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Vizio VP322 32" Plasma Pop Of Death Fixed - Page 7

post #181 of 195
12/29/12 at 12:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by frantzray View Post

I have a Vizio VP322 HDTV10A, p/n: 10123020022. The neighbor was throwing it away so I figured what the heck. I'll try to fix it. The initial symptoms that were given to me are the TV wouldn't power on at all. No orange stand bye Vizio light, no nothing. After reading several forums I took the back apart and sure enough there were two bulging 3300uF 10v capacitors (C233 and C234). I ordered two replacement caps and changed them out. After getting everything back together the stand bye Vizio light would come on/turn orange and everything returned to normal. IT WORKED!!! Unfortunately, my confidence was cut off as the Vizio light below the screen stayed white like the TV is on, but the picture goes away/turns black after 10-20 mins of operation. (Not sure about sound). There were no other visibly bulged/damaged caps on the power supply. So again hitting the forums I ran across a repair kit offered by LCDAlternatives http://lcdalternatives.com/Repair-Kit-Vizio-VP322-Plasma-TV-Capacitors-P1699285.aspx that comes with all the following caps (C233 and C234 3300uF 10v, C236 1000uF 10v, C201 47uF 100v, C206 100uF 16v, C241 470uF 10v, C204 and C205 1000uF 25v capcitors). The kit is good, but now after replacing all these caps the display will not even turn on for the 10-20 mins like before.
My current symptoms are the Vizio light turns orange in stand bye mode, once the power button is pushed the Vizio light turns white, a relay clicks, the D104 LED on the main logic board turns solid Green/yellow, followed by the D201 turning Green/yellow blinking once/second 3x, the display attempts to turn on/flashes grey, the Y-sustain board starts to buzz like power is there, within 1 second the relay clicks again, the display quickly goes black/blank, both the D104 and D201 LED's on the the main logic board go out, the Vizio light below the screen stays white. It's almost like the picture trys to load, it can't, and therefore a safety shut down occurs? Any help moving forward would be appreciated. Or there might be a video post on here of a 32" Vizio tv flying from a second story balcony. Thanks!




frantzray

Any luck with this set?
I have one with the same trouble and symptoms.
Let me know if ya find any thing,its been siting for awhile sort of gave up for awhile.
Thanks
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post #182 of 195
12/29/12 at 10:22pm
I know for sure the polarities are correct. I am wondering if I didn't damage a couple of the pads/rings/foil where the capacitor leads are soldered on the green side of the circuit board? When removing the capacitors one at a time, I started by sucking up the melted solder with my desoldering tool. After this, I heat up each lead of the cap and gently wiggle the capacitor side-to-side with my fingers until it falls out like a loose tooth. After carefully disassembling everything I am even sure to use desoldering wick. On all but two, I noticed nice complete silver rings/pads on the green side of the circuit board. There appears to be a damaged portion of the pad/ring/foil for the positive leads of C205 and C233 (could be my bad solders?). I read somewhere else online that this kind of damage is normally caused when you're desoldering components. When the caps are installed the leads are bent over so the capacitor doesn't fall out of place while the cap is hanging upside down during installation. If someone desolders a capacitor and tries to pull it out while any of the solder is still adhered to the pad, that portion of the pad can be ripped off and become damaged. Are my options to upload a flying tv video or shell out the $$ for a new power supply circuit board? If they are, I may be posting that video yet.
Edited by frantzray - 12/29/12 at 11:23pm
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post #183 of 195
12/30/12 at 12:09pm
You may be able to scrap back on the LAN with a knife where the pad is broke ,and extend the solder to connect the cap to the LAN.
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post #184 of 195
1/16/13 at 8:10pm
Well I shelled out the $$$ for a new power supply. Got everything put back together and I am getting the same results as the ending of post #179.

My current symptoms are the Vizio light turns orange in stand bye mode, once the power button is pushed the Vizio light turns white, a relay clicks, the D104 LED on the main logic board turns solid Green/yellow, followed by the D201 turning Green/yellow blinking once/second 3x, the display attempts to turn on/flashes grey, the Y-sustain board starts to buzz like power is there, within 1 second the relay clicks again, the display quickly goes black/blank, both the D104 and D201 LED's on the the main logic board go out, the Vizio light below the screen stays white.

Now what?
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post #185 of 195
2/8/13 at 1:40pm
Going back the forums I found the next most likely suspect could be the Main Board ( board with all the inputs-hdmi, coax, audio in/out). Got one, replaced mine, and still same results as post #184
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post #186 of 195
2/11/13 at 1:39pm
Talked with a guy I work with that used to fix consumer electronics for a living. He gave me this advice. "You should check Vs voltage from the power supply to Y sustain (170V-200V). Their should be a sticker on the plasma panel with values for those voltages. See if the Vs goes down when the picture goes dark. If it does unplug the Y sustain from the power supply and try again. If voltage stays on then you have a bad Y sustain loading the power supply down. Also check all voltages coming out of the power supply and see which one (if any) goes down when the TV goes into shutdown."

The sticker located on the plasma shows Va is rated at 60 VDC and Vs is rated at 195 VDC.

Results:
When Y sustain is plugged in. Set voltmeter to VDC and check voltage at the two Vs pins and one Va pin.
With the Y sustain board plugged in mine was getting 0 VDC on all 3 pins as soon as the power button was pressed. Or you could say it never got to the rated values indicated by the manufacturers sticker.

With the 9-pin Y sustain cable removed from the power supply I re-tested. This time after pushing the power button I got the following stable and continuous voltages left to right while looking at the power supply.
VS = 195.5 VDC, VS = 195.5 VDC, NC = Not used, GND = good, GND = good, GND = good, VA = 58.7 VDC, GND = good, and M5V = 5.09 VDC.

Ordered a replacement Y sustain Friday night and will have an update after getting it installed tonight.

*to check grounds (pins 4,5,6 and 8) just put the voltmeter on the ohm setting and see if there is an open circuit between each pin and the ground screw used by the power cord.
Edited by frantzray - 2/11/13 at 6:15pm
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post #187 of 195
2/11/13 at 6:13pm
Got the replacement Y-sustain installed. Found one of the solder points on the back of the old Y-sustain (one part of the large copper coil near the top of the circuit board) to be burnt. After replacing the y-sustain board with the new one I am still getting same results. Improper voltages on the Vs and Va pins when the Y sus cable is connected and proper voltages when the cable is disconnected. Wondering if my replacement Y-sustain board is DOA? Or if the z sustain could be causing similar results. Waiting for further troubleshooting procedure.
Edited by frantzray - 2/12/13 at 10:04am
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post #188 of 195
2/11/13 at 7:21pm
Plasmas can be very difficult to fix, esp if you are not already knowledgeable in ohm's law, multimeters, troubleshooting etc. Anyways, it looks like one of your boards is shorted to ground.Unplug the TV from the wall, make sure everything inside the TV is connected, and do a resistance check between every power pin (Va, Vs etc) and ground. They should all ready near infinity. If one of them steadily reads below 10 ohms, that board is either shorted or it is feeding a shorted board. You'll have to start disconnecting things to narrow it down.

It sounds like your y-sustain is driving a shorted y-buffer board. You can inspect the y-buffer board by doing a careful visual examination, normally when the chips go (vertical series of square ones on the left hand side) they short and the chip's casing is breached. The old y-sustain is probably toasted from trying to drive a shorted buffer, and the new one may already be damaged as well.

The thing is with these plasmas is that there is so much high current, high voltage and interconnection inside the set that when one board goes, the power surge usually takes out others or they become weakened and fail soon after. Normally the Y-Buffers/Sustain go and both have to be replaced, most people will look at the price tag and scrap the whole set.
Edited by DarkVenture - 2/11/13 at 7:32pm
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post #189 of 195
2/12/13 at 10:13am


I think these are all the connections coming off of the Y-sus. I will get a better pic and descriptions tonight after going through each one tonight.
Edited by frantzray - 2/12/13 at 8:16pm
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post #190 of 195
2/12/13 at 11:44am
You just need to probe the 9 and 11 pin connectors, the little ones are less important.
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post #191 of 195
2/12/13 at 7:09pm
Ok, I am not sure about this short to ground idea. I am getting the following readings with all circuit boards connected except the main power cord connected to the wall.

9-pin results after testing each pin for resistance to ground.



11-pin results after testing each pin for resistance to ground. *Note: this actual pic shows the connector removed so you can visually see what each pin is labeled as.




Also with everything physically disconnected from the Y-sustain except the 9-pin that goes from the power supply to the sustain board itself. I am getting this shut down behavior. Thinking I got hosed on the replacement Y-sustain board.
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post #192 of 195
2/12/13 at 7:24pm
So the primary side of the Y sus is OK but you may have a shorted Y Buffer or the secondary side of the y-sustain (which is more difficult for someone inexperienced to measure) might have a short. What I would do next is a very careful visual inspection of the Y-Buffer chips, there are going to be around 8-12 of them on the left hand side. What I would do is shine a light on the casing and check for holes.

You could also disconnect one of the Y-Buffer boards at a time and see if the set fires up with half the picture missing. If it turns on it works, just turn it off immediately and replace that buffer board. Don't allow the set to run with only one buffer board as this can cause the remaining good one to blow after about 30 seconds (never mind how I know).

You can also check the fuses on the y-sustain by doing a resistance check. Just look for any component labeled with F followed by a number. They can be very tiny or large and are typically placed near power connectors.I think I see one in your first picture hiding underneath the aluminum heat sink.
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post #193 of 195
2/12/13 at 7:45pm
I am really confused by your previous statement. There are 8 chips along the left side, but I am not sure they are Y buffer chips. I think it is all one piece.

Here is a better pic of the entire Y-sustain.



Or do you mean the two chips (XRLBT and XRRBT) on the bottom of this pic? If so, they appear to be daisy chained in the middle by a similar 4 wire connector that is found when going from the actual Y-sustain to the XRLBT chip (two grounds and two Va). Also, these (XRLBT and XRRBT) chips have six ribbon style connectors on the bottom of each chip that I am assuming goes to the screen and one connecter that goes directly to the main logic board via a ribbon style cable. Also FYI, I just unburied the (XRLBT and XRRBT) chips today. In all of my past troubleshooting the ribbons and 4-pin cable between the two bottom chips have never been completely disconnected while trying to power on the tv.


Edited by frantzray - 2/12/13 at 9:05pm
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post #194 of 195
3/5/13 at 4:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by CleCakYngMfd View Post

One day this past July, this Vizio TV had trouble turning on. It quickly clicked right back off. I tried it again, and again.

Finally, it did stay on. It did power-up somewhat normally for about a week until finally it would not turn on at all. There is no amber VIZIO glow.

“It’s dead, Jim!”

I searched and found this thread. Therefore, I opened up this Vizio VP322 TV, located the power supply board, and saw five caps bulged on their tops.

I purchased a capacitor replacement kit from LCDalternatives. The kit comes with 9 caps. I replaced all 9 caps, bulged or not, leaking or not (I did not have any visible leakage).

The VP322 has been working once again for the past two weeks now!

 

 

Update:  It is March 2013.   All is well, as far as the PS fix!   Thanks to all who posted the fix with this model!

 

I have this other issue on pinks and greens showing up in the brightest parts of an image with  B&W programs.  This has been there before the PS gave up.  

 

I will search the forum, and if need be, post about this 'color' problem.   It goes away upon reset of the Menu items.   But, it comes back over time. mad.gif

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post #195 of 195
4/2/13 at 9:09am
Good Day all; old thread but seems some what active; I have sorta the same issue*

I got the VP422 42" from a family member; they said they were watching a movie and it just stopped working.

First thing i did was check fuses; the main fuse by the input was good; but there in the center towards the top the T4amp 250v fuse was blown. I've replaced it and applied power (plugged it in) there are 2 clicking sounds come from the PS unit when it gets power; the visio light is Orange; no reaction or clicking when i press the power button. One green LED on sub-board off the PS board.

I can't find an exact match where someone had similar problem I'm still TS the issue with multimeter to insure the PS is the issue or not before i waste money. Caps are all good; no bulges. Rev of the PS board is 1.1

So far this is my Power outputs.

AC_Det = 5 v
Lamp (top one w/ orange wire) =.4v
5vsb = 5.2v

No other power.. no power at all when you press the Power button from the PS_on.. no power output from either side vS or anything. All other fuses good. Only that center one was blown (Which I've replaced and has not blown again. Does this sound like a problem PS board or Main board> ? IMG00301-20130402-1044.jpg 285k .jpg file IMG00302-20130402-1044.jpg 453k .jpg file IMG00303-20130402-1044.jpg 153k .jpg file IMG00305-20130402-1107.jpg 691k .jpg file

Any input would be great. See attached photos.
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