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Aton HDR44 HD over Cat5 - A Quick Review - Page 3

post #61 of 108
12/7/10 at 12:43pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbauer25 View Post

Pressing the Watch TV activity runs through the following tasks:
1) Turn on TV
2) Turn on Receiver
3) Turn on DVR
4) Set HDR44 to Zone 1
5) Set HDR44 to Source 1

If I haven't used a Zone/Source in some time, the activity fails to display the Zone1-Source1 combination.

Do you have any tips on how to fix this? Recommend input/interkey delay settings on the remote?

You don't need the Zone 1 portion - that is only used for the external IR input on the back. From the IR receivers in each zone, you just use the source 1-4 code. That may be your issue...

As for interference, if the blue "talkback" LED is lit, it's seeing IR - if you're not performing an IR action, that would be interference. If the light is not on, then there's no interference.

Jeff
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post #62 of 108
12/7/10 at 2:39pm
Thanks Jeff. Will try removing the Zone 1 portion. I'm not seeing the blue LED lit other than when performing an IR action, so interference may not be the issue.
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post #63 of 108
12/8/10 at 8:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Also make sure you have the IR emitter plugged into the correct source-specific IR output - the first jack on the back of the unit is the global output, which caused me to get some of them wrong as I was plugging them in blind from the front and counting jacks with my finger :-) ...

Jeff

Followup on my issue. It appears that I have a problem with the DirecTV HR24 itself. I can not get it to respond to any IR commands (even standing right in front of it). My belief is that the Aton unit is functioning normally.

I have tried RBR and "pull the plug" methods of resetting my HR24 with no success yet.
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post #64 of 108
12/8/10 at 10:20am
I'm ready to pull the trigger on this unit. Where did you guys purchase your units? I'm not looking for pricing info just a reputable dealer. Has anyone used A1 Components?

Thanks Dave
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post #65 of 108
12/9/10 at 10:05am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaument View Post

I'm ready to pull the trigger on this unit. Where did you guys purchase your units? I'm not looking for pricing info just a reputable dealer. Has anyone used A1 Components?

Thanks Dave

Yes, that's where I got both of my units. Note that they are specifically mentioned by Aton as an "un-authorized dealer" and therefore they will likely give you grief about warranty. Plan accordingly.

Jeff
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post #66 of 108
12/9/10 at 12:31pm
RANT - Why do companies do that. Sell through a chain but say they are unauthorized? how did they get the product in the first place? What a crock. . . .

So if I believe Aton, A1 sells scraped off serial #s:
Please note, this is incorrect. When you order product from them, serial numbers are almost always scraped off, and therefore NOT factory new product.
What are some of the user experiences here? Do the products look to be factory new? Any issues with serial#'s?

Thanks!
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post #67 of 108
12/9/10 at 8:04pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frostykev View Post

RANT - Why do companies do that. Sell through a chain but say they are unauthorized? how did they get the product in the first place? What a crock. . . .

I understand the desire to protect the dealer channel, but for this type of product, I'm not sure who they're protecting. (RANT: Same for URC!) Any 'enthusiast' that knows enough to want the product probably didn't want or need a dealer's help. In the case of the Aton, they've made a terrifically simple product to install and setup, and since it lacks things like RS-232 that make the product undesireable for large/custom/integrated installers, I think Aton is over-reacting.

If I was a dealer and some poor lost guy bought a matrix switch and now needed help, I'd be more than happy to offer a house call ($) and gain a customer through knowledge and service...

Quote:


So if I believe Aton, A1 sells scraped off serial #s What are some of the user experiences here? Do the products look to be factory new? Any issues with serial#'s?

In Aton's defense, there certainly is that kind of behavior IN THE INDUSTRY. But my units, from A1, were drop-shipped from a US distributor, so new, sealed, in the box.

But let's please end the discussion about where to buy, I don't feel it's appropriate to get into reseller/internet-source discussions, certainly on a forum that is run by a dealer/installer/retailer whom we do business with and trust...

Jeff
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post #68 of 108
12/9/10 at 10:36pm
Agreed and thanks for the information.

For me I'm struggling with HDMI not being ready for distribution vs the need to do something now, almost bridge to the future. . . Whatever I do now needs to last 2-3 years then I can rethink what to do for future deployment, hoping whatever I have behind drywall is adequate.

One other thing, did you direct terminate the Catx? Or did you do a patch at the main source side?
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post #69 of 108
12/10/10 at 5:55am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frostykev View Post

For me I'm struggling with HDMI not being ready for distribution vs the need to do something now, almost bridge to the future. . . Whatever I do now needs to last 2-3 years then I can rethink what to do for future deployment, hoping whatever I have behind drywall is adequate.

I don't think you'd have any issue with component meeting your needs for 2-3 years. First, since most delivered content is 1080i with DD5.1 at best anyway (or sourced from film, not originated as 60-frame 1080p), there's no immediate loss in video quality. And quite frankly, doing a side-to-side comparison of HDMI / Component on my sets I didn't see any obvious difference.

Second, the cost of HDMI distribution will likely come down significantly as HDBaseT attempts to drive this into the mainstream. The money you save by not buying a more expensive solution today probably pays for a future HDMI system.

And last, the scare over the "analog sunset" is easy dealt with - buy a BD player now. There, done. For any 'main' viewing areas, I always recommend a local BD player anyway, since you then get the advanced audio codecs (DTS-MA), 1080p native, and you don't have to run somewhere to insert the disc. Since advanced audio support is one of the most troublesome parts of HDMI distribution, you avoid all of that, too.

Quote:
One other thing, did you direct terminate the Catx? Or did you do a patch at the main source side?

I directly terminated at both ends as my wiring closet was set up for A/V-over-cat5 in mind. But I don't think you'll have any trouble with patch cables, either. In the rooms that I just expanded the system into, I used a 1' patch cable from keystone jacks shoved back into the wall instead of cutting them off...

Jeff
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post #70 of 108
12/15/10 at 7:08am
Got it....works great, the only issue is a Tivo remote address problem. I have two TiVo's in the local zone and you need to use separate addresses for them, I have a 1-2 switch on the Glo-Remote and that resolves the local issue....but creates issues on the remote zones. Dave
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post #71 of 108
12/15/10 at 12:55pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaument View Post
Got it....works great, the only issue is a Tivo remote address problem. I have two TiVo's in the local zone and you need to use separate addresses for them, I have a 1-2 switch on the Glo-Remote and that resolves the local issue....but creates issues on the remote zones. Dave
Actually, that's easy. I assume by local you mean the TiVo(s) are both located with the Aton and a display. Set each TiVo to one of the specific IR addresses (1 or 2), and use your TiVo remote in that room, also programmed with the specific TiVo IR addresses.

But in the zones, set the TiVo remote (or the universal) to use TiVo IR address 0. With the Aton IR routing, the signal will only go to one of the two units (whichever is being watched), and all TiVo units, regardless of their IR address, will respond to IR address 0.

(and yes, hooray for TiVo for doing that right!)

Jeff
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post #72 of 108
12/16/10 at 12:59pm
Thanks for the reply, my other TiVo remotes were set up as either 1 or 2. I just reset the remotes to zero and it worked prefectly.
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post #73 of 108
12/16/10 at 5:32pm
WOW they ship pretty quick. I'm thinking of getting it as my Christmas gift to myself and from my wife. . .
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post #74 of 108
1/16/11 at 2:59pm
Another question. How well do the optical-cable converters work, specifically concerned with seeing more and more optical outputs rather than digital coax outputs for sound. Example several of the Blue Ray dvd players only have R/L and Optical, the Roku device, R/L and Optical.

Anyone using a optical converter with this box?

My plan, I would like two locations to be able to receive digital audio to the receiver for decoding, while 2 locations receive R/L audio.

Planned Sources will be:
TivoHD
Roku (maybe)
SageTV
unknown, depends on what we use most

Planned rooms:
Living room (R/L and Digital decoded audio)
Master - R/L
Office - R/L
Theater (someday) Digital decoded

Thoughts?
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post #75 of 108
1/16/11 at 6:43pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frostykev View Post

Anyone using a optical converter with this box?

Yep, I'm using one with one of my DirecTV boxes. The cheap ($20 common on eBay) one I have works, but I think it's putting out a weak signal compared to 'normal', as that connection is more susceptible to interference - I'll get pops/clicks if I use a dimmer in one of the zones, sometimes by using the IR repeater, etc.

That, in conjunction with my B&J pre-pro tending to be very sensitive as well. I need to try another, higher-quality optical/coax converter and see if the problem just goes away. (thanks for the reminder that I actually need to try that!)

Jeff
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post #76 of 108
1/17/11 at 5:20pm
I am about to pull the trigger on the HDR44KT as it seems to do everything I want at a reasonable price (as good as you can get from local distributors at 'cost'). Anyways, one stupid question (I think) and another tip request -
1) Can someone please confirm that this indeed is a matrix switch and that you can be viewing different sources in different rooms at the same time? Is it true 4x4 or something less?
2) Folks have said the IR bugs get interference from screens - aside from mounting the IR bug away from the TV has anyone overcome this?

Thanks in advance.

-- Matt
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post #77 of 108
1/17/11 at 5:30pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehorizons View Post

1) Can someone please confirm that this indeed is a matrix switch and that you can be viewing different sources in different rooms at the same time? Is it true 4x4 or something less?

Yes. Definition of a "matrix switch", but never hurts to double check... I added that info to the top post for clarity.

Quote:


2) Folks have said the IR bugs get interference from screens - aside from mounting the IR bug away from the TV has anyone overcome this?

Yes. Mounting the receiver elsewhere *may* help, but the solution I used in the one zone I needed to fix I used a Xantech LCD-proof receiver in place of the standard one, and wired it to the IR in screw jacks (since the Xantech model doesn't come with the 3.5mm plug attached).

Note that I only had problems with CFL-backlit LCD screens. The LED-backlit unit(s) don't give me any problems with the included IR receivers.

Jeff
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post #78 of 108
1/30/11 at 12:48pm
Well, I finally got the time to install mine, and it's not working properly(i think). I'm not getting any indication of a connected source. I have a dvr connected, and I'm not getting any blue lights on the front of the HDR44. Time to try a few more sources and all that fun stuff.

I'm guessing a call to ATON will be in order for tomorrow.
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post #79 of 108
1/30/11 at 1:16pm
Make sure to connect one of the outlets over the two cat5e/6 cables and plug in an IR eye. Then use the remote to actually call switch to the source you have plugged in. It doesn't turn blue until the source is switched to by one of the outputs...
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post #80 of 108
1/30/11 at 1:26pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeckoFiend View Post

Well, I finally got the time to install mine, and it's not working properly(i think). I'm not getting any indication of a connected source. I have a dvr connected, and I'm not getting any blue lights on the front of the HDR44. Time to try a few more sources and all that fun stuff.

I'm guessing a call to ATON will be in order for tomorrow.

The blue lights indicate that a zone is ON, not that a source is connected. In order to turn the zone on, you need to use the remote to select a source (which will turn the zone on) FROM the wall-plate IR receiver. There is NO IR receiver on the unit itself.

In any zone, are you seeing the 'talkback' blue LED on the IR receiver?

Also check that you've got the 2 Cat5 cables connected to the correct inputs (not swapped A/B or between zones).

If all that checks out, I'd suggest temporarily hooking up a couple of RJ45 patch cables from the unit to a wallplate, display and IR receiver and see if that works. Also, ensure your source(s) are producing component output - hooking a display to the component loop output would guarantee that the Aton unit is seeing a signal.

Hope that helps,

Jeff
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post #81 of 108
1/30/11 at 1:33pm
oooooooh, shiny


I thought those were for the sources. Now it's working. WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
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post #82 of 108
2/20/11 at 12:11pm
We have used the Aton since October and is was one of the best things I have purchased. Getting ready to purchase a second kit to expand TV capacity. Only thing is we typically don't shut off the zones on the ATON. Mostly using it for DirectTV so it's a lot easier just to turn TV/Source on and off. I wonder whether leaving the zones on all the time will adversely affect the life of the ATOn, but otherwise it has been great!
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post #83 of 108
2/20/11 at 1:42pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tds1 View Post

We have used the Aton since October and is was one of the best things I have purchased. Getting ready to purchase a second kit to expand TV capacity. Only thing is we typically don't shut off the zones on the ATON. Mostly using it for DirectTV so it's a lot easier just to turn TV/Source on and off. I wonder whether leaving the zones on all the time will adversely affect the life of the ATOn, but otherwise it has been great!

I leave all my zones on all the time for the same reason, and since the measured power consumption of the unit is lower (like .75W/zone) when the unit is active instead of in standby, I don't see any reason to believe it would shorten the life of the unit.

I can't explain why consumption is higher when a zone is off, but the total consumption of unit includes the wallplate receivers, which is probably where the difference comes in. The only thing I didn't measure was what happens to total consumption when you disconnect the wallplate.


Jeff
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post #84 of 108
2/20/11 at 9:02pm
I've got to second/third/fourth/whatever the props for the HDR44. I wrestled long and hard with what to get for my video distribution solution, which is no means super-complex but also certainly is not straightforward. I did a ton of research, and cost certainly was a concern, but really looked at everything from BOCS at the low-price end up thru the Monoprice 4x4 HDMI switch & baluns, to Intellix RG6 baluns, to higher-end HDMI switches and even Crestron/Control4 solutions. I talked to a few local integrators, and finally settled on getting the HRD44KT from Tri-Ed locally.

Feel free to PM me if anyone has specific questions, but all-in-all this thing works exactly as others have said, was super easy to install/manage/program, and the picture quality is excellent - no chance I see a difference side-by-side with HDMI. Briefly my whole-house setup is three rooms right now, with maybe three more to add in the next year (at which point I'll just get another to expand to 4x8), and all my equipment in a rack in a central closet. I wanted to send at a minimum two DirecTV HDDVRs to my home office and exercise room WITHOUT any component boxes in those rooms, make the wife happy with an easy to control system with a single URC remote, and have solid picture quality. This thing sorted all that with just two Cat5 runs, and even includes the IR routing which was also a plus for me.

In terms of downsides, the biggest one that isn't a problem for me right now but still might be soon is the lack of a RS-232 port for integration. Other than that, I really can't think of anything. I am really happy with this and appreciate everyone's comments as it definitely helped me make my decision.

Cheers,

Matt
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post #85 of 108
3/2/11 at 10:17am
Just a clarification, I DO have my cat5/6 cables terminated on patch panels, and it works beautifully.

Jeff, with the UR WR7, is there a button that can be programed to pull up the list on a DVR?
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post #86 of 108
3/2/11 at 1:48pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeckoFiend View Post

Just a clarification, I DO have my cat5/6 cables terminated on patch panels, and it works beautifully.

Jeff, with the UR WR7, is there a button that can be programed to pull up the list on a DVR?

I used the "FAV" (favorite channel) button, which is placed high on the remote, so it's easy to find, and I didn't need it either. I don't recall if that was the default mapping for my DVR, or if I had to learn the code...


Jeff
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post #87 of 108
3/7/11 at 9:20am
Anyone know what PIN number 8 on the cat 5/6 controls? Or for that matter, all of the PIN definitions. I tried hooking up another wallplate yesterday and could not get it to function. Cable tester showed that my PIN 8 on my CAT runs were not working. The plate does feel warm to the touch, but I am not getting any IR feedback from the eye.
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post #88 of 108
3/7/11 at 10:24am
hey good point on the temperature - all my wallplates get pretty hot. I am actually a little concerned about putting them into the wall, as a couple are exterior and I have mudrings. one is interior but I have Roxul there (good thing it is fireproof!). Probably won't be an issue, but figured I'd see if anyone had any problems, but will probably just replace the low voltage bracket with a full 1 gang box.
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post #89 of 108
3/7/11 at 11:19am
Thread Starter 
No idea on the pinouts, but did you try reversing the cables (use A for B, B for A - at both ends) and see if the behavior is any different? But if your cable tester is saying you've got a bad connection, you probably need to fix that... Some testers are very sensitive, though.

And yes, the wallplates are warm to the touch. Since they're powered from the head unit, and the head unit consumes ~40W total, including 4 wall plates, I don't think there's anything to be concerned about. It's probably better to have them in a mud ring than an enclosed box, too (since the heat dissipates easier).

Jeff
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post #90 of 108
9/4/11 at 9:07pm
I am building a new house. I see the last post was in March of 2011. Has there been any new technology for home distribution?
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