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Vizio VP322 32" Plasma Pop Of Death Fixed - Page 3

post #61 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by dapanza View Post

On a side note, does anyone know if Vizio discontinued this model TV? Because I can't find this TV ANYWHERE!

Yes, it was discontinued about a year ago. Vizio does not make plasmas any longer.
post #62 of 204
Luckily I found this board, but I don't know where to go from there. I've had this problem and took the back off and got the power board off. Can someone tell me what my issue is? I posted a photo below. Please e-mail me at daly1524@yahoo.com if it wouldn't be too much trouble. Id sincerely appreciate it. I can't take this anymore!!!

post #63 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruinedmuhday View Post

Luckily I found this board, but I don't know where to go from there. I've had this problem and took the back off and got the power board off. Can someone tell me what my issue is? I posted a photo below. Please e-mail me at daly1524@yahoo.com if it wouldn't be too much trouble. Id sincerely appreciate it. I can't take this anymore!!!


I can see two obvious bulging capacitors. Read the rest of the thread and you will find out what you need to know.
post #64 of 204
How do I get them out of the board? Just pull'em?
post #65 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruinedmuhday View Post

How do I get them out of the board? Just pull'em?

Absolutely NOT! You will destroy the solder pads on the circuit board. You will need a soldering iron and some de-soldering wick to suck up the old solder. I found this how-to at http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/desolder.htm.

I have both a solder sucker and de-soldering wick. The de-soldering wick works fine and is very cheap. You should be able to get some at Radio Shack.
post #66 of 204
I just want to thank everyone on this thread. I'm a civil engineer by training which probably tells you my electronics capability. Nevertheless, for $6.22 worth of parts from digikey, my 32" plasma Vizio is working just like it did 2 years ago out of the box.

Thanks for being here.

Maurice
post #67 of 204
hi everyone ... my quest. is almost the same but some thing different. well this tv same model, since it a vp 322 is that plasma or Lcd? i thought it was Lcd, i cant find the manual... not sure it said is on the back?

ok the quest. i have this tv for i guess almost 2 yr. roughly. anyway, just about 1 weeks ago the kids said it started clicking on and off, all happen in one day the clicky noise
then it went dead, the light on the vizio didnt come on or the orange color didnt come on . well un plug it and try it again, took it to another out let and still nothing.

so i check the cords make sure they werent loose they still good. so anyway, the kids dad just said find someone fast to work on it.... i live in a small town and everything 30 or more miles..... the 2 places that use to be they retired or went out of business,,

so i found a few places that was 50 miles and one of them said he do a free est..... and the other chg 25 dollar to look at it, well the kids dad said take it to the free est......then he said when can you take it up there? i said i dont know i find out......
well the guy said you can bring anytime, so i headed up and got lost and then he said i can meet ya and take the tv and give,I give you a call.

well i sorry that gave me a slight red flag b/c he could meet me and take the tv and say heck i dont have your tv... so i said no that ok, i need to find where your located.

then got there he took me to his house instead of the work place. and he took the tv and went in side and he had like maybe 10 more tv tooken apart and they scattered all over the floor and house didnt look proffessional.

well he said then i get to and let ya know i will try to make it as cheap..... as i can get it i have to see if i have the parts, on the phone he said he had parts but at one of the area of the work place. so then that made me thing of another red flag..... but heck the dad wanted me to find somone fast and cheap.

ok then he didnt even write a order form for the tv, so that way i have a copy showing he has the tv, well i said sir, i need a work form showing you have the tv b/c the kids dad will want that... he goes oh ok he seem like he didnt like that

, hey I dont know this man and he could come up and say he dont have our Tv and since i dont have the paper work and recipt of purchase we be scewred. this made me another red flag.... but since i got the paper then i left it. well a week went by and the kids dad said has he called i said nope....

he said if he hasnt get anything then i take it some where else and i said well, if you wouldnt be in a hurry i couldnt of had more time and maybe found someone closer and somone i felt more comfortbale and talk to these people better... but you wanted somone now and fast, so dont complain...

so i called yesterday, he said he been busy and didnt get to it but had it partial off, and said he try to get to it and either yesterday or today he call and give us an est. i said oh ok.

well he called back in 2 hrs......said i have apart and said this tv has 7 broads.... and he said that it going to cost around 200.00 or no more then 225.00. he said i trying to go the cheapest for you.... he said i have to rebuild one of the broad??? what type i dont know!!!!! he said i have the parts for that he called them MODULES!!!!!! which i have not heard of that one time on these power supply broad , i heard of capacitors!!!!!!! which i dont know if there the same, or this tv perosn is rip off perosn or what. Is there really 7 broads to this TV???

then he said on top of that he said he has to fix the power supply and they have modules.. and he said he hope he had the part for that. if not he would have to order that and it be very exspense.

then after all that he said well if that dont fix it then he said if he ran into more problems then he would call and let us know how much it would be....
now i know i woman and i might not be that smart on things,,,

after reseaching and reading what you and some other on here sounds just like my problem on this tv and i think he trying to take me for a ride...
the thing that you all are saying are pretty cheap, but i know you pay more at a shop, but like the one man said maybe i just guess what i remeber he said less then 100 dollars to do that.

i feel like if i let him to the work he just going to keep comming up saying more wrong with it and again if you push that much out why not just go get a new on. heck you have a yr warrnaty then you get addt warrnaty coverage.

i just feel like they too many red flags....... in my life time i had 2 tv repair and one the emerson i bought was a bad deal i had to fix it 2 b/c of the trasitor what it called go bad 2 and then finlay after 2 time, i said i just but me a new one... it did last 4-5 yrs.
now my pansonic i had reg tvs,, i bought used had it over 12 yrs... and one time to fix it only cost me 50 dollars. that not bad,,, and still doing good.

guys give me your advice what i gave symptoms of it does it sound just like what you all have in here the power supply??? the kids dad at first said tell go head and fix it and i said , this dont sound he trying to do it cheap.

I feel like he trying to make money and b/c i woman....... then later i told the kids dad i said i found stuff on the internet and then he started blaming me, i said hey i not the one said find somone one now and fast!! any inof is apprecaite thank guys for listeing to my story and trying to help me out.

thank you very much..... if any miss spelled words, sorry i dont have spelled check on here.... if you all have one, I couldnt find it..... thanks angel
post #68 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by angelina1982 View Post

hi everyone ... my quest.

Snipped


thank you very much.....

To get people to read this wall of mess you may want to edit your post and shorten your story. Keep the facts and leave out the fluff

Otherwise for quick and dirty advice, take back your TV, have a friend remove the part that's pictured above, then bring that part to any electronics repair shop and ask them for an estimate for how much they would charge to replace the "bulged" and any "defective looking" capacitors (those barrel looking things in the picture, if the tips are bulged, or leaking, then they are defective). You LIKELY would get the cheapest repair if you can follow my instructions and have a knowledgeable friend to assist you with disassembling the electronics. With any luck you may have a friend who is actually capable of repairing/replacing the defective capacitors, and if you do then direct that friend to this discussion thread, and don't be cheap, offer this friend some compensation for his troubles.

Good luck either way.



Quote:
Originally Posted by jasnhrpr View Post

post #69 of 204
I purchased a dead Vizio VP322 at a garage sale yesterday. Found this forum last night and took the TV apart and found the board with C241 and C238 bulging. It looks to me like someone has already replaced C231, C234 and C236. So I got it all put back together and it is still not working. Are there any fuses or ways to check to see if the power is getting from here to there? I need to troubleshoot it because I don't see anymore that are defective. I replaced the (2) 470uF10V caps with 470uF35V ones. From what I understand according to this thread, the wattage makes no difference.
I have no idea where to go from here. Please help me
post #70 of 204
Hi,

I too, have a dead VP322. I pulled the board and only noticed 1 bulging 3300uF cap. So I ordered 2 -3300s 2-10V 1000uFs and 2- 25V 1000uFs. I replaced the 1 3300uF cap and the TV wouldn't power up. So I replaced the other 5 I have bought with the same result.

Questions:

1. Do I have to put the whole set back together before I test(due to grounding) or can I just plug it in and test it with the cover off face down on the table?

2. I assume that there must be other bad caps on the board that are not evident - correct? So just try replacing all?

Thanks for the help.

-Rick
post #71 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybert View Post

Hi,

I too, have a dead VP322. I pulled the board and only noticed 1 bulging 3300uF cap. So I ordered 2 -3300s 2-10V 1000uFs and 2- 25V 1000uFs. I replaced the 1 3300uF cap and the TV wouldn't power up. So I replaced the other 5 I have bought with the same result.

Questions:

1. Do I have to put the whole set back together before I test(due to grounding) or can I just plug it in and test it with the cover off face down on the table?

2. I assume that there must be other bad caps on the board that are not evident - correct? So just try replacing all?

Thanks for the help.

-Rick

I tested mine with the back off. Just be careful.

I replaced these five and it fixed my problem. Does the Visio logo light up when plugged in?

I Had to order 1 of these 1000uf 10v Capacitors Part # P5521-ND

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...521-nd&x=0&y=0

2 of these 1000UF 25V Part #P5544-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...4-ND&x=20&y=33

AND 2 of these 3300uf 10v capacitors Part # P12735-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...735-nd&x=0&y=0
post #72 of 204
Thanks for the replay.

No, I do not get the Vizio light on. I guess I'll try replacing the other caps although I know it could be something else. Actually, the only obvious cap was 1 of the 3300uFs. There could be just that one that is under stress that hasn't been replaced - correct?

-Rick
post #73 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybert View Post

Thanks for the replay.

No, I do not get the Vizio light on. I guess I'll try replacing the other caps although I know it could be something else. Actually, the only obvious cap was 1 of the 3300uFs. There could be just that one that is under stress that hasn't been replaced - correct?

-Rick

I would appear the power supply board is bad. I would just replace all five caps and see what happens.
post #74 of 204
Thanks for the reply DoubleEagle.

I just ohm'd out the fuses and discovered a blown 4A 250V one. Does anyone know if this should be a slow-blow, normal or does it matter? I'm sure this should bring my issues to a close. I'll let you know how it turns out once I've replaced it.

Thanks,

-Rick
post #75 of 204
Hello everyone!

I am in need of some direction. I have a Vizzio 322 that I purchased about 18 months ago. Over the last month it has started to shut off on it's own after 1-2 hours randomly, I would turn it back on and it would normally run just fine from there on. Over the last few days now it shuts off within minutes of turning it back on, now just last night night it shuts off within seconds of turning it back on.... Well after turning it back on about 30 times in row in a 5 min span I gave up and did a search and found this thread.

I pulled the power board and to my surprise - I can't find a single cap that is leaking or swelled. Everything looks perfect...hmmm

So should I replace the same 4-5 caps that are outlined in this thread? Or replace all of them? Or could it be anything else? Any suggestions or help is appreciated!

Thanks
Bret
post #76 of 204
hey so im having the same problems, blown caps and all that. I replaced the 4 blown caps on my tv put it all back together and nothing. i click on the power button and the tv makes a click and the orange light turns white breifly and back to orange with nothing on screen. any advice on what i may have done wrong?
Thanks rob
post #77 of 204
Could the polarity of the capacitors be reversed? If they check out fine, then perhaps a new power board would solve the problem.

Just wanted to say thanks to this board. It helped me rescue my VP322. It suffered the pop of death a few months back. With the instructions of this board, I replace seven capacitors and the tv is up and running again.
post #78 of 204
All,

I have a similar issue. One of the capacitors on the board was shot, however one of the resistors also burnt out. Unfortunately I can't read the size of the resistor (the color stripes are all gone due to the burn out). Can anyone tell me the size of the resistor (or the color bands) that is @ R806 on the board? This would really help me out A LOT!

Thanks for all of the work you guys have done, this will hopefully solve my problem!
post #79 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehern99 View Post

Could the polarity of the capacitors be reversed? If they check out fine, then perhaps a new power board would solve the problem.

It is unlikely that the polarity of the capacitors would be reversed. Generally, if you reverse the polarity of an electrolytic capacitor, it will explode, much like a firecracker going off. This happened to me many years ago and it scared the crap out of me!
post #80 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by bjgrig View Post

All,

I have a similar issue. One of the capacitors on the board was shot, however one of the resistors also burnt out. Unfortunately I can't read the size of the resistor (the color stripes are all gone due to the burn out). Can anyone tell me the size of the resistor (or the color bands) that is @ R806 on the board? This would really help me out A LOT!

Thanks for all of the work you guys have done, this will hopefully solve my problem!

One thing you could try would be so ask the sellers on eBay that have the board listed what that resistor is. Perhaps you will find someone nice enough to tell you. There are lots of boards listed there.
post #81 of 204
Ordered the caps from DigiKey online, paid $25 for the overnight. Since I have no confidence in my soldering, I paid store to do it for $40. I took out the power board myself and brought it in. I too, was left with a few extra screws. Better than paying the $65 diagnostic fee plus the $150 estimate to fix it. Thanks everyone, especially those that posted pictures. It made soooooo easy.
post #82 of 204
My capacitors that are the smallest are listed as 470UF and are 10v. W1C PET. Anyone know what the part # for these capacitors are? Will order parts today and hope to have this fixed by mid week thanks guys!
post #83 of 204
FYI everyone, the digikey part # for the 470UF is P-13118-ND
post #84 of 204
I replaced 5 capacitors on the board and my set it working like new!!! Hats off to you guys, my total in parts from Digikey was 9.13 shipped! Soldering was a snap (you will need a solder pump or a copper braid to get the solder off the board.....I had a 15 year old ghetto solder pump that I wasnt sure still had any suction left and it worked like a champ. Took me about 10 snaps per each socket but I didnt care, got the blown ones out and the new ones in).

Not to mention, I think I set the record here- NO SCREWS LEFT OVER AND NONE MISSING! LOL!!! Overall, you have the perimeter screws, the back plate screws and then the bottom stand/speaker screws. Just use 3 ziplocs and separate the different screws for those areas. *NOTE* YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE LITERALLY EVERY SINGLE SCREW YOU SEE ON THE BACK OF THAT TV, EVERY SINGLE ONE. THERE IS NO SHORTCUT OR SECTION TO LEAVE ON, THEY ALL HAVE TO COME OFF. ALSO IMPORTANT--***WEAR GLOVES*** AS WHEN YOU GET THE METAL BACK OFF THOSE EDGES ARE SHARP AND I CUT MY HAND 2 TIMES ON THAT THING.

For any newbies reading this, you can totally do this. A solder pump looks like a fat syringe that you press in the plunger and it locks, you put the tip up to the solder joint, heat up the solder and when it melts you click a button and it sucks up when the plunger release up with a quick snap. Soldering the new ones in is stupid easy, my 8 year old did one! You just melt solder in the joint.

There is a great 1 minute video on this on youtube, go there and type in "How to Solder : Removing Solder" and watch that. All you need to worry about is really how to get the solder off the board.

Stoked I got this done, my wife and kids are dancing around the house, daddy is superman today!

Peace out!
post #85 of 204
I like others here acquired a vp322 cheaply.

Besides the bulged capacitors I found a few components with a white gluey substance on them. Is this a glue to hold the components in place or is this a horribly burst capacitor ?

Only reason I ask is cause none of the other pics posted show this glue.

Also would it be a good idea to just replace all the capacitors while I have the board out since they're cheap ?

See pictures.



post #86 of 204
It seems that there is a design flaw for as why so many capacitors are poping.

I dont have the schematics nor a visio to test with... but I would recommend using larger capacitors and a wee higher voltage range.

Example... Popped capacitor is 25v 2200uf replace with 35v 3300uf

Note: Replacement capacitors by Panasonic come in different flavors. Long Life, High temprature, and GP.

I would use the High temprature over long life, as temps inside a plasma display is fairly hot.

No matter how long lifed your capacitor is, the capacitance will decrease with heat and along with life span.

I would also check the diodes out... as I have seen for myself that capacitors don't just pop on their own. A diode is more common to be defective and allow reverse voltage to leak into the circuit, thus causing stress to the capactors if voltage goes beyond their rating.

An old skool way to make builtin lifespan is to perposefully use lower rating capacitors or inadiquate cooling/venting.

To see the Visio model have soo many like issues with the power supply makes me think it is more than just all them capacitors.

PS Remember the larger the Capacitor the louder the pop.
post #87 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Tech View Post
It seems that there is a design flaw for as why so many capacitors are poping.

I dont have the schematics nor a visio to test with... but I would recommend using larger capacitors and a wee higher voltage range.

Example... Popped capacitor is 25v 2200uf replace with 35v 3300uf

Note: Replacement capacitors by Panasonic come in different flavors. Long Life, High temprature, and GP.
No, do not replace capacitors with a higher uf rating. A higher voltage is ok - but a higher uf (microfarad) rating could ultimately alter the circuit in ways that the original designers didn't intend; especially if you're not versed in electronics and don't have the original circuit diagram available. Stick with the recommended parts in this thread and things will work out fine!
post #88 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlacomb View Post

No, do not replace capacitors with a higher uf rating. A higher voltage is ok - but a higher uf (microfarad) rating could ultimately alter the circuit in ways that the original designers didn't intend; especially if you're not versed in electronics and don't have the original circuit diagram available. Stick with the recommended parts in this thread and things will work out fine!

Actually you have that all reversed.

I do have an engineering degree, without any circuit diagram I am only guessing to the possible cause for so many capacitors to fail. I am just adding what I see would help long term and may help even better.

Go a head and shoot me down, but I know how to make things better from an engineering level.

It is best to have the voltage rating on capacitors close to the rated voltage. If you use too high of the voltage rating the capacitance lowers.

I bumped the ratings because the issue may be just the weak power transformer. Blooming comes to mind... After all to see that many capacitors fail in the power supply without having a switching transistor fail, makes me wonder how weak the transformer is compaired to the rating of the plasma panel.

With a weak power transformer the voltage rails will fluctuate dramatically causing the capacitors to be used as reserved power. Thus making them act like batteries not as filters.

Capacitors should never be used in that way, as they will fail sooner and cause stress and possible damage to other components.

Rule of thumb on power... a power supply should yeld 150% of the rated total power consumed by the components during the highest level of use.

Many manufacturers fail at that... and give only 75% to 90%.

You can use higher rating capacitance to filter power supplies... as many higher grade equipement has been doing it for years and charging a good price for better rated capacitors and stronger power transformers.

With any electronic equipment, the power supply is the weakest link period.
post #89 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgerber2 View Post


Besides the bulged capacitors I found a few components with a white gluey substance on them. Is this a glue to hold the components in place or is this a horribly burst capacitor?

Only reason I ask is cause none of the other pics posted show this glue.


See:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjp444 View Post


The white goop is silicone applied at the factory for stability, that's not a sign of failure.

post #90 of 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomwil View Post

See:

It is goop to hold em in place.

You can remove from the tops with a razor knife.

Most of the time I see it under the cap so you really have to pull in them and makes it a bit hard to get them out.

The tops should be flat... another thing is to look at the plastic lable around the metal cap. If it seems split or does not cover around the top edge. It will be bad too.
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