Vizio VP322 32" Plasma Pop Of Death Fixed - Page 6

Thats cool you guys have found the fix for Vizeo's. I dont know about that guy that jumpered past the fuses on power supply board though. Just asking for other problems.

Like fire?

My VP322 is still running strong after three years. I have been very satisfied with it, especially for the price I paid back then. I have this thread in my bookmarks though in case this problem occurs. It seems like this is a fairly common issue with these tvs.

ok so I've had my Vizio 32' plasma for what will be 4 years this summer 2012. I had the same problems as frequently mentioned on this forum about a year ago, got it fixed for more than I probably should have paid but oh well, problem solved...well now I have a different issue. T.v. works great for a few hours, then the picture and sound shut off, but the Vizio light remains white rather than clicking to amber as though the set was turned off or powered off. I notice also the top of the set is almost literally hot enough to fry an egg so I am assuming it is a safety shutdown or something the t.v. does to keep itself from blowing up due to excessive heat (and yes I know that plasmas are heated gasses in a tube, this is far hotter than the set usually gets tho). I don't want to buy a new t.v. because I have a good picture and sound with this one, it just won't stay on...any suggestions??

Hello,

I have had my 32-in plasma since 2008 and I am just now starting to get these "pops" when the set is turned on after sitting overnight.

Anyone in Phoenix completed this repair? I will be happy to buy the parts and beer. I would try to fix it myself but I am absolutely terrible at soldering. After I am done it looks like the T-1000 crapped all over the circuit board.

Im a scrapper and picked up one of these from a client. Did not have a power cord so i used a computer power cable. No light on the front and no clicking. I took it apart and found 4 caps builging. My question is, is there any reason for me to replace the caps with the vizio not lighting? Any advice would be greatly appreicated... Excellent forum btw!!!

It is normal for the for the VIZO logo not to light up with bad caps in the power supply. Go for it. You will likely wind up with a very nice plasma TV for mere peanuts.

I've got a 32" vizio but It doesn't look like any of the boards pictured so far on this forum. I've got it all apart and cant see any caps bulging. Any Ideas where to start? Obviously i've got the same problem. Tv won't turn on. Got it from a friend for 30 to try and fix it but I can't see anything wrong with the board...........

Model Number is Vizeo VO320E

This fix applies to the VP322 32" Plasma. The VO320E is a LCD model.

Soooo Any idea what to do?

You from WV? Just ordered my caps... hopefully ill have a groovy plasma for 11 bucks here shortly...

Well 11 bucks and 15 minutes of soldering and I got myself a new TV... Now to find more cowbell.. Thanks for the help!!

Just wanted to thank AVS Forums for helping me fix my wife's TV. I don't watch it myself, but I was very happy (and she was impressed) that I was able to fix a seemingly dead TV for $5, rather than spend $400 or more for a new one.

I had five bulging caps, two of which were leaking electrolyte out the tops. I didn't grab a picture of the dead caps, just the bare board and the new caps after install.

Thanks again!

Anyone have any ideas where to look for tips on fixing my VO320E Vizio LCD?

My undying gratitude to all. Same problem on a 32". 2 3300uf 10v (changed with 16v), 2 1000uf 10v (changed with 16v) and a 1000uf 24 (changed with 35v). Works perfectly. I left everything else in, but have spares. The 1000's and 3300's were 5mm spacing, and the 470uf was 3.5mm. I bought a spare 470uf but the cap wasn't bulging, and even though I was going to change it out anyway, the solder on that one connects it to other circuits, so I erred on the cautious side and left it.

Used baggies for the screws and not one left over! Wife couldn't believe it, no screws left out. The boards didn't have the shields like I have seen in other pictures, just the back of the set. Strange, but it probably helps with air circulation not being covered up.

Got all my parts on Digikey, ordered on Wednesday at 6pm and received package on Friday at 2pm. I can't recommend these guys enough.

Thanks again to all the contributors that made this understandable and simple.

[quote=Double Eagle;19575309]It is in the thread up a few posts.
[indent]I Had to order 1 of these 1000uf 10v Capacitors Part # P5521-ND


2 of these 1000UF 25V Part #P5544-ND


AND 2 of these 3300uf 10v capacitors Part # P12735-ND
/QUOTE]

I noticed on several threads that 2 1000uf 25v caps should be ordered but I don't see these on my board. I see in the pics what appears to be the 2 caps but on my board they are 470uf 25v. What gives?

Michael

What is the model number of your set?
Is the PS a J707A?

I have a 6 year old toshiba model # 42hp66 it's 6years old , warranty is long gone. The other night my wife was watching it and it made a loud popping noise and we lost the picture, there is still sound and we can switch channels but we get nothing else. regardless of the name, I'm no high tech, I did take off the back cover to look for bulging capacitors , but I haven't found any. is there anything else I should look for? I checked local repair rates and found that I could get a better quality LCD tv for about as much as it costs to fix this one. Being a do it yourselfer ( I'm frugal) , I'd like to try and fix this myself. Any ideas?

What size and manufacturer Iron are you guys using and what tip type? Thanks

[


This fix is for a Vizio VP322 plasma.
Start a new post for your set.

This should work fine:
http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1340642936&sr=8-1&keywords=soldering+iron

You will also need some desoldering wick:
http://www.amazon.com/Desoldering-Wick-Roll-Handy-Dispenser/dp/B0002LLW5E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1340643085&sr=1-1&keywords=desoldering+wick

I did this fix and the TV powers up and works fine except for one thing. The volume will decrease to "0" and if I try to turn the volume up, it will automatically return to "0". I read online to do a "hard reset" which fixes the problem for about 5 minutes, then it does it again! Any suggestions?

It sounds to me as if you might have messed up while reassembling the set , and you might have the volume down button pinched a little bit. ALSO , check the connector where the control panel connects to the main board, it might be loose ( not fully seated ) .

I really don't think it is temperature issue. IMO, it was just a bad batch of poor quality caps.

Another satisfied customer.

Just to be different, I ordered mine from Mouser, they are closer to me and usually get the order out the same day and by USPS priority mail it gets here the next day.

I got Nichicon caps, I've had good luck with them on my audio projects, although the Panasonic are good caps too.

Just for reference here's what I ordered.

Qty Part # Desc.

1 - 647-UPM1A471MPD 10volts 470uF

2 - 647-UVZ1A332MHD 10volts 3300uF

2 - 647-UPS1A102MPD 10volts 1000uF

2 - 647-UPS1E102MHD 25volts 1000uF

Kinda wish I had noticed there is also a 47uF in the vicinity that I actually pulled then realized I didn't have a replacement so i just carefully soldered it back in.

But it's working now, so I'm happy

I'll add one little tip,it's a technique I've used over the years on big components you can't cut off first, like electrolytics.

Put a dab of flux on one of the joints, then just heat the joint up real well until all the solder is liquefied.

Then kind of pry or tilt the cap from the bottom until the first lead comes out of the hole.

Then you can do the same thing on the other lead and the whole capacitor will almost just fall out.

Just be real careful it's all heated up good and the solder is liquefied or you will pull the bottom trace, or through hole, or especially the top trace off with the cap!

Then it's real easy to clean up the old solder with solder wick or a solder sucker so you can insert the new part.

After everything's done, clean up the flux and everything with a little brush and some alcohol, (or they sell official flux remover liquid and brushes, lol), and check for solder bridges.

These boards are silkscreened so it's pretty easy to see the positive lead marked, and if I remember the negative lead had a flattened circle on the silkscreen.
Edited by da_burl - 9/29/12 at 8:00am

I have a Vizio VP322 HDTV10A, p/n: 10123020022. The neighbor was throwing it away so I figured what the heck. I'll try to fix it. The initial symptoms that were given to me are the TV wouldn't power on at all. No orange stand bye Vizio light, no nothing. After reading several forums I took the back apart and sure enough there were two bulging 3300uF 10v capacitors (C233 and C234). I ordered two replacement caps and changed them out. After getting everything back together the stand bye Vizio light would come on/turn orange and everything returned to normal. IT WORKED!!! Unfortunately, my confidence was cut off as the Vizio light below the screen stayed white like the TV is on, but the picture goes away/turns black after 10-20 mins of operation. (Not sure about sound). There were no other visibly bulged/damaged caps on the power supply. So again hitting the forums I ran across a repair kit offered by LCDAlternatives http://lcdalternatives.com/Repair-Kit-Vizio-VP322-Plasma-TV-Capacitors-P1699285.aspx that comes with all the following caps (C233 and C234 3300uF 10v, C236 1000uF 10v, C201 47uF 100v, C206 100uF 16v, C241 470uF 10v, C204 and C205 1000uF 25v capcitors). The kit is good, but now after replacing all these caps the display will not even turn on for the 10-20 mins like before.
My current symptoms are the Vizio light turns orange in stand bye mode, once the power button is pushed the Vizio light turns white, a relay clicks, the D104 LED on the main logic board turns solid Green/yellow, followed by the D201 turning Green/yellow blinking once/second 3x, the display attempts to turn on/flashes grey, the Y-sustain board starts to buzz like power is there, within 1 second the relay clicks again, the display quickly goes black/blank, both the D104 and D201 LED's on the the main logic board go out, the Vizio light below the screen stays white. It's almost like the picture trys to load, it can't, and therefore a safety shut down occurs? Any help moving forward would be appreciated. Or there might be a video post on here of a 32" Vizio tv flying from a second story balcony. Thanks!
Edited by frantzray - 12/26/12 at 1:27pm