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Samsung PN5xB650 Owner Thread - Page 157

post #4681 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gib View Post

Received my 58B650 today. It does buzz a bit but probably not enough to send it back. This is my first plasma and I understand all of them buzz a little bit. My wife said she wouldn't have noticed it if I hadn't pointed it out.

The thing that bothers me the most is the blacks aren't as dark as I expected. In fact they don't look as dark as my Sammy LN46A650 LCD when I compared some Fios TV with dark scenes.

I don't have a blu-ray player yet so I can't check a blu-ray. I did view some OTA HD and the picture does look great but blacks are still not as dark as I hoped. Do they get better over time after the phosphors age? Any techniques for improving them? I am running settings based on CNET and Tom Huffman's reviews so not running on Dynamic or anything.

First, its important to understand that the blacks will never look as good as the Samsung LCDs in a room with any kind of light because the plasmas don't have the reflective black glass Samsung uses on its LCDs. The upside to this is that shadow detail is much better, and dark scenes are much less muddy.

As far as improving black level, it does seem to improve as it breaks in yes. I can also tell you that using a high contrast (including dynamic contrast and the dynamic and standard picture modes) will kill your black levels. The whole screen gets so bright and hot that it takes hours for the black level to reach as black as the tv is capable of. For OTA HD, these are the settings I've been using:

Mode: Movie
Cell Light: 10
Contrast: 80
Brightness: 51
Sharpness: 20
Color: 50
Tint: 50/50

Advanced Settings:
Black tone: off
Dynamic contrast: off
Gamma: 0
Color space: auto
White balance (defaults)
Flesh tone: 0
edge enhancement: off

Picture options:
Color tone: Warm2
Size: screen fit
Digital nr: off
Film mode: off

Note that if you've been running contrast in the 90's, it'll take hours before you'll see improved black levels with this lower contrast.
post #4682 of 5062
Those are almost the exact settings I have although initially Contrast was 95 but then I lowered it to 80.

Well the plasma also has pretty reflective glass so I figured it would be similar to the LCD. It is interesting that the screen itself is not as black as the LCD when they are both turned off. The plasma is grayer.
post #4683 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by careful View Post

Sorry if this has been asked a millions times before, but I haven't followed the thread and only browsed through the last few pages to see if this was covered. Is the Cinema Smooth glitch mentioned in the CNET review still present? I'm looking for a new TV and I can't say I'm too impressed with the 2010 models. 650 seems like a solid choice, but the only concern I would have is that 24p reset glitch.

Mine has a Feb 2010 Mexico build and Firmware 1017 and it still has the glitch although the Brightness/black levels now restore with a simple toggling of the CS option. No reset or restart required. I have measured the Black level change on my set as a rise of +60% with CS. You can dial back the Brightness with CS but you lose some shadow detail. Actually with BluRay this is still not much of a problem if you prefer the CS, unless you are a stickler for every last drop of detail. Also, with 1080P@60Hz the unit displays just fine with no observable flicker. So flip a coin.
post #4684 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gib View Post

Those are almost the exact settings I have although initially Contrast was 95 but then I lowered it to 80.

Yeah, a contrast of 95 will practically double your black level because the screen becomes so illuminated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gib View Post

Well the plasma also has pretty reflective glass so I figured it would be similar to the LCD. It is interesting that the screen itself is not as black as the LCD when they are both turned off. The plasma is grayer.

Exactly, and that naturally grey screen is why blacks don't look as good on the plasma when any kind of light in the room. But again, that's also why the LCDs that use those screens have pisspoor shadow detail. I sold my LN46B650 LCD in December and replaced it with the PN50B650 plasma, so I've gone through the exact same scenario you are right now. To be honest, even in a completely dark room I don't know if the plasmas blacks look any better than the A and B 650 LCDs, but I've come to terms with that given all the other improvements that made the trade-off worth it IMO.
post #4685 of 5062
If you have your b650 connected to the net wirelessly, how so? I also have finally broken out the 360 and PS3 (theyve been sitting brand new in their boxes for months) so id like to tie them into the whole thing as well. I do already have a wireless network in place. so my question is what equipment, router and otherwise, is best for fast gaming and movie watching over a wi fi network?

sorry for the slightly off topic post. If you feel its too far off from the TV convo feel free to PM me. i just dont feel like going into another forum and going through all the newbie sh*t to get an honest answer from owners.
post #4686 of 5062
Posted a few pages back in this thread --- Buy this dongle:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-025-_-Product

It is the only non-Samsung dongle with the exact same chipset for a good bit less.

I assume you already have an N router in place so you should be good to go. If you are looking to upgrade then check out the Rosewill N router or Actiontec N models. I am not a gamer so I'm still using an Actiontec G. Haven't tried the streaming video yet but don't expect decent results without an upgrade to N.
post #4687 of 5062
Does anyone else B650 makes a poping noise while being on warm 3, when your watching Blu ray movies?
post #4688 of 5062
I had the tv for a month and one of my kids scratched the screen,Iam freaking out is the screen replaceable? or is it one fixed piece.I can't see the scratch when its on but I know its there.and getting rid of the kids is not an option.
post #4689 of 5062
Man, breaking the tv in really kills the buzz (lol) you have for the tv since it takes so long. I want to watch The Matrix in blu so bad but its too soon to have those black bars up for 2 hours...oh well
post #4690 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClarkeBar View Post

Posted a few pages back in this thread --- Buy this dongle:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-025-_-Product

It is the only non-Samsung dongle with the exact same chipset for a good bit less.

I assume you already have an N router in place so you should be good to go. If you are looking to upgrade then check out the Rosewill N router or Actiontec N models. I am not a gamer so I'm still using an Actiontec G. Haven't tried the streaming video yet but don't expect decent results without an upgrade to N.

He has to use a router than is compatible with XBOX Live though. If he gets a router and he can't get his NAT settings open on XBOX Live or PSN, he won't be able to play with a lot of people.
post #4691 of 5062
Good to know. See all of the things I need to know in order to game properly and fully. That's probably why I haven't joined the club.
post #4692 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClarkeBar View Post

Good to know. See all of the things I need to know in order to game properly and fully. That's probably why I haven't joined the club.

Well, you don't HAVE to buy a router that is XBOX Live compatible. It's just that if you don't, you may end up with a router where you can't get your NAT settings to "open" which can lead to you not being able to join sessions with various other people due to a router conflict. Basically, if you buy a router that is XBOX Live compatible (should say so on the box) then you know for sure that you can get the NAT settings to "open" and you will be compatible with everyone.
post #4693 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClarkeBar View Post

Posted a few pages back in this thread --- Buy this dongle:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-025-_-Product

It is the only non-Samsung dongle with the exact same chipset for a good bit less.

I assume you already have an N router in place so you should be good to go. If you are looking to upgrade then check out the Rosewill N router or Actiontec N models. I am not a gamer so I'm still using an Actiontec G. Haven't tried the streaming video yet but don't expect decent results without an upgrade to N.

Cool...do you use this one? I see its actually half the price of samsungs version and I need 3 of em. I've said it 1000 times I don't mind spending money but I don't like to waste it. So if the roswell works as well as the samsung ill get them. Thanks for the info.
post #4694 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by mistaforty View Post

Cool...do you use this one? I see its actually half the price of samsungs version and I need 3 of em. I've said it 1000 times I don't mind spending money but I don't like to waste it. So if the roswell works as well as the samsung ill get them. Thanks for the info.

Yep. Works like a charm.

I researched Samsung alternatives long before I bought the set and this is the only one with the same exact chipset as the LinkStick. Other Rosewill models even with an N listing in the model are not correct. I see NewEgg has started lowering the price again. Great deal with low shipping.

Do bear in mind what XFistsClenchedX offered about router compatibility with your gaming units.
post #4695 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by XFistsClenchedX View Post

Well, you don't HAVE to buy a router that is XBOX Live compatible. It's just that if you don't, you may end up with a router where you can't get your NAT settings to "open" which can lead to you not being able to join sessions with various other people due to a router conflict. Basically, if you buy a router that is XBOX Live compatible (should say so on the box) then you know for sure that you can get the NAT settings to "open" and you will be compatible with everyone.

Thanks for the info.. I was like a router is a router, but obviously not. Figured it was just marketing. But I just bought call of duty and planned to play online so that is relevant info. Last question then. Will the same router work for the pS3 and am I right in assuming that the router won't matter to the TV?
Again sorry for the off topic.
post #4696 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by mistaforty View Post

Thanks for the info.. I was like a router is a router, but obviously not. Figured it was just marketing. But I just bought call of duty and planned to play online so that is relevant info. Last question then. Will the same router work for the pS3 and am I right in assuming that the router won't matter to the TV?
Again sorry for the off topic.

I'd assume that if it would work for XBOX Live, it would work with PSN as well. Although I don't play on PSN so I couldn't tell you for sure. Here is a list of some compatible and incompatible routers.

http://support.xbox.com/support/en/u...equipment.aspx
post #4697 of 5062
I played some PS3 today for the first time on the T.V. after 50 hours of break in (couldn't wait anymore :P) but I couldn't find the "game mode", only Movie, Eco, Dynamic and Standard. How do I enable it? There was a noticable delay coming from my CRT. Also, can you guys post your Game mode settings, I had someones saved in a firefox tab but lost is somehow. Thanks!
post #4698 of 5062
That's not where game mode is. It's in the part of the menu that looks like a gear or a cog, if I remember correctly.
post #4699 of 5062
Thanks, I found milin's settings too (as of november). 50 more hours til I put my regular settings in!
post #4700 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1080pee View Post

Thanks, I found milin's settings too (as of november). 50 more hours til I put my regular settings in!

You'll probably want to keep contrast low for a long time when playing games.

I'm probably around the 500 hour mark and im still getting plenty of image retention.
post #4701 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by XFistsClenchedX View Post

You'll probably want to keep contrast low for a long time when playing games.

I'm probably around the 500 hour mark and im still getting plenty of image retention.

Jeez, that will take me forever. I'll probably up it by 200 hours than, I don't mind some temporary retention.

Also, I can't believe PIP disables Game mode, that basically negates the feature for me. Unbelievable.
post #4702 of 5062
I found out that I do indeed suffer from the Cinema Smooth bug. In certain films at certain parts of the film, I get annoying flashing. It's subtle, but noticeable. There is a rise in black levels as well, but the only thing that bothers me is that stupid flashing.
post #4703 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrTAPOUT View Post

your settings are awesome. Here are some pics I took using them










Best picture quality I've seen in my whole life, while using Levels Wizard and setting it to limited black levels.
you gotta be freaking kidding me!!!

Forgot the settings lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by XFistsClenchedX View Post

Which settings are u talking about?

Quote:
Originally Posted by swanjm5 View Post

I've had over 300 hours of break in now, and calibrated my TV using the DVE HD Basics DVD. My settings below are damn near perfect to my eye based on all of the test patterns provided.

Warning: Every TV is different. I used Pastor's and Hudman's settings both of whom said they are perfect on their TV's, however, i needed to adjust these with the DVE to get them more accurate for my particular set (especially the color space):

Mode: Movie
Cell Light: 10
Contrast: 95
Brightness 52
Sharpness 7
Color: 50
Tint (G/R) G50/R50

Picture Options:
Color Tone Warm 2
Digital NR: Off
HDMI Black Level: Low
Film mode off

Advanced Settings:
Black Tone: off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Gamma: -1
Color Space: Custom
Red 56,0,0
Green 0,53,0
Blue: 0,0,50
Yellow: 48,58,0
Cyan: 0,48,57
Magenta: 57,0,51
White Balance - all set at 25
Fleshtone: 0
Edge Enhancement: Off

If you are watching your multimedia on a PC, you need to follow this.
after setting up the TV.

Download Levels Wizard set your black white scale to 16-235 and just keep hitting next.
after that's done you need to restart your PC.

Download MPC HC and go to options > output > under directshow video select EVR.

you gotta try this if you are on a HTPC
post #4704 of 5062
Which settings are u talking about?
post #4705 of 5062
Hi Guys,

I received another request for the Service manual so have uploaded it to the free large file e-mail site again. Link should be good for 30 days this time.

http://emaillargefile.com/d/KF4J8BNHUQO

Paul
post #4706 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by XFistsClenchedX View Post

Which settings are u talking about?



I believe the post was referencing these settings:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post17079222
post #4707 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClarkeBar View Post

I believe the post was referencing these settings:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post17079222

Everytime I see calibrated settings posted for this set, I see contrast over 90. However, when I nudge mine past 82-83(Dynamic Contrast off), I feel like its searing my eyeballs. I currently have it set at 70 with Dynamic Contrast set at low.
post #4708 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1080pee View Post

Man, breaking the tv in really kills the buzz (lol) you have for the tv since it takes so long. I want to watch The Matrix in blu so bad but its too soon to have those black bars up for 2 hours...oh well

From day 1, I was watching 2.35:1 content as well as playing games. Just run your TV at reasonable settings and you should be just fine. If you're that nervous, just white wash the image a few minutes after usage.
post #4709 of 5062
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClarkeBar View Post

Hi Guys,

I received another request for the Service manual so have uploaded it to the free large file e-mail site again. Link should be good for 30 days this time.

http://emaillargefile.com/d/KF4J8BNHUQO

Paul

Thanks for posting that.

The White Balance settings listed in the Service Manual. These are factory set to those values, correct? Is it safe to say I can plug in the values listed in the service manual into my set to reset them back to default?

I have the 50" model, but I doubt the settings differ for WB.
post #4710 of 5062
Yes they are factory and apply to any size in the B650 series.

I did notice a few discrepancies and differences with some items ... and some small sections of the SM which are in the set are not listed with the S Manual. But overall you should be able to plug them in without doing a full reset. I actually have done a factory reset 2-3 times for different reasons, both before and after having the manual, and the only hard data you really lose is the purchase date. Of course all personal settings changes made since purchase are reset but I would hope most folks know by now to have a written record of any tweaks they might have made.
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