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Samsung PNXXB850 & PNXXB860 Owner's Discussion Thread - Page 71

post #2101 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Italia18 View Post

Hi, I've been following these forums for a while now and finally made an account. I hope you guys can take the time to read this and answer my questions.

Got a plasma a few weeks ago. I got the Samsung PN50B850. I've read many posts from this website and I've noticed a lot of users complaining about Image Retention with the 850/860.

I started breaking in this TV about 2 days after I've I got it. Turned the Contrast and Brightness below 50, Cell Light at 5, and mode set at Standard. I've been running this "break-in" dvd from my xbox 360.I've got almost 65hrs with just the DVD and probably 40-50hrs of normal TV watching/movies, while trying to avoid content that has logo's or black bars (almost every channel does).

Is this break-in thing over-hyped? Is it really necessary? I'm really paranoid and do not want to get any IR or worse, Burn-In (yes I know, I shouldn't have bought a Plasma then, but the quality of the picture is what made me got it). I've also been afraid to play games on it, and I love playing video games.(Fallout 3, NFS, Halo 3, COD, NHL). Only games I have that have no static images are Mirror's Edge, Dead Space, & Prince of Persia, but I haven't played any games yet.

Also afraid to watch some of my Blu-ray's, because almost all of my blu-rays have 2.40:1 ratio (black bars on top and bottom) and I don't want to stretch it to fill the screen to avoid IR.

If anyone who has or has ever owned a Plasma please give feedback or suggestions on this break-in procedure, and how long Video Games and movies with black-bars should be played on them? I know that Panasonic suggests at least 100hrs of break-in. Samsung does not. Most users say to break it in for 150-200hrs? Is that overkill?

Another question is about this pixel shift. Should I turn this off while using the break-in DVD? I'm asking this because I notice after about 2 min, there are (lines of) pixels turned off near the left and top side of the screen, and it gets larger after, and covers all sides of the screen. I'm hoping this is the pixel shift and not a faulty TV. Should I turn it off?, because I'm not really aging all of the pixels evenly with these hundreds of blank pixels around the boarder of my screen.

One more question if you guys don't mind, is about the Connection Error (606). My internet connection works fine, because the widgets work, but whenever I try to upgrade the firmware/software, I get this error. Also, my current firmware is 1016. I've heard people saying the latest is 1017, but is that only for the 860? Plus the firmware on the website seems to be out of date.

Thanks for taking the time to read this.
Mike.

I just got an 860 last weekend and I haven't done anything to "break it in".
I have my settings like I would normally watch it and I haven't had any problem with IR.
I did watch a foreign move last night with subtitles and 235:1 (black bars bottom and top) and when I turned off the blu ray player I noticed some IR.
I ran the scroll for about 5 minutes and it was gone. I think unless you plan to have it calibrated professionally asap that the break in is overkill.
I also play COD MW2 in game mode with the same settings and no IR.
I'm not sure about the connection error but my 860 is up to 1017. I have no idea about the firmware for the 850. Sorry
post #2102 of 3219
Picking up my 50b850 this morning and I guess I am going to run the slides, but I also have some TV I have to watch (basketball). From what I heard about IR, if you do get some retention, it does go away and its only visible on certain backgrounds. So I assume most of the time if I have IR I actually wouldn't notice it.

Got the TV and running the break in slides. I suppose I will do it at night and stuff but watch TV when I want to. My wife likes the Standard setting because it looks brighter. Anyone have some good settings for Standard? I also have the 360 hooked up via VGA (1920x1080 booya!) and need some good settings for it too. I figure VGA would be a little better than component (no HDMI).
post #2103 of 3219
I have the 50" 860 and want to attach it and a soundbar to an articulating wall mount.

Any suggestions?
post #2104 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Character_Zero View Post

Picking up my 50b850 this morning and I guess I am going to run the slides, but I also have some TV I have to watch (basketball). From what I heard about IR, if you do get some retention, it does go away and its only visible on certain backgrounds. So I assume most of the time if I have IR I actually wouldn't notice it.

Got the TV and running the break in slides. I suppose I will do it at night and stuff but watch TV when I want to. My wife likes the Standard setting because it looks brighter. Anyone have some good settings for Standard? I also have the 360 hooked up via VGA (1920x1080 booya!) and need some good settings for it too. I figure VGA would be a little better than component (no HDMI).

it's tempting to use standard, but it's not accurate. movie has a much more accurate gamma.

image retention is there, but i have never had it last longer than an hour. it is less a factor as time goes on. i would avoid gaming with a hud or other static images for the first 100 hours or so to be on the safe side. normal tv watching (16:9) is a great way to break it in. i ran break in slides at night.

love this tv by the way - best plasma i have seen for bright rooms including the 8g and 9g kuros i have owned.
post #2105 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Character_Zero View Post

Picking up my 50b850 this morning and I guess I am going to run the slides, but I also have some TV I have to watch (basketball). From what I heard about IR, if you do get some retention, it does go away and its only visible on certain backgrounds. So I assume most of the time if I have IR I actually wouldn't notice it.

Got the TV and running the break in slides. I suppose I will do it at night and stuff but watch TV when I want to. My wife likes the Standard setting because it looks brighter. Anyone have some good settings for Standard? I also have the 360 hooked up via VGA (1920x1080 booya!) and need some good settings for it too. I figure VGA would be a little better than component (no HDMI).



I'm on the same boat, I just got mine 58b860 yesterday, it's my first plasma owned a 47" LCD, but the motion resolution was driving my wife crazy. Glad to say "No Buzz". I tried a lot of picture settings but I would like to know what's the best setting for the first 100 hours. I'm watching only HD programing, Yesterday I watched Star Trek on my PS3. My wife likes the Standard setting. Can anyone help me get the picture brighter without using the standard setting?
post #2106 of 3219
I put it back to "movie" before watching a blu-ray and use the Cell brightness and the Brightness and Contrast to bring the brightness up and the wife was happy. And holy crap, that blu-ray looked amazing.
post #2107 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Italia18 View Post

Hi, I've been following these forums for a while now and finally made an account. I hope you guys can take the time to read this and answer my questions.

Got a plasma a few weeks ago. I got the Samsung PN50B850. I've read many posts from this website and I've noticed a lot of users complaining about Image Retention with the 850/860.

I started breaking in this TV about 2 days after I've I got it. Turned the Contrast and Brightness below 50, Cell Light at 5, and mode set at Standard. I've been running this "break-in" dvd from my xbox 360.I've got almost 65hrs with just the DVD and probably 40-50hrs of normal TV watching/movies, while trying to avoid content that has logo's or black bars (almost every channel does).

Is this break-in thing over-hyped? Is it really necessary? I'm really paranoid and do not want to get any IR or worse, Burn-In (yes I know, I shouldn't have bought a Plasma then, but the quality of the picture is what made me got it). I've also been afraid to play games on it, and I love playing video games.(Fallout 3, NFS, Halo 3, COD, NHL). Only games I have that have no static images are Mirror's Edge, Dead Space, & Prince of Persia, but I haven't played any games yet.

Also afraid to watch some of my Blu-ray's, because almost all of my blu-rays have 2.40:1 ratio (black bars on top and bottom) and I don't want to stretch it to fill the screen to avoid IR.

If anyone who has or has ever owned a Plasma please give feedback or suggestions on this break-in procedure, and how long Video Games and movies with black-bars should be played on them? I know that Panasonic suggests at least 100hrs of break-in. Samsung does not. Most users say to break it in for 150-200hrs? Is that overkill?

Another question is about this pixel shift. Should I turn this off while using the break-in DVD? I'm asking this because I notice after about 2 min, there are (lines of) pixels turned off near the left and top side of the screen, and it gets larger after, and covers all sides of the screen. I'm hoping this is the pixel shift and not a faulty TV. Should I turn it off?, because I'm not really aging all of the pixels evenly with these hundreds of blank pixels around the boarder of my screen.

One more question if you guys don't mind, is about the Connection Error (606). My internet connection works fine, because the widgets work, but whenever I try to upgrade the firmware/software, I get this error. Also, my current firmware is 1016. I've heard people saying the latest is 1017, but is that only for the 860? Plus the firmware on the website seems to be out of date.

Thanks for taking the time to read this.
Mike.

Please review my posts on this...here in this thread.
post #2108 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Italia18 View Post

Hi, I've been following these forums for a while now and finally made an account. I hope you guys can take the time to read this and answer my questions.

Got a plasma a few weeks ago. I got the Samsung PN50B850. I've read many posts from this website and I've noticed a lot of users complaining about Image Retention with the 850/860.

I started breaking in this TV about 2 days after I've I got it. Turned the Contrast and Brightness below 50, Cell Light at 5, and mode set at Standard. I've been running this "break-in" dvd from my xbox 360.I've got almost 65hrs with just the DVD and probably 40-50hrs of normal TV watching/movies, while trying to avoid content that has logo's or black bars (almost every channel does).

Is this break-in thing over-hyped? Is it really necessary? I'm really paranoid and do not want to get any IR or worse, Burn-In (yes I know, I shouldn't have bought a Plasma then, but the quality of the picture is what made me got it). I've also been afraid to play games on it, and I love playing video games.(Fallout 3, NFS, Halo 3, COD, NHL). Only games I have that have no static images are Mirror's Edge, Dead Space, & Prince of Persia, but I haven't played any games yet.

Also afraid to watch some of my Blu-ray's, because almost all of my blu-rays have 2.40:1 ratio (black bars on top and bottom) and I don't want to stretch it to fill the screen to avoid IR.

If anyone who has or has ever owned a Plasma please give feedback or suggestions on this break-in procedure, and how long Video Games and movies with black-bars should be played on them? I know that Panasonic suggests at least 100hrs of break-in. Samsung does not. Most users say to break it in for 150-200hrs? Is that overkill?

Another question is about this pixel shift. Should I turn this off while using the break-in DVD? I'm asking this because I notice after about 2 min, there are (lines of) pixels turned off near the left and top side of the screen, and it gets larger after, and covers all sides of the screen. I'm hoping this is the pixel shift and not a faulty TV. Should I turn it off?, because I'm not really aging all of the pixels evenly with these hundreds of blank pixels around the boarder of my screen.

One more question if you guys don't mind, is about the Connection Error (606). My internet connection works fine, because the widgets work, but whenever I try to upgrade the firmware/software, I get this error. Also, my current firmware is 1016. I've heard people saying the latest is 1017, but is that only for the 860? Plus the firmware on the website seems to be out of date.

Thanks for taking the time to read this.
Mike.

I've been gaming on my 860 from the first day I got it, and when I'm not gaming on it my kids are. I never used any break-in slides. I only noticed some minor IR after my kids played Lego Indiana Jones for a couple of hours but that went away after a few minutes of normal tv watching. As long as you don't leave your game paused overnight you should be fine gaming on your set. Also you might want to leave you screen size set to 16x9 and not set to ScreenFit while gaming. Pixel shift is turned off when you have ScreenFit selected.
post #2109 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zackary Bass View Post

In regards to the 850/860 PQ, it will always be someone's opinion. Mine is that the 860 is the best picture PERIOD for a set under 7K. The V10 would not even be my second choice. I was turned off by the mirroring or double reflecting of things like test or credits and some images. Some have stated that you can only see this at extreme angles. 45 to 50 degrees is not extreme to me so they're lying! Be sure to go look for yourself. So my answer in short 860=5/5 V10(65)3.0/53.5/5 if not for the reflecting. EDIT: maybe a 4/5 if not for the reflecting

24p playback.again cannot be matchedalthough I'm coming from an OPPO which to me doesn't get any better. This category is much closer than most because if you have a nice 24p source and a good BD player.it's going to look pretty good on most high end set.not all, but most.
Something more important to me was which set looked the best viewing SD programming..and guess what the 860 is outstanding!!!

The 860 has the PIP feature but remember that this is not the PIP of old. There is only one tuner inside the set so PIP will only work if you have multiple sources hooked up. For example you can PIP a BD movie and an OTA programor a Satellite program and DVD movie, just not two OTA or cable stations at the same time.

Thanks for the reply!!!

what if you had 2 cable boxes? I have fios so I would never use the internal tuner so if the internal tuner has to be used reguardless for PIP I prob wouldnt be able to use it.

Also Ive heard most people that have the 850/860 have more IR issues then any panasonics. Samsung people usually get IR after a short while where panasonics only get it after a long while and it gos away alot quicker.

I was talking to some tv salesmen today and most of them tried to make the buzzing issue into only an "internet problem" lol. But one said he had taken some tvs back for buzzing but hasnt had one in over a month and the factory has assured them that the buzzing issue is fixed.
post #2110 of 3219
Quote:


I was talking to some tv salesmen today and most of them tried to make the buzzing issue into only an "internet problem" lol. But one said he had taken some tvs back for buzzing but hasnt had one in over a month and the factory has assured them that the buzzing issue is fixed.

I just bought the 850 and it has the buzzing. But I don't hear it when watching movies or TV.
post #2111 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Character_Zero View Post

I just bought the 850 and it has the buzzing. But I don't hear it when watching movies or TV.

I just opened the sevice menu and noticed I finally got my 200 hours (bought the TV on Dec 14th) (left town for like 9 days too lol)

Anyways, there is a "slight" buzz. my loved ESPN buzzez, but HGTV does not.

Thats the case with my direct tv non the less.

My bd player doesnt buzz barely at all. I can only hear it faint when im at close range.

I still think its the most amazing picture under $6000.00
post #2112 of 3219
So I have a Pioneer Elite PRO-150FD have been happy with it except it seems dark to me, and does not have the pop that Samsung displays have.

I am debating about getting the 860, do you guys think it's worth the change?

Thanks
post #2113 of 3219
Tried running the DVD last night. Forgot my PS3 was on powersave and turned off after 5 hours. But it didn't stay on the screen saver for long since we had a storm and there was this big crack of thunder. The thunder was followed by a crash in the house. The first thing I thought was that the TV had fallen off the stand. It was really hard to get it on the stand int he first place. But luckily it was just a clock that was on the wall away from the TV. So this morning I am resuming the DVD.

Looking over the screen while the slides run I see one pixel kind of flickering. Can see it close up but not as I back up past 3-4 feet and it disappears at viewing distance. Is that normal? I know with LCD it is and I had more than 1 dead pixels on some LCDs I have had over the years.
post #2114 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pnoyworx View Post

So I have a Pioneer Elite PRO-150FD have been happy with it except it seems dark to me, and does not have the pop that Samsung displays have.

I am debating about getting the 860, do you guys think it's worth the change?

Thanks

I have a year old Samsung (A650) and I am very happy with it. If buying today, I would also look at the Panasonic V10 as well as Samsung.
Either one should give you a great picture when properly set up.
I know this is a Samsung thread, but it's only a suggestion.
post #2115 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tpeezy View Post

Zachary, no, I really did mean 30 seconds. The IR will be visible after 30 seconds of a static image and then me starting a blu ray. The IR is gone after a minute or so but it is still annoying. And djportal, how long have you had the tv? Mine are a lot thinner than yours, you have some serious banding.

The TV was delivered on 12/21/2009. I started noticing the bands about 2 weeks later. They have grown wider and easier to see over the next couple of weeks. It seems as if they have stopped growing though. New TV will be delivered around March 15.
post #2116 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pnoyworx View Post

So I have a Pioneer Elite PRO-150FD have been happy with it except it seems dark to me, and does not have the pop that Samsung displays have.

I am debating about getting the 860, do you guys think it's worth the change?

Thanks

Seriously? The 60" model? I'll trade you my PN58B860 for your Pioneer. Don't get me wrong, the Samsung is outstanding but there are many that claim the Pioneer Elite is still the reference standard. I'd keep it and get it professionally calibrated.
post #2117 of 3219
Weird issue with PC input. I had my 360 going in VGA. When I was done with playing, and shutdown the 360, sometimes it would be a second or 2 before I would switch it back over to Tv or whatever. When I left the TV on the PC input, it would search for signals and then when it didn't find one the TV would kinda of go to "sleep". It wouldn't accept the discrete signal from my Harmony to go to HDMI 1. But the "source" button would work. I figured that the PC input was a little wierd. If sent the discrete signal when the PC input was searching for signals it would work. Fix was to go with component for the 360.

Can anyone else with a Harmony remote or a remote sending the discrete HDMI1 signal see if they leave the PC input on without a signal and the TV will go black, will it accept the discrete signal?

Basically:
Turn the TV to PC input
Leave it on PC input for a minute or two.
Does it keep searching for a signal or does the screen go completely black?
If the screen goes black, will it take a discrete input signal?

It also seems like you actually have to have a cable plugged in. Maybe the TV doesn't like a VGA cable without a signal.
post #2118 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Character_Zero View Post

I put it back to "movie" before watching a blu-ray and use the Cell brightness and the Brightness and Contrast to bring the brightness up and the wife was happy. And holy crap, that blu-ray looked amazing.

this tv will grow on you. i hate to say it, but during the day i prefer it to my kuro
post #2119 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pnoyworx View Post

So I have a Pioneer Elite PRO-150FD have been happy with it except it seems dark to me, and does not have the pop that Samsung displays have.

I am debating about getting the 860, do you guys think it's worth the change?

Thanks

I personally have been blown away by this tv...the colors are incredible. this tv has been a real sleeper. i got luck on the buzzing. my 8g kuro was louder.
post #2120 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Character_Zero View Post

Weird issue with PC input. I had my 360 going in VGA. When I was done with playing, and shutdown the 360, sometimes it would be a second or 2 before I would switch it back over to Tv or whatever. When I left the TV on the PC input, it would search for signals and then when it didn't find one the TV would kinda of go to "sleep". It wouldn't accept the discrete signal from my Harmony to go to HDMI 1. But the "source" button would work. I figured that the PC input was a little wierd. If sent the discrete signal when the PC input was searching for signals it would work. Fix was to go with component for the 360.

Can anyone else with a Harmony remote or a remote sending the discrete HDMI1 signal see if they leave the PC input on without a signal and the TV will go black, will it accept the discrete signal?

Basically:
Turn the TV to PC input
Leave it on PC input for a minute or two.
Does it keep searching for a signal or does the screen go completely black?
If the screen goes black, will it take a discrete input signal?

It also seems like you actually have to have a cable plugged in. Maybe the TV doesn't like a VGA cable without a signal.




Don't know about the VGA issue, but I'd say to use the HDMI with your Xbox. I have mine hooked up to HDMI and the full digital 1080p is amazing. I play MW2, since day one about 1 week now, it's been great.
post #2121 of 3219
Okay... after 11 days with my 50B850... I know for a fact that the buzz will never disappear into the background for me. I was hopeful a few days back that I was getting accustomed to it, but the ambient noise was simply masking the buzz. I will be packing it up this week for a return trip to Best Buy.

It's too bad, I've not come across any set with PQ I like better... and those Panny bezels are just too damn ugly (I know it's all about the PQ... but it's just one of those things).

But heat is a real factor as well. The bedroom with the 860 is 2-3 degrees warmer than the rest of the house... too warm! It was nice during the 2 week cold snap we had though.

I'm heading back to LCD... cya!
post #2122 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrAkD View Post

I'm considering this tv cause of the price and thin profile. I have a few questions hopefully someone could answer sorry but 70 pages is alot lol.

How does it compare to v10 pq?
How does it compare to v10 24p playback?
I believe it has pip correct?

I've had both the 855 (it's actually identical to the 850) and the V10. I prefer the PQ of the 855: It's sharper and clearer. I was so disappointed by the V10 that I returned it (it was inferior to the 855 in almost every respect, not only in terms of PQ). And yes, it has PIP.
post #2123 of 3219
Quote:


Don't know about the VGA issue, but I'd say to use the HDMI with your Xbox. I have mine hooked up to HDMI and the full digital 1080p is amazing. I play MW2, since day one about 1 week now, it's been great.

I would but my 360 doesn't have HDMI. It seems it only the PC input that acts like that and only if there is a cable plugged into it.

Also it seems I have a buzzer. But it seems as though it diminishes the longer I watch a program. I am not sure if its the TV or just me getting used to it. But sometimes its kind of loud. What are my options? Does a service call solve anything? I really don't want to box the TV up and take it back just to roll the dice on a non-buzzer, re-run the break in dvd, and also wait for the new one to get to the store.
post #2124 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Character_Zero View Post

I would but my 360 doesn't have HDMI. It seems it only the PC input that acts like that and only if there is a cable plugged into it.

Also it seems I have a buzzer. But it seems as though it diminishes the longer I watch a program. I am not sure if its the TV or just me getting used to it. But sometimes its kind of loud. What are my options? Does a service call solve anything? I really don't want to box the TV up and take it back just to roll the dice on a non-buzzer, re-run the break in dvd, and also wait for the new one to get to the store.

XBOX360 should put a 1080p signal through the components and the Samsung shoudl accept it. I know my PN58B860 does but I have everything going through my Onkyo reciever which pushes 1080i but not 1080p through component.
post #2125 of 3219
Yeah I have the Xbox going 1080p through my receiver which seems to be working. I just wanted to free up a component input and use VGA but it seems the TV goes into some kind of sleep mode if there is a VGA cable connected but no signal.
post #2126 of 3219
Could anybody tell me the best way to program PN50B860 source selection into a URC-R50 macro? It seems that the TV changes source by just scrolling to the source that you want, without even hitting a remote button. Since I don't have to hit a button to choose a source, I am at a loss as to how to program source selection into a macro. I'm probably missing something pretty simple...
post #2127 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by amouredevie View Post

Could anybody tell me the best way to program PN50B860 source selection into a URC-R50 macro? It seems that the TV changes source by just scrolling to the source that you want, without even hitting a remote button. Since I don't have to hit a button to choose a source, I am at a loss as to how to program source selection into a macro. I'm probably missing something pretty simple...

Take a look at this over at remotecentral.com. The R50 is essentially the same as the MX-450 ( for what you are trying to do anyway). This doesn't seem to be an exact answer but might provide some insight.

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...hread.cgi?2416
post #2128 of 3219
Quote:
Originally Posted by amouredevie View Post

Could anybody tell me the best way to program PN50B860 source selection into a URC-R50 macro? It seems that the TV changes source by just scrolling to the source that you want, without even hitting a remote button. Since I don't have to hit a button to choose a source, I am at a loss as to how to program source selection into a macro. I'm probably missing something pretty simple...


Try remotecentral.com. They may have a solution.
post #2129 of 3219
Thanks. There wasn't anything on their site to help me, but I did send them a message.
post #2130 of 3219
I think if you hit "Source" and then wait a second it will change to the source.
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