so I use it.

Two quick questions for owners of the 37 LN37B650. (I've read through this thread and the main 650 thread and don't see the answers.)

The UK HDTVtest review of the UK 40 Series 6 model (http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/Samsung-LE...alibration.htm) says: in Film Mode Auto 1, when fed a movie in 1080i (say from HD cable) this TV detects the 3:2 pulldown and correctly deinterlaces the movie to 1080p.

Can LN37B650 owners confirm that this works on the 37 North American model? (A slightly different panel than the 40 and up at least wrt the color processing.)

Also, when the TV deinterlaces movies which have been pulled down to 1080i60, is the end result effectively 1080p60 or 1080p24? I.e. does the set not only deinterlace, but also remove the telecine judder so that movies from cable/satellite are displayed at the same frame rate as you get with a 1080p24 signal from a BD player?

(I'm not referring to the special new dejudder processing, I mean does the set in effect disregard the extra frames which the telecine has inserted, so movies on cable are as smooth-looking as BD movies?)

Thanks very much in advance for replies.



Cross-posted in the main 650 thread.

SUCH A COMPLicaTED QUESTION!!!

To clarify, those were two questions, each with a straightforward yes/no answer. North American 37" 6 Series: correctly deinterlace 1080i60 film-based content, yes or no? Reverse the pulldown to 1080p24, yes or no?

I'm asking b/c since I want to watch HD movies on cable at the original frame rate, I need to know whether the conversion can be done by a choice late-model TV with flashy onboard processing or whether I'll have to add an external video processor (being discussed in this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1155816).

TIA once again.

If people see a difference with sharpness on HD or digital, fine. I never said it wasn't possible. Samsung says it doesn't have any affect on HD or digital and I don't see the slightest difference on HD or digital only on a analog source. I've even used THX's optimizer and i could set it from 0-100(just an example maybe different numbers) and I never saw a change in sharpness.
I set my sharpness by using the DirecTV Guide. It's the only way I can see any difference. From my guess, the guide is analog not digital or HD but I do not know for sure. I can only assume it's analog since it's only thing I notice a change on. I notice no change when viewing a digital or HD channel.

Nighthawklude99,

I just want to clarify your statement before other people become confused. You have your information backwards. The TV is expecting 16-235 with HDMI Black Level set to LOW. The TV expects 0-255 with HDMI Black Level set to NORMAL. You are telling folks the opposite and I can already see the confusion. The ONLY time I can even think of that you would want HDMI Black Level set to Normal is when viewing a PC via HDMI. When the option is greyed out, it means that the TV has identified the correct display method by identifying the source being input (which is almost always 16-235). Even though the greyed out option may show the "Normal" setting, the TV is recognizing 16-235. I hope this clears things up a bit.

I've also posted these settings in the owner's thread. The only change I've made is that I now use an Auto Motion setting of 10/10 for video games. I know its blasphemy but I can deal with a little artifacting for the insane frame rate that it provides. I've also been toying with a "Warm 1" Color Temp but I think I still like "Normal". I know "Warm 2" is the standard but it's much too red for me.



Calibrated with the Digital Video Essentials (DVE) Blu-Ray

With an HDMI connection:

Movie (I was wrong........I unfortunately can confirm that there IS auto-dimming in every mode except Movie. I guess the scenes I was comparing with weren't dark enough. In an extremely dark scene, if you decrease the Backlight in Standard, Natural or Dynamic Mode, you will notice that it stops getting darker after you hit 3. In Movie Mode this doesn't happen and is certainly indicative of auto-dimming.)

Backlight: 4 for Night Viewing, 6 for Daytime

Contrast: 95 (This produced the brightest whites without losing the greyscale variation. Engaging "Dynamic Contrast" destroyed the variation of the whites at the upper end of the scale.)

Brightness: 44 (On the large greyscale pattern, this preserved the deepest black the signal could provide while still showing the entirety of the greyscale. An increase to 45 actually made the black appear more grey, and decreasing to 43 kept the same deep level of black as 44 but started crushing the greyscale variation. 44 was absolutely perfect.)

Sharpness: 0 (I keep it at 0 for TV, Blu-ray and DVD, but use 15 for gaming.)

Color: 50 (These Samsung's are great, saturation was perfect at the default setting.)

Tint (G/R) 50/50

Black Tone: Off (I wish everyone could see what happens to the greyscale when this is enabled, it completely crushes the variation but produces absolutely NO increase in black level. They should call this setting "Detail Destroyer".)

Dynamic Contrast: Off (Same here, this setting destroys the white end of the greyscale and results in a HUGE loss of detail in near white situations. Keep this thing OFF!!)

Gamma: 0 (I understand that some people have mentioned that Spanbauer's settings appear "washed out"....That's NOT due to Movie Mode and the lack of Auto-Dimming, it's due to the Gamma setting of 2. With the Gamma at 2, the TV comes out of black WAY to quickly which results in a washed out picture. Put your gamma at 0 and I'm sure your picture will improve.)

Color Space: Custom (This where things get really tricky. After doing the color calibration you will see the biggest difference in your Greens, trees and foliage will no longer appear neon green but instead natural. Using the setting of "Auto" results in a Red Primary that isn't accurate and also less saturated Greens. Using the "Native" setting results in a slightly more accurate Red than "Auto", but a HIGHLY inaccurate Green. For some reason "Custom", without anything changed, produced the most accurate primaries of all 3 settings. The only primary that needs adjustment is Green, Red and Blue were basically perfect. The secondaries (Cyan, Yellow and Magenta) can all be brought in line with the following settings except for a slight deviation in Magenta. However with a little tweaking, all colors were near perfect. In the custom color setting adjust the following colors as follows: Adjust the green setting of "Green" to 54. Adjust the green setting of "Yellow" to 56. Adjust the green setting of "Cyan" to 48. Now cycle through all 3 modes ("Auto", "Native" and "Custom") while viewing something that should appear green and you will immediately notice the difference.)

White Balance: Default (I use a color temp of "Normal" so my whites appear to my eye as they should. I know some people like to use "Warm 2" and then adjust the white balance, but I've always thought those settings appeared WAY too red and I don't like it at all. I stick with Default White Balance and a Color Temp of Normal.)

Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: Off
Color Tone: Normal
Size: Screen Fit
Digital NR: Off
HDMI Black Level: Low
Auto Motion Plus 120Hz: 10/5 for TV, Blu-ray and DVD//10/8 for gaming (I love the look of Auto Motion contrary to many posters.)

Hey Doug. Still don't have the TV, but I must say the Gamma thing is confusing me since here:

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/Samsung-LE...re-Quality.htm

They suggest 2.2

No, they are not saying SET it at 2.2, that is impossible, they are saying after calibration it's 2.2 which is exactly where it should be.

I looked at their settings and in some ways they are close to those I posted earlier, though we differ on the colorspace. I might try their settings, a little tweaking might improve it even more.

jcd29,

Just like Matt L said, the gamma measured at 2.2 which is an absolutely perfect gamma measurement. That measured result is due to an accurate gamma setting (and overall calibration) in the user menu. In the review, they recommend the same setting that I do which is a Gamma of 0.

Ah, I get it now.


Anyone have any good SD settings?

I stand corrected.

OK, I've got an LA32B650 with an AA01 panel. I just finished doing a few calibration runs with an i1 display LT. I reckon I've got it basicly as good as possible without using an external video proccessor. I have to say, I'm VERY happy with the picture, it looks fantastic now that it's calibrated properly!

Also, thank you to Bill Mitchell who helped me out with some calibration advice.

I'll post my settings below, but bear in mind that your set will most likley be a lot different than mine, even with the same model and panel.

Here are the graphs from HCFR:

Greyscale:


Gamma:


Luminance:


Colour Temp:


CIE94:



For interest and comparison, here are the settings I ended up with:

Movie Mode
Colour Tone: Warm2
Backlight: 6
Contrast: 79
Brightness: 32
Sharpness: 0
Colour: 42
Tint: G44/R56
Blacktone: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Gamma: 0
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: Off
Noise Reduction: Off

White Balance:
R-Offset: 25
G-Offset: 25
B-Offset: 22
R-Gain: 50
G-Gain: 25
B-Gain: 43

Colourspace: Custom
Red: 51/0/0
Green: 20/63/0
Blue: 17/0/73
Yelow: 38/57/0
Cyan: 31/56/65
Magenta: 62/0/54

I must say that I'm not sure what those graphs are telling me, so it's hard for me to guage the accuracy of your settings, but I find it hard to believe you're not crushing your blacks with a brightness setting of 32. I've never seen a calibrated Samsung go below a brightness setting of 44. Just curious if you notice any black crush with those settings. I'm assuming not, based on your apparent expertise with calibrations, but I find that brightness setting interesting.